Suburban :: 2004 Chevy - Temp Gauge Showing Truck At About 250 Degrees
Jan 21, 2012
So yesterday my truck decided to start giving me fits right after it finally got extra cold and snowy here! I noticed early on this fall that my water pump was leaking, so I replaced it. I also found that my truck only blew hot air while in motion, and cold air while it was stopped or at idle. At this point I replaced the thermostat and housing. I originally had the stock setup with the combined thermostat and housing. The new one is and updated GM version with the separate thermostat and housing assembly. Everything seemed to be ok until yesterday morning.
This is where my problem is now. Yesterday on my way to work, the message center said my coolant was too hot. The temp gauge showed the truck at about 250 degrees. My speed was only about 45mph and it was 6 degrees outside. I ended up parking the truck and looking at it after work. I found it was still doing the exact same thing. When I investigated further, I found that the upper radiator hose was hot, while the lower one coming out of the thermostat housing was cold.
At this point I figured that I had a bad thermostat, and bought a replacement. I tested the old one on my stove top in a pan of water and found that it did actually open at about 175 degrees, so I'm not so sure it was bad now. With the new thermostat installed, the engine is no longer overheating and the temp stays around 235 while driving. However, I am back to the heater blowing cold air at idle and while stopped, and warm air while driving. In addition, the rear heater now only blows cold air, it never warms up.
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2002 S-10 2.2L ... Started noticing my temp gauge running around 170 degrees as it gets cooler outside. I changed the thermostat and noticed that the connector to the temp sensor was cracked, changed that too. Had to warranty replace the temp sensor because the first one didn't register on my dashboard gauge. Still didn't get heat above 150 degrees.
Warranty replace the new thermostat and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. Radiator cap test bad at 15psi, replaced radiator cap and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. The engine is running cool and the cabin heat is not as hot as it has been for the last 5 yrs. There are no engine codes stored, anti-freeze leaks and level is correct.
I'm lost as to why all the sudden the truck starts running cold and won't build heat.
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Just recently bought a 04 greg with 35000 on it one owner pretty much brand new. Its starting to get cold over here in va but I notice the temp gauge wasn't moving when warming truck up. After sitting for 25min it was still at 150 degrees. So I drove home about 10 mi away an when I got home it had just started to move up. This can't be normal.
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Bad news kids... it's terminal. Took my 95 3/4 ton 4X4 6.5 diesel suburban in complaining of temp gauge going high and dropping, alternator... ball joint fears.... And I just got a call, it's got a cracked head. So this is how it ends. Husband aint never gonna fix it. I knew this day was coming. He said the temp gauge going high then dropping is some sort of coolant preasure build up and release. I seen it every morning for the last year. He said he took her up to 120 kms and it did exactly what I said. And he knows exactly what my problem is. It's true, Toni knows this truck. So any guesses how long I got? What will happen when it goes? When would you park it for good? My last over heat was a couple years ago when a belt blew off, big heat is the only thing that would have cracked a head right? So the crack might be that old. And it's sad news. Driving it since birth, 95.
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'05 Ex overhead console temp is showing -40 deg... Had the board out looking for loose diodes, didn't see any. Have any of you ran into this before?
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My temp gauge (which very seldom deviated form its position) is showing above normal temps. Yeah its over 90 here but this is unusual for my car to run hotter. I put in a new thermostat about 3 years ago. I've also been adding water/anti-freeze because there was a small leak (that I finally found in the hose) that I corrected. Could it be that my mixture isn't a 50/50 mix or is it my thermostat again? They say they don't last long anymore???
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Was driving my truck I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6L, btw. The heater started blowing cold air and I looked at the temp gauge but it was showing lower than it normally does and then, after a couple of miles or so I looked at the temp gauge again. By this time I was in my driveway. And it was overheating it might have been that way before I looked at the temp gauge again. But any way I opened the hood didn't see any leaks, all my hoses were hot except the top heater hose. Also checked the oil it was full and coolant was too, what this could be? Sounds like a t-stat to me? But could be worse. Also forgot to mention that the oil had no signs of water in there nor the expansion tank cap !
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The AC in my F-150 Super crew Lariat 5.4 was just charged and works fine until the temp reaches ninety degrees, then it blows hot. What this could be?
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I am trouble shooting my temp gauge. I have a 1997 f350. I brought the truck a year ago and i have still not fix this problem. I install a new temp gauge and nothing changed. When ever the truck is running it reads cold and doesn't budge. Ive read that the gauge can be broken its self but during a few hot times over the summer. The gauge began to rise slower, never reaching normal temperature. A few times i messed with the heat and the gauge would shoot over the normal temp. The truck seems to run at a good temp sometimes hot though. The tube on top of the radiator is hotter than the bottom also.
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I have a 2002 F-350 6.8L, 4x4, crew cab, 8' bed, SRW, trailer tow pkg. I purchased it new in the fall of 2001. The truck currently has 54,000 miles on it (only gets used when I need to tow/haul something). It's kept in the garage and is in near showroom condition.
Everything on the vehicle is 100% functional except the transmission temperature gauge. Even when the truck sits for weeks, the needle will move to mid scale as soon as the key is switched on - haven't even started the engine yet! Put the scanner on it - no codes stored.
I'm attempting to trouble-shoot the TFT (transmission fluid temperature) sensor. Found some documentation online on the 4R100 transmission. It shows an electrical connector on the solenoid body with pins for the thermistor (so I can measure its resistance). However, I can't find a connector anywhere on my transmission that even remotely resembles the diagram I found online.
Question 1: When you first get in your vehicle and turn the key, does your tranny temp gauge read "cold" just like the engine temp gauge?
Question2: Does my truck have the 4R100 transmission? How can I verify that?
Question3: Looking for documentation on what connector and which pins are for the thermistor?
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I left the house and parked on a hill parking lot, drivers side lower than the passenger. When I left, I was driving around and noticed the gas gauge, which had been at half full, was now showing full. I thought if I shut off the car, that might reset everything. It didn't. Anything I can do to fix this? Top the tank and see if that won't fix it? Or take it in? It sounds like a stuck sensor.
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Vehicle: 2009 Toyota Prius Base ... Recently my car started showing the master warning light along with the temp warning light on the navigation screen. After opening the hood and inspecting, there is a coolant leaking from somewhere. Took it to the dealer and was told there is no leak but a bad/blocked coolant tank assembly. Question is, if I bought the tank myself for under $1k, could I replace it myself? What would be involved besides replacing coolant? Do I need to get the air out of the lines? Etc.
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I am looking at a 1997 F150 with a 5.4 in it, guy who owns it says if you drive it down the street the temp gauge climbs and then the truck goes into limp mode but if you check the engine temp under hood it is nowhere near overheating. Where I should start to look for a problem here? If this is too complicated I will pass on the truck, its not worth it to me to get this truck if it is going to be a nightmare. I have a 2000 with a 4.6 that runs great so this would just be a spare for me, but would like to have it because its in such nice shape.
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2004 Venture LT ... The newest problem I am having that I haven't resolved is that the fuel gauge is showing empty, low fuel light on, range on trip computer says (E). I repaired the wiring harness's on the left and right front due to ac leakage, and I also repaired the pass through behind the drivers seat. This seemed to resolve many of the problems I was having.
The thing I noticed is that before I repaired the pass through connector the gauge would work intermittently but now its totally dead. I find it unlikely that the sender and the connector would go out at the same time. Any wiring diagram of that connector, or at least which color the wires are for the sending unit and the resistance values I should get?
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I have had this issue with the truck 2008 F-250 6.4L since I bought it a year ago. At first it seemed as if the truck wouldn't start whenever the water temp gauge was working while she was hot. When the gauge wasn't working she would start right up like a champ. Well a year later ( have only been driving it for 6 months) a full engine rebuild, new high pressure fuel pump ( injector pump on top the engine below the turbos) she still won't start when she is hot. What the issues are.
Right after the engine rebuild I was getting the p088 code which is for the hpfp but since I cleared the codes right after the engine was rebuilt I haven't gotten the code again. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump this last weekend hoping that it would solve all of my issues and she would be like brand new again, but it didn't do anything. When I ran codes right after I installed the high pressure fuel pump I got a few codes p0684 which is the glow plug control module p0284 ( google said) gear lever y position correct but I'm unsure if that's right.
P0528 which is the fan speed sensor circuit ( that was unplugged during the removal of the hpfp and power steering pump or the radiator) p0480 cooking fan circuit ( also unplugged ) p174e out put shaft wheel speed correlation ( not concerned about that one) p008c fuel pump control circuit p008d fuel cooler system ( taken out and unplugged using installation of new hpfp) p115a ( low fuel level forced limit power) that is from trying to start while she had a little bit of air in the system after replacement) p2291 injector control pressure to low- excessive cranking ( probably from the air in the fuel system again). I cleared all those codes once I got her up and running again. Checked for codes yesterday and the only one that came up again was the p0684. Where to check next for this hot start issues,and don't know what to do at this point.
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For the second time in 6 weeks My 2004 F250 Powerstroke has run out of fuel with the gauge showing a 1/4 tank. First time it was just under a 1/4 showing I had it towed to dealer and they told me it had sucked in the filters requiring replace and flush of system. The told me that this happening very often and I would be replacing all of the injectors at my cost. I told them that I didn't want this to happen again and to check out the fuel gauge and sending unit and replace if in doubt. Well they checked it out and found nothing wrong, told me it was accurate and should not be an issue again. Now 6 weeks later on the Friday night before a holiday, it did it again, this time with over a 1/4 tank showing. I really don't want to spend 6 grand replacing injectors and would really like to trust my truck again, getting to the point that I'm nervous at 1/2 tank.
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My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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I have been having problems with the rear heat & ac. It was blowing intermittently then we would have to tap the panel in the back right side to get it to work, it won't blow at all. Is it the blower motor?
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Where the factory amplifier can be found in a 1997 Chevy Suburban LT? MY Suburban still has the original radio with tape deck and with the 1-disc CD player under the A/C controls. I have already replaced all 6 old '97 speakers with new ones, and I would also like to install a better aftermarket amp with a sub woofer.I looked inside the rear quarter panels, under all seats, underneath the middle console.
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I have 2002 Chevy suburban. Recently, a high pitch whine has developed. When accelerating the whine intensifies. I replaced the alternator ... No change! What could it be? Speedometer cable?
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