Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 3.5L AWD - Bumping On Flat Road When Turn Slowly
Jan 7, 2016
A few days ago I felt a feeling of bumping on a flat road when I turn slowly. I was wondering if it might be a transmission shift shock due to an insufficient warming at the cold temperature. It seemed such bumping didn't happen after enough warming more than 5 minutes.
The outside temp was just above 0 degree on yesterday morning, I started SF without warm-up and drove about 15 minutes. Then I was making 3 point turn on a residential road covered with a little bit of ice on its edge when I felt one of rear wheel was slipped a bit on the ice and rear wheel got locked or seized and skipped. Upon the complete turn I was able to drive the SF home slowly cautiously, however every time I made a slow sharp turn left or right there had been skipping leaving tire marks on the driveway.
I thought 4wd lock was initially activated at that time and it had not been deactivated since. I tried to push and release 4wd lock button several time with no success, and I felt the SF moving very heavier than usual. I was trying to park the vehicle backward with a sharp turn too, it was much harder to turn back than forward feeling like rear wheels were stuck somewhere, suddenly there was a loud banging or thumping sound from bottom behind. Right after the banging the SF was moving as normal.
Today I tested SF by driving above 60km/hr as well as sharp turning for 30 minutes, everything looked normal. A couple of hours later I decided to test 4wd lock button again. While I driving SF at about 10km/hr I pushed 4wd lock button and released it 15 seconds later. I did it a couple of times because I was not sure if 4wd lock was activated and deactivated. And I was making 3 point turn again, then the same rear wheel seizure and skidding happened. I stopped the SF and I pushed and released 4wd button a couple of times with no success.
Finally I tried to turn back as I did before, and there was a banging sound, I thought the sound was weaker than yesterday, since then everything went back to normal. There is no grinding or clunking noise from the area where the differential unit is located. I was wondering if mine has faulty electronic clutch itself or any other components. The warranty was over 5 months ago, mileage is only 49,000km.
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I bought a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L and noticed the engine would jerk really bad. It felt like the engine was going to jump out of the vehicle. I notice it does it when I turn it on in the morning and when I am driving slowly out my lane way the engine jerks. I have dealt with this problem since last year and they have already replaced the transmission which has done nothing. I took it back to the dealership and the service manager told me that he has already had 4 of the same vehicles come in with the same problem and they realized that they had to re-set the computer in the engine so that the transmission computer and the engine computer are on the same page that they talk to each other so to speak. Since they re-set the computer we have had the vehicle back a week today and this morning the car jerked again. I am tired of constantly taking this vehicle in and being told they have a solution and then it is not fixed. How am I supposed to sell a vehicle to someone when it feels like you are being lifted out of your seat because of the JERKING!!!!!
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Is there a way to tighten this up? Do I need to remove the mirror from the windshield to do this? (because, I can't even seem to figure out how to do that!)
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I don't believe it's the one where the bottom of car hits the road because of bobbing up and down and having low clearance from tires to bottom of car frame. I've heard that type of noise before as passenger in other people's cars.
Is this noise likely to be associated to some suspension component, axle, or the shock absorbers, etc.? I recently had the shocks replaced about a year ago, I hope the shocks didn't just die after a year. Other than that, car runs fine.
I did have tires replaced with new ones recently though if that makes a difference, car didn't go through alignment check though, just rebalance new tires.
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My brother was the previous owner and this has made the noise for years so it's not critical but annoying. I removed the dif. cover to change the oil. All the teeth are smooth, no rough or grinding surfaces. No play at the wheel end so I don't believe its a bad bearing. Oil was used but not burnt up or sludgy and very few metal flakes at bottom of housing. Thought it looked good for the age. Also, both wheels off ground and truck in neutral. There seems to be a lot of resistance while turning the wheel. I don't think the brakes are dragging but will eliminate that possibility this weekend.
What rear axle I have. Why its making the noise? How to repair it? Is this a posi diff?
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Still pulls and I have to physically hold the steering wheel centre when driving.
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Those are the codes I'm getting. P0340, P1166 and P1167
Here's the story. Engine running flat under load. Easy acceleration is ok, but merging onto the turnpike causes a noticeable loss of power. Replaced the cam sensor, cleared the codes, ran ok for a day. Same codes came back, same flat performance.
Returned the cam sensor with another new one to make sure it wasn't a dud out of the box. Advance Auto Parts is awesome - replaced it no questions asked.
Installed the new cam sensor, cleared the codes. Ran great for a day, then the same symptoms came back, with the same codes. I'm thinking it might be the ECU? If it is, how expensive are they? And do they have to be programmed by the dealer?
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