Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Intermittent Vibration For A Few Seconds


Jun 10, 2015

After a couple thousand miles I have this intermittent vibration in what feels like the rear end being I can't feel anything in the wheel. It vibrates for a few seconds, goes away. Then vibrates for a few seconds and goes away. But even that timing isn't consistent. It could be good for a minute, then go back to every 3 seconds.

I'm way too busy to bring the car in so 2k later during the first oil change, I get the typical "dealer can't replicate". I was expecting it after I told them I do 75-80mph and they replied with "Well we can't drive that fast".

They make another appointment to have it in so they can start it cold (keep in mind I already told them it doesn't matter if it's cold as they tried to spew some BS about how the tires might have developed a flat spot overnight...) and I get a 2.0 Sport to use for the day and it does the same thing!

For anyone asking if it's the roads, it's not. My commute is 45 miles, 40 miles on the freeway at 75-80mph and half of that is on brand new concrete. I know, the new concrete could be bad but my 2011 GLS didn't do it! My wife's 2003 Saturn Ion 1 doesn't do it. My 2005 Impala didn't do it! So here I sit with a brand new Sonata that I love except for this vibration and I can't find anything online.

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Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: HIDs Flickering For About 5 To 15 Seconds Then Stop

Both of my bulbs flicker, intermittently. They will flicker, most times not at the same time as one another, for about 5 to 15 seconds then stop. I have not yet been able to detect a pattern. The battery is fully powered and the resistors are not throwing a code so I assume they are working (I installed them to eliminate an error code and stabilize the voltage). The capacitors (or "error eliminators") I have installed do not seem to do anything.

This problem just started recently too, they never used to flicker at all. The only problem I had is I used to get a bulb out warning but like I said I got rid of that by adding resistors. The bulbs are only 5 months old.

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Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Transmission Pausing A Few Seconds Before Going Into Gear

Been noticing in my 2016 Sport that there seems to be a lot of "play" in the transmission. Don't really know a better word for it. When I reverse out of my garage and put the car in drive, the car rolls back a bit. Like it's pausing a few seconds before going into gear. Don't want to take it back to the dealer a look a fool because it's "normal".

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2015 - Bad Intermittent Vibration While Idling?

My CC 2015 6.2 has a pretty annoying vibration when stopped at red lights, etc. isn't always there but is pretty frequent. Dealer says it is normal for the truck. I disagree. I am not sure how bad it was vibrating when the dealer had it.

Think of having a subwoofer in your truck and how it will rattle the doors,etc. seems to be behind the driver seat, coming from underneath. All stock truck.

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Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: 2016 - Trunk Automatically Open After X Seconds If Key Fob Is Present

I went from 2014 Sonata Limited to 2016 Sonata limited. Have had the 2016 for a day now. On balance I like the changes with one exception. On the 2014 if I had Keyfob in pocket there was button underneath trunk lip I could press to open trunk. On 2016 that button is gone. Trunk is to automatically open after x seconds if Keyfob is present.

The problem is the trunk will automatically open as I walk past trunk to enter driver door. Then sometimes if I want to open trunk it never opens when I am standing next to it. I think they thought this was a cool upgrade but it is worse. I may have to turn that feature off.

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Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Excessive Vibration At Idle

I bought 2015 Sonata SE, it was produced in April of 2015. It drives nice and overall its OK but it has an excessive vibration that gives me a headache. When stopped at light/traffic with AC on it feels as if I was sitting in a vibrating massage chair. The steering wheel and seat vibrates. When I shut off AC it vibrates less but still seems to be vibrating too much. I know that 4 cylinder will vibrate some but I did not expect getting a massage while sitting in the car. It does not vibrate while driving, just in idle.

I am so unhappy with it that I am ready to trade cars with my DH who drives 10 year old Accord with manual transmission that vibrates less than my brand new car. What do I do? I will be taking it to the dealer but would like to go prepared and educated. I did see some posts about ECU and TSU updates (whatever that means) but it seems that it applied to cars manufactured in 2014?

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Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Cabin Vibration At Highway Speeds

So about 5 months ago I started feeling vibrations in my seat and steering wheel. I got my tires road force balanced and it solved the issue. I just got back from a weeks long vacation in Maine. Before I left I had the tires road force balanced again to ensure a smooth ride up. I left some shaking in my seat so I wanted to get it ironed out.

While driving up my seat and the entire cabin shook when I exceeded 70 MPH, it got worse and worse the faster I went. The steering wheel didn't shake at all. I figured the tech balancing the tires did a bad job so I visited the BJ's in Portland. They re-balanced all my tires, I was present when the job was being done and noticed they were all out of balance.

The BJ's tech said it look like the shop that did the balancing over balanced each wheel (too much weight on each wheel). As soon as I hit the highway the same thing happened, shaking above 70MPH. At this point I determined it was probably a bent wheel. I visited a local wheel repair shop, they checked out both my rear wheels, since the steering wheel wasn't shaking I didn't bother checking the front ones.

It turns out both rear wheels are ever so slightly bent, they attempted the straighten out the more bent one. They tech repairing the wheel said he was surprised I even felt anything at all. So I had my hopes up that the problem would be fixed but as soon as I hit the road the same shaking returned. At this point, what's wrong with my car. I'm thinking of buying 4 new wheels, the car came from the factory with low profile 18 inch wheels which have been a curse.

A few more details about my car:

Toyo Proxes 4 Plus - Ultra high performance tires (Maybe contribute to harsh ride?) 20K miles on them

Installed thicker 20mm rear sway bar 6 months ago (But I never had shaking until now)

Installed front tower strut bar 6 months ago.

Total mileage 32K

I have hit lots of pot holes the past 2 winters lost 2 OEM tires and bent 1 wheel last year which was repaired.

Also I can't drive through it, the shaking doesn't stop with more speed it only gets worse. And the back end has started to feel squirrely over bumps.

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Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Hard Braking Causing Engine Vibration / Buzz

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Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Driver Side Door Trim Vibration On Bumpy Roads

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Intermittent Loss Of All Electrical For A Few Seconds

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He said the lights(all electrics) will go out intermittently. Head lights, turn signals, radio, interior lights. He says the car runs fine while the electronics are out (except no headlights). Usually only happens for a few seconds but occasionally will last minutes. Longest it has happened is 10 minutes and the lights all come back on by themselves.

What could cause this and what needs to be done for fixing? He is a outboard mechanic and has kept the car up great, but he doesn't like to mess with wiring/electrics. I'm sure he has checked the basics.

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Grand AM :: Intermittent Vibration When Going On The Highway

Since a while I'm getting a vibration.... when going on the highway, the vibration is NOT there initially. Then it gradually get stronger and stronger as distance goes on, but same speed.

Hitting the brakes make the pedal vibrate sometime, but fade out. then the vibration is gone for a bit, and come back slowly.

Note that this is at a constant 100km/h, not increasing speed. I ruled out the wheel balance due to the fact that it's not constant. Everything seems to be tight, couln't feel any movement in anything.

Brake on the left side is way hotter than the right side, so I do suspect that the right side do not work correctly.

Sometime the wheel also kick on the left a bit while braking. I do not know if it's 2 problems or a single one. At last wheel swap, the calipers seemed to slide correctly.

Also, I think I have air in the brake line, as the pedal is too smooshy for my taste, and I can't seems to be able to make the abs kick in (but good tires, so might be the reason?)

Note: top plates on the front suspension seems to have a bit of play, but I believe it have no effect on this issue.

The winter tires, on separate rims, also do the same thing. It seems to get worse as time goes by.

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