Passat (B6) :: Cluster Trim Right Above Dash Display Rattles / Creaks


Mar 16, 2009

So I've been able to suppress all of the rattles in my car except one: The cluster trim right above the display rattles, it creaks, hell, I can hold a conversation with it. What can be done to remedy it? The 'turn up the radio' technique doesn't work.

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I traded my 2010 Prius II in for a 2012 Honda CR-Z Hybrid EX NAV this morning and it was bitter sweet... I just could not take anymore of the endless rattles and creaks that were in the interior of the car...

I know some people had great cars that were very quiet, but my Prius was not one of them - The interior rattles, combined with the rattle under the front that the dealer could never seem to hear was all I could take...

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On my 2 door GTI, I had 2 rattles. One was coming from the door latch mechanism, and the other was coming from the black plastic b pillar trim. I picked up a can of "Blaster" silicon spray from Home Depot and sprayed just a little bit into the latching mechanism (on the door side). So far this has completely eliminated the knocking noise that I would hear in the door when driving over bumps.

On my drive afterwards, I kept hearing the infamous noise from the b-pillar trim, which seems to be a result of heat expansion when going from cold temp.... how the piece would sit there creaking when the car wasn't even moving. Anyways, I sprayed some of the silicon lube onto a q-tip and applied it to the edge of the plastic b-pillar trim that runs along the inside edge of the door. I guess I put enough on the q-tip to get it inside the edge of the plastic where it touches the metal of the door.

So far, my car is quiet as a mouse. It feels so good to have my car sound like the day I drove it off the lot!

Disclaimer: It could be a coincidence and perhaps the b-pillar had finally warmed up to a temp where it stopped creaking on its own, but it DID stop creaking as soon as I drove off after applying the lube. I'll post back if anything changes.

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So I finally decided to look into all the little creaks and rattles that the R makes while going over bumps in the road.

-Wrapped the latches of the rear seats in electrical tape, and put adhesive velcro (soft side) on the back of the seats where it meets plastic.

-Took apart the center console and put adhesive felt around the areas where plastic makes contact with other plastic

-Put adhesive felt inside the aluminum trim & Monsoon radio to stop shaking

So all those little fixes eliminated most of the rattling sounds in the car. All that I need to look into are the driver and passenger doors to secure whatever is rattling/shaking inside those panels. Something to do this coming week. I normally would leave these noises alone, but damn they drive me crazy like it's a form of Chinese water torture. I hope to have no more rattles in the following week.

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Recently bought a CPO 2010 RX350 with 57k miles on it at a dealer on 8/30/14. Its developed quite a bit of interior rattles and creaks from what sounds like the structure over bumps and roads that aren't smooth. Plus the sunroof has a high frequency rattle. None of these were present during the test drive.

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I guess I could have the dealer remove it but I dont want them taking my glovebox out to do it = more rattles. Why does VW make it so difficult to remove something that should be so simple!!

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Last fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)

Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.

What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?

Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.

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I had this in my 06 Passat, it was turned on by the dealer I guess, my 08 Passat doesn't show it. I know there's a little trick but can't find any info.

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With my B6 '09 wagon, when I turn off ESP by pressing the console button, the icon flashes on the dash display and then goes out. Is this working correctly? I would think it would flash when ESP is on and it has encountered slipping and corrected. With the button set to off, I would think the light would stay lit on the dash?

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For kicks I did a Vag COm scan the other day (last one was a year ago and I cleared the codes ) and I have a handful of intermittent codes again. Mostly the same. Cleared again, rescanned in a week and only one came back. They are mostly Central Convenience / HVAC codes. The one that came back was one of 2 codes for positioning motors in the HVAC.

I know digging into dash stuff isn't fun. Creaks and squeaks and demons come out if the the tech isn't careful in what he does. I'm not noting any issues at all.

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