I have a 2008 Mariner that has just started making a fairly loud chirping noise from the from. It is not always there, sometimes when the car starts it doesn't always start for a minute or two.
View 3 Replies2004 Jetta 1.8t manual, sport package with about 85,000 miles on it and I've owned it since new.
About a year ago I had a shop replace the strut bearings while it was in for some other things. After I picked it up my alignment was jacked and there was a binding sound coming from the front end. The shop said the sound was just the springs settling in. It did go away after a while. Still don't understand why the alignment was off but I aligned it myself and all was good for a while.
About two weeks ago I myself replaced:
Lower control arms (stock VW) and ball joints (FEQ or Lemforder, not sure which) with R32 rear bushings and poly front (I HATE poly bushings but that's for another time)
Tie rod ends (FEQ)
Front brakes & rotors (stock VW)
I also threw in a oem Audi lower stress brace while I was under there but I don't think that has anything to do with my problem. Then I took it to a shop to have an alignment done on it. Everything is now within spec except that the caster is 6.6 degrees on the left front and 6.2 degrees on the right front. How does this happen?
So now my problem: There is a fairly loud binding sound coming from the front of the car randomly. It sounds like the coil spring is binding but maybe it is something else? it mostly does it when I reverse for a bit and then put it in first and drive forward or forward then reverse so something is shifting front to back. Steering doesn't really seem to have any noticeable effect.
We purchased a CPO 2011 Mercury Mariner Premium in October 2013. The first time this incident occurred was when we had the car about 2 hours. What happens is after driving for a while at a high-rate (usually about 60mph or higher), I gradually slow down as I get off of the freeway and start heading towards our house. Once I get into the subdivision, as I am coaxing, the car will lurch when it is at about 20mph. This also happens if I am on the toll road and then slow down to pay the toll then somewhere around there or when I stop for my turn, it will lurch. I took the car back to the dealer within the first week and the mechanic and I drove the car for a while and of course, it didn't happen. He said there was no way for him to know what was happening unless it happened when he was in the car. I was actually put off because I asked if we should keep driving or take it back to the shop and he said "well, you know I don't get paid for test drives".
Anyway, they checked to see if there was an update on a module or something? He said there was (again, said he didn't know if it was related to what I was experiencing). It is still happening. We previously had a 2009 Ford Escape and got pretty good gas mileage. That car was totaled (fortunately no one was injured...my newest teen driver lol), and we had hoped to get as good gas mileage with this Mariner but no. Also, in December (2 months after we got the car) the "check engine" light came one. I scheduled it for service for the following Monday (it was Friday) and later that day, the car kept dying. We had to have it towed in. They repaired that problem and we hoped that it would solve this other issue, but it did not.
I have a 2005 Mercury Mariner, 136K miles, 2.3L 4-cyl engine. I am experiencing a noise that is barely audible at 50mph, but increases at around 60-65mph. It is an intermittent "rrrrrr......rrrrrr.....rrrrrrr" (don't you hate people that describe things like this?) and I can sometimes feel a vibration on the gas pedal and also on the drivers side floorboard. And, maybe related, maybe not, every now and again it is a little "stickier" than it used to be when shifting into park.
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 2009 Mercury Mariner 4wd Premier from a dealership (I upgraded from a 91 Ford Tempo...)
A few weeks ago I noticed that when I'd start my car the fuel gauge would be wrong (showing 1/4 of a tank when I had 3/4). The last straw happened when the gas light came on although I had more than half a tank. I took the car back to the dealership who verified and repaired the faulty fuel sensor. The mechanic told me it is not a common repair, yet just a couple weeks later I am finding that the problem is happening again.
What are the odds that I got a faulty replacement sensor or could it be a different issue? I will take it back to the dealership once the holiday weekend is over, but I'd like some other opinions. I know replacement parts can fail, but I know it isn't all that common.
I'm the original owner of a 2005 Mariner (3.0L V-6, 114K miles). We live in Central TX, so we are just starting to experience cooler weather (40's - 50's at night, 60's - 70's daytime). At this time of year and through the winter, this Mariner develops an annoying rough idle. It is more like a strong vibration when in Drive or Reverse, not really a miss in the engine. Increasing the idle speed with the accelerator pedal works, and it does get somewhat better as the engine gets to normal operating temp, however if the day is cold (30's or 40's) it doesn't get better.
I've changed the plugs, changed the IAC valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor a couple of times, with no improvement. We almost exclusively use Exxon or Chevron gas, which should have good fuel-injector cleaning additives, so I sort of doubt the injectors are at fault. I've had a local mechanic check to see if any codes exist, but nothing shows up. This has gone on for 2 or 3 years, but it was not like this when the car was newer.
I've been trying to chase down a creaking noise from what I think is the front passenger side for about a month now -- it happens when I accelerate and the weight of the car (2005 mercury mariner) shifts. It's mostly a creak but almost a knocking/crunching sound that seems to correspond to when I give it gas.
I recently got my sway bar links and tie rod ends replaced, so I could have sworn it was a bushing on the control arm. Spraying silicone grease doesn't do anything, and last night I noticed what I think is the same noise happen when I shift from park to drive.
Could this be a worn motor mount? I'd rather replace that on my own than have to bring it in and get a new control arm installed so I can get a realignment.
Last week, I noticed that my PS brake light was on, even when the car was off. I did not think anything of it, and figured I could get it fixed whenever I had some spare time.....then my battery died! Even with the batter dead, the light stayed on. I pulled numerous fuses, and none worked to turn it off, so I disconnected my battery (which did the trick). I have not jumped my car yet. I thought it might be the brake switch, but since it is just ONE light, and not both, am not sure that would be the problem. To note: I have a 2010 Mercury Mariner, 37k miles, and had a UHaul hitch installed about 3 years ago. DR brake light goes on when brakes are pressed.
View 2 RepliesSo my '01 E350 has been fine but tonight when I went to start it I didn't get a WTS light and the SES light was on and there was a weird number on my PHP Hydra that looked like r5 ? This happened a few times back to back so I tried starting it and it just cranked and cranked. Wtf? So I started pushing the button on the chip and all of the sudden I got the WTS light and the hydra flashed, now the chip was on tune 10 instead of 5 where it was when I parked it. I should also note that during these episodes there was a fairly loud clicking/clunking sound coming from the drivers front under the hood when I toggle the key on.. Sounds like maybe a relay? Louder than I recall ever hearing.
View 5 RepliesBack in November I traded my sports car in for a more practical 2005 Mariner with 50K miles on it. I had noticed a somewhat delayed start during the test drive (at least compared to what I'm used to) and assumed it was the battery. Car drove great and I loved it otherwise so I made the purchase and went on my way. A couple weeks passed and I noticed the issue seemed to be getting worse and the engine took a couple more turns before firing up. I wasn't surprised as most battery issues surface when the cold weather kicks in. I took it to the dealer and they found a leaky battery and replaced it and again I went on my way. Unfortunately the issue was not resolved with the new battery. I didn't give it much thought thinking it was just the way the vehicle ran until the weather started getting progressively colder and my delayed start became even more prolonged. So back to the service department I go and wait patiently in the lobby with my book, hoping for good news. When they come back to me 2 hrs later they tell me that something is drawing too much power from my battery causing it to drain (alternator is fine) and they need to power everything down for a few hours and investigate the fuses in hopes of finding the culprit to the power drain. Later on I called for a progress check and they're still stumped and would like to keep the vehicle overnight and see if they can figure out the issue after it sits for a night since (as I relayed) the slow starts are primarily in the morning after the car has sat. From what I gathered, the evidence of drain "disappeared" after a while during their little power down session.
Consequently, I have them investigating 2 other issues and I'm wondering if any of them may be related. One- I am having issues depressing the shift button to get the vehicle out of park (also more of a problem in the morning during the first start). Two- on occasion my key sticks in the lock cylinder when I shut off the engine and try to pull the key out. I spent some time online researching all of the above and it seems that there could be some issue with the ignition switch or a bad solenoid somewhere in the circuit... then again, maybe not? The only other bits of info I can offer since owning the vehicle are that I was having some issue with the rear hatch door. I kept getting the "door ajar" light after using the back hatch.. but I'm pretty sure that was due to my own stupidity because the main door release and the top window release are right next to each other and I may have pressed the wrong one- slamming the back hatch hard took care of the light. The other thing is I followed the manual instructions and deactivated the seat belt alarms because I can't stand the seat belt reminder beeping at me when I forget my seatbelt.
Have a 2005 Mercury Mariner Premier, 108k miles, 3.0L engine. Was driving last week and the ABS light came on. Then slowly the dashboard lights dimmed to black and lost electricity. All this within a couple miles of driving. Limped home and tested the battery - dead. Recharged and tested the next morning - still fully charged. Put another known good battery in and drove about an hour out and on the way home same thing happened.
I suspect the alternator, but on testing, the alternator is pushing 14.3 volts on a good battery. My fear now is the tear down necessary to change the alternator if it is not actually bad. Anything else I should look for / test before I start pulling the alternator out? Any other tests of the alternator that I can do while it's still installed?
I have a 2008 Prius with 111,000 miles on it and lately, I hear a loud chirping, whining sound that is louder under acceleration and seems to vary only according to acceleration or deceleration. Acceleration makes a louder sound. The noise does not occur when vehicle is cold and first driven. It's only after it's driven for awhile and things are warmed up but then again, it doesn't always do it even though it's warmed up. Not sure I could reproduce the sound if I brought it to a dealer for service. When the noise does start up, it's very apparent and loud and then, after awhile, it goes away temporarily only to start up again.
View 5 RepliesWe discovered that our 99 mercury Mountaineer had bad rotors. last night I hooked up a trailer and was going to work with a friend move a couch when I heard a loud grinding sound. I turned around and determined it was coming from the wheel. I purchased a new set of pads and started to change the pads. In the process I found a broken sway bar connector. I changed this as well. It still felt bad and there was a sound when I braked.
I took it to pep boys for a free brake inspection. They pointed out that the rotors needed to be replaced. I did not let them do it because I can not afford that right now. The car is a secondary not a daily driver. My wife says we shouldn't drive it at all. I say we can still drive it and expect I will have to replace the brake pads sooner than normal and replace the rotors when we can, later. My wife insists we will do more damage if we drive it as it is. I say what's the difference we need to replace the rotors anyway.
2008 lexus es350 -- chirping noise from serpentine belt area. Chirping starts after a bit of driving. Got belt replaced, mechanic says it is water pump (as he says he saw marking and could be a prior leak), but I don't want to do this trial and error.
I got belt replaced by the mechanic who said wold fix the problem but did not. Should I replace water pump as it is expense on es350 and only to have chirping noise not fixed as it could be something else like alignment or idler pulley etc.
I have a 2003 Pontiac Gran Am GT 3.4 and i just noticed yesterday when i start my car now it sounds like i have one lifter that is fairly loud, it goes away about 10 minutes after its running. It did it for the first time when we were at the inlaws yesterday, after a few hours of sitting i went out to warm the car up and heard it. Then in the evening after sitting for a few hours i went out to warm it up and did it again. is it possible to be dirty and need something ran though the engine like seafoam?
View 3 RepliesMy wife's 2012 Camry XLE has developed a brake squeal after a car has been parked for a day at her work or in the driveway or street overnight. The brakes squeal in the beginning when a car is maneuvered out of a parking spot or driveway (backing out) or pulling forward with foot on the brake pedal. After that, during normal city and freeway driving and using the brakes, the squeal does not appear and brakes work fine.
I thought it might be rust but that would be gone when brakes are used. What could it possibly be?
Just got a weird chemical smell on my way back from lunch and the a/c stopped working. Pulled up to the garage and there was a smell of burning under the hood, plus a fairly loud hum, and also these weird noises that sounded like electrical discharges from underneath.
View 21 RepliesThe Truck: 2008 F350 Super Duty, Lariat Crew Cab 6.4 Diesel, Off Road package with just under 90K.
The Noise: It sounds like a cross between Morse code ticking (No Morse code message. I thought of that) and the sound a styrofoam cup makes when it rubs against another cup. The noise is fairly loud. Noticeable at standard conversation speaking levels. Doesn't just go away once it starts.
The Apparent Location Of The Noise: Sounds like it's coming from just right of my center fold down cup holders between the driver and passenger sides of the dash.
Process Of Elimination: No set rule for when it starts to happen but it doesn't happen all the time. SEEMS like it happens after a longer trip.
Air conditioning on or off doesn't make it stop. Fan on or off doesn't change anything. Restarting truck at a stop light doesn't change anything.
Varying truck speed doesn't make a difference. Banging on the dash near the sound doesn't make a difference.
2001 Audi A6 2.7T 95k miles....car is making a very loud squeaking/chirping noise when going over bumps...it was making it at low speeds, now it's making it at both low and high speeds. Would control arms make that much noise? I know that is a common problem with these cars. If the squeak is coming from the control arms, can I just grease them?
View 1 RepliesHave mechanical issues with my Lexus, I own an 07- es350. Everytime i put the Lexus in reverse/drive sounds like i have a huge bird under my hood chirping very loud. I replaced the serpentine belt but same issues. The Lexus is quiet when in park, but as soon as i put it in gear it starts screeching.. 2007 Lexus es350...
View 1 RepliesJust purchased a used 2008 HH - about 85000 miles. Seems to work perfectly except there is a very loud hum that sounds that it is coming from the rear. Starts to be noticeable at 30 MPH and gets louder up to about 55, and then isn't as noticeable, perhaps due to normal road noise.
View 2 Replies