Passat (B5) :: Brake Noise After Swapped New Pads
Feb 10, 2007
My independent mechanic just swapped out some PBR Deluxe pads that he put on with new rotors in June with with PBR Deluxe Plus pads. He did this free of charge because the front brakes were making a loud metallic clunk sound on the first brake application when backing up (weird, no?), and they were dusting like crazy. Back in the summer I followed the bedding-in procedure fellow Vortexers recommended. Aside from the clunk, the brakes were silent, though extremely dusty.
Well, after a couple of drives with the Deluxe Plus pads, I can say that they perform very well, just like the Deluxe pads before them. It's too early to tell if the dust issue is better, but the metallic clunk is still there, though far quieter than before (even with the windows open); I'd say its more of little click now.
But here's what I really don't like. I took the car out tonight to bed the brakes, doing 5 or 6 60-to-30 mph runs, followed by 5 minutes of 40-50 mph cruising with little braking and no real dead stops. All was good until I went to get gas afterward: as I slowed to <10 mph, I heard some squeaking from the fronts. Not hugely loud, but enough for me to be upset about.
Did I do something wrong? They were fine until the bedding-in run. Maybe the temperature (20s) played a role? I didn't think I went too nuts on them. I'm hoping I don't hear the squeak tomorrow. What about the persistent click I hear when braking for the first time in reverse? Could this be related the excessive dust with the PBR Deluxes?
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Having issues with the auto-ebrake? My friend has a 09 passat with the push button ebrake. He was changing his brake pads when his ebrake will not release. He was told by VW to not use a c-clamp to depress them as they would mess up the sensors or something along those lines.
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Background: I had new rear brake pads/shoes installed today. The dealership installed them, and let me know that the front wheels still have another 10,000 miles before they'll need new pads. I have 55,000 miles on my Passat. Back in August, I put new Nokian tires on.
So, when I took my car from the dealership, after they installed the brake pads, I went on the highway, and my ride felt different. It was a rumbly roughness, but it was subtle. I am not even sure if I am imagining it, but I don't think I am.
I checked the air pressure of the tires, and it's fine. The invoice from the dealership said "replace rear pads/shoes, service drums/rotors and check wheel cylinders". I do not know how any of that could make my ride have this slight roughness to it.
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My 99 Passat 1.8T eats brake pads and rotors like crazy. After about six months I hear a rattle, which sounds like brake pads came unglued. After a month of rattling, the pads must shift into a new groove on the rotor, and pulse like crazy. I can handle that, but this time the parts store gave me pads without the wire coming out of the pad. I thought the wire was just a brake wear sensor, and I figured I didn't need it, but now my ABS light is on. If that is a wear sensor Can I loop the old wire and bypass the system? I like having ABS. Also, with the two piece caliper, the spring holding the two pieces together broke. Can I get a new spring? Or do I need a new caliper? I appears the brakes function with the damaged spring, but I'm guessing the pads will wear unevenly. Or maybe the abs light is because the pads are seated funny because the caliper isn't sitting right?
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My car has about 37k on it; and while the front pads look to be about 50% worn; the rears look like they are closer to 90%. Is this normal? The car is also sluggish while braking especially when the engine is being auto-revved to keep the system voltage up (a known problem). It also seems that the car will step into ABS lock-up mode too soon in a panic stop situation; which might also indicate that the brake system is biasing too much power to the rears; too little to the fronts.
I've never had a car wear the rear brakes more rapidly than the fronts; usually the rears are much more lightly utilized to reduce the tendency to skid. Is there any way to adjust brake bias? I'm getting ready to change rear pads and flush brake fluid.
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So my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
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What's with the rear brake pads wearing out before the front brake pads. Took my '03 Passat in last week to the dealer for the recall and the service dept. guy said my brake pads were worn out. I took the car to my local mechanic who specializes in VW's. Sure enough, rears were almost gone but fronts still had plenty of meat left on them. Of course I had him replace the rears. But I always thought the fronts wore out first. Could this anomaly be due to ABS?
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OK, I just got back from having pads and rotors install on my '99 Passat. I was expecting this to clear up the brake and abs light problem but it did not. The brakes still feel mushy and the ABS light still comes on.What should I check? In the brake forum people suggested bleading the brakes, is this the next step? Any quick how to?
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Put new pads on by 2006 Passat tonight. Disconnected the battery removed the calipers and used a 12 volt battery to retract the pbrake then pushed back the pistons. Buttoned everything up but when I started the car had the park brake fault light and car is now in limp mode (3rd gear only with harsh engagements.
Disconnected the battery again and will let it sit.
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Back in April when I was getting my car inspected the mechanic told me I needed new rear brake pads. I knew I did so I let him change them.
Now I get noisy brake pads this moaning sound out of them when I apply the brakes while I'm backing out of a parking spot or my driveway. I've only driven about 5 or 6 hundred miles since then.
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I have about 50,000 miles on my pads, they look 50% gone, but couple days ago I've got short "beep" and light yellow came on(circle with several small parts of larger circle). What and why? Rotors, pads, other?
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I have a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab 1500 with a 5.3V8, discs in front, drums in rear.
Series of events:
2011- Grinding noise from passenger front tire. Sounded like metal on metal. Removed tire to find that inside brake pad was completely worn down. I thought, at the time, that the pad separated from the plate, and fell off. I noticed at the time that my caliper was stiff (not releasing). No other (apparent) problems at the time. Drivers side pads looked as expected when I replaced them.
December 2012- Grinding noise from Drivers side front tire. I pulled the tire and found that the inside pad was completely worn. All the other pads looked fine. Still noticed that both tires were difficult to spin while in the air.
Feb 2013- Fuel economy has dropped an average of 3 mpg, since December. Started hearing an intermittent squealing/grinding noise from the front end. Seems to only happen when turning left (that could also be from my proximity to the front tire). I had my dad stand outside the truck while driving in circles. He said he couldn't be sure it was coming from the drivers tire. Sometimes the noise is loud. Sometimes its faint. The majority of the time there is no noise. The check engine light came on and I had a C0035 and a C0055. They are a Drivers side front speed sensor and a Vehicle Speed Sensor. Decided to change the drivers side caliper. I used pliers (yes I know I shouldn't have done that) to pinch the brake line to minimize fluid loss. Bled the line.
March 2013- Brakes have partially locked up on me twice in the last three days. I thought there was an electrical fire in my truck based on the smell of the brakes. I couldn't press the pedal. It was like pushing on a boulder. They didnt completely lock, but I could tell they were stuck. The second time it happened I drove immediately home and jacked up the front end. I could barely get the drivers tire to move. I cracked the lines from the master cylinder and some fluid came out. At that point, after reattaching the line, I could spin the tire easier than I have ever been able too in recent history.
Now, Ive read that the speed sensors on my truck are problematic. I'm inclined to think, since cracking the lines on master cylinder released the caliper, that the master cylinder is the problem. I just have difficulty rationalizing that the master cylinder would cause this problem, as of recently, predominately in the drivers side. It could be happening in the passenger tire as well, but it is not apparent.
I also use the parking brake every time I park my truck, even though its an Auto. I don't know why, but its habit.
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I am getting an occasional (though increasingly frequent) 'brake pad' noise from one or more of the rear brakes on my NHW11. Initially it would only manifest for half a minute or so per trip (and would disappear after some braking) but it is now more or less constant. It is a light 'rubbing' noise which you would expect from worn brake pads.
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The front pads on the R shift from one side of the caliper to the other whenever I move from forward to reverse they make a loud "clack". I thought it might be an O.E. pad issue, but I've changed the pads out to EBC's, but still no bueno. The new pads fit snuggly into the calipers and seemed to have solved the problem at first, but about 5k km's in, they're making the same noise.
I have anti-rattle springs installed, but they're not working. Is there supposed to be a pair of shims between the caliper sliders and the pads grooves that the previous owner removed for some reason? I don't think so, because that car only had 25k km on it when I purchased it; but you never know.
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I've been noticing this rattling sound when going over bumps, which doesn't seems to go away!. I know it's a problem with the brake pads because it goes away as soon as I depress the brake pedal. So I decided to take another look at each wheel.
- Brake pads are relatively new and properly installed.
- Wheels have anti-rattle clips properly installed.
- Bolts were properly tightened with a torque wrench by me.
- Slide pins are lubricated.
During my visual inspection I saw the rear wheel calipers are a bit loose and that should be making the noise. I would describe it as up and down play with respect to the rear rotors or the ground.
I don't know what would cause that since each bolt is tight. I don't know if low brake fluid could cause that, no lights are lit on the dashboard but will take a look at the reservoir.
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I changed out the brake pads, now it is making a hissing noise. I bled all the brakes starting from the back. Here is the video : [URL] .....
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Having brake pads making noise while driving on war zone like roads? Sounds like the front end is falling off. It started after a front brake job. Dealer then replaced all the clips and it was fine for six months. Now starting to make noise again.
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I'm having issues with very loud screeching noises on my 08 awd. Sounds like a garbage truck. Lexus said its $625 to replace brake pads and rotors to stop the noise. I'm not really a fan of DIY so is that a fair price for the parts and labor or should I bring it somewhere else?
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05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Replaced the front brake pads two months ago. I put in Akebono pads and did nothing with the rotors as the original pads were not completely worn out and there is no vibration whatsoever in the pedal.
The pads have recently started making noise on brake application. I'm getting ready to take them back apart and re-lube everything. Should I take some sandpaper to the pads & rotors to knock off any glazing? Do I hit it with a course or fine grit? I have not had this problem happen in the past and was thinking that maybe it is the quality of the pads but I believe these are oem...
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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A friend of my brother swapped an auto trans OUT of his 98 passat (2.8 L) WITH a trans code EZZ and now its stuck in 3rd and in safe mode... What could be the cause??
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