Passat (B5) :: Smell Of Fuel After Cranking / Car Is Not Starting At All
Aug 7, 2012
B5 1.8T - A few weeks ago, I had some battery issues. Long story short, I ended up changing the battery. A few days later I began to have an issue with my coil/ICM. I decided it was probably a good time to do the delete and conversion to 2.0FSI coils. Before doing that, I used a generic hand held scanner to clear codes and see which would come back just to have a baseline for after the conversion.
At this point, car is not starting at all and I'm getting smell of fuel after cranking. I pull out plugs and see they are soaked with gas. I probably shouldn't have, but at this point I went and converted everything over, expecting that when I was done it would start....
Meanwhile, at this point the car cranks but doesn't start, and it seems as if fuel is dumping into the cylinders. Hooking up to an Elmscan5 and Scantool software, I get absolutely no codes (it IS connecting to ECU to some extent). Im not even able to get the cable to work at all with VCDS lite..
So I have NO codes and a car that turns over but wont start and smells strongly of fuel when I'm cranking it.. I am reluctant to buy anymore tools or software at this point; I'm thinking maybe I fried the ECM, or could it be as simple as throttle body adaptation?
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2000 1.8t 5 speed Jetta ... The car has run fine up until recently when I started having some starting issues. It was intermittent, and got more frequent and longer. The car will crank but not fire. In the beginning, I could crank it for a few seconds, turn off and turn back on and then it would fire like nothing happen. This continued to happen and progressively get worse until I could not get it started, I could smell fuel which lead me to assume I had to spark.
Today I went out to swap crank sensors but only tried for a little while and cant really get my hand up there. So, I disconnected the battery for a while, went back and connected it, and it started. Up until this point I have had the same 2 codes, over/under boost, but the car has always ran with them present. I scanned today and got a p1545 Throttle position sensor code...But only got that one time. Ive been messing around with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and among one of these times, the EPC light came on and would not rev passed 1k rpm. turned it off, turned it on, and it was fine after that.
Im sure I have a sensor about to let go Im just not too sure which one it is. I dont have vcds and am not getting a low signal code from the crank sensor with the scanner I have.
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A friend of mine have a 94' Explorer with the 4.0 v6. Fuel pump starts for 2-3 sec when i turn the key, stops when cranking and starts again when i stop cranking. i checked the fuel shutoff switch and it was ok, and it have spark.
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Just curious on what it could be. I checked all fuses I did find some blown ones but I replaced them then the car worked and now it not cranking again. I checked the fuses I found another bad one i replaced it but still not cranking. All lights turn on, radio turns on. The fuses were check engine slots.
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I replaced the battery in my 07 3.6 4mo thinking it was in need due to the cranking time getting longer and longer recently. I began to notice this since the winter. I think it was somewhat there in the summer and fall also but when its super cold or the car has been run in a day or so it seems to be worse. Anyway replaced the battery and it didn't change much at all.
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My daughter drives a 2005 Passat station wagon, has a small child and one on the way. She has had intermittent problems with the car just not wanting to crank. After sitting 15-20 minutes it will crank. But the wait and not knowing if it will crank is taxing me and her. Especially since she has another one on the way. She has taken it to a reputable mechanic. They kept it for 3 days, cranking it on and off without a problem, and told her they couldn't find anything.
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98 Passat 1.8T FWD
Car will not start. No sound from fuel pump while cranking. Pulled up the carpets and pulled the cover and connector from the fuel pump. Ive heard the relay is the common problem. I tried checking the voltages on the harness and we get 0 while cranking. Pulled the relay and we get a resistance from T pin to pin 86. I did notice a yellow color on the white connector on the fuel pump itself around the middle two contacts.
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99 passat 1.8T... Just started yesterday, may be due to the cold weather now, but it has a strong fuel smell upon cold start... Under the hood, the smell seems to be coming from near the air box... Anything there that could be leaking?
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Ok, 04 Passat, 1.8T AWM
CEL is on for po456 (very small evap leak) and every time I fill up on fuel, I can smell a STRONG fuel odor, from near the fuel neck, and inside the car. Stops after it hits around 3/4 area. No leaks, and the car runs fine. Gas cap, and N80 valve were just replaced, both parts are from the dealer. I'm going to bring it in for a smoke test soon. All recall notices have been done too, I just did the timing belt.
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The joys of owning a VW never ends...
Fuel line after the fuel filter going to the engine has sprung a leak...
Either way fuel line part number 561-130-307 is leaking wanted to give another heads up to people who are experiencing diesel smell inside the cabin...
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This is my dad's car.... Today it began taking a while to start. It will turn over, just doesn't start. If you crank on it a while it will eventually start then runs perfectly fine. The problem occurs both cold and hot. I tried cycling the key 5 times, each time until you hear the fuel pump shut off then cycle again... it's starts just fine doing that. If you shut it off then try to restart, it'll just sit there and crank until you cycle the key a few times. There's no check engine light or OBD codes.
The fuel pump only runs for a second or two when you flip on the key, which tells me it's not having a problem coming up to pressure... and I'd imagine if I had a fuel pressure issue, it wouldn't be running smoothly and I'd have some hesitation, right?
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 189K on it and noticed that it takes several seconds (4 to 5 seconds) of cranking before the car starts. When the car was newer, it used to crank quicker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs @ dealer using iridium type
- Always used Premium Fuel (Petro Canada 91 grade)
- Put in a bottle of injector cleaner (Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner)
- Throttle Body has been cleaned about 20K ago
- Oil changes are Mobil 1 5W30 year round with Denso Filter
- Battery was replaced last year with an Optima Red Top and was tested a few months back to be in excellent working order.
What I have observed is that when the weather is VERY cold outside (i.e. -20), it seems to crank quicker, but if I keep my car parked in my garage overnight and start it, it takes several seconds. I have never had the car not start on me so that's a good thing.
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My 2000 honda accord v6 wont start (150,000 miles). It feels like its cranking over just wont go anywhere from there. So it doesn't seem like an starter issue or battery issue. It has done this to me in the past a couple of times but after letting it sit there for a bit it started back up. The weather hasn't been an issue on the times it wanted to start or not start. I know a oil change is due and
The EGR valve needs to be cleaned/replaced but could those things make my car from not starting? When i put the key in the car and turn it to the II, the Maintenance required light comes on and the light for the key just keeps blinking.
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I bought a 2004 Santa fe with the 2.4 engine not running. It will not get spark, it is getting fuel I can smell it strong after cranking...It has a new crank position sensor, I took the timing cover off to verify. Whoever put the sensor on cut the wires and soldered/ heat shrink them back together obviously because they didn't want to remove the timing belt. It Also it has a new ignition failure sensor, all fuses are good, there was a spare computer in the vehicle which I tried still no luck. I took loom off and looked at the harness and can't find anything.
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i've got a 2000 chevy impala 3.4 v6 E. runs great once it starts, but lately that takes a lot of cranking. it's getting spark. it's got a new alternator, battery, starter, plugs and wires (and i checked for spark already) I think it's a fuel issue but don't know where to start looking because it has no other problems. there's no smoke or noises, no misfires, or hesitations. i put in a new fuel filter. i have heard that it could be the fuel pressure regulator or maybe even a leak in the line that's causing it to not get pressure. i can't hear any sort of fuel pump sound (maybe i'm deaf) is there a way to check this without a gauge? i simply don't have one and don't have the money to take it to a shop. p.s. i recently replaced both o2 sensors, but i can't see how that would effect the starting. pump, hose, regulator, fuse?
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Having a problem with the engine cranking over a few times before actually starting. This only happens after the car has been sitting over night. Thought maybe it was a bad battery, but it has been replaced in the last few months.
When I turn the key to start, it tries to fire for up to 3 seconds before actually starting. This only happens on the first start of the day, after that it starts quickly with no problems.
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I've only had the car a month, and it's happened maybe three times now. I turn the key, and it takes twice as long as usual to start, about 5 full seconds of the engine cranking before it ignites. I think each time was after I had driven the car an hour or two before (when I'm heading home after an outing). Most of the time, the car starts fine. What's going on?
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1996 f150 sometimes it starts sometimes it don't. It is cranking over the starter is in gauging as well as the fuel pump I can hear it.... It's getting spark and I replaced the starter solenoid.
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Several weeks ago I made another thread because I was having crankshaft position sensor problems and essentially that was due to a short on the sensors wires which had become exposed. I replaced the sensor and it still did not work until later trying another brand which solved the problem.
I also changed all six spark plugs, wires, and plenum gasket with OEM parts. I was able to get to the back three plugs by following this tutorial with the guidance of a friend who is a mechanic. After getting this done, the car has run way better and smoother.
However, today it has been raining heavily and I needed to run an errand so I went to my car and turned the key but nothing happened. All the dash lights turned on and appeared normal. My radio works, lights work, etc; but I can not get the car to crank at all. I hear the fuel pump turn on and everything else sounds normal, but still no crank. There are no sounds from the starter at all, it is silent when I try to get the car to turn over.
I took a look at the car and the coil pack seems dry, the plug wires are secure, plus we had put di-electric grease on all those connections. The negative terminal on the battery has a solid connection. I even tried jumping the car to see if maybe it was due to the battery, but again nothing happened.
This has only happened once before when it was raining, before I had changed the plugs and wires, but I was able to get it to crank over after about 4 minutes of waiting and contemplating getting a tow. I took a look at all the fuses and they appear to be intact.
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2002 elantra gls 125k miles, Automatic
I have a very intermittent problem starting the vehicle first thing in the morning ( this has happened twice this week, but only 5-6 times in the past year or so). It will crank and sound as if it just about to start, but not quite fire. After 5-10 mins of cranking, shifting into and out of gear, rocking vehicle (not sure what actually causes it to start, if anything) the car fires and runs just fine, starting normally until the next "event".
Plugged it in and got no codes.. The only difference I can see is that every time this has happened recently the car has been parked in a parking garage at work on a minor incline for about 13 hours.
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I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
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