Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Struggles At Start Up
Dec 28, 2016
I've had a couple issues where the car struggles to start in the morning after a cold night. 2.0 ultimate, btw. It isn't a cranking issue, it just struggles to turn over. Both times its done it, it seemed like it took 2-3 seconds longer to start than it should of. Was right on the edge of turning over but wouldn't. My non professional opinion was that it seemed like it wasn't getting enough gas to turn over.
What could be the issue. I will not have time to take it in to be looked at as I'm starting a new job next week and don't get any time off. Unless it fails to start completely, I'll deal for now.
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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My 2002 Accent sometimes struggles to start. It is generally a great reliable car and has a great service history. About 8 months ago I notice that two or three times it wouldnt start on first or second turn of the key. I got a service and the problem disappeared until recently again. Every so often (once a week or so) it will struggle to start and I will have to wait a few seconds before trying again, where it does fire up.
This is not a battery problem as I put a new battery in it 2 days ago. The fuel pump noise when turning the key also comes on. Could this simply be that the Spark Plugs ned changing? It has driven 5,000 miles since it's last service.
By the way, when I say struggles to start, it will turn over absolutely normally, but it will not ignite and actually start the engine, or "fire" up.
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The car doesn't struggle to start at any other time just when fueling. I have a 2011 Accent and I am looking for the locations of the various components involved so I can test them to see where the problem is.
I know the purge valve is mounted on the rear of the intake manifold below the air hose. Now is the solenoid and the valve the same part? I see various diagrams pointing to the valve and labeling it solenoid. The other part is the EVAP canister. I know it's some place near the gas tank but not sure where and I can't find any diagrams online.
I am comfortable with minor repairs. I've replaced spark plugs and ignition coils and a purge valve before so would this repair be something I could do myself or would I be better off taking it to the dealership?
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After getting to about 1/4 tank, I fuel up and fill the tank but when I try to start the car, it cranks for a while and then finally starts. It will idle really low so I have to rev it until the engine starts getting gas at a steady pace.
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My 2009 Honda CRV struggles to start on very cold days. I need to hold the key and turn it longer than I would on most days. Is this something I should be concerned about or is it normal.
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Has happened several time recently. Turn the key and everything works but the car doesn't turn over, not a sound. After a couple tries it works fine. Starter or switch?
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I've turn the fog lamp switch on, but the fog lamp seems cant start or light up. what should i check 1st?
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I am trying to diagnose an issue with my 2003 F-250 6.0L PSD.
The first time I crank it everyday, it struggles to start. Beyond that, it seems to run fine and not have issues cranking throughout the day.
I've recently replaced both batteries, the FICM, the fuel filters and the FI wiring harness. What could be the issue?
The video shows exactly what I deal with every morning.
YouTube - 2003 F-250 Cold Start Issue ....
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When the temperature drops below -20 Celsius, I find the transmission shifts weird just after start up. It seems like it goes into second, then third normally, then abruptly drops back into second. I'm pushing very lightly on the gas pedal, so the drop down is weird. A couple times the nav was blank on start up.
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Any way to set the seat heaters to turn on when the car is remote started?
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We just swapped engines on a 2014 Santa Fe Sport but it won't start now. Old engine had 70k miles, new one has 25 k miles. Wondering if the swap could have tripped a fuel shutoff switch or something simple. Its not throwing any codes, but I think it has to run first before it would give a reading. Turns over but wont start. Previous engine ran but had internal lower engine problems and metal in the oil. There is plenty of spark but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel. We hear the fuel pump prime so we know that works.
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I had my dealership install a car starter when I purchased my 2014 Santa Fe a year and a half ago. I noticed that this blue flashing light constantly flashes up by the rearview mirror. It looks like an anti theft device which it isn't' and really bothers me especially at night because it lights up the whole dash. How to disable this and still keep the remote functional?
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I have a 2008 prius and can't get get more than 35 mpg. The battery is refurbished, I have done air flow sensor, throttle body, spark plugs and have good tires. I drive 120 miles a day and make 50 stops. I get better mpg on the highway. also, the engine doesn't seem to shut off all the time at a light and the battery is hardly ever in green. Also it seems like the engine struggles a lot, almost like there is an engine brake. I am losing faith. what is the point of this prius.
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Since I bought my car and driven it I noticed the acceleration noise and feel more and more. At slow speeds and rpms the engine sounds like its struggling to accelerate. It isn't smooth like a constant climb. Its a winding up acceleration. From a stop you can feel it shake the car up to 3000 rpms then it goes away. It idles somewhat rough and you can feel it throughout the cabin and the exhaust sounds putter in at idles instead of a steady drone. I suspect a fuel filter as of I have changed my oil, spark plugs, and air filter. Could it be a timing belt or something like that? It also has a very very small leak around the valve cover gasket bolts.
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I have a 2008 accent with about 95k miles on it. I recently took it in to have the oil changed and the mechanic suggested I get a tune up and said my spark plugs needed to be changed. I didn't opt in for the tune up that day and I'm now noticing more problems with the vehicle. At first the car struggled accelerating at about 35-45 mph, but once it reached above that speed it ran fine. More recently the car has really struggled accelerating after it had come to a stop. Today I came out to start the car and it took a couple tries to get it to kick over. Once the car was on I could rev it up but when I put it in gear it struggled to get to 10mph and that's with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the ground. I let it set and came back to it about an hour ago and added transmission fluid, because it was low. The car started a little better, it wasn't shaking as hard, but it still struggles accelerating and won't push pass 30mph. When parked I can rev it all the way up, when I take my foot off the gas the car does threaten to cut off, but it only has once. I'm not sure where to start.
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I have a 1995 Ford Thunderbird with the 4.6 V8. I have owned it since it was a year old, it now has 70,000 miles on it. A couple years ago it developed a problem while driving. Hard to explain, but seems like it is misfiring or there a fuel restriction somewhere. This shows up when i floor it, the transmission kicks down and the engine struggles to accelerate, you can feel when it clears up, the car shoots forward. It seems like if i smoothly step on the pedal it is better, but not always.
This problem is also noticeable when the revs are low, like just before the transmission shifts down, like when climbing a hill, you can feel a shudder, if i accelerate and the transmission shifts so the revs are higher the problem goes away. Also, shutting off the overdrive so the revs increase works too. It really feels like the engine to me, although it does not go as far as to backfire.
2 years ago i replaced the auto transmission and torque converter with a factory one direct from Ford.To diagnose what i think is an engine problem i have: replaced the fuel filter (wasn't dirty) removed the injectors and had them cleaned and tested (they were fine) checked the fuel pressure (fine) checked the vacuum (fine) removed the exhaust to look for cat blockages (nice and clean) replaced the plugs, wires, and coils checked that the timing was in spec, although i don't think there is a way to adjust it
The car has the early version of OBDII - it does not have any active errors.
The car starts and idles fine, cold or hot, and when it is not acting up, still has excellent power. It does sit inside all winter though.
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My car wont start properly. I have push button start & now the majority off the time the engine struggles to turn over. The starter motor is fine as it revs the engine to around 500 rpm when it toys to turn over but it seems like The engine isn't getting enough fuel or air & stutterers & hesitates. The weird thing is that once its started the car doesn't miss a beat. What it maybe? I have just replaced the sparkplugs, fuel filter & air fitter as part of my 60,000 service I have the car booked into my local dealership but they cant get me in for 2 weeks. I'm a little worried but its probably something small.
I have been lucky enough to catch the car doing it on video & here are 3 links to my youtube videos. On 2 of the videos the fuel is low, however, there is still 10 litres in the tank & this has also been happening at various fuel heels & out door temps.
VID 20130626 140221 - YouTube
VID 20130626 144651 - YouTube
VID 20130626 154933 - YouTube
I have checked a few things out but I cannot diagnose the problem. I believe the first 2 videos you will notice the car shaking a fair bit. Pay close attention to the car revs when starting.
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Left rear window goes down normally but struggles to go up without support. Don't detect any binding and it is going straight. Would it likely be the motor or regulator.
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I just recently bought a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GT V6 four door. After buying the car realized the dash and taillights were not working. I brought it back to the lot and they fixed the tail lights and dash lights. They said the box was just sitting on the frame and was shorting out wires but now was fixed.
Ever since this was fixed when I run the AC or the heat or defrost the car starts to struggle or jerk. Sometimes the Airbag light or the low oil level light will come on (the oil level is fine) and sometimes the gas gauge will drop a little, lastly it will sometimes stall when slowing down when pulling into a parking lot.
When I do NOT run the AC or heat the car seems to run and drive pretty smoothly in general. Yet sometimes I do get an air bag light come on or a little jerk when I slow down at the light or in a parking lot but nothing like when running the AC.
The mechanic at the car lot is stumped at what could be causing this. I think I need to find a new mechanic. What would be causing this? A sensor? The car drove fine until the dash and taillights were fixed.
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I have a 1996 GMC Sonoma extended cab, 2.2l engine (not vortec) purchased in the United States. I’m having trouble setting the timing correctly.
I recently replaced the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and chain, and after several attempts to set the timing, the engine still shakes badly and struggles to run smoothly, especially at idle. (It did not do this before the repair.) My code reader picks up the following codes: P0106, P0108. It seems to me that the timing is off despite my best efforts.
I’m going to try and attach a picture of the timing chain and sprockets as they’re currently set because the camshaft timing mark is strange on this vehicle and I’m not sure if it’s lined up correctly. Does it looks right? (Red mark on cam sprocket made by me; timing mark is supposedly the circular hole above that tooth.)
I did several other repairs at the same time that I did the timing. I have gone back over as much of these as possible and I don’t think I did anything wrong. As cars go I’m strictly an amateur but I work as a small engine mechanic so I have some experience with the way things feel when they’re done wrong. Nevertheless, if the timing is right, maybe I botched one of these?
The simultaneous repairs:
Removed head
Replaced hydraulic lifters
Cleaned carbon off valves
Checked pushrod straightness
Changed gaskets (several)
Replaced oil pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, & thermostat
Replaced coolant hoses
I did all this because I hit the 150,000-mile mark and I want to keep it running for another 150,000.
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