Mercury - Mariner :: ABS Light Came On / Dashboard Lights Dimmed To Black And Lost Electricity
Oct 5, 2015
Have a 2005 Mercury Mariner Premier, 108k miles, 3.0L engine. Was driving last week and the ABS light came on. Then slowly the dashboard lights dimmed to black and lost electricity. All this within a couple miles of driving. Limped home and tested the battery - dead. Recharged and tested the next morning - still fully charged. Put another known good battery in and drove about an hour out and on the way home same thing happened.
I suspect the alternator, but on testing, the alternator is pushing 14.3 volts on a good battery. My fear now is the tear down necessary to change the alternator if it is not actually bad. Anything else I should look for / test before I start pulling the alternator out? Any other tests of the alternator that I can do while it's still installed?
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I recently bought a 2009 Mercury Mariner 4wd Premier from a dealership (I upgraded from a 91 Ford Tempo...)
A few weeks ago I noticed that when I'd start my car the fuel gauge would be wrong (showing 1/4 of a tank when I had 3/4). The last straw happened when the gas light came on although I had more than half a tank. I took the car back to the dealership who verified and repaired the faulty fuel sensor. The mechanic told me it is not a common repair, yet just a couple weeks later I am finding that the problem is happening again.
What are the odds that I got a faulty replacement sensor or could it be a different issue? I will take it back to the dealership once the holiday weekend is over, but I'd like some other opinions. I know replacement parts can fail, but I know it isn't all that common.
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Last week, I noticed that my PS brake light was on, even when the car was off. I did not think anything of it, and figured I could get it fixed whenever I had some spare time.....then my battery died! Even with the batter dead, the light stayed on. I pulled numerous fuses, and none worked to turn it off, so I disconnected my battery (which did the trick). I have not jumped my car yet. I thought it might be the brake switch, but since it is just ONE light, and not both, am not sure that would be the problem. To note: I have a 2010 Mercury Mariner, 37k miles, and had a UHaul hitch installed about 3 years ago. DR brake light goes on when brakes are pressed.
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A week ago I noticed that the Truck ( 2003 Saturn Vue AWD) doesn't go up hill easily anymore, then one night when I was driving the horn started going off and on for sometimes. Also the radio turned off. This morning I have the heater on and light on I drove for about 20 mns; I stopped at the ATM machine, turned the engine off. When I restarted the car the battery light came on and the dashboard light was dimmed. I was about 5 mns from home so I made home.
I don't want to get stock on I95 during rush hour.
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We purchased a CPO 2011 Mercury Mariner Premium in October 2013. The first time this incident occurred was when we had the car about 2 hours. What happens is after driving for a while at a high-rate (usually about 60mph or higher), I gradually slow down as I get off of the freeway and start heading towards our house. Once I get into the subdivision, as I am coaxing, the car will lurch when it is at about 20mph. This also happens if I am on the toll road and then slow down to pay the toll then somewhere around there or when I stop for my turn, it will lurch. I took the car back to the dealer within the first week and the mechanic and I drove the car for a while and of course, it didn't happen. He said there was no way for him to know what was happening unless it happened when he was in the car. I was actually put off because I asked if we should keep driving or take it back to the shop and he said "well, you know I don't get paid for test drives".
Anyway, they checked to see if there was an update on a module or something? He said there was (again, said he didn't know if it was related to what I was experiencing). It is still happening. We previously had a 2009 Ford Escape and got pretty good gas mileage. That car was totaled (fortunately no one was injured...my newest teen driver lol), and we had hoped to get as good gas mileage with this Mariner but no. Also, in December (2 months after we got the car) the "check engine" light came one. I scheduled it for service for the following Monday (it was Friday) and later that day, the car kept dying. We had to have it towed in. They repaired that problem and we hoped that it would solve this other issue, but it did not.
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I have a 2005 Mercury Mariner, 136K miles, 2.3L 4-cyl engine. I am experiencing a noise that is barely audible at 50mph, but increases at around 60-65mph. It is an intermittent "rrrrrr......rrrrrr.....rrrrrrr" (don't you hate people that describe things like this?) and I can sometimes feel a vibration on the gas pedal and also on the drivers side floorboard. And, maybe related, maybe not, every now and again it is a little "stickier" than it used to be when shifting into park.
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I have a 2008 Mariner that has just started making a fairly loud chirping noise from the from. It is not always there, sometimes when the car starts it doesn't always start for a minute or two.
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I'm the original owner of a 2005 Mariner (3.0L V-6, 114K miles). We live in Central TX, so we are just starting to experience cooler weather (40's - 50's at night, 60's - 70's daytime). At this time of year and through the winter, this Mariner develops an annoying rough idle. It is more like a strong vibration when in Drive or Reverse, not really a miss in the engine. Increasing the idle speed with the accelerator pedal works, and it does get somewhat better as the engine gets to normal operating temp, however if the day is cold (30's or 40's) it doesn't get better.
I've changed the plugs, changed the IAC valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor a couple of times, with no improvement. We almost exclusively use Exxon or Chevron gas, which should have good fuel-injector cleaning additives, so I sort of doubt the injectors are at fault. I've had a local mechanic check to see if any codes exist, but nothing shows up. This has gone on for 2 or 3 years, but it was not like this when the car was newer.
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I've been trying to chase down a creaking noise from what I think is the front passenger side for about a month now -- it happens when I accelerate and the weight of the car (2005 mercury mariner) shifts. It's mostly a creak but almost a knocking/crunching sound that seems to correspond to when I give it gas.
I recently got my sway bar links and tie rod ends replaced, so I could have sworn it was a bushing on the control arm. Spraying silicone grease doesn't do anything, and last night I noticed what I think is the same noise happen when I shift from park to drive.
Could this be a worn motor mount? I'd rather replace that on my own than have to bring it in and get a new control arm installed so I can get a realignment.
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Back in November I traded my sports car in for a more practical 2005 Mariner with 50K miles on it. I had noticed a somewhat delayed start during the test drive (at least compared to what I'm used to) and assumed it was the battery. Car drove great and I loved it otherwise so I made the purchase and went on my way. A couple weeks passed and I noticed the issue seemed to be getting worse and the engine took a couple more turns before firing up. I wasn't surprised as most battery issues surface when the cold weather kicks in. I took it to the dealer and they found a leaky battery and replaced it and again I went on my way. Unfortunately the issue was not resolved with the new battery. I didn't give it much thought thinking it was just the way the vehicle ran until the weather started getting progressively colder and my delayed start became even more prolonged. So back to the service department I go and wait patiently in the lobby with my book, hoping for good news. When they come back to me 2 hrs later they tell me that something is drawing too much power from my battery causing it to drain (alternator is fine) and they need to power everything down for a few hours and investigate the fuses in hopes of finding the culprit to the power drain. Later on I called for a progress check and they're still stumped and would like to keep the vehicle overnight and see if they can figure out the issue after it sits for a night since (as I relayed) the slow starts are primarily in the morning after the car has sat. From what I gathered, the evidence of drain "disappeared" after a while during their little power down session.
Consequently, I have them investigating 2 other issues and I'm wondering if any of them may be related. One- I am having issues depressing the shift button to get the vehicle out of park (also more of a problem in the morning during the first start). Two- on occasion my key sticks in the lock cylinder when I shut off the engine and try to pull the key out. I spent some time online researching all of the above and it seems that there could be some issue with the ignition switch or a bad solenoid somewhere in the circuit... then again, maybe not? The only other bits of info I can offer since owning the vehicle are that I was having some issue with the rear hatch door. I kept getting the "door ajar" light after using the back hatch.. but I'm pretty sure that was due to my own stupidity because the main door release and the top window release are right next to each other and I may have pressed the wrong one- slamming the back hatch hard took care of the light. The other thing is I followed the manual instructions and deactivated the seat belt alarms because I can't stand the seat belt reminder beeping at me when I forget my seatbelt.
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I have had this since the day I bought my car. When the tempurature outside is hot, the screen on my R dash is dimmed, almost like a cirlcle around, and every some often (has only happened twoce) I turn the car on and the screen doesn't even come on, it's just blank. Just wondering. I think I jut have to have it replace and all, but it could be something....
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I had oem LED taillights installed to my car. Dealer coded the car to avoid error lights on dash. The problem is now the city lights under xenons look dimmed. Not as bright as before. I asked him why did it happen and he said that it's normal as it needs to balance the current flow to supply enough power to the LED taillights. I'm not satisfied with this answer though.
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95 1.9L 5 speed. 142K Runs like a champ but over the last few colder mornings, low 40's high 30's, the starter is slow to get turning. This morning it was really slow, as I held the switch to the crank position for a good 10-15 seconds before it started. To the point that the dash lights dimmed, like a larger load was on the battery. Once it starts its fine. Later in the day it starts just like it should. Just wondering if I may have a starter about to go south on me.
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Had a cracked windshield replaced last spring. This winter have a bad leak during rainstorms. Definitely not coolant from heater core. The insulation on the firewall, under the carpeting, gets soaked. Took it back to the glass replacement company. They sprayed water all around. Since no water appears on the top of the dash, they said it's plugged up drains at the air intakes, and bad insulation on the doors. I've cleaned all the leaves/compost away from air intake (removed wipers and cowling to do this), found one hole inside the door frame that was missing a rubber plug so fixed that. Latest rainstorm soaked the insides again. Question is where a leak like this might be coming from, and what parts do I start replacing to find out? Have glass guys redo the windshield? Get new rubber weatherstrips for the door? The car is a 1996, 110k miles, no visible rusted out parts. Never leaked at all.
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I have a problem with my dash on a 13 ES. There was a shiny spot in the middle of the dash, so I took some Dawn dish washing liquid and a micro fiber towel and gently tried to remove the shiny spot. Well, after I wiped it with clean water, it dried as a whitish spot now, as if some of the dye came off! Any remedy for this mistake I did?
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while driving outside temperature indicator went down to 25 (its about 70 outside) 5 min after my dashboard went blank.? Car is running fine, radio works.. (its 06, 2.0T)
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I have a 2001 Mercury Sable with 114k miles. Just bought it and it ran fine for the most part until one day while coming home from work. It was still running but lost a lot of power and wouldn't go fast at all. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that this car has 3 converters on the exhaust system. First of all, I think having 3 is overkill and secondly, I am wondering why these things are so expensive. The one up front that mounts to my manifold is $350 just for the part. The one in the back can be bypassed (legally) but why did they make this system so complex and what are my options at this point? If I found a Sable that was being parted out, could I use the converters from that? Would it have to be the same year?
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My girlfriends son and friend were driving my girlfriends 05 mountaineer when all of a sudden they lost power to windows, gas gauge, radio and map lights. After doing some research, fuse # 17 is blown and keeps blowing when trying to change. I believe it has to do with Battery Saver Relay. All other fuses are fine. Multiple websites says to start disconnection everything running on that fuse.
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Today I had to boost my car three times, once boosted, I was loosing power, my lights dimmed, and my rev-ometer had stopped working.
My father said it would be a connector cable, the battery was very corroded. I just had my cat-converter replaced wednesday. today is the first time i've had this issue, i've had the car for just over a month now.
I'm really hoping its not my alternator. Because that would suck.
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Description of Problem: 1999 mercury cougar 2.5L V6 automatic trans: I was driving down the road and suddenly lost power. The engine was still running but sounded a little rough so i turned it off. then it wouldn't start. After having it parked for a couple months i started looking ant it and notice that the starter is spinning the flexplate but the harmonic balance isn't turning. It does turn by hand with a socket. After talking to a mechanic i was told a used motor would run. He said i broke the crank or timing chain? I thought if it was the timing chain the harmonic balancer would still turn, he didn't agree. and i thought it was unlikely that the crank would just break driving down the road. What it could be? or how i can narrow it down. If the flexplate or bolts broke off would that cause my problem?
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I have just replaced the EGR cooler, Oil Cooler, professional turbo reconditioning, both dummy plug's and stand-pipe's, blue spring, fuel filters, oil changed, cleaned the EGR valve and intake manifold. I am in the process of doing a coolant flush when my issue occurred. I was on the road for about 10 minutes when I lost power and started blowing black smoke. I have normal power till about 45 mph then nothing. I can baby the truck up to 55-60 and then nothing and the whole time blowing black smoke.
I stomp on the pedal with no power. I hear the whine of the turbo. The truck idles and sounds fine. My SCT showed my oil and coolant temps within 15 degrees. I opened the hood and saw soot all over the top of the engine from the compressor to the EGR valve and all in the valley from valve cover to valve cover; but more so on the driver side to FICM. I obviously didn't connect something properly. I am just about to remove the intake manifold and reinstall, but before I do just wanted some input.
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