Mercury - Mariner :: 2005 - Something Electrical Is Draining Battery Causing Slow Starts?


Jan 5, 2012

Back in November I traded my sports car in for a more practical 2005 Mariner with 50K miles on it. I had noticed a somewhat delayed start during the test drive (at least compared to what I'm used to) and assumed it was the battery. Car drove great and I loved it otherwise so I made the purchase and went on my way. A couple weeks passed and I noticed the issue seemed to be getting worse and the engine took a couple more turns before firing up. I wasn't surprised as most battery issues surface when the cold weather kicks in. I took it to the dealer and they found a leaky battery and replaced it and again I went on my way. Unfortunately the issue was not resolved with the new battery. I didn't give it much thought thinking it was just the way the vehicle ran until the weather started getting progressively colder and my delayed start became even more prolonged. So back to the service department I go and wait patiently in the lobby with my book, hoping for good news. When they come back to me 2 hrs later they tell me that something is drawing too much power from my battery causing it to drain (alternator is fine) and they need to power everything down for a few hours and investigate the fuses in hopes of finding the culprit to the power drain. Later on I called for a progress check and they're still stumped and would like to keep the vehicle overnight and see if they can figure out the issue after it sits for a night since (as I relayed) the slow starts are primarily in the morning after the car has sat. From what I gathered, the evidence of drain "disappeared" after a while during their little power down session.

Consequently, I have them investigating 2 other issues and I'm wondering if any of them may be related. One- I am having issues depressing the shift button to get the vehicle out of park (also more of a problem in the morning during the first start). Two- on occasion my key sticks in the lock cylinder when I shut off the engine and try to pull the key out. I spent some time online researching all of the above and it seems that there could be some issue with the ignition switch or a bad solenoid somewhere in the circuit... then again, maybe not? The only other bits of info I can offer since owning the vehicle are that I was having some issue with the rear hatch door. I kept getting the "door ajar" light after using the back hatch.. but I'm pretty sure that was due to my own stupidity because the main door release and the top window release are right next to each other and I may have pressed the wrong one- slamming the back hatch hard took care of the light. The other thing is I followed the manual instructions and deactivated the seat belt alarms because I can't stand the seat belt reminder beeping at me when I forget my seatbelt.

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Mercury - Sable :: 2005 - Instrument Panel Draining Battery

I have an '05 Mercury Sable with not quite 40,000 original mi. on it....recently I thought I needed a new battery, car was not turning over well. Make a long story short, it didn't start well 2 days later with the new battery. Mechanic said the instrument panel is doing something that is draining the battery.....I will be taking it in this coming Monday, and he will be taking, and sending it to be refurbished by a company he said they do a lot of work with. Said it will take about 10 days till I get car back.

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Mercury - Mariner :: 2005 - Noise That Increases At Around 60 - 65 Mph

I have a 2005 Mercury Mariner, 136K miles, 2.3L 4-cyl engine. I am experiencing a noise that is barely audible at 50mph, but increases at around 60-65mph. It is an intermittent "rrrrrr......rrrrrr.....rrrrrrr" (don't you hate people that describe things like this?) and I can sometimes feel a vibration on the gas pedal and also on the drivers side floorboard. And, maybe related, maybe not, every now and again it is a little "stickier" than it used to be when shifting into park.

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Mercury - Mariner :: 2005 - Strong Vibration When In Drive Or Reverse

I'm the original owner of a 2005 Mariner (3.0L V-6, 114K miles). We live in Central TX, so we are just starting to experience cooler weather (40's - 50's at night, 60's - 70's daytime). At this time of year and through the winter, this Mariner develops an annoying rough idle. It is more like a strong vibration when in Drive or Reverse, not really a miss in the engine. Increasing the idle speed with the accelerator pedal works, and it does get somewhat better as the engine gets to normal operating temp, however if the day is cold (30's or 40's) it doesn't get better.

I've changed the plugs, changed the IAC valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor a couple of times, with no improvement. We almost exclusively use Exxon or Chevron gas, which should have good fuel-injector cleaning additives, so I sort of doubt the injectors are at fault. I've had a local mechanic check to see if any codes exist, but nothing shows up. This has gone on for 2 or 3 years, but it was not like this when the car was newer.

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Mercury - Mariner :: 2005 - Creaking / Crunching Noise When Accelerate

I've been trying to chase down a creaking noise from what I think is the front passenger side for about a month now -- it happens when I accelerate and the weight of the car (2005 mercury mariner) shifts. It's mostly a creak but almost a knocking/crunching sound that seems to correspond to when I give it gas.

I recently got my sway bar links and tie rod ends replaced, so I could have sworn it was a bushing on the control arm. Spraying silicone grease doesn't do anything, and last night I noticed what I think is the same noise happen when I shift from park to drive.

Could this be a worn motor mount? I'd rather replace that on my own than have to bring it in and get a new control arm installed so I can get a realignment.

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Chevrolet - Cavalier :: 2001 - Loss Of Electrical Power Causing Lights To Dim / Fan To Slow

About 2 months ago, I needed to test my engine cooling fan motor. Was using two lead test wires with alligator clips and stupidly connected the battery ends first and then the wind blew the other connection ends together creating a spark. That may or may not have anything to do with what has happened since then. About 3 days after that, I started to notice that my lights were dimming and ac fan motor was slowing when the engine was under load as in 1st or 2nd gear or going uphill.

After about a week, the ALT/BAT light came on and I replaced my alternator. The problem with that was that getting the belt back on the new ALT nearly killed me and I got several pretty bad injuries and ended up having to get it done. The old alternator tested bad so I figured my problem was solved. But ever since then, I am still getting the same problem - a voltage drop or loss of electrical power causing the lights to dim and the fan to slow - except this time is doesn't happen under load - it happens while driving and just after I have come to a stop at a light or stop sign. I have had the battery and alternator tested several times and they always show up as being fine.

I checked all the cables and connections and changed the positive battery cable bolt. I get no codes thrown. I cant just take the alternator out and change it because of what I went through with the last one - not to mention it tests OK so I can't use the warranty as long as that is the case anyway. So I am left with this troubling, annoying problem and don't know what the cause or solution is. I am guessing the list of options has to have the alternator, battery, connections, belt (though I have no sounds or evidence there is a problem with the belt - I suppose if the tensioner was damaged with the belt fiasco that it might cause such a problem). What to do? It is the biggest problem at night because my headlights are affected.

2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2

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Mercury - Transmissions - Mariner :: 2011 - Lurching At About 20 Mph

We purchased a CPO 2011 Mercury Mariner Premium in October 2013. The first time this incident occurred was when we had the car about 2 hours. What happens is after driving for a while at a high-rate (usually about 60mph or higher), I gradually slow down as I get off of the freeway and start heading towards our house. Once I get into the subdivision, as I am coaxing, the car will lurch when it is at about 20mph. This also happens if I am on the toll road and then slow down to pay the toll then somewhere around there or when I stop for my turn, it will lurch. I took the car back to the dealer within the first week and the mechanic and I drove the car for a while and of course, it didn't happen. He said there was no way for him to know what was happening unless it happened when he was in the car. I was actually put off because I asked if we should keep driving or take it back to the shop and he said "well, you know I don't get paid for test drives".

Anyway, they checked to see if there was an update on a module or something? He said there was (again, said he didn't know if it was related to what I was experiencing). It is still happening. We previously had a 2009 Ford Escape and got pretty good gas mileage. That car was totaled (fortunately no one was injured...my newest teen driver lol), and we had hoped to get as good gas mileage with this Mariner but no. Also, in December (2 months after we got the car) the "check engine" light came one. I scheduled it for service for the following Monday (it was Friday) and later that day, the car kept dying. We had to have it towed in. They repaired that problem and we hoped that it would solve this other issue, but it did not.

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Mercury - Mariner :: 2009 - Faulty Gas Light Came On

I recently bought a 2009 Mercury Mariner 4wd Premier from a dealership (I upgraded from a 91 Ford Tempo...)

A few weeks ago I noticed that when I'd start my car the fuel gauge would be wrong (showing 1/4 of a tank when I had 3/4). The last straw happened when the gas light came on although I had more than half a tank. I took the car back to the dealership who verified and repaired the faulty fuel sensor. The mechanic told me it is not a common repair, yet just a couple weeks later I am finding that the problem is happening again.

What are the odds that I got a faulty replacement sensor or could it be a different issue? I will take it back to the dealership once the holiday weekend is over, but I'd like some other opinions. I know replacement parts can fail, but I know it isn't all that common.

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Chevrolet - Lumina :: Battery Draining - After Oil Change Car Won't Starts / Runs Roughly

My 99 Lumina's battery would drain after 36-48 of just sitting (12-24 before replacing the battery.) I had tried somethings did research and had no luck. In January this year I got an oil change at a jiffy lube type place. They removed something by the spark-plug wires right at the bottom edge of the windshield. When I tried to start it the car engine it jerked, shook, and didn't start. They did something in that same spot then it started right up.To my surprise the battery didn't drain any more!! Then 2 weeks later it started running rough when I slowed down, started to die, was very hard to start, then ran very rough, next I had to step on the gas and ride the brake for 4 blocks then it died in my driveway. That all happened over 15 miles wile in traffic. I tried to start it many times with no luck. The battery was fine after 4+ months of sitting.

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Mercury - Mariner :: 2008 - Fairly Loud Chirping Sound

I have a 2008 Mariner that has just started making a fairly loud chirping noise from the from. It is not always there, sometimes when the car starts it doesn't always start for a minute or two.

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1999 F150 - Battery Draining From Full Charge To No Start In 1 To 2 Days

My neighbor's kids truck battery drains from full charge to "no start" in 1-2 days. 1999 Ford F-150 w/ 4.6L engine. He has already.....

1) Replaced the Battery.
2) Replaced the GEM module.
3) Replaced the Turn Signal Relay.
He did all this before I looked at it....

I checked the following....

1) Truck off, doors closed, hood open... Amp meter shows 3.6 amp draw. When 1st hooked up, shows 4.2 amps... after a while drops to 3.6.

2) To isolate the draw, we pulled fuses while checking current draw at battery.

a) Under Dash fuse Panel. (Yes, with door closed) We remove fuse #15 "stop lamp switch, speed control, brake shift interlock, ABS, PCM,GEM, RABS test connector". (Really... couldn't be more stuff?)
b)Under the hood is another fuse box (drivers side). We remove Fuse #103. "Junction Block Battery Feed".

3) Found that if we remove the #15 fuse under the dash with the door opens, all interior lights flash on/off at about 1 second intervals... weird.

4) Again, another weird one... with the fuse #15 removed and door closed, the "ABS" indicator and some other indicators and dash lights are staying partially lit... not fully lit.

5) The only "aftermarket" stuff i can see is a dealer installed trailer brake system. Wiring looks professional and disconnecting it does not remove the amperage drain.

I'm hoping that one of you wizards will give me the "slam dunk"... if this happens, it must be that. Can I be so lucky? And, yes. I have my own '06 F-150 that i absolutely love. 6-cyl., manual trans, stripped down without even power door locks... my kinda technology.

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Mercury - Mariner :: 2010 - Passenger Side Brake Light Won't Turn Off

Last week, I noticed that my PS brake light was on, even when the car was off. I did not think anything of it, and figured I could get it fixed whenever I had some spare time.....then my battery died! Even with the batter dead, the light stayed on. I pulled numerous fuses, and none worked to turn it off, so I disconnected my battery (which did the trick). I have not jumped my car yet. I thought it might be the brake switch, but since it is just ONE light, and not both, am not sure that would be the problem. To note: I have a 2010 Mercury Mariner, 37k miles, and had a UHaul hitch installed about 3 years ago. DR brake light goes on when brakes are pressed.

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Mercury - Mariner :: ABS Light Came On / Dashboard Lights Dimmed To Black And Lost Electricity

Have a 2005 Mercury Mariner Premier, 108k miles, 3.0L engine. Was driving last week and the ABS light came on. Then slowly the dashboard lights dimmed to black and lost electricity. All this within a couple miles of driving. Limped home and tested the battery - dead. Recharged and tested the next morning - still fully charged. Put another known good battery in and drove about an hour out and on the way home same thing happened.

I suspect the alternator, but on testing, the alternator is pushing 14.3 volts on a good battery. My fear now is the tear down necessary to change the alternator if it is not actually bad. Anything else I should look for / test before I start pulling the alternator out? Any other tests of the alternator that I can do while it's still installed?

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Civic - Honda :: 2005 - Battery Is Draining

my wife now drives what was originally my 2005 Honda Civic from '05-'10. In the last 3 or so years since she's been driving it, the Civic has developed a tendency to die on her at inopportune times. A quick jump always fixes the problem but I never, ever had this problem myself when I was driving it and I've had the battery tested at AutoZone twice with both techs telling me the battery was in great shape with cranking amps well above its rating. I've offered to just buy a new battery and eliminate the issue but the "it's fine" report from AZ has me puzzled.

I have noticed that corrosion tends to build up on her positive battery terminal very quickly and I suspect she's getting some drain due to that but I'm stymied as to why it happens. The only thing (and its a stretch) that I can think of is she has a habit that her father taught her of cranking the heat, the defroster AND the A/C in her car when it's cold out. Normally I wouldn't think this would make a difference but I wonder if there is somehow condensation developing in that tiny little Civic engine bay as a result?

I've asked her not to do it and see if the situation improves but old habits die hard. The battery does tend to come up dead (of course) more in the winter but it's not an exclusively cold weather situation. Anyway, after jumping her car in single digits this morning before dawn I am ready to admit defeat and just get a new battery but figured I'd throw it out to the many voices here.

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Sebring - Chrysler :: 2005 - Air Injection Pump Draining Battery

A couple of weeks ago, with the car turned off, keys out of the ignition - about every thirteen seconds you could hear the air injection pump coming on, running for a couple of seconds and then turning off. The next day the car battery was dead (no surprise) so we charged it up and took it to the shop (AAA) . They told us that it was a faulty MAP sensor and didn't give us a price quote to fix it, just an invoice/diagnostic bill. But they did unplug the air injection pump so that the battery wouldn't keep getting drained.

We drove the car home and called them the next day to get an estimate for the repair and they said that they misdiagnosed the problem and that it was actually a MAF sensor that was causing the air injection pump to come on when the car was turned off and that it would cost around 500 dollars for the part and labor. Too steep so we decided to hold off on the repair. Understanding our reluctance to go through with the repair, they recommended that we plug the air injection pump back in and still drive the car but to make sure that we unhook the battery at night/when the car would be sitting for many hours without being started.

Here's where it gets a little confusing (or at least for me). I did take AAA's advice and went ahead and plugged the air injection pump back in and for the last couple of weeks it's been fine. No issues with the battery being drained whatsoever/no air injection pump coming on with the car turned off. But today the air injection pump started doing its thing again.The check engine light was on so I hooked my code reader up and pulled the following codes:

PO128 (thermostat coolant temp below regulating temp)
PO491 (secondary air injection system (Bank 1)
PO2431 (secondary air intake system FLW/Perf B1

Does all this point to a faulty MAF sensor?

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Mercury - Grandmarquis :: 2005 - Battery Won't Stay Charged / Light Control Module?

My battery want stay charged in my Mercury. I want to know if the light control module could cause it to drain....

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2005 2WD - Battery Light Came On

2005 Ranger XL 2.3L 5 speed 2WD 305,000 miles. Alternator has about 100,000 miles on it.

Battery light came on about 0400 and 50 miles into my daily 90 mile drive to work, made it to work. After the truck cooled down for 3 hours and I got time I checked the battery voltage 12.6VDC and started the engine and the system is charging at 14.2VDC with no battery light on (battery light out when cold). Serpentine belt looks good, dry weather.

Other than alternator nearing end of life and being warm is there anything else that may cause battery light to come on.

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Phaeton :: 2005 - Starts Up Fine When Disconnect Starter Battery

I have been suffering from LH battery drain for some time now. sometimes its random I will park it for 10 min. come back and the battery is drained (I have to use the key to gain entry). sometimes it only happens over night, where other times the battery doesn't go dead overnight. so last weekend I decided to change the brakes...That was easy but then I forgot to hook up my battery maintainer...so you know what happened! now the problem is I charged the battery and hooked it back up. No start! everything works fine the battery is fully charged and only 1 year old.

But this is the weird part if I disconnect the starter battery the car starts up fine. I hook both batteries back up and try the parallel start way (turn to start then full counter clockwise then full clockwise several times no luck). the LH battery is drained now after a few start and stops (no driving) and the starter battery is fully charged. but with both batteries hooked up it wont even attempt to start and now I also have no power to the power trunk!!! this car is starting to suck balls.

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2005 - Battery Symbol On Dash Flashed And No More Than A Second Later Car Stopped

Really need diagnosing an on going electrical problem I'm having. It's on a 05 X 4x4 V10 with almost 113k miles.

Background : Last summer took a road trip and alternator went out and was replaced. On that trip started seeing problems with my cruise control, when the headlights(HID's) turn on they dim the dash, and hi's cause the speedometer and other gauges to quickly flux and then go back to proper readings.

Everything was "alright" in the sense that the only problems were those stated above. Well tuesday night on my way home from school, I was driving on the surface streets, stopped at a light.....then all of a sudden the battery symbol on the dash flashed and no more than a second later, the car stopped. All dash lights/radio (double din) still on and headlights still on, but couldn't start the X at all.

Was able to wait a bit and once my parents got there it did start and I was able to pull off to the side and diagnose it a little better, dad looked at it and at the moment couldn't really tell what would be wrong. I had him drive it home for me though. It's been starting fine again but I have NO CLUE as to what to look for and really would like to find out what's happening.

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2001 F350 Won't Crank - Batteries Draining?

My 2001 F350 Super Duty diesel keeps draining my batteries for some reason, wouldn't crank on Friday. Put my battery charger on for a few hours and it started fine. The rest of the day fired up fine, on Saturday it happened again. Had both batteries charged and load tested today, they are good. Short???

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F350 - Truck Seemed Slow To Turn Over / Battery Dead

I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.

I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.

I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.

In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.

Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."

I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.

So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?

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