Toyota :: 1985 - Hesitate / Misfire / Bogging Down When Hot
May 22, 2011
Experiencing hesitation/misfiring/bogging down sensation under light to moderate acceleration. Manual transmission, and sometimes feels like bucking by a novice stick-shift driver. Starts fine, idles fine when cold or hot. Will accelerate fine when cold, but only for a few minutes or less than a mile until it's warmed up enough. Have checked and tested many ignition and carburetor related items until narrowing it down to EGR system, which is only operating once warmed up, and not at idle, so that part of the system is working OK. If I disconnect vacuum hose from EGR valve, runs fine with no hesitation, but pings or knocks badly (as expected). Symptoms all point to too much EGR flow. With no computer or codes to check.
Have tested both EGR valve and EGR Vacuum Modulator, and both seem fine. EGR valve hold vacuum. Found and cleaned some carbon build-up, and pintle stem doesn't seem to stick. Vacuum modulator tested by blowing air into Q port while blocking P & R and air passes thru small bleed off hole. Filter had small dark burnt looking spot at bleed off hole - don't know if that's normal or not. Also tested modulator by simultaneously apply pressure to bottom port (to simulate exhaust pressure) while applying pressure to Q port, with P & R still blocked. Bleed off hole slowly stopped flowing air as pressure built up. About to roll the dice and replace modulator (less expensive of the two). Without trying to add more confusion, have wondered if a clogged cat convertor would cause enough increase in exhaust pressure to make modulator send too high a vacuum signal to valve. While the truck is old, it only has 50k miles, and no real modifications.
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I am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
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About two weeks ago I noticed the engine idle start to hesitate but ONLY while idling. I was sort of leaning towards the distributor cap or rotor but that didn't add up because in the past when either of these would go out the car would just die without any warning whatsoever. So I just kept driving it and then tonight when I started the engine it was hesitating a lot more than it had been and also hesitating during acceleration but would smooth out after I would reach and maintain 40mph. The CEL also started flashing on and off. I went ahead and replaced all the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor with no improvement. Tomorrow I plan to replace the plug wires. The code it's sending is P0302 (misfire cylinder 2). If the plug wire doesn't do the trick and I can't find any leaks on the intake I'm going to try to figure out how to inspect the ignition coil (well, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out since I have two different shop manuals for this car.)
Another possibility for P0302 is low engine compression but I seriously doubt that's the problem because last time I checked the compression all 4 cylinders had above average compression. I doubt the plug wire is going to fix it since the wires only have about 20k miles on them and I don't think I have any leaks on the intake so where else I should look? Oh yeah, just remembered. I also put a stethoscope (actually a screwdriver) against the fuel injector for cylinder number 2 and it was clicking away just like the other 3 injectors so I guess the injector isn't the problem unless it can be faulty and still make the clicking noise. So should I check the injector with a meter or is the clicking enough evidence that it's working fine?
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Okay, the code I am getting is a "Misfire on Cylinder 3" code. The car hesitates in REVERSE and DRIVE only, not in neutral.
This is what I have already done: checked all wiring (fixed a bare wire), did an ignition coil swap (#3 to #2) to see if it was actually the coil (no change), replaced all the spark plugs (no change), replaced the MAF sensor (no change).
A shop I tok it to said it was the ignition coil, and that all the spark plugs needed to be replaced. They did not know that I already replaced all the plugs and, having already done the swap with another coil (and getting no change), I find it hard to believe anything they say.
I am leaning toward an O2 sensor issue or a fuel filter issue (but these cars are supposed to have lifetime fuel filters and that is not a job I ant to do if I don't have to).
I was also told that the "green thing" in this photo might be bad. What that is and/or why it would be bad. it does move a little, but so do all the others.
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Chevy 1999 tahoe 5.7 vortec ... Car hesitates engine light reads random misfire at auto zone. Took to dealer said 10 degrees out of time on his diagnostic machine. Replaced just about every thing on engine dealer said he couldn't fix because he couldn't adjust distributor, I told him on my car that you couldn't adjust timing from distributor, who is right?
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I have a 1996 Toyota Celica automatic transmission with just under 160k miles. It's always been a great car, very reliable and very few problems. A few days ago, it started having trouble starting (engine would turn over and not fire, usually starts after four or so tries) and then will bog down considerably while taking off from a stop until it shifts into second gear. No problem idling, not stalling.
Mechanic changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure, plugs, cam and ignition timing, catalytic converter - all okay. Thinks it might be the distributor but would take a few hundred dollars worth of work to diagnose, plus whatever expense if it is the distributor, and obviously more if it is not. Might it be the distributor?
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I've offered to do a basic compression check on a 22R engine, '85 Toyota pickup, which is apparently low on power, won't go above 50 mph. Yes it could be a multitude of things. Chances are it's several of them.
I have not yet heard it run. I'll consider myself lucky if I hear the uneven cadence of running on three cylinders.
My job Tuesday is to screen it for the most obvious things like a clogged air intake or air filter, choke stuck closed, worn spark plugs, etc, and do a simple compression test. I will again try to persuade the owner to take it to the skilled mechanic I've recommended, which he has resisted thus far, even though he's about to set off on a long trip through desolate terrain.
I already suspect low compression based on what the owner has implied, but also wondering about ignition timing and vacuum advance. This is a carbureted engine, so does that mean that it also has a distributor and needs to have the timing set? I have a timing light, but only vaguely remember the procedure...disconnect vacuum line from carb and plug hose leading to distributor? Any marks on the harmonic balancer to align?
Evidently it has a bogus exhaust system too - no cat - making me wonder if there's a problem there. I'm not going to get too deep into this, but if I can at least spot the problem I want to be able to convince the owner that there's a clear explanation, so he'll get it resolved.
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I have a supra that is only running on the first and last cylinder. It was running poor and I pulled off the spark plug wires to see how it ran. After more testing I removed all 4 middle plug wires and it kept running the exact same. What would be causing this? The plugs and wires are new.
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I have a 1985 Toyota Tercel that I just got, the thing has been sitting for 2 years and it started before it was left to sit. Now I have done all the usual maintenance on it, replaced the sparks, oil, oil filter, air filter, distributor cap, fuel pump and fuel filter, gave it some gas treatment and filled the tank and some carb cleaner to clean out the gunked up carb. My problem is that it starts but dies right after when it tries to idle. it can shift in to gear and such but it will still die out right after about 10 seconds unless I keep tapping the gas. The more times I start it the longer it stays idle but I wonder what the problem is...
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I own an 85 toyota pick up. It has a 86 electrical system with a 95 engine. To date, this truck has run like a top until I got in the other day and turning the key nothing happened. That is to say, the starter did not turn or kick out. I had the starter tested and it is fine, I tested the starter relay and the neutral position switch. All the wiring checks out fine except for one That comes off the starter relay in the fuse box under the hood.
This wire seems to be a ground for the coil side of the relay. In my books, it should go to a clutch /start switch that I can't find. When I follow the wire it goes from the fuse box into the right side of the engine compartment into the fender area then runs toward the cab but I do not find its color combination going into the computer. I had this same problem with a 86 truck before and never found the problem.
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This is on a 2013 Toyota Camry XLE that has the V6. It has approximately 1,200 miles on it. This has happened six times since new. Sometimes, when at a complete stop, turning into traffic, using approximately less than quarter throttle (just enough to enter traffic) the vehicle has hesitated and bogged down almost to a stall. The operator isn't a "two foot" driver and the throttle is held steady. We've had it looked at twice, road tested both times without replication, ran diagnostics the second time and cleared the ECM and TCM so all learning values were reset. There are no TSBs or recalls that we know of. Its quite a safety concern being stuck when pulling into traffic.
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 2.2 4 cylinder. It has about 206k miles on it… About 2 months ago I started to feel slight hesitation when I was driving…. It was so slight I wasn’t sure if it was happening or not. Recently the hesitation has become much worse… typically it will hesitate and jerk when I try to accelerate from slow speeds… this primarily happens when the car is cold. It will also jerk and hesitate when I am cruising at a fixed speed. If I step on the gas, the jerking stops.
Here are known issues and recent work I have had done… in November I replaced my complete exhaust system myself, including the downstream oxygen sensor. The cat is now bad and it will rattle. I had a mechanic replace my water pump, timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners associated with it about 2 weeks ago. The hesitation predated this problem.
About 5 years ago I replaced my own plugs and wires… when I did this; I noticed oil on one plug. This was for the cylinder closest to the driver’s side. I never noticed any issues with the performance of my car related to the oil, and I do not burn through much… perhaps a quart every 2 months. About a week ago I replaced my plugs and noticed the oil again. I do not know if this relates to my hesitation problem or not. I also filled my tank and used a container of injector cleaner, thinking perhaps a clogged injector was causing the problem.
The problem still exists.
Now I am thinking it might be one of two problems… either a defective ignition coil or a bad throttle position sensor. Yesterday I borrowed a code reader… it told me I had “long fuel trim in bank 1”.
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I have a 2001 RAV4 4WD. I gave the car to my sister. When she and other family members drive it, the car revs to 4K rpm without moving, hesitate, then drives. It is dangerous to merge. I know there is a bulletin on this problem for model years 2001 to 2003, and Toyota will replace the ECU and transmission, if damaged, extending the warranty to 150K miles or 10 years (the car has 108K miles, and approaching 10 years). However, no engine light and no code shows up.
We took it to 2 transmission specialists; both will not touch the transmission because they (independent of each other) feel it's the ECU. (We have used them in the past for other cars.) We then took it to 2 Toyota dealerships; Toyota won't fix it, recommends replacing the transmission. We are stuck because we can't get answers and can't get any solutions to our problem.
We called Toyota; the Toyota case worker has been useless, says he sees nothing wrong with the car and said it's safe to drive (it's not, especially when merging). Both local transmission specialists said they would not drive the car in that condition. Right now it's sitting in the driveway, totally useless.
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I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
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So, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
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My Wife has a 1984 and I have a 1985 Toyota Pickup, 2wd, 22R engine, same dash and almost same everything. There are 4 settings on the selector switch (horizontal lever switch moving from left-to-right) for the blower fan: "Off", "Low", "Med" & "High". In both trucks, the "Low" setting for the BLOWER FANS quit working, but the other settings still work fine and amount heat-output is fine(so this is a FAN problem and not a "heating" problem).
Is the problem in the switch itself?, or in the blower fan resistor?, or in the blower fan motor? From what I've read elsewhere, it seems to be a blower fan Resister problem that is most likely. If that is the case, where exactly should I be looking for it and will I need to remove the dashboard? And what does it look like? I've seen a small black object about 1"x 1.75"x 1.75" and it has an Amperage listing on it and it's next to a Relay that seems to be related to the heater. I'm guessing that thing is not the resister if it's labeled "Amperage", I would think it should have an "Ohms" symbol or word or rating on it if it were the resistor, or is that really "it".
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My 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
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I used a fluid pump to suck out 1 gal of trans fluid thru the fill tube. I refilled. Started car, have engine miss. Flashing cel, comes and goes. I literally touched no other parts under hood. Yes, the fill tube is within 1 foot of maf. Perhaps I touched maf? What the heck? Life is not fair. Can't find my code reader.
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Once day my car began idling poorly and would not accelerate beyond 3000 rpm. The check engine light began blinking and I stopped driving it.
My check engine light remained on and the obd read Cylinder 2 misfire (p0302) and random cylinder misfire (p0300). I tested the ignition coils and found that the cylinder 2 ignition coil was dead so I replaced it. The codes no longer showed but the car still would not accelerate and was firing irregularly. I checked for vacuum leaks but found all hoses connected and whole.
I tried removing pcv hose and blocked the valve with my thumb and the car instantly corrected the rough idle. I then went around the block and the car drove and fired properly. I'm unsure if I am losing vacuum pressure in the intake manifold or if the issue is elsewhere?
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I just bought a used Toyota Avalon with 135,500 miles on it. They sold it because it was smoking and didn't know what was wrong with it(they were an old retired couple). They were the only owners and it has never been driven hard or abused.... Anyway. I read online that unhooking the vacuum hose from the pcv valve may make it stop smoking. I unhooked it and plugged the vacuum hose and they were right. It stopped smoking after I got the rest of the oil out of the hose. I thought maybe the old pcv valve was messed up so I got a new one and hooked it back up but then smoking was back. So I am getting too much blow by in it for sure. I don't think the valve seals are leaking because as soon as I unhooked the vacuum from the pcv valve the smoking stopped. I drove it for 2 days with no smoke whatsoever. What could be causing the blow by to be so strong? It was strong enough to spit oil out of the pcv valve without the vacuum hose sucking it out(there was oil on the engine).
The check engine light is also on so I hooked it up to a computer at an auto parts store and it said I had a misfire on 2 cylinders(2 and 6). So I changed all the spark plugs and re-hooked it to the machine. This time I only got an error code for cylinder 2. Each plug has a coil so I switched the coil from cylinder 4 to cylinder 2 to test if maybe the coil was bad, but it still gave me a misfire on cylinder 2 only. I even swapped the plug from 2 to 4 to make sure the new plug wasn't bad. Still a misfire on cylinder 2. It is still smoking(ONLY WHEN VACUUM HOSE IS ON PCV VALVE) and check engine light is still on and error code says cylinder 2 misfire.
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I have about 140,000 miles on my car, a 2006 Toyota Prius that misfires at idle when cold, and for the last 10,000 miles the engine has been using between 1 and 2 quarts of castrol synthetic 5w30 oil between the 5,000 mile oil changes. My check engine light naturally stays on constantly now and the engine also appears to misfire on acceleration also.
For the first 60,000 miles I had the oil changed at various places every 3,000 miles using nonsynthetic oil that was recommended in the car manual. Since then I have been getting the oil changed at the dealer where I bought it new and they switched to the synthetic oil, so I asked the service department, why the misfire? They said the new type spark plugs are very sensitive to oil burned in the firing chamber, causing the misfire. They told me to check the oil often which I do and the engine has never been more than a quart low.
Is there a spark plug I can use that is not as sensitive to the oil, or should I be looking for a junk yard engine or is it cheaper to have my engine taken apart and repaired. Will it damage the engine further to keep running it, there does not appear to be any smoke coming from the tailpipe.
From new I got mpg in the 40's now I am getting 33 to 34 mpg.
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