What might be causing this transmission fault code?...It is the only one I get and makes it unable to see what gear I'm in when using the tiptronic mode. I can clear the code while I'm driving and it will be ok until I turn the car off then again it comes back up. Car is a 2002 Passat GLX 4 motion
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T 6spd and it has the electronic rear parking brake with auto-hold. Recently needed rear brake pads, but hadnt had the 3 updates for the system, so i could not retract the e-brake through the computer. Got the update done, got the car back with two codes that i cannot get cleared:
53 - Parking Brake
02433: Supply voltage for right parking brake motor (sporadic) - V283
01087: Basic setting not carried out (sporadic)
Every time the codes are cleared, they come back immediately, therefore the scanner will not allow me to operate the system and do the brake job. I am using the Launch x-431 scanner with a vag-com emulator, so there should be no equipment problems if there is anything i can do. Is there an adaptation or relearn that needs to be carried out for the caliper?
I am wondering if there is any way when I turn my car off that the cig/12v? outlet will still work? I have a 19 month old and we have a portable dvd player that he watches in the car and it is plugged in, when we stop for something and one of us run in a store for something we like to keep him entertained, but if I turn the car off it kills the power. How to keep it on, vag-com?
View 4 RepliesThe DRLs in my 13 are 12v or a lesser power supply? Planning out my retro fit and wanting to do something different DRL wise but need a 12v supply, I know the headlights themselves are turned down some and can be adjust via VagCom.
View 4 RepliesI had this problem for a while. My radio is always on when I stop the engine in my 2008 Passat. But lately, the next day when I started the car the radio was sometimes off.
Well, apparently the random turn off was an indicator that my battery was slowly getting bad and not holding a full charge. Yesterday my engine light came on and when I took the car to the service department they found out that the error code was triggered by low voltage.
At the end, they changed the battery. This is the first time I am changing the battery on this car since I got it in 2008. So 5 years on single battery is pretty good I assume.
I replaced injector couple weeks ago. I hooked up to livelink thru sct because it was throwing a low voltage for ficm code. It is staying at 48 volts tho. I don't see any voltage from my glow plug relay, and I have a low voltage for my egr valve. Is it just bad luck that everything broke at once or is there a fuse or a connector that I forgot to plug in.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2006 F-350 4x4 CC LB. I recently had my check engine light come on coincidentally on my way to the auto parts store. Asked them to plug in the scanner and read the code. It had around 20! This truck has 40000 miles on it. All of the codes were dealing with injector voltage being low. All eight cylinders. So I'm thinking ficm is going out. I replaced the batteries shortly after this. I driven it a time or two after this and it started cutting in an out going down the road. Seemed down a few cylinders for a few seconds and pouring black smoke from the tailpipe of a stick truck. Made it home after it did this there times. Stated it up to move it a few days ago. Some white smoke that clears quickly and ran rough for a few, pulled it in gear surged forward and died. I cleaned the EGR valve and re o ringed it. Tested the drivers side pin on the FICM and have 47-48 volts with key on and cranking.
View 4 RepliesBit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
On a trip I managed to pop both the fuse in the rear of my 07 B6 Variant and also the one in the rear of the center console. Checking the manual indicates a 20A fuse in both position 33 and 35 in the right hand fuse panel. Following the numbering scheme in the manual there were no fuses of that value there.
What are the correct position numbers. Also following the other threads my power outlets were switched with the ignition.
Volvo850 turbo year94 I'm a lot like I do most of the repairs. But now I have a problem with the ABS code 444 No power supply to valves in hydraulic unit.
View 5 RepliesWiring up my Clearance lights for top of the cab, and for my running boards.
According to my diagrams there is a brown wire running along the passenger kick panel and down the gutter to the rear of the X.
I have a 2004 Prius. I purchased a used brake control power supply and installed it. Do I have to reflash it?
I tried to relearn the Linear valve offset. I've tried to INITIALIZATION OF LINEAR SOLENOID VALVE AND CALIBRATION with the factory scan tool. I have both. The older one seems to work better when working on Gen II Prius. I also tried to reset the YAW rate sensor.
I was driving (about 800 km), when suddenly I realised that some strange smell is going out from my car's boot. When I checked, I found out that Vehicle Power Supply Battery was hot, making some strange noise (like hissing), plus I saw that the battery exterior wall (towards to the trunk) was waved like it was overheated. But because all these stuff happened in the middle of my way, I could do nothing, so I continued my driving.
After 300 km I felt huge impact, I realized that I lost my 6th and 5th gears, after some time I realized that I lost 4th gear. That I stoped just in case not to break something. When I tried to start the engine, It didn't started, so I understand that all problems was besause Vehicle Power Supply Battery was drained.
As I mentioned before, all these stuff was in the middle of highway, therefore I took the wires (crocodile), connected Starter battery with Vehicle Power Supply Battery and managed to start the car's engine and get to the City of Prague. I took out the Vehicle Power Supply Battery, opened battery cells and found out that all of them were dry, no acid at all.
My question is - could it be that the Vehicle Power Supply Battery was overcharged (overheated) because of some mistake of battery charge controller and all acid just go away in some way?
My truck had power to the Brake Controller until a recent road trip and now there is no power to the controller. All fuses are good. Which circuit the power comes from?
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I do a lot of diagnostic and keys programming but my mechanical knowledge isn't' that good. I had a minor accident last week and a car hit my Prius from the passenger front corner, Areand left a small dent, check the red X in the pic.
I noticed after the accident that the engine noise was much higher, I checked all ECUs with Techstream, I found only one error on the Transmission ECU:
C2318 Low Voltage Error(Power supply Malfunction).
Cleared it and didn't show again even after driving 200 milesIs
there anything behind this area that can cause that noise? or something responsible of reducing the engine noise might be damaged or broken?
My friend has a 2008 Elantra, and she had me jump start the car the other day. The car jump started just fine, but then when it was idling, the headlights would flicker, as if there was an uneven of inadequate power supply. Then, when driving the car, turning the wheel and taxing the power steering would cause the headlights to almost turn off momentarily. After driving for 30 or more minutes, the car did not improve at all. I turned the car off, then went to start it, and immediately it was too dead to turn over again. I'm lost with the electrical, I don't think its the alternator.
View 2 RepliesWent to go and start my truck this morning and noticed after it was running that it sounded like a misfire, then i seen the smoke... I shut the truck down and lifted the hood and seen that somehow i had a high pressure fuel injector supply line on the Lh side break off. The line that goes from the fuel rail to the injector port on the valve cover (theres 4 of them on a side). There doesn't seem to be an o-ring or anything on them, they are just pressed over and tighten down.
View 6 RepliesI am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
View 3 RepliesAfter not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.
I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.
What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?
Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......
y '02 SC430, which had been in an accident, is throwing a low voltage code and showing the airbag light. What was the reason for the code (C1336)?
View 6 RepliesI bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery.
I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostic's on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes.
This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.