Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2008 Limited - When Accelerate Car Seems To Pull To One Side
Dec 22, 2016
I'm noticing more and more on the highway when i accelerate that my car seems to pull to one side then when it shifts it snaps back. I'm not really sure if i'm even describing a transmission issue or a power steering issue. Basically, it just seems to pull and snap back fairly strongly, enough to cause a slight swerve as it shifts during acceleration. (No error codes or check engine lights)
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I drive a 2011 Limited. Three out of the past four mornings the car has been reluctant to start. It is cold out, but not super cold. This morning it was 1C (34F).
When I turn the key, it cranks but does not fire. I Held the key for what felt like forever, but in reality it was probably only 6 seconds. I let go of the key, waited a few moments and then tried again. After the third try, it finally fired and ran normally. It didn't stutter or otherwise seem to have any problems.
At this point I went inside and found my basic scan tool. No codes were stored and the voltage was between 13.5v and 14.6v. After I drove to work, I turned it off. The voltage dropped to 12.1v. When I cranked it again at work, I saw the voltage drop to 9.5v for a second before it fired up and jumped to 13.5v, then 14.6v.
The car has the original battery. Could it be as simple as a battery? Oh, I Just remembered, when the car did start, the radio was off. Upon turning it on, it was reset to defaults. Other than this starting issue that has only recently started, pun intended, and the radio I am having no other issues with the car.
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First indication, I had fuel gauge issues showing empty when def had plenty of gas. next idled very rough at low speed. Auto Zone read and gave me p0300, p0464, p0302, and p0304. I need new throttle body injector. I would be happy to buy and install but any input before I do? Should I have it looked at? could be more?
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I have a strange problem. My driver side low beam dont work and my right side high beam dont work. Try different relay (switching), check fuse, bulb etc. Also in my dashboard the right green arrow for the flasher always still on(solid).
If I activate (with the control arm) the right turn flasher the flasher light blink in the dash board and my outside flasher bulb flash but my left high beam also blinking in the same time!
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I'm noticing more and more on the highway when i accelerate that my car seems to pull to one side then when it shifts it snaps back. I'm not really sure if I'm even describing a transmission issue or a power steering issue. Basically, it just seems to pull and snap back fairly strongly, enough to cause a slight swerve as it shifts during acceleration. Where to start on something like this? (no error codes or check engine lights. Also no vibrations or other sounds).
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Over the past year we have been noticing that the HVAC blower doesn't turn on from time to time. All settings in the control panel seem normal and the fan speed is turned on. Most of the time everything is working normally, sometimes when the car starts the blower isn't working and then starts after a minute of driving. Sometimes I notice the blower isn't working and I turn up the fan speed and after a few clicks it starts working normally for the remainder of the drive. And then sometimes the blower doesn't ever start and I need to turn off and restart the car a few times. When the blower hasn't been working the a/c compressor has been turning on, something in the blower circuit is failing.
There are five possibilities:
The HVAC controller isn't telling the blower to turn on
The power relay isn't always working
There is a wiring or connection problem
The blower motor itself isn't working
The power mosfet is failing.
What needed to be replaced?
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I am getting a clunk from the front passenger side when going over bumps or when the road is not smooth.
It seems to happen at lower speed, so when I am on the highway, I cannot hear anything. The sway bar link seems to be the common thing, but when the car was lifted, there was oil on one of the struts.
2008 3.3 Santa Fe ... The car has 115k KM. Is this a normal thing for it to fail at this point? Last time I had clunks in the suspension it was a sway bar link that was repaired at the dealer under warranty. I can't remember if this is the same sound or not.
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I've got a 2008 santa fe limited 3.3 awd with about 170000 km on it. Lately when I brake I've been hearing a clicking noise coming from what sounds like the driver side front wheel area.
Had it in to my mechanic who checked the brakes and said that pads/calipers/rotors were all fine. They replaced the passenger side front bearing on the lower control arm a few weeks ago and said there is no play or noise coming from any other suspension components.
Where to look next? My mechanic isn't sure what it is so I was going to take it to the dealer and see if they can fix it. Also had new tires installed about a month ago
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2007 Santa Fe 2.7 engine
My wife was driving along and she said she heard a loud 'thunk' and then she couldn't accelerate and the engine light came on. I don't know if she had to restart it or what but she finished out her day and made it home ok. The engine light went off. When she got home I put the scanner on it. I have a Actron 9580A. It came up with 3 codes.
P2106
P1295
P161b
From what I've read on here and what the codes tell me I guess I need a throttle position sensor and that a computer update is needed. Is the ECM update something that can be done without taking it in? If I do need someone to update it is the dealer the best place? Can I install the TPS then drive there? Or does it have to be done at the same time? I was just thinking I might save a few bucks doing it myself.
Prior to this the Santa Fe had no codes. I do need to replace the battery which tested bad last month. I think the battery will need to be replaced before doing the update.
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This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. Today I briefly turned the heat on since the outdoor temp was cool. Later in the day, I resumed the A/C AUTO setting at 72 for BOTH sides of upper vent outlets. I soon noticed that the driver's side blows warm air and the passenger side blows cold air as it should. No amount of adjusting the temp control either up or down had any effect on the driver's side except for constant warm air. Now I know the passenger side can be adjusted separately but both sides were set for the same temp. Never had this happen before. Always before, if I wanted warm air, the warm air would come through the floor outlets. What's causing warm air to come out the top driver's side vents when it should be cold? Could a diverter door be stuck?
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I have a 2007 hyundai Santa Fe GLS. When the AC is on the drivers side blows hot air and the passenger side cold air. Both actuators are working driver side and passenger side. I watched them engage as I changed air flow and temp. What I should look at next? Also, the rear ac button light will not come on and it blows hot as well.
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Ok...I've been reading about Michelin tires on the forum and unfortunately, I just bought my 07' Limited with a brand new set of Kelly "Charger" Tires. So, I took a trip last week and noticed at 55-73 mph, the car rides nice, smooth, and quiet. However, when I hit 74 or 75 mph, I began hearing a road noise that sounds as if the tires have hit a certain oscillatory air resonance at this speed.
I'm wondering if it's due to the tire tread pattern or something else. Strangest damn thing. When I accelerate faster, the noise seems to diminish a little but still isn't smooth and quiet. Maybe I'm just drowning it out some while it accelerates. When I bring it back down below 74 mph, it goes nice and quiet again.
I have the tire pressures set at 40 psi (trying to get a little extra fuel mileage). However, I'm wondering if this might cause the problem...I believe the pressure should be between 35-38 psi. My TPMS light hasn't lit up, so I guess it doesn't see fault with an extra 2 psi. Anyway, the tires appear to be a quality tire. I looked they show the following ratings.
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I've got a coolant leak on the drivers side of the radiator. I don't drive the vehicle that much because I use it primarily for towing in the good weather seasons. I drive it once a week unless we have snow than I drive it more.
I have seen small amounts of coolant (yellow/gold) in the snow when parked. It does not appear to be very much, but it does concern me.
Anyway, here is a link to some pictures : [URL]....
Where to look for this leak. I looked from the bottom and the top (without access to a lift) and I couldn't see anything revealing.
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My beloved 07 Avalon is in the process of getting totaled because someone (NOT ME) didn't bother to see if there was any oncoming traffic before turning. But I digress.
I'm 99% I'll be replacing it with another 07 Limited, and I have to finish cleaning it out of all my belongings tomorrow. In short, I'm taking everything out of it I can, including my satellite receiver. Looking at the procedures for installing the 06 and 09 (which I could find easily online) it looks like all I need to do is:
- remove the panel on the right inside of the trunk
- remove the receiver unit by unscrewing the 2 10 mm nuts
- unplug the receiver
Is there anything else I should grab while I'm in there? And, how hard is it to remove the panel in the trunk?
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Problem just started last night when I turned the defroster on. Now the engine cuts off when the air is turned on at lower speed/rpms.
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So, when the 2008 Sonata Limited (4cyl) was started yesterday, the + sign by the shifter lit up (first time ever since we had never used Sport mode). The car was indeed in Sport mode and wouldn't come out of it regardless of how you moved the shifter or to which gate, etc.
Took the car to a local well-regarded auto shop today and they said when they started it up it was not in Sport mode and worked correctly. I picked it up and sure enough, the plus sign was off and the car was in normal auto mode. On the way home, the + sign lit up again and yes, it went into Sport mode again and won't come out.
Btw, this Sonata has 68K miles and has already had two full brake jobs. It has nothing to do with this issue.
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I picked up a 2004 F150 a few weeks ago. It has the limited slip 3.73 rear end. During acceleration on turning, I'm feeling quite a bit of chatter out of the rear end. I've read the TSB on it, and I'm wondering how much it'll cost to get the clutchpacks replaced in the rear differential.
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I have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
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I have an '07 Avalon Limited with the heated/ventilated front seats. The drivers seat just does not seem to cool properly, and what the problem might be. Occasionally when I put my hand on the seat I can feel a tiny amount of air blowing through the perforations, but most of the time it's not nearly enough to cool through a pair of jeans, and I can't even tell that it's on.
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On my sister's 2009 avalon unlimited, the remote will only unlock the rear drivers side door. If the door handle is grasped to unlock the doors, only the rear drivers side door unlocks. On the inside of the car, the drivers side door unlock switch (master switch) does nothing. The passengers side door unlock switch only unlocks the rear drivers side door. The bottom line is that only the rear drivers side door locks and unlocks using the remote or passenger side door unlock button on the inside of the vehicle.
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