I know many of the vendors for the Gencoupe will install lower temp radiator thermostats to keep the engine oil temps down.
What would the effects of this be on our turbo's? Grimmspeed makes a 140* thermo for the gc's and I believe it's 20* cooler than stock for them.
Would this to something we could do to protect from detonation and run the engine a little cooler during the hot summer months?
I did an engine swap for a junkyard motor my 4.0 ohv had a very bad rod bearing so I got one from the junkyard with 117,000,or so they say.Anyhow, after its all said and done it runs perfect except the temperature gauge seems to not get as high up on the gauge as before after sufficient driving(it used to run about middle of the gauge) it drops low at idle then goes up and stays up then goes down.it still has good heat, doesn't seem as good as before tho.I changed the thermostat also.
View 8 Replies2006 Hyundai Sonata Radiator fan is not turning on at temp or with AC. Fan works with 12 volts and a good ground at the connector. The car side of the connector has 14.5 volts on the positive side and 12.5 volts on the negative side with car running and AC on. Why is there 12.5 volts on the negative side and more importantly. how to resolve?
View 5 RepliesI've removed the splash guard(s) and can see a bunch of different thick hoses. I have no clue what I'm supposed to be looking for in order to drain the coolant. What I'm looking for (picture would be great or a really good description).
View 23 RepliesThis is kind of a strange (minor) issue, but I noticed just recently that the outside temperature reading on my 2012 Sonata GLS is registering about 10 degrees hotter than the real outside temperature. This is driving down the road, not parked in the sun. It showed 91 degrees the other day as I was driving home from work, when the actual high for the area was barely 80.
My thoughts were that something was blocking or covering the sensor for the outside temp reading, but don't know where that sensor is located to check it...or if there might be some other way to "reset" the temp reading?
I just bought a 2014 Sonata GLS two weeks ago and have a question about the car icon below the engine temp gauge inside the tachometer. Looking for description of its function? It shows the card doors open. I believe it also shows the trunk open. But the owners manual doesn't mention it and I can't find any information online about everything it shows.
Specifically, I'm getting a low tire pressure indicator (we just started getting temps below freezing here). When the car is driving, the little car icon shows the tires, but the back driver's side tire is missing. Does that mean that that's the tire with the issue? Not a big deal, but I'm still figuring the car out and that would be a really cool feature. Also, does the little car icon show anything else?
I changed the radiator and thermostat, changed the coolant, and my fans work. however, whenever i take the car for a short drive, the temp goes up. I stop the car and shut it off, it steams near th coolant tank. it sounds like its almost boiling..
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 Sonata with 30000 miles. It started shifting funny. It would jump when you put it in drive and shift strangely in all gears. Called the dealer to make an appointment, cancelled as I couldn't get off work. In the meantime, car stopped doing this.
After a while, this started again. Stopped by a shop that offered free code check, the code is P0711 Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor. They said your fluid is overheating and we don't know why, we have to take the transmission off to find out the cause.
What the heck? I have not heard of an over heated O2 sensor. I know they have an extra wire in them for a heater element but I have two temp codes indicating the failure and a permanent code as well.
I know its under warranty but what a weird failure. Overheating...Guess Ill be making that appointment at service earlier than I expected.
When I start my 2011 Hyundai Sonata Limited the left temperature control knob flashes intermittently for a few seconds. See 17 second video. This has been happening for the past three weeks. What is causing this and how to repair it?
View 3 Replieswhen it began overheating, and to be specific it is a 2003 Honda civic ex, automatic. I took it back to them after having to pay towing expenses. They said they didn't know it had issues (bull) they said it was due to a radiator, so they installed a new one. When I got it back it drove fine then it began exhibiting the same symptoms soon after. I decided since I loved the car I wouldn't even bother with the people I bought it from, big mistake and I should have just returned it...I didn't because I was sick of looking for a car and school was about to start. This began the routine of having to fill it with antifreeze every day before and after class, if I didn't it would most certainly overheat and then I'd have to blow hot air all day.
So I took it to another mechanic who figured it must be something wrong with the cooling system and said the fan was acting slow, so he replaced the fan-switch and thermostat and said that it wasn't the water pump. I was hoping this would do it, but it did not. He then tested the head-gasket twice and it came back negative. Then they tested the catalytic converter, came back negative. This mechanic, then proceeds to tell me the people who sold it to me may have put a sealant in which gummed up the engine and is clogging things so it can't function correctly, or put on the head-gasket wrong or any number of things to the engine. Although, wouldn't this still make the head-gasket test fail? He tells me I may need a new engine because to figure out if it truly is an engine problem that would cost as much as a new engine. I don't know what to do or where to go I am at a loss here. Spending my money just to have mechanics tell me there is some mysterious "undiagnosable" problem with my car is the most frustrating thing ever. No one can fix this car it seems.
Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. What should I do next FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
View 14 RepliesSo my 2005 elantra gls has been having overheating problems. A few weeks ago, it overheated one day driving around town for about 30 minutes. I kicked on the heater and made it home. I went out the next day and didn't see any problems. Everything went fine for two weeks, then yesterday the problem happened again. I read about the thermostat often failing, so I did some research on that and replaced it today.
For replacing the thermostat, I followed the lower hose and found the housing, removed it and took out the old thermostat. Removed the old gasket, cleaned around the connection, dried it off. Then I put the new thermostat in , put some gasket sealer down and putthe new gasket on. Finally, put some more sealer on the outside of the gasket and put the housing back on.
After replacing it and immediately turning on the car, I got a High Oil Temp code. I cleared the code and let the car idle for while. After about 15 minutes I went for a drive around the neighborhood and then took it out on the highway for about 10 minutes. It started overheating by the time I got home. I turned it off and when starting it again I get the High Oil Temp code.
Is it possible that I didn't do something correctly with the thermostat. If not, what else could I look for and could I have bumped/damaged the oil temp sensor?
After buying and installing the low temp thermostat, fan switch and green top sensor, I'm still encountering boiling in the line and a temp of 3/4 of the way when at idle. My coolant mixture is about 70/30 and unfortunately I had to use a temporary fix of the prestone universal coolant mix due to the dealer being closed and I didn't want to add more water
What would be the disadvantages of running straight g12 coolant? My issue is boiling and I figure the more coolant and less water, the less chance of boiling to occur.
I'm getting a P0128 thermostat coolant below temp. Coolant level checks out. Temp sensor seems to work. It climbs to 160 and holds steady. I simultaneously had a thermometer in the top of the radiator. It went from 86 to 160 with with jump from 86 to 135 which corresponded to the temp sensor reading of 135.
I am assuming this is the thermostat opening. So, the level is right. The sensor is working and the thermostat appears to open and close. Why its throwing a code?
2009 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl, 4.0L, 74K. Read code w/scanner - "P0128 - Coolant Temp below thermostat regulating temperature". Assuming this is pretty straight forward but was wondering what the most likely culprit is (?thermostat?). Ironically, this code popped about a week ago, I cleared it and actually got my inspection sticker earlier today and then later in the day, the CEL came on again and once again, the P0128 code. The coolant level is perfect so I know there aren't any leaks.
View 5 RepliesTruck has an SCT tune from Innovative Diesel.
View 6 RepliesOn longer trips, over 20+ minutes that the interior temp does not hold the current set climate control temp? If using sync on both sides, the temp in the cabin seems to creep down and you have to keep upping the setting and then reduce it because its too hot.
We have an older 2001 Infiniti I30 and it keeps adjusting to hold the right temp.
My engine started overheating, and because I was stuck on a bridge during rush hour (George Washington Bridge in NYC), I couldn't get stop the car. I drove it for approximately 30 min (slow crawl), and this happened: [URL] .....
Yes, I know how stupid it is, but there was not even a shoulder to pull over to the side. The only good thing is that this happened pretty much soon as Igot off the bridge, and not on the bridge.
Hose by the radiator cap (is that the overflow hose?) popped out and spewed steam for good 5 minutes. The car did not start at this point. I left the car by the gas station after the bridge, and came back later on in the night. It started and I was able to drive it home (about 10 min away) at crawl speed without it reaching the red zone.
Today, I just did the oil change, topped off on the coolant, and also replaced the thermostat. But the engine still overheats (to the red). The upper radiator hose is burning hot and the bottom radiator hose is not. Also, the fan is working, but it blows out pretty hot air.
I have a 2011 Avalon Limited and live in the Dallas area. Are used the auto setting on my thermostat all the time. I noticed that in cold weather, the AC almost always switches on as part of the thermostat function. I don't understand that. For example, its 30 degrees outside, & I select Auto and set the temperature to 70 degrees, and the green AC light goes on. I want to avoid using more gas than I need to use, so I'm wondering why this might be so. It's a simple matter to simply press the AC and turn it off, but I'm wondering why it goes on in the first place.
View 1 Repliesyesterday my upper radiator hose connector broke off and I replaced it filled it up with coolant and now the upper radiator hose gets really hot at normal temps while the lower hose is cold maybe and gets warm not hot or anything... I see some steam coming off the radiator but i think its all the coolant that splashed on it yesterday from the hose busting off and flooding it basically. the car does not overheat at idle or driving or anything so I am curious to what it could be
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