Prius (Gen 2) :: Replaced Gas Cap - Check Engine Light Came On
Oct 24, 2013
A little less than a month ago the "check engine light" came on and I panicked. Lit up orange, not red and it was flashing, just a stagnant orange check engine light. I tried do some research and found that the gas cap was the majority reason why it tends to go on.
I checked my gas cap, and I thought it seemed lose by what it seemed like a simple screw off. So I screwed it back on and made sure I heard the couple clicks. After about 2-3 runs and turning the car on and off the light disappeared.
The next day, was driving and it came back on. I didn't even mess with the gas cap. Over the next period of days, it turned off, then turned on again.
I have a check engine light that doesn't know what it wants to do.
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Our 2005 prius has logged 170,000 miles (we purchased it used with 90,000) and this is the first time we've ever ran into any issues with it, love the car. Well, a few weeks ago the check engine light came on and we just happened to have an emissions inspection that week, which was failed because the check engine light was on (they didn't even test the exhaust).
After taking it to a local dealer to see what the check engine light was all about, they came back and told us it was related to the Coolant Heat Storage system and that the CHS temperature sensor would need to be replaced. They also told us that the water pump had a minor leak and would need to be replaced. Another non-related but related issue is that the driver side wheel liner was ripped out when my wife decided some off-roading... and after seeing where the CHS is located this might be a factor.
Could low coolant levels (related to the water pump leak) be causing the CHS temp sensor alarm? I'm making an appointment with the dealer to have water pump replaced (or may DIY if the job isn't too bad), I'm just wondering if I should hold off on the CHS related parts until that has been fixed. I checked all the connections and everything seems good, no corrosion yet. The temp sensor is on the front side of the tank so it wouldnt be getting splashed too much by the wheel even without the liner.
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I just switched out my hybrid battery and put in a brand new one. Now, the car isn't doing anything and all that's on is the check engine light. What now? I was told I had to tow it to Toyota and have them reset the computer. Sound right?
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I just had my hybrid battery replaced this weekend for the 2nd time in my 06. Drove it home, was about a hour drive and everything is going good. Well go to drove it this morning and check engine light is on. It has anything to do with hybrid battery chance?
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I just bought a 2006 prius. It had 2 bad cells in the battery pack. I replaced the cells and all seems to be well, they all read the same voltage and the car appears to be driving, charging, working.
I still have the red exclamation mark and check engine light. The only code I get says to replace hybrid battery pack.
There are no other specific codes or issues and it runs perfect. Basically I guess what I am asking is how to clear the light or figure out why the light is still on!
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2012 Prius Gen III 38,000 miles, check engine light came on. Drove car to dealer and they came up with error code 0456. The explained that a rodent (I live in a rural area) chewed on a hose which is causing a leak like a bad fuel cap.
To solve this problem they recommend that the entire gas tank needs to be replaced. Does this seem reasonable? It seems to me they are saying that the chewed hose can not be replaced.
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I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
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Check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago on my 2013 elantra gls. I went to auto zone to get it checked and they ran a p2096, which is what I had almost a year ago. That was fixed by dealer software update. So, I thought that was what needed to be done, headed to the closest Hyundai and they found p2096 and p2196. They replaced the o2 sensor bank 1, under warranty.
However, the next day the check engine light came on, less than 24 hours. Brought it back to the dealer, they said everything was within the correct "parameters" and said the light shouldn't come back on. On the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on, when the car was in the exact same spot it was yesterday.
I'm thinking the computer doesn't recognize the repair and needs to cycle a few times but I don't know. I'm so tired of going to the dealership because they are obviously missing something if the light is still on.
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This car has been giving me quite a bit of trouble lately. 04 Ford Taurus SES, about 97,000 miles on it. Just last weekend, it broke down on the highway. Found out the torque converter failed and needed to be replaced. I was suspecting that something was wrong with the transmission for a while now, because it would stutter sometimes when accelerating, and sometimes start shaking in the front when I turned it on. (It still stutters after having the torque converter replaced.)
Well now, a day after shelling out quite a bit of money to the dealer for this torque converter, the check engine light is on. I went to Autozone to check the codes, and they found P0300, P0305 (cylinder misfire) and P0316 ("crank sensor condition"). Is it possible the transmission is failing?? I found a bunch of complaints online about the transmission failing on the 04 Taurus. I'm trying to avoid more expensive repairs, but I don't want the car to break down on me again....
Also, a couple months ago, the check engine light went on a few times, but always went off within a day or two. Never did get it checked out because it didn't stay on long enough.
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I have a o3 sc430 that's driving me crazy I have replaced the 02 sensor on my car three times and the cars vsc and check engine light comes back on after driving less then a mile. If I really step on the gas it'll come on faster. Where should I look for a vacuum leak? The mechanic says it could be electrical problems too...
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I own a 2004 Ford Escape, auto, v6. I bought the car in 2007 and have had trouble with my check engine light ever since. It is usually on, but will turn off shortly after I wash it (then back on a week or so later). When mechanics test for the code, they say that my catalytic convertor needs to be replaced. In addition to the on/off strange behavior, I have been driving this car for 4 years now with no major mechanical trouble that I can only assume would result from not replacing the CC. This would be very expensive repair, one I am not interested in doing if this is possibly just an electrical problem. I am ready to get this problem solved and start driving check engine light free.
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I just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
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You know the "mechanic's fiances truck" problem. I recently replaced the cam sensor in my 05' F250 Gas. The check engine light had been on for a while before that and my truck rode great, however I now want to sell it and I can't do that with a check engine light on. It's got about 85k miles on it.
After replacing the sensor, the light went off for about 20 miles, but it is now back on and my truck seems to miss every once in a while on acceleration or cruising. Some days it's worse than others. The check engine light still says cam sensor, but the sensor is brand new.
My fiance is a mechanic, so I don't know all the details about code numbers and such. However, I want to sell this truck pretty soon, and I would like it to run correctly. His dad (another mechanic) seems to think it could be a coil and wants to wait for that light to come on, but I would rather fix the problem and sell the truck!
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This morning I tried to drive my 2008 Prius and the "check engine" light quickly blinked and the dashboard didn't light up. The monitor did turn on and I could hear the engine running. The monitor showed that the hybrid battery was almost full. While trying to go in reverse, the camera did not work. We just had an oil change done. The 12V battery was replaced almost 2 years ago. The car has almost 150K on it. I also tried tightening the gas cap. It's obviously winter and it snowed last night (in case that might be a factor).
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I have a 2007 Prius which today, for the first time ever, refused to start. I pressed the Start button and all that happened is the "check engine" and "airbag" lights came on (dimly), and the green LED on the "P" (park) button began blinking. I pressed the "Start" button again but nothing I can do will change this. The car is sitting in my garage now, in this condition. I turned the dome light on briefly and it was very dim, so I suspect the 12v battery is dead. Only problem is, to access it requires opening the back hatchback door, which won't open without 12v power. Meanwhile the tiny bit of power that's left is being drained by the system in it's half-on condition (above). If I could get to the battery I could connect an external charger to charge it up enough to start it but I can't. What should do?
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I was wondering if this seems reasonable. I just bought a used 2008 Prius top trim package with 107,00 miles on it this last month. The first day I owned it a check engine light was triggered. The guy I bought it from hooked it up to his computer and cleared it to then try to trigger it again. This happened when I first turned on the car. I started backing and then it turned on. I didn't know what caused it as we couldn't trigger the response again. It's been a few weeks now and 1 trip to the shop for some repairs. There have been no problems what-so-ever since then and my Prius just started getting close to the 50 MPH as advertised after a tune up.
Today when I'm driving, as the seller did mention before could happen, the right headlight turned off. As he had told me before, just turning the lights off and turning them back on will get it working again. I did this and as soon as I did the check engine light came on. I go back to the night I originally had it happen and I was probably in the process of turning on my lights.
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Recently there has been a series of problems popping up with the Prius. Its a 2003 model year.
- About four nights ago the warning icon and check engine light (picture below) popped up upon engine start-up and i noticed a weird idle. It seemed to idle rough. After about 20 seconds of idling the engine would shut off. After about 10 minutes and 6 or 7 attempts to restart the engine the warning lights disappeared and idle seemed to be restored.
- The afternoon after that the same warning icon and check engine light popped up along with the rough idle. After about 10 minutes and 6 or 7 attempts to restart the engine the warning lights disappeared and idle seemed to be restored.
- After this incident it seems like the vehicle is getting bad gas mileage. The picture below shows me getting an average of 25mpg. I was driving very conservatively. Driving the same way i usually do, i usually get 45-50mpg. The vehicle seems to be charging the battery more than usual.
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2006, 2G, 43000K. This has happened twice now. Both times on an extended trip of 3+ hours in hot weather: Cruising along at about 70 MPH, the engine just quits. RED Triangle; check engine light; and vcs light. Turned everything off. Car would not restart right away, but after waiting 15 minutes or so, the car restarts and runs fine. All warning lights off except check engine light.
Immediately drove to a Toyota dealership where the following codes were found: P0AOF info 204 (Engine failed to start); and P3190 (poor engine power). The Tech checked the EFI relay; checked for oil puddled in intake; and checked for a contaminated MAF sensor. "No problems found"!
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I got my oil changed today and thought everything (10 am) was fine with my car. I drove it straight home after the oil change. About 4pm I drove it to work and no problems still. Finally tonight on my way home right as I turned on to my street the car at first seem to hesitate. Slow a bit and I pushed the accelerator. Then suddenly as I pulled in my drive way the engine began to shake as though I was about to stall and the check Engine light came on as well as the big red triangle.
This has happened before. The display being lit up like a christmas tree so but this time the engine shook. I turned the car off, check the oil, which is full and the coolant which is full. The engine has not shook yet ( but I wont leave the car on for a long time to see if it happens again) the Red Triangle has turned off and now only the check engine light remains.
I am going to call Firestone, that is where I got the oil change all I know is that they did a routine check up (unauthorized by me) and told me I needed a new water pump drive belt and tires and a air filter..... So I am hoping they didn't touch something by mistake. I told the man that I would much rather have that done by the dealership.
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My wife and I own a 2006 Toyota Prius that we bought used 2 years ago. a couple of days ago, the master warning light (red triangle exclamation point) and check engine light came on. I took it into the dealer and of course, our hybrid battery was dead - battery and a new ECU required.
Our car is at 99,000 and 32 days out of warranty. Went down the road to atlanta hybrid repair. they were incredibly nice, and said that my computer was fine, but the battery would need to be replaced.
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Started my 2010 gen 3 Prius 3 the other day and got a bunch of what I thought was engine clatter and the check engine light came on.
The next time I started it, no noise. Anyways brought it to dealer and they diagnosed it and ordered a new manifold.
The next day when the part arrived, I brought in the car. Talked to the mechanic, a great guy, and he explained what happened. Apparently, the clatter is actually the springs rattling in the clutch mechanism of the starter motor/electric motor and not the valves like I thought.
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