Volvo :: Wiper Fuse Blows Up After 5 Minutes In Rain
May 25, 2012
2 days ago I was driving to a friends house and it started to rain. I put on my wipers and after 5 minutes they stopped working. I pulled over and checked the fuse and it was burnt out. I had a spare 25A fuse and replaced it on the spot. I first check the horn since it's the same fuse connection. The horn worked ok then I went on with the wiper...the second I put on the wipers the fuse blew again not even letting the wiper make one cycle.
Could it be the wiper motors? What should I do other then bring it in. I want to do it myself.
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This is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
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what are the common problems that cause the rain sensors to not work. The speed one and two both work, but when i set it to auto the wiper will work one time but then never again. when i move the sensitivity switch to the left and then back to the right it will work once more.
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Our rain sensing wiper has been working flawlessly since new. However, it decided to stop working two days ago. It just goes constant speed now.
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A Rain-X wiper flew off on the freeway today.
It's the correct fit for my 2005 Prius, a
Rain-X 5079281 Latitude 8-In-1 Premium Graphite Coated Wiper Blade, 26"
Any tricks for keeping them on? It seems they might not hold on as well as one would like. (Can't examine it though, it's now freeway debris.)
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Every time I replace the ac fuse it blows again sometimes immediately or later it never last more than a day.
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I have a 2004 Gen II that blows the A/C(Htr) 10 amp fuse. The dealer changed the inverter and replaced the fuse with a 15 amps which masked the problem. I have looked at the items that this feeds and have eliminated the: inverter (Dealer knows very little, Scary), A/C Control assembly, heater water pump assembly. I thought that since the Heater water pump assembly runs intermittently it might be that. Or could it be the diode in the relay that controls it? I cannot seem to find where it is located..
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3 months ago I bought a beautiful dark-blue 1988 Volvo 240, manual transmission. This is my first Volvo and I'm already hooked! It's the car that's going to teach me to work on cars because for the most part it's beautifully simple. I bought a repair manual to be prepared, and have now encountered my first real issue.
For several months, even in the rain, it would start and run beautifully. Now when it sits in the rain overnight it will not start the following morning, or until the weather subsides. Once it has a few hours to "dry out" after the rain and humidity stops it starts beautifully. In the wet weather it wants to start, the starter goes and goes and at points it sounds like it almost catches, though ultimately won't. I imagine moisture is getting in somewhere and preventing spark at some point in the ignition system, but, like I mentioned, I'm new to this. Where to begin; what I should replace to begin troubleshooting this?
In a separate issue I can't get fuses for the rear tail/brake lights to keep from blowing when I replace them.
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I have a 2004 hyundai sante fe. None of my windshield washer fluid is spraying on my windows, front or back. I think the fuse to the windshield fluid might be broken so I opened up the fuse box but I can't find a fuse that says it's for the fluid.
There was one that said, I think, "Windshield" but it was a big gray little box it doesn't look like the rest of the fuses. I tried to pull on it but it wouldn't really budge and I didn't want to keep trying because I don't know what it is.
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My father has a 2009 F-150 with almost 25,000 miles. (he leaves it in garage and polishes it weekly) He just purchased a new dual axle trailer with electric brakes and led lights. When we hook up the trailer and press the Brake, turn signal or hazards, we blow a under hood fuse (48 if I remember correctly). When connected to either of his other 2 trailers, everything works and no issues. When I connect my 2014 suburban, the new trailer works perfectly. He does not have a brake controller installed on the F-150 yet. It does have the 7 pin and 4 pin plugs under the bumper.
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My air conditioner works for about 20 minutes then blows hot. If I'm on the highway it works great but stop and go traffic does it in fast. One guy told me I needed a compressor while another said it was a busted shrader valve. At this point we're not sure who to believe...
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This is occurring on a 1997 Land Rover Discovery, but I have read of similar problems on many other "modern" cars. When I start my car, the fuse for dash gauges blows. Then with the blown fuse, the next time I try to start the car, the switch will not activate the startee solenoid relay. If I replace the dash fuse it will start again, but blow the fuse instantly, thus perpetuating the problem. This car is a beater off-road truck and I am willing to just bypass the starter switch and run a hotwired pus-button switch directly to the solenoid. Will this bypass any critical electrical operations? Should I wire the switch through the existing relay, or should I install a completely separate "siolated" relay? I having trouble tracking down how/why the starter solenoid relay would be related to the gauges....and if it is a short in the current starer solenoid circuit, can I just direct wire it to eliminate the problem?
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Background: Sonata 2009 Limited. 165K Miles. Original factory installed everything. Chicago area.
Last week I drove to the mall in the snow. Headlights worked fine. Upon leaving the mall I realized that my low beam headlights were not working.
Purchased and installed one low beam headlight bulb, on the slim chance that both of them simply burned out at the same time. It didn't come on.
Results of an internet search indicated that the fuse might be blown. I pulled the 20amp Low Beam headlight fuse and sure enough it was bad. Put in a new fuse. Turned on the headlights and it blew instantly.
Have been driving with the high-beams the past 5 days. Only one car has "blinked" at me, so driving with the high-beams isn't a problem. Probably because there are so many cars with really bright low-beam headlights these days.
However, I would like some guidance to getting this problem resolved. What are the most likely reasons for the low-beam headlight fuse blowing instantly like this?
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My 05 wagon's a/c seems to be acting up. It takes about 30 minutes of running the a/c before it blows cold air. It's under warranty so I'll be taking it in.
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Here's the situation....It blows cold for about 5 mins, then the air starts to warm and stays warm. I just bought the truck 06 350 crew cab and they supposedly charged the system. I'm wondering if it has a leak but it should start out blowing warm air? I just wanted some thoughts before I start throwing money at it.
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No power to plate lights or rear wiper. Fuses appear O.K., electrical contacts to bulbs appear O.K.
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I have a 2010 Kia Forte, which I purchased in late 2011. I had not had the car for very long when I noticed that the left, rear taillight was out. My husband replaced the bulb and it still did not work. This led me to the fuse panel. The fuse was blown so not only the taillight was out, but also the front, left, parking light. I replaced the fuse and the lights came back on. However, within days, the lights were out again. I have replaced the fuse two or three times since then, but each time it blows again within days, so mostly, I am driving around without a tail light. What could be causing the fuse to blow repeatedly?
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I have a 92 st, all stock. It was given to me by a friend that moved. The car was in very good shape before sitting for about two months (I had to go pick it up an hr and a half away, then replace the battery and starter).
The only issue it's had is the heater fan control will blow the circuit when turned on, which will kill my gauges, not to mention no fan. I removed the blower fan and bench tested it, seems fine. And with the fan unplugged, I can turn the switch on without blowing the fuse (it's possible that this plug is the only wiring from that switch, not sure).
My question is, is it possible this switch is short circuited and that's what is causing the fuse to blow? And is it possible this switch could be the source of my battery drain?
I was thinking maybe this was an ongoing thing, because the switch hasn't worked in a year and a half, before I got it. Perhaps this was draining the battery, but wasn't showing up because the car was being driven daily. I'm not sure what to do next but don't want to guess and start buying parts.
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This is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
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Got a 2001 F150 XLT 4x4,4.6L, When you start the vehicle it seems to run a little rough you can drive around with it OK. Soon as you put it in reverse,It starts to really run rough..touch the gas pedal and fuse position #30 blows.
This fuse is for : Passive Anti theft Transceiver, Cluster Ignition Coils, Powertrain Control Module, Relay Coil on Plugs, Radio noise Capacitor, ECC Diode.
I have checked cables and connections, all seem ok...Relays are fine. Nothing seems burnt on the cable running from the engine to the exhaust. I don't see any wire breakage in the tilt Column.
Cant find a short if it is one.. Even removed the aftermarket Remote starter from the circuit ... still blowing that darn fuse.... What to check now, or what it could be?
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My XC70 makes a weird whistling type noise in heavy rains that last a long time. It doesn't do it in light rains, or rains that are heavier but don't flood roads or collect water on the shoulder or slow lanes, only the really heavy, hard to find the road type.
There are no warning lights when it happens, turning off everything, except the car and windshield wipers, doesn't work. Pulling off the road, works after about 30 seconds, but then we start again, and it continues. This is only happening during really heavy rains, is scary, and I don't have a clue what it's doing or why nor does my mechanic.
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