Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Bump / Jolt When Moving From A Stop
Jul 14, 2015
When accelerating from a dead stop I can feel a small bump/jolt coming from the rear. It only happens when you move from a dead stop. Its not a shift. Its more noticeable this week.
If I lock the AWD it does not do it. But when I turn off the AWD lock (at 20 -30 kms/hr) I can feel the bump - as if the driveshaft is disengaging.
Its a 2010 3.5 V6 AWD. 115,000 kms on the odometer. I had the viscous coupler replaced last Oct under warranty. I'm taking it in for an oil change and brake job next week.
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I'm experiencing a weird problem with my 09 Santa Fe (just under 15k miles). A few times, while in slow and heavy traffic (and ONLY then) I experience a hard jolt or jerk. The 1st time it happened I thought someone had hit me in the rear but that was quickly ruled out.
I suspect this has something to do to do with the tranny. Though it occurs maybe once or twice monthly, I am beginning to have concerns and suspect that the problem will get worse with time.
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I got an Error Code of U0D00. What this is or means. The scan tool says to refer to your manual but I don't have one.
What the vehicle is doing is that it will work fine for a while then when you stop (in park) the engine will rev really high and back down all by it self for example. It will go up to 3.5 and back to 1 rpm repeated. Then when you start moving the car it will continue to idle higher like you are pressing the gas. During all of this the check engine light will appear?
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I've had a 2007 Honda Fit with around $130K for a year. Car performs ok but a recent problem started that I'm not sure about.
When accelerating after a full stop, sometimes it makes a sound like tires squealing and sometimes a thump. I notice it happens when I accelerate normally; if I do it gently it doesn't (but since I'm a former native New Yorker, "gentle" is not in my vocabulary). The squealing is not coming from my tires but from my engine. The thump happens only occasionally. And none of it happens when I'm driving; only when I start after a full stop.
Otherwise, acceleration and braking is no problem whatsoever. It may or may not be relevant, but this problem started only after I got the car professionally washed.
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Bought 2009 santa fe new [3.3]. after cold start up tac is moving up and down and it seems to be missing. After temp is reached tac is steady but there still seem to be a hesitation when driving. 21,000 miles on vehicle. could it be a bad tbs?
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Since few days ago , at the morning when moving from P to D , There is hit sound coming from the transmission with Car shaking, the issue started as like shifting sound with small hit sound , after 3 days , the sound be like hitting with car shaking .
This happened Just at the morning after around 10 hours of stopping, the case reproducible as I moved from D->N->D , But If i drive the car for short distance like 50m, every thing getting be normal .
The gear shifting smooth, the fluid at the level with good quality, the fluid changed at the 60K, now the car at 73k . What could be the issue ??
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My 2010 SF has 36000 km and I've noticed a "crunching" type sound every time I go over a steep ramp or a speed bump. The sound comes from the rear and never happens on smooth road. I took the car in for service last week and the dealership has ordered two rear replacement shocks -- they say it's premature failure.
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I am the new owner of a 2007 Lexus GS350 and I absolutely love the car. 70k miles and it has been well taken care of by the previous two owners. The question I have is regarding a strange subtle jerk when coming to a stop. This seems to be the most intense with a medium force stop but I can also feel it when coasting to a stop. It happens frequently and sometimes is less harsh than other times. I noticed it right after picking up the vehicle but I didn't really pay much attention. After driving the car for 2 months I notice it more. The jerk seems to be happening during downshifting and is at about 15 mph every time. It's not extreme but passengers typically notice it if I point it out. Then they can feel it every time it happens. The other shifts are smooth including accelerating and so forth. I reset the ECU (pulled the ETC and EFI2 Fuses) about two weeks ago but haven't noticed a difference in shifting.
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I purchased a 2009 Hyundai Accent Automatic with less than 50000 Miles. I recently had to replace spark plug connector due to rats. Now, having issues with getting it to drive in the mornings. Description;I let the car warm up about 2 minutes before putting it in drive. Once I let my foot off of the brake the car begins to jolt forward and won't stop until I put my foot back on the brake. Even while holding the brake the car jolts but won't go forward. I have to put the car back in Park before it will stop. This goes on for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then, as if there were never any problems, the car drives as it is supposed to. *I have turned the car off and restarted but the car still jolts forward until it decides not to.I have checked the transmission fluid and it doesn't appear dirty but maybe low. Would low transmission fluid level cause this type of behavior? I am on a budget and a huge transmission bill is not really something I can afford right now. But I need to be able to get to work everyday. I can't imagine that the transmission is going up when the car has less than 50000 miles on it. I've had it since the middle of January.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe 3.5l FWD 155k miles. Car has been incredibly trouble free until now. When the transmission up-shifts from 2nd to 3rd there is a hard jolt. All other up-shift and down-shift points work smooth. Occasionally will shift smooth just after I start the car or if I am accelerating hard. The rough shift happens whether I am in D or use the "manual" shift control. This coincidentally(?) started just about the time I had a battery die hard and an O2 sensor fail. Both have been replaced. Changed the AT fluid and no difference. No engine codes, but I think the AT codes don't show there? What might be going on? Any chance the battery failure had anything to do with this? Seems odd that battery, O2 sensor and transmission all start acting up at the same time.
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I have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
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Started hearing a weird humming noise (not the usual hyundai hum in the front passenger side) coming from the front when decelerating from approximately 20mph down to a stop or from a stop up to 20mph. Went to a shop and ruled out wheel bearings, brakes, rotation, alignment, etc. Noise stopped.
Couple weeks later noticed physical resistance and upon accelerating to about 40mph it felt like I had a flat tire. That bumping, vibrating, shuddering feeling. No flat tire. Physical resistance, not power. Came and went in severity depending on terrain and speed. Brought it to a 2nd shop because the first was closed. The guy found codes that indicated the anti-lock brake system had failed. Said it should be covered under warranty and I should go to dealer.
Dealer replaced a brake switch (which has been recalled and was replaced before) and an inhibitor switch. They assessed the brakes too.
Car drives fine for a week and suddenly the brakes are screeching and we can't reverse out of a parking spot like the car is stuck on a snow mound but isnt. Rock it- in and out of forward and reverse to get out. We test it putting it in reverse again and car slams to a stop. When the car was pulled up on the tow truck we noticed only the rear driver tire didn't spin-locked up.
Dealer says no computer codes and that they just had to "adjust" the brake switch they had replaced. Drove home fine. Next day and for these next few days-something is still wrong. Physical resistance, not power. Cracking/popping noises when braking.
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Last Saturday and today, I drove the car to run some errands. When hot, I turned it off for 5 to 10 minutes. Then it wouldn't start, the starter was cranking strong but the engine didn't start. I tried for 15 minutes with the same result.
Then, I waited for the engine to cool for an hour, it started fine. Both times the temperature outside was around -25 Celsius.
The dealer says he can't do anything if can't replicate the problem. The car is Santa Fe V6 FWD 2011 with 44 000 km.
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I have a 2009 Sante Fe Sport 3.3; that recently just started locking itself. The way i knew was because the horn kept going off as if we were pushing the lock button on the keyfob a bunch of times. Well the keyfob wasn't being pushed and the only way I could get it to stop beeping was to hold the unlock button on it. I thought it was the battery dying on the keyfob but I took it out and the car continued to beep. We are taking it in to the service department tomorrow. The only was I can stop the madness is if I have the door partially open, to break the circuit (I would imagine)
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All my turn and hazard signals work normally when engaged but when it snaps back into the off position the turn signal (sound only) keeps going rapidly. It goes on and off randomly. It's the sound in the dash only. What it is? I can replace it myself I just need to figure out what it is.
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I am having an issue with the turn signals on my 2010 Santa Fe. When changing lanes to the right and moving the turn signal lever up slightly, the turn signals activate normally. However, when releasing the lever, the signal lights stop flashing (as they should), but the flasher clicks at a rapid rate and won't stop. I have to jiggle the turn signal lever to get it to stop clicking. I have checked all lights and the bulbs are fine.
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Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
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I have a santa fe from the year 2008 and recently i had a trip where i would get tons of white smoke every time the car was at idle at the stop light. upon inspection, i saw that the coolant level was below the low line so i had it topped up and the problem disappeared. Everything was fine until today when the problem occurred so i checked the coolant level on the side of the road but the coolant level was fine and still is upon inspection when the car was cooled off. After i stopped to check the coolant level and restarting the car, the smoke was gone and did not appear again. I checked the internet for solutions and some suggest blown head gasket but many of the symptoms do not make sense in my case since the engine never overheats and the coolant level hasn't gone down in the past week.
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We have a 2012 Santa Fe Limited V6 AWD. Currently it has 17,400 miles on it. It's my wife's daily driver and has been a great vehicle. Last week while she was coming out of Target and slowing down for a stop sign she felt a "shudder" as it downshifted from 2nd to 1st. Then as she was coming up to a stop light it did it again. So, she came home and told me about it.
On the highway coming home she said it was perfectly fine but stopping at the stop sign on the off ramp it did the shudder. And so I took it out for a test drive to go get the mail. I noticed that it would shudder on the 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts. On the up-shifts it was perfectly fine. Then, I noticed as I was rolling forward at about 1-2 mph waiting for someone to cross the street the car was rolling like one of it's wheels or axles was bent. Any faster than that and you can't feel it and again at highway speeds you can't feel it at all. It's glass smooth.
Soooo, we bring it in to the dealer and they say we bent the front drivers side axle shaft. WHAT!? How in the world would we have bent that? They said we probably hit a big pot hole but it's under warranty and that they will have to order the part and to bring it back the next week. We drive it for another week and the shudder is getting worse and at this point I'm pretty sure the trans is toast. But still, on the highway it's perfectly fine.
We bring it back in to have the axle shaft replaced and they say it will be about 2 hours. And so we go on our merry way trying to kill some time. About 1.5 hours later we get a call asking us to come back in because they need to get us a loaner.
Apparently as the tech was trying to spin the drive-shaft to line up the splines in the trans with the axle shaft he couldn't turn the drive shaft even though it was in neutral. There was a spot in the rotation of the transmission and drive-shaft where it would spin freely like it should and then it would hit that spot and was almost "un-turnable". They think that is what bent the axle shaft.
So, they are going to tear apart the transmission and transfer case to find out what the problem is but most likely going to have to end up replacing one of them anyway.
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I need locating the locking clips that hold the high mounted stop light assembly in place. Are there any diagrams?
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I have 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe......approx 10K miles......no major issues to date
Drove my son to school this morning and pulled into a parking spot.....the shifter would not move into PARK......it was stuck....would only go into NEUTRAL and DRIVE....the vehicle was idling
I was a little panicked, but put on the parking brake and called the dealership on the cell.....they told me to pop the cover on the switch near the shifter and and depress the reset button (needed a flat head screw driver).......it took about four tries and then finally worked.....
I shut the vehicle off, restarted it and tried to put the car into REVERSE...to back out of the parking spot......shifter was stuck again.....had to depress the reset button......
Immediately took the car to the dealership where it was DIAGNOSED with a faulty "stop lamp switch".......causing the shifter to stick and the brake lights not to work... this was a recall item for the 2007 Santa Fe, but not the 2008 (that I'm aware of)
Dealership replaced the stop lamp switch and had me in and out in a hour.......but they did not initially give me a write up......i told them this was a very dangerous situation that had just occurred and I wanted a write up.....they happily complied....
So keep a flat head screw driver (glove compartment) in the car and have your dealership take a look at the stop lamp switch, on your next visit, even though it was only recalled on the 2007.......I will also be contacting HYUNDAI directly...
ETA: ESC light was illuminated when I was trying to get the vehicle into PARK from DRIVE......also contacted HYUNDAI and gave them a description of the incident and now have a case number.
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