Mercury - Mariner :: 2010 - Passenger Side Brake Light Won't Turn Off
Dec 27, 2013
Last week, I noticed that my PS brake light was on, even when the car was off. I did not think anything of it, and figured I could get it fixed whenever I had some spare time.....then my battery died! Even with the batter dead, the light stayed on. I pulled numerous fuses, and none worked to turn it off, so I disconnected my battery (which did the trick). I have not jumped my car yet. I thought it might be the brake switch, but since it is just ONE light, and not both, am not sure that would be the problem. To note: I have a 2010 Mercury Mariner, 37k miles, and had a UHaul hitch installed about 3 years ago. DR brake light goes on when brakes are pressed.
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I recently bought a 2009 Mercury Mariner 4wd Premier from a dealership (I upgraded from a 91 Ford Tempo...)
A few weeks ago I noticed that when I'd start my car the fuel gauge would be wrong (showing 1/4 of a tank when I had 3/4). The last straw happened when the gas light came on although I had more than half a tank. I took the car back to the dealership who verified and repaired the faulty fuel sensor. The mechanic told me it is not a common repair, yet just a couple weeks later I am finding that the problem is happening again.
What are the odds that I got a faulty replacement sensor or could it be a different issue? I will take it back to the dealership once the holiday weekend is over, but I'd like some other opinions. I know replacement parts can fail, but I know it isn't all that common.
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Have a 2005 Mercury Mariner Premier, 108k miles, 3.0L engine. Was driving last week and the ABS light came on. Then slowly the dashboard lights dimmed to black and lost electricity. All this within a couple miles of driving. Limped home and tested the battery - dead. Recharged and tested the next morning - still fully charged. Put another known good battery in and drove about an hour out and on the way home same thing happened.
I suspect the alternator, but on testing, the alternator is pushing 14.3 volts on a good battery. My fear now is the tear down necessary to change the alternator if it is not actually bad. Anything else I should look for / test before I start pulling the alternator out? Any other tests of the alternator that I can do while it's still installed?
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We just bought a 2010 Rx 350 and the brake light on the passenger side is not working. At first, I thought I could just replace a bulb, but it appears that the brake light(s) are led bulbs and are incorporated into the housing. I removed the lamp assembly and found a ceramic resistor that appears to be connected to the led bulbs. I measured the resistance and it was right on. Are these bulbs replaceable?? If not, the car still has about 14000 miles on the warranty. I thought it would be a user serviceable part.
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We purchased a CPO 2011 Mercury Mariner Premium in October 2013. The first time this incident occurred was when we had the car about 2 hours. What happens is after driving for a while at a high-rate (usually about 60mph or higher), I gradually slow down as I get off of the freeway and start heading towards our house. Once I get into the subdivision, as I am coaxing, the car will lurch when it is at about 20mph. This also happens if I am on the toll road and then slow down to pay the toll then somewhere around there or when I stop for my turn, it will lurch. I took the car back to the dealer within the first week and the mechanic and I drove the car for a while and of course, it didn't happen. He said there was no way for him to know what was happening unless it happened when he was in the car. I was actually put off because I asked if we should keep driving or take it back to the shop and he said "well, you know I don't get paid for test drives".
Anyway, they checked to see if there was an update on a module or something? He said there was (again, said he didn't know if it was related to what I was experiencing). It is still happening. We previously had a 2009 Ford Escape and got pretty good gas mileage. That car was totaled (fortunately no one was injured...my newest teen driver lol), and we had hoped to get as good gas mileage with this Mariner but no. Also, in December (2 months after we got the car) the "check engine" light came one. I scheduled it for service for the following Monday (it was Friday) and later that day, the car kept dying. We had to have it towed in. They repaired that problem and we hoped that it would solve this other issue, but it did not.
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I have a 2005 Mercury Mariner, 136K miles, 2.3L 4-cyl engine. I am experiencing a noise that is barely audible at 50mph, but increases at around 60-65mph. It is an intermittent "rrrrrr......rrrrrr.....rrrrrrr" (don't you hate people that describe things like this?) and I can sometimes feel a vibration on the gas pedal and also on the drivers side floorboard. And, maybe related, maybe not, every now and again it is a little "stickier" than it used to be when shifting into park.
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I have a 2008 Mariner that has just started making a fairly loud chirping noise from the from. It is not always there, sometimes when the car starts it doesn't always start for a minute or two.
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I'm the original owner of a 2005 Mariner (3.0L V-6, 114K miles). We live in Central TX, so we are just starting to experience cooler weather (40's - 50's at night, 60's - 70's daytime). At this time of year and through the winter, this Mariner develops an annoying rough idle. It is more like a strong vibration when in Drive or Reverse, not really a miss in the engine. Increasing the idle speed with the accelerator pedal works, and it does get somewhat better as the engine gets to normal operating temp, however if the day is cold (30's or 40's) it doesn't get better.
I've changed the plugs, changed the IAC valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor a couple of times, with no improvement. We almost exclusively use Exxon or Chevron gas, which should have good fuel-injector cleaning additives, so I sort of doubt the injectors are at fault. I've had a local mechanic check to see if any codes exist, but nothing shows up. This has gone on for 2 or 3 years, but it was not like this when the car was newer.
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I've been trying to chase down a creaking noise from what I think is the front passenger side for about a month now -- it happens when I accelerate and the weight of the car (2005 mercury mariner) shifts. It's mostly a creak but almost a knocking/crunching sound that seems to correspond to when I give it gas.
I recently got my sway bar links and tie rod ends replaced, so I could have sworn it was a bushing on the control arm. Spraying silicone grease doesn't do anything, and last night I noticed what I think is the same noise happen when I shift from park to drive.
Could this be a worn motor mount? I'd rather replace that on my own than have to bring it in and get a new control arm installed so I can get a realignment.
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Back in November I traded my sports car in for a more practical 2005 Mariner with 50K miles on it. I had noticed a somewhat delayed start during the test drive (at least compared to what I'm used to) and assumed it was the battery. Car drove great and I loved it otherwise so I made the purchase and went on my way. A couple weeks passed and I noticed the issue seemed to be getting worse and the engine took a couple more turns before firing up. I wasn't surprised as most battery issues surface when the cold weather kicks in. I took it to the dealer and they found a leaky battery and replaced it and again I went on my way. Unfortunately the issue was not resolved with the new battery. I didn't give it much thought thinking it was just the way the vehicle ran until the weather started getting progressively colder and my delayed start became even more prolonged. So back to the service department I go and wait patiently in the lobby with my book, hoping for good news. When they come back to me 2 hrs later they tell me that something is drawing too much power from my battery causing it to drain (alternator is fine) and they need to power everything down for a few hours and investigate the fuses in hopes of finding the culprit to the power drain. Later on I called for a progress check and they're still stumped and would like to keep the vehicle overnight and see if they can figure out the issue after it sits for a night since (as I relayed) the slow starts are primarily in the morning after the car has sat. From what I gathered, the evidence of drain "disappeared" after a while during their little power down session.
Consequently, I have them investigating 2 other issues and I'm wondering if any of them may be related. One- I am having issues depressing the shift button to get the vehicle out of park (also more of a problem in the morning during the first start). Two- on occasion my key sticks in the lock cylinder when I shut off the engine and try to pull the key out. I spent some time online researching all of the above and it seems that there could be some issue with the ignition switch or a bad solenoid somewhere in the circuit... then again, maybe not? The only other bits of info I can offer since owning the vehicle are that I was having some issue with the rear hatch door. I kept getting the "door ajar" light after using the back hatch.. but I'm pretty sure that was due to my own stupidity because the main door release and the top window release are right next to each other and I may have pressed the wrong one- slamming the back hatch hard took care of the light. The other thing is I followed the manual instructions and deactivated the seat belt alarms because I can't stand the seat belt reminder beeping at me when I forget my seatbelt.
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I own a 04 Grand Cherokee and have recently had problems with my passenger side brake light. Now the light itself does work under normal running light conditions, but when I go to press the brake pedal it doesn't engage the bright brake light. Drivers side works fine and so do all my other lights, I replaced the bulb to no avail, and am now currently looking into replacing the bulb socket.
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2004 Prius. When the brakes are applied, the passenger side brake light (LEDs) is dim compared to the driver side. Are the LEDs just dying a slow death? I always thought LEDs either work or don't.
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I have 1999 Ford F-150 xlt and on the passenger side the brake and turn signal don't work but reverse light does. On the driver's side, everything works so I switch bulbs and outlets and it still doesn't work but two of the wires for trailer hook up and cut. I was wondering if that had anything to do with that.
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2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
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My passenger brake light (running) is out, I have the 5th brake light mod on and all 5 light up when i hit the brakes, its just dark when I am not on the brakes... Is it a fuse or the bulb blown, I've already rechecked the wiring and there was a wire loose but i put it back in and still nothing.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban and for some reason I've having this problem the my one brake on the passenger side won't light up when you press the brake but the other side will. And also when I apply the turning signal on the passenger side it blinks really fast and you can see the front signal flashing fast but the back does not flash at all. So for some reason the brake and signal lights don't work at all on the back passenger side. But the running lights do go...
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We had the passenger side brake light not working in our 2002 S60. I moved the little silver tab at the socket w/ a screwdriver and it worked, but then hit the plate and both brake lights went out. Checked fuse, bulbs and swapped relay and shunt w/ out any luck. I hear a click at the relay when we use the brakes-am I missing something? Also, did the same w/ taillights and it blew a fuse, replaced and then they worked.
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So I have the dim brake light problem on the passenger side only. I took the whole assembly out to check it out. I removed the circuit board at the bottom and checked all of the components on it with a multimeter. Everything checked out perfectly with the components on the circuit board.
It's just a bunch of resistors connected in series and a diode. All are ok. I put everything back together and the brake LED's are still dim. Of course nothing changed. All of the LED's are lighting up. They are all just dim. The circuit board is being fed with 12 volts.
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I was driving the other day and the lens on the turnlight assembly apparently fell off. I've ordered a replacement assembly and I'm planning on trying to replace it tonight. How to get the assembly out and how to install the new one.
1998 Passat GLS 1.8T ....
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Passenger side brake light is not working. Bulb is fine. Seems that the "plunger action" in the socket may be lacking. I put some WD in there.....worked for a day or so....now not working. Can I replace this socket or do I need an entire lens assembly?
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My passenger side brake light has developed a fault over the past couple of months. The brake light will work, for example, when I turn the car on both lights will come on, however if I then take my foot off the brake and re-apply it, it will not work. However later when I am driving I will notice (via reflections) that it is working again!
I am aware that the bulbs cannot be replace and that I would need to replace the whole unit (after market versions available for £75 ish). I have attempted to check the cabling and everything appears OK but I am not an expert. I just removed the rear paneling and made sure nothing was loosely connected.
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