Prius (Gen 2) :: Safety Of Shims For Rear Alignment?
Apr 19, 2011
I shimmed my prius this weekend to remove about 0.44 degrees of positive out of 0.60 theoretically bringing total toe down to .16.
The shims add about 3.8 mm between the hub and the suspension. The bolts are M10s I believe with 12 mm heads. There are 4 bolts per hub. I often take off ramps at a pretty good clip rather than braking when going from one freeway to another. The 4 bolts already seem like they wouldn't be enough to hold the hubs on.
When adding the shims, it moves the hub further away resulting in a little more torque at the mating surface on the opposite side of steering. Also, the bolts just barely make it to the last thread.
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Daughters explorer sport trac, needed a neutral safety switch and a fuse ( no reverse lights),, I have replaced both but now the shifter doesn't line up right.
P is now reverse, and cant get all the way over to 1 with out holding it...
the two marks in the switch line up for neutral.... and switch is keyed to shaft...
how do i now re align this so shift indicator and transmission are on the same page again??
I am guessing move tranny arm all the way to the rear of the truck position and put shifter in P....then put cable back on arm.... but doesn't seem to work ....
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So my rear and front toe is off and is causing inside wear on the rear tire. I want to add a shim to fix it as the rear axle would be too costly to change.
Also how much would I need to fix the rear? I'll be getting them aligned after the rear is fixed.
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2010 Prius, replacing my tires for the first time at 43K miles, got alignment and shop told me that my rear camber and toe is out and needs shims, measurements are amber left -1.2, right -2.2 toe left 0.40, right 0.15.
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I noticed that in my car the rear spoiler is not flush with the body of the car, Is there any way to adjust it? By looking at it very briefly it seems that the rear hatch will need to sit lower for better alignment.
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I just replaced front shocks and got the car aligned. Now I feel the difference in front to rear and want to change the rear shocks out too. I seem to remember someone suggesting under normal circumstances the Prius rear setup never gets aligned. Is this true?
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I just got new tires and had an alignment done. The values for the rear were off ... not too much ... but the tech said the rear suspension of the Prius isn't adjustable.
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Since I had my '02 I've had the child safety lock on the passenger side rear door on (active). I went to disable it (you know, stick the ignition key in and turn it 90 degrees to the side without the child's picture) and I'm still unable to open the door from the inside.
Everything else with the door works fine. The power locks work. Even pulling the handle twice pushes the lock button to the up position. And opening the door from the outside works as it's supposed to. The only thing I cannot do is open the door from the inside. Have I missed anything?
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I have a problem with my driver side rear door's child safety lock. The safety lock is STUCK/BROKEN on the lock position and i cant get it back to normal... The door could only be opened from the outside right now at all times.
I took the door panel off too see if i could do anything to make it unstuck but very unfortunate...
The safety lock is a whole module itself. I bought it to my mechanic he checked it out and said it cannot be fixed and has to be replaced and he quote/estimated me just the part alone is roughly $300?
How much the part would cost in Sewell? I tried looking it up but cant locate it
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I lost my key fob for my 2011 Prius (no spare). I called a few locksmiths and no luck. Towed the car into the dealership (waited 5hrs) they told me I needed a new ECU and my car was not responding to their programs. They said my car has gone into safety mode where no one can get through to the system.
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I don't like the idea of Safety Connect, and already have AAA membership. How can I disable Safety Connect? I'm only a few months into a trial membership, do I call toyota to cancel? Or can I just disconnect some fuse?
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I thought I would start a new thread on this issue. I recently had my car lose power and all warning lights on, I was able to coast to the shoulder and once safe I turned the car off, hoping that cycling the power would fix this odd problem. No such luck, the car was completely dead and unresponsive except for the door locks and the hazard lights.
So I hit the "SOS" safety connect button to get someone to come tow me. NO luck -- oops, I guess the car is *really* dead. I had my cell phone and the rest of the story is in another post.
Now here is my question: Is Safety Connect supposed to work when the car is off? It seems way less useful in case of an accident or malfunction if I can only call if I can turn the car on.
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Where to find shims for the ac clutch. They guy at O'Reilly didn't know what I was talking about when I mentioned an air gap for the ac clutch. He recommended switching out a sensor on the compressor. I have a 1999 F-350 7.3. with 266550 miles. I seem to be having a problem w/ my ac cooling for a few minutes then blows warm air then will blow cool again. All happening while never making switchs to the controls. I have read the other post regarding this issue and it seems to be the air gap is to wide. I backed out the screw in the center and then pulled off the faceplate of the clutch. Question, is the shim the washer looking item which was up inside the faceplate of the clutch? If so, how many are supposed to be there? I saw only one. This is the first time this has been opened up. And if there has been excessive wear, wouldn't the gap get narrower instead of wider?
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Are both necessary?
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And I have coil overs, I'm not super low but pretty low and every time I get my alignment done they say they can't so anything about the rear having so much negative camber. And it is really eating up the inside sidewalls of my tires like crazy.
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I've done the center console with cup holders conversion, but I've never bothered installing the rear cup holder, until now. Is it supposed to have this gap?
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It's been a minute since I've been on these boards, surfing, searching posting, etc.
Anyway, I replaced my upper control arms when I replaced the suspension in '06 w/some ECS units. Since then I've run through some rear tires more quickly than than up front. It's been tolerable bc I don't drive it as much.
The last alignment, the tech said he got it close to spec, but not quite. The inside part of the rear tires is where the problem is.
If I replace the stock lower control arms solve the problem of the getting the rear alignment closer to spec? Thoughst?
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I recently replaced my pads and rotors and when I pulled everything out there were no shims? is that ok run without shims? my rotors were warped bad and I'm wondering if that was part of the cause? my pads had plenty off life left but I changed them anyways? Doing the rear to since I still feel a light wobble when on real smooth pavement...
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I have a 2004 Camry and I got an alignment at Firestone they rep told me that my rear left camber alignment is off, my right camber alignment is is within range.
Actual :-2.3 Range -2.0.-0.5
He recommended I change my struts as Toyota does not specify rear camber adjustment. Is this normal on car with 160k on it ?. I have seen several chamber kits out there should I just get one and go somewhere else for them to realign it with the kit ?
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
If I replace the rear sway bar end links, do I need to get an alignment? (I just got an alignment 2 days ago). Here is a DIY on replacing the rear sway bar end links: [URL]
The top attaches to the strut.....what is the bar the other end attaches to?
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Is it common to have to shim the water pump pulley? I don't know why but mine seems to have moved back a fraction of an inch. I loosen the belt tension and slide the belt back and as soon as I start the motor, the belt slides forward again. And as I rev the motor, the belt moves even further out onto the edge of the water pump pulley and starts to squeal. All other pulleys are aligned and the belt spins fine on them. I thought about buying a shim kit, but I ordered a new Motorcraft water pump since I have 154k miles on my truck.
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