Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Humming Noise On Decelerating From 20mph Down To A Stop Or From A Stop Up To 20mph
Jan 24, 2016
Started hearing a weird humming noise (not the usual hyundai hum in the front passenger side) coming from the front when decelerating from approximately 20mph down to a stop or from a stop up to 20mph. Went to a shop and ruled out wheel bearings, brakes, rotation, alignment, etc. Noise stopped.
Couple weeks later noticed physical resistance and upon accelerating to about 40mph it felt like I had a flat tire. That bumping, vibrating, shuddering feeling. No flat tire. Physical resistance, not power. Came and went in severity depending on terrain and speed. Brought it to a 2nd shop because the first was closed. The guy found codes that indicated the anti-lock brake system had failed. Said it should be covered under warranty and I should go to dealer.
Dealer replaced a brake switch (which has been recalled and was replaced before) and an inhibitor switch. They assessed the brakes too.
Car drives fine for a week and suddenly the brakes are screeching and we can't reverse out of a parking spot like the car is stuck on a snow mound but isnt. Rock it- in and out of forward and reverse to get out. We test it putting it in reverse again and car slams to a stop. When the car was pulled up on the tow truck we noticed only the rear driver tire didn't spin-locked up.
Dealer says no computer codes and that they just had to "adjust" the brake switch they had replaced. Drove home fine. Next day and for these next few days-something is still wrong. Physical resistance, not power. Cracking/popping noises when braking.
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I have a 2007 Subaru Forester, bought from a dealer with 7,000 miles on it in 2007. I religiously had the oil changed every 5,000 miles and had other recommended work done. At 90,000 miles I did not have the work done immediately, but waited until 92,000 miles. My car then ran out of oil, with no smoking, no oil in the driveway, no warning light, so I believe the dealers didn't fill the oil at 85,000 miles. But that's not why I'm writing. I had a remanufactured short block assembly installed and the other work done at the dealer to the tune of over $6000.
Now that I have my car back it hesitates at least once a day, sometimes several times, sometimes several times in a row. It hesitates at about 20 miles per hour, when the gears are changing. Of course, it didn't hesitate when they checked it and their computer says "nothing's wrong". In addition, there was a tapping sound in the engine. Again "nothing's wrong". When I had my car smogged, the smog tech said "OMG, you have a problem with your valves." I took it to the dealer and they then admitted I had a problem with my valves (or lifters) and they fixed it. The hesitation continues. What could be causing the hesitation? They're not smart enough nor do they care enough to figure out what it is.
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So my car (2001 Civic) was having some issues that I needed to get worked out, so I was driving my mother's car for a few days. Within the first few minutes I knew there was something wrong, but I had so much going on that I haven't had a chance to get back to it for a while.
So she has a 2003 Toyota Camry with just 39k miles. Her work is about 2 miles away from home, so it basically gets driven there and to get groceries, and local clothes shopping. The car basically never sees the highway.
Hard to describe the sound, but it's like a loud rattling/vibration with every revolution of the front wheels. It sounds like it's coming from the front passenger side. Either the tire or the engine area. Here's a video of it on youtube. You can hear it pretty clearly under the road noise. It sounds kinda of like going over train tracks or something, and I'm only going about 45mph in the video. [URL] ....
So I don't know much about the car, but I am very familiar with my civic, so I checked out a few things. The tires appear to be in pretty good shape. About half the tread left with no unusual wear. I doubt it's the tires, cuz it really doesn't sound like tire noise. I checked the engine mounts and they appear to be in good order without cracks. Wouldn't expect an engine mount to go at 39k miles either, regardless of age. The car is garage kept.
Neither wheel has any side to side or up and down play like a bad ball joint, tie rod end, or wheel bearing would have. The steering wheel doesn't vibrate or anything. The sway bar endlinks appeared to be in good shape. I just changed the brake pads and rotors because of an unrelated issue. It didn't fix the problem.
A couple of things I will note: The belts are kind of dirty. It was really weird because half the belt is brown, the other half is black. It's basically split down the middle of one side. It's just dirt though, as I was able to rub some of it off with my fingers. The car was in a minor accident a couple of years back. It required me to replace the bumper and the passenger side headlight.
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My wife has a 04 chevy trailblazer ltd with 4wd. I have a couple of questions "service 4wd" comes on seems stuck in 4wd has moaning noise over 20mph moaning goes away when turning has grinding noise coming from front and sometimes a clanking noise that doesn't sound like something heavy but not very light either...
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I am slowly coming up on my 3 year anniversary with my Santa Fe 2007 3.3 AWD transmission , and after 50,000 trouble free miles I've encountered a problem.
It started this summer when I was towing my trailer on about a 300 mile journey. It sounded like a high pitched humming or whirling from the dashboard, while decelerating. It would stop at around 15 MPH. You cannot hear it while cruising. After days of head scratching I determined that the noise is coming from the transmission. It comes from the output side, as it shifts through all the gears smoothly, however it makes the sound with the engine off while coasting with the transmission in neutral too.
I noticed the transmission fluid was slightly burnt. As I am student, the problem was solved by turning up the radio, and as the car shifts great no thought was given.
During Christmas break I drove the car out to the west coast and about 400 miles into the journey the whining really got loud and frankly freaked me out. The car now sounds like little aircraft jet engines whinding down when you decelerate. OK its not as loud but when you're 400 miles into a 1600 mile trip you tend to get panicky about such things.
The car made it back fine. It still shifts great except for the whiney turbine noises that disappear below 15mph. I've got transmission fluid so I will start today by doing a couple drain and fills, but I suspect that since I've been a bit too lackadaisical about the problem that will not be sufficient.
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I drive a 2004 Santa Fe GLS with the 3.5L. The car has a seldom jerk when at a stop after decelerating, and occasionally it feels like the driveline is binding when backing out of the driveway in a turn. The symptoms are consistent with TSB 04-40-003 (attached). As the TSB directs, I have acquired a 4WD Electronic Control Module (ECM) with the updated design.
The TSB suggests I can just replace the module and expect everything to work. However, I have found information that I should use GDS to reset the transmission adaptive learning. I have also seen mentions of engaging a special setting in GDS if my car has an immobilizer. Obviously, I don't have GDS. Is there anything I need to know or is it really just plug-and-play?
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I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC engine. It bogs down and won't go over 20 MPH. I'm showing codes P1405 and P1151. Would either of these codes cause that issue? I'm not even sure how to start diagnosing this.
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Every time I exceed 20 MPH, my MFD chimes at me and causes a warning to flash on the screen. The only way to get rid of the warning is to either slow down to under 20 or hit the "OK" button on my steering wheel. This becomes problematic when I am trying to follow the directions given by my nav system.
I turned off the "speed warning" feature that is under the "winter tires" section of the config menu. This didn't affect it. How do I turn this thing off??
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Ok, this is something I have been battling with for some time now. Recently the problem has gotten rather bad.
I have an 01 Honda Civic EX automatic that I have been babying to get it to run somewhat smoothly, but with the seasonal temperature change it has gotten worse. The car does not want to shift from 1st to 2nd and will only do it once I reach 20mph, this was normal for about 6 months. Now the car will not shift when trying to move from a stop. My thinking is that it has not downshifted into first. I had the transmission rebuilt 2 years ago. There is a slow transmission leak but I have kept it topped off. Sometimes it will not shift from 3rd to 4th... this is new.
My thought is that the shift solenoids are worn out and need replacing.I do have random misfires, but I think that is a separate issue.
Also, it has almost no problem when driving from a cold start. It gets worse the more you drive or after the engine has reached running temp.
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Had to get a state inspection this month, and originally failed due to front right outer tie rod and both control arm bushings -- i bit the bullet and had the shop do this work for me, since I am going on vacation this week and i plan on using my car.
Anyhow, got the car back, and now i can hear a light clicking or tapping noise, but i can only really hear it when i put the window down, or if im driving by one of those concrete median dividers. Its as if someone is taking the metal tip of a screwdriver amd tapping it against a hollow metal bowl -- it makes a clicking noise, not a clunking or whirring noise...
I can only hear it when i hit 20mph; any less and i cant hear the clicks. At 20mph, its a slow, faint click that seems to be closely related to the wheel spinning. At 40mph, i can hear it is much faster, but just barely louder. I hear it best at abouf 25-30 mph, before road noises begin to over power the clicks.
Turning does not seem to affect the clicking, nor does braking. Its just constant -- if the wheel is spinning over 20mph, its clicking. Whether i coast or accelerate does not matter. I checked for rocks/nails in my treads, and with the exception of quite a few tiny rocks (which i took out), there doesn't seem to be anything remarkable. I checked my CV boots, and i cant find any signs of tearing or leaking grease...
If it is my CV Joint, wouldnt the mechanic that did my inspection, who caught my tie rod and control a bushings, and who did my alignment -- wouldnt he have also noticed something odd about my CV Joint, if something is indeed wrong?
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2000 ranger 2.5 245000 miles. code po171 and idle problem has come back. Replace ICV, EGR, MAF, PVC, check fuel pres, air cleaner, plugs, wires, O2, check for vac leaks, Intermittently coasting at 20mph out of gear (stick shift) engine revs to 2500 rpm and holds until i brake to a stop then it idles down. So I disconnect the ICV and it runs perfect. (its a new ICV) something is telling the ICV to open up. a month ago it did the same thing when i replaced the EGR the idle problem cleared up so I thought that was it.
There is a relationship between the truck speed and the engine speed but how does the engine speed know the truck is moving when its out of gear. It work perfect for a month all of a sudden it starts this problem again. I am thinking of taking it to the ford dealer for a diagnostic test but I don't know how specific they can get on whats wrong I don't what to them to just say "oh you have a vac leak" . . . I know a 171 could be vac leak but the problem is so dramatic and off again on again it seems more like a part problem then a vac hose is either leaking or not.
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Quick description: every part of any acceleration in any gear is completely normal. My only problem is when I decelerate downhill in 1st gear to a stop I get a whining sound up front that is choppy and sounds like it is coming from the center of the car, like transmission, ???
I am at 85k and replaced my transmission oil and rear diff. w. Amsoil 75w90 at 60k miles.
Some of the old posts question why I would be engine braking in 1st gear. It is because I have to "coast" out of a 6 floor parking garage. I never noticed the trouble at all because I am usually coasting in 2nd gear or neutral, but someone in front of me was extremely slow so I stopped and went to 1st gear then heard the noise. Like I mentioned, it only happens downhill (not under load).
Sound = "rum rum rum rum..." decreasing with speed as the car comes to a stop.
It's not a CV or wheel bearing because it only does it in 1st..
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All my turn and hazard signals work normally when engaged but when it snaps back into the off position the turn signal (sound only) keeps going rapidly. It goes on and off randomly. It's the sound in the dash only. What it is? I can replace it myself I just need to figure out what it is.
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I'm getting a vibration through the floorboards when I take my foot off the gas at high speeds. It has a low-pitched (like a subwoofer) hum to it. It's amplified when I go over dips and the suspension compresses, but doesn't exist when the car is in neutral.
(2009 LS, AWD, 120k miles, stock tires/wheels)
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I am the proud owner of a 2010 AWD Santa Fe with 1,600 miles. Over the weekend, I noticed a weird "humming" noise coming from somewhere in the vehicle (it sounds like possibly from the passenger side and from the interior of the vehicle). I only hear the noise when I accelerate. When I brake, the noise stops, and then picks up again when I hit the gas pedal.
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Last Saturday and today, I drove the car to run some errands. When hot, I turned it off for 5 to 10 minutes. Then it wouldn't start, the starter was cranking strong but the engine didn't start. I tried for 15 minutes with the same result.
Then, I waited for the engine to cool for an hour, it started fine. Both times the temperature outside was around -25 Celsius.
The dealer says he can't do anything if can't replicate the problem. The car is Santa Fe V6 FWD 2011 with 44 000 km.
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I have a 2009 Sante Fe Sport 3.3; that recently just started locking itself. The way i knew was because the horn kept going off as if we were pushing the lock button on the keyfob a bunch of times. Well the keyfob wasn't being pushed and the only way I could get it to stop beeping was to hold the unlock button on it. I thought it was the battery dying on the keyfob but I took it out and the car continued to beep. We are taking it in to the service department tomorrow. The only was I can stop the madness is if I have the door partially open, to break the circuit (I would imagine)
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When accelerating from a dead stop I can feel a small bump/jolt coming from the rear. It only happens when you move from a dead stop. Its not a shift. Its more noticeable this week.
If I lock the AWD it does not do it. But when I turn off the AWD lock (at 20 -30 kms/hr) I can feel the bump - as if the driveshaft is disengaging.
Its a 2010 3.5 V6 AWD. 115,000 kms on the odometer. I had the viscous coupler replaced last Oct under warranty. I'm taking it in for an oil change and brake job next week.
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I am having an issue with the turn signals on my 2010 Santa Fe. When changing lanes to the right and moving the turn signal lever up slightly, the turn signals activate normally. However, when releasing the lever, the signal lights stop flashing (as they should), but the flasher clicks at a rapid rate and won't stop. I have to jiggle the turn signal lever to get it to stop clicking. I have checked all lights and the bulbs are fine.
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Ever since installing my Joe Z axle back exhaust.I get a popping sound when coming to a stop, especially if decelerating harder. I know this type of thing happens to bikes when you don't get them tuned after but I haven't read anything about Tuning the Lex. Is this normal? Are other guys with the aftermarket exhaust and intake having this same sound at times?
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Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
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