Having issues with the auto-ebrake? My friend has a 09 passat with the push button ebrake. He was changing his brake pads when his ebrake will not release. He was told by VW to not use a c-clamp to depress them as they would mess up the sensors or something along those lines.
View 14 RepliesIs there a thread on how to change the disc brake pads? I need to do it but don't want to make any mistakes......
View 14 RepliesHow can you tell if it is time to change brake pads without taking off the wheels on the 2012 GX460 Premium?
View 14 RepliesI am wanting to change my rear brake pads and . Looking for step by step instructions or photos.
View 1 RepliesI am going to have to change my brake pads (I am probably going to do the rear shoes as well). I was wondering if I should get my Toyota dealer to change the fluid as well. I have 116,000 miles on her. Lots of highway driving, and this is only the first replacement set, these pads last forever. The fluid has never been changed before.
View 6 Repliesi have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
View 2 RepliesI noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
View 1 RepliesMy independent mechanic just swapped out some PBR Deluxe pads that he put on with new rotors in June with with PBR Deluxe Plus pads. He did this free of charge because the front brakes were making a loud metallic clunk sound on the first brake application when backing up (weird, no?), and they were dusting like crazy. Back in the summer I followed the bedding-in procedure fellow Vortexers recommended. Aside from the clunk, the brakes were silent, though extremely dusty.
Well, after a couple of drives with the Deluxe Plus pads, I can say that they perform very well, just like the Deluxe pads before them. It's too early to tell if the dust issue is better, but the metallic clunk is still there, though far quieter than before (even with the windows open); I'd say its more of little click now.
But here's what I really don't like. I took the car out tonight to bed the brakes, doing 5 or 6 60-to-30 mph runs, followed by 5 minutes of 40-50 mph cruising with little braking and no real dead stops. All was good until I went to get gas afterward: as I slowed to <10 mph, I heard some squeaking from the fronts. Not hugely loud, but enough for me to be upset about.
Did I do something wrong? They were fine until the bedding-in run. Maybe the temperature (20s) played a role? I didn't think I went too nuts on them. I'm hoping I don't hear the squeak tomorrow. What about the persistent click I hear when braking for the first time in reverse? Could this be related the excessive dust with the PBR Deluxes?
Background: I had new rear brake pads/shoes installed today. The dealership installed them, and let me know that the front wheels still have another 10,000 miles before they'll need new pads. I have 55,000 miles on my Passat. Back in August, I put new Nokian tires on.
So, when I took my car from the dealership, after they installed the brake pads, I went on the highway, and my ride felt different. It was a rumbly roughness, but it was subtle. I am not even sure if I am imagining it, but I don't think I am.
I checked the air pressure of the tires, and it's fine. The invoice from the dealership said "replace rear pads/shoes, service drums/rotors and check wheel cylinders". I do not know how any of that could make my ride have this slight roughness to it.
My 99 Passat 1.8T eats brake pads and rotors like crazy. After about six months I hear a rattle, which sounds like brake pads came unglued. After a month of rattling, the pads must shift into a new groove on the rotor, and pulse like crazy. I can handle that, but this time the parts store gave me pads without the wire coming out of the pad. I thought the wire was just a brake wear sensor, and I figured I didn't need it, but now my ABS light is on. If that is a wear sensor Can I loop the old wire and bypass the system? I like having ABS. Also, with the two piece caliper, the spring holding the two pieces together broke. Can I get a new spring? Or do I need a new caliper? I appears the brakes function with the damaged spring, but I'm guessing the pads will wear unevenly. Or maybe the abs light is because the pads are seated funny because the caliper isn't sitting right?
View 4 RepliesMy car has about 37k on it; and while the front pads look to be about 50% worn; the rears look like they are closer to 90%. Is this normal? The car is also sluggish while braking especially when the engine is being auto-revved to keep the system voltage up (a known problem). It also seems that the car will step into ABS lock-up mode too soon in a panic stop situation; which might also indicate that the brake system is biasing too much power to the rears; too little to the fronts.
I've never had a car wear the rear brakes more rapidly than the fronts; usually the rears are much more lightly utilized to reduce the tendency to skid. Is there any way to adjust brake bias? I'm getting ready to change rear pads and flush brake fluid.
So my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
View 3 RepliesWhat's with the rear brake pads wearing out before the front brake pads. Took my '03 Passat in last week to the dealer for the recall and the service dept. guy said my brake pads were worn out. I took the car to my local mechanic who specializes in VW's. Sure enough, rears were almost gone but fronts still had plenty of meat left on them. Of course I had him replace the rears. But I always thought the fronts wore out first. Could this anomaly be due to ABS?
View 11 RepliesOK, I just got back from having pads and rotors install on my '99 Passat. I was expecting this to clear up the brake and abs light problem but it did not. The brakes still feel mushy and the ABS light still comes on.What should I check? In the brake forum people suggested bleading the brakes, is this the next step? Any quick how to?
View 3 RepliesPut new pads on by 2006 Passat tonight. Disconnected the battery removed the calipers and used a 12 volt battery to retract the pbrake then pushed back the pistons. Buttoned everything up but when I started the car had the park brake fault light and car is now in limp mode (3rd gear only with harsh engagements.
Disconnected the battery again and will let it sit.
Back in April when I was getting my car inspected the mechanic told me I needed new rear brake pads. I knew I did so I let him change them.
Now I get noisy brake pads this moaning sound out of them when I apply the brakes while I'm backing out of a parking spot or my driveway. I've only driven about 5 or 6 hundred miles since then.
I have about 50,000 miles on my pads, they look 50% gone, but couple days ago I've got short "beep" and light yellow came on(circle with several small parts of larger circle). What and why? Rotors, pads, other?
View 4 RepliesHad my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
View 4 RepliesI want to change the brake fluid on my B6 TDI 140. I know how to do this using the classic procedure (cars without ABS), but i want to know how to change the fluid inside the ABS hydraulic group using VAG.COM ?
View 9 Replies I want to change the brake fluid (DOT4) of my 2 yerars Passat B6 TDI 140, as recommanded by VW.
I can do it by using the classic procedure, but i want to know how to change the liquid even inside the ABS hydraulic group. Should i just do an actuator activation test ?
ok, just started to use my vag and now im stuck on trying to change my blinkers from 3 to 4 clicks and releasing to parking brake
View 1 Replies