Phaeton :: 2007 - Jet Engine Whine Only On Full Pedal?
Jul 27, 2012
I've just started to get what I can describe as a jet engine winding noise up when I accelerate when in drive, whatever gear and whatever speed. I'm thinking it's the auto gearbox, 92k miles (I've not checked oil), the noise doesn't happen when not in gear. It lags like a turbo noise, but if it was the turbo, it would happen always? There's no loss of performance and I can drive it normally with no noise, just if I accelerate harder whilst underway.
2007 2.9 diesel 6speed.
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I'm getting an audible whine on starting up from the engine that continues low revs / speeds but disappears upwards of 30 mph or so.
It's only audible inside the car and not outside and is definitely not transmission as it still makes the noise when in P or N.
The car drives perfectly normally, no missing or other issues.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and am having a major problem. On 3 different occasions, the accelerator pedal has stuck open at full throttle. At first I dismissed the problem as a fluke or the floormat and pedal getting stuck together.
This week while on vacation with my family in Myrtle Beach, SC, I was pulling onto a 4 lane and had to "punch it" from a dead stop to get up to speed with the other vehicles. When I got up to the desired speed I let off of the accelerator pedal and to my dismay the vehicle kept going. I told my family to hold on and immediately hit the brake and safely pulled into the median while the vehicle was still surging. With my foot on the brake my wife put it in neutral and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up. I checked to see if the floormat and accelerator pedal was stuck together somehow and they were not touching. I do not know if it was me freeing up the pedal with my foot or if the vehicle some how on it's own finally reved back down to normal RPM's.
In essence my family and I were in a runaway vehicle and luckily the braking system was strong enough to safely stop us while at full throttle.
This was a scary experience for my wife and I and a horrifying experience for my children. It was the exact situation Toyota had a couple of years ago with the accelerator sticking on their Prius models.
Is the accelerator system a mechanical one with a throttle cable going to the throttle body or is everything computerized. I do not know if it is a mechanical or computer problem.
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On my 2012 Santa Fe I'm getting a whining noise from the engine while it is park. I think it might be alternator.
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I have a 2007 SE with 3.3L and Auto transmission. 70k miles, regular service performed.
Starting a few months back, I've noticed a low volume hum/whine coming from the engine compartment. I notice it more when I'm in drive, but also notice it to a lesser degree when in park and revving. In drive, the sound gets just a bit louder and higher pitch, until shifts, then lowers at low RPM, growing again as revs move up.
since it happens in park, I'm thinking it is engine related, not transmission? (I usually change oil around 4k, sometimes as high as 5k)...
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My 2.2 crtd is the first ever diesel car i have bought, but i have noticed a whine especially when cold, pitch bieng raised as engine revs. Is this a characteristic of this car or am i in for a bill further down the line.
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I have 2007 explorer 4.6 v8. The check engine light is on, and i can only fill the gas tank about 3/4 full, after moving the gas nozzle all around and taking about 15 minutes. I read a few different things while searching. Like vapor canister need to be replaced. or the vent hose needs to be replaced.
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Yesterday I took the car out to do some Christmas shopping and after driving it for about 20mins I heard this whine coming from the driver side (outside). I turned off the music and air vents and noticed as I slowed down the noise got worse and as I increased my speed the noise some what dissipated.
Also the noised seemed to match the pitch of the engine almost like when the radio gets engine interference from some of the older cars. So towed the car to the dealership and they are telling me that I have a leaking power steering hose which does not make much sense to me due to the noise and lack of steering fluid under the car.
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My Phaeton has pretty audible whine when turning the steering wheel. Closer to lock- the louder the noise. Can I check the fluid myself or is this going to become a trip to the dealer?
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When my fuel gauge gets to 3/4s full it stops working and goes to empty. My range display also goes off. When I refill it works again until it reaches the same point.
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I have a 2003 F150 4x4. There is a whining noise when going 45 to 55 mph (at least that's the only time I can hear it), but only when the gas pedal is engaged. I thought I'd work back to front and I took off the rear differential cover, cleaned it out and changed the rear differential fluid. That did not reduce the whining, but I think those spin when the wheels spin anyway. The whine only happens when the gas pedal is engaged.
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I was filling up the Phaeton tonight when the gas pump malfunctioned. Instead of shutting off when the tank was full, it just kept on pumping until gas came spewing out of the tank. The side of the car (and my best pair of pants) got drenched in gasoline. I immediately went home, threw my clothes in the laundry, took a long shower, washed and waxed the car, and cleaned the seats with leather conditioner for good measure. The car still smells of gasoline, but not so badly now.
My question is this: Is there harm in filling the tank completely to the brim? Because my tank is now as full as it possibly can be. Is there anything I should do before I drive it again?
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I'm having issues filling up my gas tank; I can't pump gas at full speed, not even at the slower setting that you can set the pump to. It just clicks off like it's full. When I pull the gas pump out i can see some gas has collected and it takes time to drain down the pipe. In order to fill the tank I have to hold the pump so it pumps slowly. It seems to be worse during hot weather; and the severity of it varies.
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I have about 1000 miles on my 350 F Sport AWD, whining noise. When I am driving with any pressure on the gas epedal, I hear a high-pitched whine in the cabin. If I take pressure off the gas pedal, the sound stops. It comes back as soon as I touch the gas pedal. The sound seems to be coming from the rear of the car, and it happens whether the audio is on or off.
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It seems that the seat bottom does not elevate to the full extent. I like to have the front of the cushion a little higher than the rear, but the front doesn't seem to elevate as much as the passenger seat does. I've noticed a couple of threads about the fore and aft resetting, but nothing about height or angle adjustment. I've driven several other Phaetons and this one definitely has an issue with the bottom cushion elevation.
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The last two fill-ups I have noticed the fule gauge only goes to the last small mark before the "full" line. I haven't hit any thing under the car. It can be slow to fill but I know it's full.....like really full, to the small filler hole full . Is there a way to reset the fuel gauge limits with a Vag-Com?
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Lately, I've noticed that when I start the car in the morning, the radiator fans come on at full blast, even though it's around 20 degrees F (not all the time, but most days). My temperature gauges all show (what I assume are) correct temps as it starts out cold, water first goes to 200 and stops, then oil slowly climbs and stops at 200 I believe.
They don't climb any faster or slower that I've seen, and usually by the time I get to work (around 20 minutes), the oil temp has probably climbed about 3/4 of the way to normal while the water is steady at 200.
Is this normal? I don't recall this happening, as I would've noticed as the fans are quite loud at full blast. I haven't had a chance to run a diagnostic scan yet, but the car hasn't warned me of anything either.
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Right above the foot rest on the driver's side is a bracket with a light and some kind of purple connector -- it's attached precariously with one screw on a VERY thin piece of plastic that i inadvertently hit with my foot and broke off. is this going to require some crazy full dash replacement to fix?
When it broke, it was dangling by wires behind my brake pedal, which seems incredibly dangerous. Just wondering how badly I'm going to get hosed on getting this strange lapse of german engineering fixed.
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A couple weeks ago I started experiencing some issues with what seems to be the ABS: when braking to a full stop, a "motor" sound appeared accompanied by vibration on the pedal; however, the ABS indicator light did not light on (although it does light on when I start the car). Several weeks later I began having problems with the transmission. It first appeared when putting the vehicle in reverse but now it happens in almost all gears. Finally, the "service engine soon" light turned on.
I took my car to the mechanic and he said the problem is a solenoid and quote a repair (includes valve body replacement and work). He claimed that the "ABS problem" is related to the transmission issue but as I explained above the "ABS problem" predated the transmission issue. My question is, does this link between ABS and transmission make sense? Also, if I go ahead and replace the transmission valve body can I be confident that I won't have any more issues with the transmission for a while? I am concern about spending more on this car giving its current trade value (I already replaced the front suspension struts, brake pads and rotor discs and new tires).
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Requiring that the brake pedal be depressed in order to start the engine can be a nuisance, say if the driver is out of the vehicle and the passenger wants to start the engine to run the A/C, etc.
There is a workaround though. Press the engine start switch once to go into ACC mode, then press and hold it for 15 seconds and the engine will start without the brake pedal having to be pressed.
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Changed timing belt after several teeth being stripped. Engine runs but won't idle without foot on gas pedal. Drives smooth as long above 2000 rpm. Thinking there is one or more slightly bent valves. Quadruple checked timing marks. Coils are good. Fuel injectors are good. Spark plugs are new NGK's. DTC's are 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 - misfiring.
Have a line on a low mileage head with warranty. 2007 Accent 1.6L?
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