Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Car Won't Start When Hot After A 5 Minute Stop
Feb 15, 2016
Last Saturday and today, I drove the car to run some errands. When hot, I turned it off for 5 to 10 minutes. Then it wouldn't start, the starter was cranking strong but the engine didn't start. I tried for 15 minutes with the same result.
Then, I waited for the engine to cool for an hour, it started fine. Both times the temperature outside was around -25 Celsius.
The dealer says he can't do anything if can't replicate the problem. The car is Santa Fe V6 FWD 2011 with 44 000 km.
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Last week a warning light appeared on screen. It flickered on and off for a minute, and I think it was going on more when I was cornering. Then it stayed on and has been on ever since.
I did a search and read the post about the clock spring recall. But it is not a recall in the UK. I'm in the UK where they sold this model from 2006. I guess I'm going to have to take it to the dealer and get them to read the codes.
Is there anything simple I can check myself first, like for a lose connection under the seats of anything like that?
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Started hearing a weird humming noise (not the usual hyundai hum in the front passenger side) coming from the front when decelerating from approximately 20mph down to a stop or from a stop up to 20mph. Went to a shop and ruled out wheel bearings, brakes, rotation, alignment, etc. Noise stopped.
Couple weeks later noticed physical resistance and upon accelerating to about 40mph it felt like I had a flat tire. That bumping, vibrating, shuddering feeling. No flat tire. Physical resistance, not power. Came and went in severity depending on terrain and speed. Brought it to a 2nd shop because the first was closed. The guy found codes that indicated the anti-lock brake system had failed. Said it should be covered under warranty and I should go to dealer.
Dealer replaced a brake switch (which has been recalled and was replaced before) and an inhibitor switch. They assessed the brakes too.
Car drives fine for a week and suddenly the brakes are screeching and we can't reverse out of a parking spot like the car is stuck on a snow mound but isnt. Rock it- in and out of forward and reverse to get out. We test it putting it in reverse again and car slams to a stop. When the car was pulled up on the tow truck we noticed only the rear driver tire didn't spin-locked up.
Dealer says no computer codes and that they just had to "adjust" the brake switch they had replaced. Drove home fine. Next day and for these next few days-something is still wrong. Physical resistance, not power. Cracking/popping noises when braking.
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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I have a 2009 Sante Fe Sport 3.3; that recently just started locking itself. The way i knew was because the horn kept going off as if we were pushing the lock button on the keyfob a bunch of times. Well the keyfob wasn't being pushed and the only way I could get it to stop beeping was to hold the unlock button on it. I thought it was the battery dying on the keyfob but I took it out and the car continued to beep. We are taking it in to the service department tomorrow. The only was I can stop the madness is if I have the door partially open, to break the circuit (I would imagine)
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When accelerating from a dead stop I can feel a small bump/jolt coming from the rear. It only happens when you move from a dead stop. Its not a shift. Its more noticeable this week.
If I lock the AWD it does not do it. But when I turn off the AWD lock (at 20 -30 kms/hr) I can feel the bump - as if the driveshaft is disengaging.
Its a 2010 3.5 V6 AWD. 115,000 kms on the odometer. I had the viscous coupler replaced last Oct under warranty. I'm taking it in for an oil change and brake job next week.
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All my turn and hazard signals work normally when engaged but when it snaps back into the off position the turn signal (sound only) keeps going rapidly. It goes on and off randomly. It's the sound in the dash only. What it is? I can replace it myself I just need to figure out what it is.
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I am having an issue with the turn signals on my 2010 Santa Fe. When changing lanes to the right and moving the turn signal lever up slightly, the turn signals activate normally. However, when releasing the lever, the signal lights stop flashing (as they should), but the flasher clicks at a rapid rate and won't stop. I have to jiggle the turn signal lever to get it to stop clicking. I have checked all lights and the bulbs are fine.
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Car starts but dies after it runs less than a minute. Put new gas pump and filter and didn't work. What else can I check?
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Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
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I have a santa fe from the year 2008 and recently i had a trip where i would get tons of white smoke every time the car was at idle at the stop light. upon inspection, i saw that the coolant level was below the low line so i had it topped up and the problem disappeared. Everything was fine until today when the problem occurred so i checked the coolant level on the side of the road but the coolant level was fine and still is upon inspection when the car was cooled off. After i stopped to check the coolant level and restarting the car, the smoke was gone and did not appear again. I checked the internet for solutions and some suggest blown head gasket but many of the symptoms do not make sense in my case since the engine never overheats and the coolant level hasn't gone down in the past week.
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We have a 2012 Santa Fe Limited V6 AWD. Currently it has 17,400 miles on it. It's my wife's daily driver and has been a great vehicle. Last week while she was coming out of Target and slowing down for a stop sign she felt a "shudder" as it downshifted from 2nd to 1st. Then as she was coming up to a stop light it did it again. So, she came home and told me about it.
On the highway coming home she said it was perfectly fine but stopping at the stop sign on the off ramp it did the shudder. And so I took it out for a test drive to go get the mail. I noticed that it would shudder on the 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts. On the up-shifts it was perfectly fine. Then, I noticed as I was rolling forward at about 1-2 mph waiting for someone to cross the street the car was rolling like one of it's wheels or axles was bent. Any faster than that and you can't feel it and again at highway speeds you can't feel it at all. It's glass smooth.
Soooo, we bring it in to the dealer and they say we bent the front drivers side axle shaft. WHAT!? How in the world would we have bent that? They said we probably hit a big pot hole but it's under warranty and that they will have to order the part and to bring it back the next week. We drive it for another week and the shudder is getting worse and at this point I'm pretty sure the trans is toast. But still, on the highway it's perfectly fine.
We bring it back in to have the axle shaft replaced and they say it will be about 2 hours. And so we go on our merry way trying to kill some time. About 1.5 hours later we get a call asking us to come back in because they need to get us a loaner.
Apparently as the tech was trying to spin the drive-shaft to line up the splines in the trans with the axle shaft he couldn't turn the drive shaft even though it was in neutral. There was a spot in the rotation of the transmission and drive-shaft where it would spin freely like it should and then it would hit that spot and was almost "un-turnable". They think that is what bent the axle shaft.
So, they are going to tear apart the transmission and transfer case to find out what the problem is but most likely going to have to end up replacing one of them anyway.
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I need locating the locking clips that hold the high mounted stop light assembly in place. Are there any diagrams?
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My husband I purchased a 2012 Subaru Outback May 2012, we notice a hesitation when we first drove it and couple weeks later it started stalling out, now it stalls about every other day, we have noticed that ours is after a 15 to 20 minute stop and go traffic and then when your able to drive at normal speeds without stopping, and then stop it stalls out, we have rough idle and transmission acts like it is trying to shift but I know this isnt possible with a CVT transmission.
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I have 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe......approx 10K miles......no major issues to date
Drove my son to school this morning and pulled into a parking spot.....the shifter would not move into PARK......it was stuck....would only go into NEUTRAL and DRIVE....the vehicle was idling
I was a little panicked, but put on the parking brake and called the dealership on the cell.....they told me to pop the cover on the switch near the shifter and and depress the reset button (needed a flat head screw driver).......it took about four tries and then finally worked.....
I shut the vehicle off, restarted it and tried to put the car into REVERSE...to back out of the parking spot......shifter was stuck again.....had to depress the reset button......
Immediately took the car to the dealership where it was DIAGNOSED with a faulty "stop lamp switch".......causing the shifter to stick and the brake lights not to work... this was a recall item for the 2007 Santa Fe, but not the 2008 (that I'm aware of)
Dealership replaced the stop lamp switch and had me in and out in a hour.......but they did not initially give me a write up......i told them this was a very dangerous situation that had just occurred and I wanted a write up.....they happily complied....
So keep a flat head screw driver (glove compartment) in the car and have your dealership take a look at the stop lamp switch, on your next visit, even though it was only recalled on the 2007.......I will also be contacting HYUNDAI directly...
ETA: ESC light was illuminated when I was trying to get the vehicle into PARK from DRIVE......also contacted HYUNDAI and gave them a description of the incident and now have a case number.
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I have really taken care of this 2011 SF Limited with the 3.5 V6 but it has always seemed to idle rough at a red light/stop sign while in drive. Is this common for all the 3.5 V6 engines? I run a fuel cleaner through it before every syn oil change and also use top tier gas. It drives nice but like I said, at a stop in drive it seems to run rough at around 500-550 rpm's.
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How to replace the bulbs of the rear high mount stop lamp on a 2009 Santa Fe?
I got the bulbs already, located the 2 nuts on the inside directly behind the brake light, but when I remove them, the assembly won't pop out.
I know the manual says they recommend getting these particular bulbs replaced at an authorized Hyundai dealer, but since I already bought the bulbs, I'd like to try and do it myself if at all possible.
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It seems to have difficulty starting during stop and go like on deliveries. Also has problems after refueling. Is this caused by a faulty purge valve? If so where is it located?
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I have a 2001 santafe with a 4 cyl The code 102 was up so I replaced the mass air flow censer . I go on a test drive and the light stays off , but when I go to re start it again the light come on and stays on, with the same code. The only strange thing is the idle will raise for a min then drop down to almost a stall.
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I have a 2010 Santa fe that will sometimes not start when using the key. The starter turns just fine but the engine won't fire up. However, with the remote starter it will always start.
The vehicle is under warranty for a few more weeks but the mechanic couldn't diagnose anything because it started just fine in the shop.
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What's up Lexus enthusiasts and fellow owners I own a 08 LS. Today I noticed that my driver side headlight goes out , I turn it off and turned it back on and it's good to go but after a minute it turns off. This could be a bad ballast . How to change a ballast or headlight bulb in an LS before? Is there a link that I can go to and check it out ? Or this is one of those that the bumper has to come off .
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