Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Radiator Fan Stays On After Car Shut Off
Mar 22, 2014
2011 Santa Fe with a problem with the fan. Believe it's the radiator fan. First time it happened, wife shut off car and fan was still on. Started it back up and shut it off a couple of times and it stayed off. That was over a year ago. Then today, same thing except she didn't notice it until she came back out to car and the battery was totally dead. Got a boost and as soon as they hooked up the leads from good battery the fan was on. I saw someone in a thread about a 2006 Sonata (?) doing this kind of thing.
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Believe an engine temperature sensor is bad. I took it in to get a code read, and they said it could be either temp sensor or fan switch, but didn't know which one without newer software.
Codes are
19537 - Engine Temperate too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal
I've checked the fuse legend to see if there is a fuse I can pull, but none of them marked fan seem to kill it after the car is off, so that I can save some battery power.
I believe that I have narrowed it down to the engine coolant temperature sensor. What is the level of job this is to replace? From a parts location manual, it looks like it is in the Thermostat housing, but I'm not sure where that is.
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I drive a 2010 Santa Fe and have had this issue for a couple of months. After driving for approximately 20 minutes my ESC indicator light comes on and stays on. I'm not braking at the time or doing anything other than driving in a straight line on a clear road at about 80 km/hr. Drives fine for the rest of the trip even with the indicator on. After I shut the car off and then restart the indicator is off. Later in the day when I drive for another 20 minutes or so the indicator comes on again and stays on until I shut the car off and restart.
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Sometimes my clutch pedal stays down on the floor. I can bring it back alive after a few pumps. I assume one of the oil cylinders died. Looking for a schematic of where it s located?
A few days before I felt a metal scraping sound when I pushed the clutch pedal down. The scraping resistance happened when the pedal was aprox. 2-3 cm's from the floorboard. It scratched like 15 to 20 times and then went away. Now the clutch pedal died on me.
Fluids are checked and on level. 2009 2.2 CRDI diesel with 45.000km's ...
The dealer says it can be one of the 2 cylinders but since it's not happening all the time he suggest bringing it in and change them all.
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My 07 Santa Fe fuel gauge doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be??
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5 6, FWD, 54k miles, that has been having the check engine light go on and off. Recently with in the pass month and a half the dealership has perform the recall adjustment, changed the manifold intake assy, changed the ECM with all visits rendered a P200A code. After changing the manifold assy, check engine light was off and fuel gage was at a 1/4 tank. Stop by a gas station and filled up and the light comes on. Remove gas cap after turning off engine and secured gas cap as directed on the cap of one click and light stays on. Turning into the dealership for the 4th time.
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It happened while I was putting back the radiator drain plug. The head of the drain plug broke. I used the easy out tool to extract the screw. I managed to make a hole in the screw but was not able to pull it out. The drain plug got spread on the radiator thread instead. I tried to pull it with a thin screwdriver. I managed to broke half of it and take the small pieces out. Unfortunately, when it was almost out, it jumped up inside the radiator...
I have unsuccessfully tried a vacuum to suck it out. What are my option at this point? Could I just leave it there or I must take it out somehow?
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Yesterday I changed battery after that its seems malfunction indicator lamp stays on, i checked with hyundai service center they told to reset the program then diagnose the problem, then only come to know the issue or not issue they asked 20rial, i m wondering just changed the battery got some issue.
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Today I had to replace spare tire and although i closed well the tailgate, lamp never turned off, as always (amber light on instrument cluster). I had to disconnect battery to avoid draining it. Can it really drain with only inbst cluster turned on permanently. Where is the switch of this light? Could not find it?
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Recently with sunny days, 25-30 degrees celsius, my late 06' CRDI Santa Fe starts to shut off while in the traffic jam. After engine restart car runs fine while idling but after i put in Drive (its a 5 speed AT) it shuts off again. After 2-3 restarts i may able to pull my car aside the road and let it cool. One other thing i have noticed is the temperature gauge. The needle is sitting slightly under middle mark and my torque app shows 114-115 degrees celsius ? It is pretty high dont you think ? Sometimes its over the middle bar and then my OBD torque app shows 120 degrees. I would exclude Crankshaft position sensor, because car restarts just fine, if it was CPS then it should not start for a while?
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I was headed down the highway in my 2007 Santa Fe last night. All of the sudden, I lost engine power. I pushed the gas peddle and nothing. We coasted down to a stop on the side of the road. I attempted to restart, all it did was turn over. I noticed the OIL light was on, so I got out and double checked my oil level. Right up to the full mark. Probably about a year ago, I had a check - engine light. I have a code that indicates that my gas level sender has failed, so my gas gauge does not work. I am sure you are saying.....he just ran out of gas. Well, not the case. I filled up the day before, and figured I had another 100 miles left on this tank.
Over 171000 miles on it and I have no intention of giving it up soon.
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe, I closed my ashtray the other day and now it won't open!!! It has change in it and I expect a coin has jammed it. The door will push in a little just like it normally would to open it but it won't pop open.
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2012 Santa Fe SE and the battery went completely, utterly dead. Reason unknown but that's not the issue for now. The battery was purchased new.
Also, I had a Viper 4204 remote starter installed after I got the car, April 2014. I use the keyfob that came with the Viper to open the doors and start the car as needed.
Trying to get a jump start but as soon as I connect the cables the alarm goes off and the car won't start. Called the place where I had the remote start put in and he suggested two things. Use the original Hyundai keyfob and press the unlock button to stop the alarm. Or put the key in the ignition turned to the ON position BEFORE connecting the cable to the battery. Tried both, neither worked. Also tried just holding down the kill switch under the hood. But that didn't work either.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe 2,2 CRDi that recently started to behave bad. When cold it starts but runs only for a few seconds before it dies. The engine seems to shut off without any notice. I am able to start the car again straight away, but the same thing happens.
If I try to push the throttle I might be able to keep it running for a longer while, and it seems to improve as the engine gets warmer, but it still dies after a while. (Some minutes.) When running, the engine feels kind of rough (hard) and not a smooth as its supposed to be.
I have cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced all the injectors. I also checked the diesel filter for water and flow, but didn't replaced as it was changed this summer.
The car is a no runner as it is now, since the uncontrolled shutdown of the engine makes it danger to use in the traffic.
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I picked up a used 99 Passat with 79000 miles. I just changed the oil and found the pan pretty well sludged up - typical from what I read on the forum. I noticed the coolant looked pretty diluted - so I drained and filled with 50/50 mix. After starting I felt for the upper and lower hoses heating up and the lower one never did. I guess I should have tested this out before draining and refilling - also typical. Question is - is this a thermostat issue? My Haynes manual says if the top hose becomes hot the thermostat is operational. Heater has plenty of heat, temp gauge stays pegged at 190 degrees top dead center of the gauge.
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Today i drove 45 mins to the mall without incident. When i went to leave i noticed after starting the car my radiator fan came on and wouldn't shut off. Its 20 degrees (F) outside. Driving home there was a slight skip a few times going through the rev range while shifting. Later on today when starting the car it just cranked and didnt start until i put my foot on the gas peddle. Its done this everytime now since. (5 or 6 start cycles). A day ago i removed the stock air box and put on a cone filter, i had no issues until today. (24 hrs later) the car has 82k miles. Plugs were last done around 20k if thats relevant.
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I started my car and noticed that something under the hood was very loud. It sounded as if there was a large fan left on high and I was right. The passenger side radiator fan doesn't come on. The drivers side does though and yet there is no overheating! Ive taken short 15 mile trips here and there but the temperature gauge stays right in the middle. If i give this radiator fan motor a good whack with a screw driver, it comes right on. What it could be? Does it need a motor replacement? Could it actually be the relay if when I give it a whack, it comes on?
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I'll provide as much info as possible concerning an all too common problem with these cars. The radiator (passenger side) fan will run for a few seconds when the AC is turned on, then it will shut off. It does not come on when the car is up to temperature. The AC condenser (driver's side) fan runs normally. Steps I have taken so far are as follows:
A. Replaced the radiator fan -- no joy.
B. Replaced the coolant temperature sensor -- no joy.
C. Replaced the thermostat -- no joy.
Coolant level is normal and there are no leaks in the system. The temperature gauge however, never rises above cold.
My questions are:
1. What are the next step(s) to solving the radiator fan problem?
2. Is there a separate sensor for the temp gauge, other than the one in the thermostat housing and if so, where is it located?
3. Since I live in AZ where it never gets very cold, I'd be perfectly fine with having the radiator fan run whenever the engine is running. Is there a way to wire it so it's always on with the ignition?
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I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander. About two months ago, I replaced (myself) the radiator fan because it had stopped working. I bought the new fan on the internet and it was fairly easy to install. It was a little louder than the original fan, but it worked great. Last week it suddenly became louder and stays on for a minute after I turn the car off. Is the fan defective? Should I return it? Should I ask my mechanic to test it? Or just ignore it?
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My son's 2001 Dodge Neon tends to run hot. The radiator fan comes on while the engine is running, but does not stay on when the engine is turned off, even if the temp indicator is in the range where the fan should be on. Wiring diagram looks like the fan control relay only works when the ignition is in ON or RUN, which would indicate that this is the way the electrical system is designed, but that seems weird...I thought the fan is supposed to operate even if the engine is turned off. We have already replace the thermostat.
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2004 Santa fe- air bag light stays on-
Any trouble shooting protocol to follow?
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