Yukon :: 1999 Shakes Sometimes When Idling At A Stop Light
Feb 29, 2016
My Yukon, with 140,000 miles, will sometimes start/fire up right away but other times it sluggish to start and then when it finally does it will shake for a while. Also, sometimes when idling at a stop light it will shake. It will also shake sometimes when I get around 60-70 mph. The rpm's are fine.
I replaced the fuel pump last spring and had a tuneup last summer. What could be causing this? I've had my mechanic look at it and he's hooked up his handheld diagnostic tool to it and it never shows any codes.
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My 04 Yukon XL blows ice cold from both units while driving. However, at a stop light or in park the temperature of the air warms slightly. It will sometimes also blow hot. I checked the pressure using one of the units available at auto parts stores, and it was a low. I added refrigerant and the issue got a little better. I am thinking the fan clutch may be going bad? The truck doesn't overheat at all and in fact stays at mid-gauge throughout operation. Am I correct in pin-pointing the fan clutch?
Also, I know on the and up the TPS tells the pressure for each tire. Is there a way to get this same feature on my? Would it be possible through a software upgrade or replacing the entire DIC?
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My '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5. Cost is 3200-3500 for the repair.
and if the price is accurate. Given the age and mileage on the car, I am reluctant to invest 3-4k.
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My 1999 ford ranger, when started, shakes and then while i am driving. my check engine light is on and reads a #3 cylinder misfire. I have taken it somewhere to get it checked out and they can't figure out what is wrong with it. this problem only happens 50% of the time. I don't know what to do. Also just got a tune up.
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My 2002 passat engine shakes when in idle or stop at light. When running on highway, it is smooth. what could it be?
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I have changed the rotor, inner and outer bearings, and the brake shoes look pretty good. My truck still shakes when I stop, it acts like bad rotors, but they are new.
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A couple weeks back my 99 yukon died after hitting a large bump, found that the IGN A fuse was blown and kept blowing new fuses so I started digging and I found a slightly bare wire from an old remote start install that was touching the steel dash, problem solved I think. A few days go by and the ABS starts cycling about every 10 or so brakes, which is wierd, then ABS light comes on speedo goes to zero and trans wont shift, stays in 1st gear but every now and then speedo starts working trans shifts and you can drive but then speedo drops and wham feels like nuetral but really its back to first gear only if you rev it high enough, then the speedo starts on off on off on off gears work then dont then do and so on. What the heck is going on ?
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I don't drive (aren't you lucky?) but my wife and I own a '95 Ford Windstar and last summer we had issues with coolant leaking and had to have a few head gaskets replaced. Now, when we're idling at a stop light or sign, the oil light goes on but as soon as we accelerate, it goes off. The manual says the light indicated either low fluids (which isn't the case) or that the pressure within the system is low. The vehicle seems to run fine otherwise but I'm wondering if the oil light gauge has been set too sensitive?
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I have a 2005 Avalon LTD and the gas mileage dropped from 24+ to 18 seemingly overnight. I don't have a check engine light on. The car seems to be running fine. The only thing I notice is that when sitting at a light or just with the car idling, the avg mpg just keeps dropping. I just had filled the tank and it reset to 12.1 mpg and I sat there for a couple minutes with it idling, and the avg mpg dropped to 9.1. BTW, the car has 132000 miles. Spark plugs changed at 100K, PVC at 105K.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Stratus with approximately 104,000 miles on it (most highway) and I'm at my wit's end trying to figure out my rough idling situation. When I was at stop light, I would notice a rougher than normal idling but not to the point where stalling would occur. The timing belt was just replaced a year and a half ago and I thought maybe something was wrong with the alternator??? I took it into the shop and they replaced my engine mounts, replaced spark plugs, and did a fuel injector cleaning....? Well not exactly....now the idling is 10x worse to where my entire steering wheel is shaking when I'm stopped at a stop light! The car itself just sounds rough.
No check engine light is on and the idling isn't nearly as bad as when I park the car....a part of me wants to throw in the towel and say it is what it is, but I just have a feeling that something's just not right.
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I have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
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So every once in a while, probably a dozen times, over the winter I am idling at a stop light and smell a bad burning smell. It doesn't matter if I have my heat on, or if I switch the temp all the way to cold. It smells like burning rubber or plastic. So far there doesn't seem to be a common factor involved. Doesn't matter the temp outside or how long I have been driving the car. Haven't noticed a loss in fluids, no puddles under my car. And it's not a sweet antifreeze smell.
2004 Ford Escape
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My Forester blows freezing cold air sitting in the driveway idling or at a stop light. As soon as you get out on the highway, it blows about 10-15 seconds of cold air and then 10-15 second of warm air. On a really hot day it is borderline uncomfortable. Already had the freon checked and it is fine. What this could be? I've searched all over the internet for people having a similar problem, but everyone else who has intermittent A/C has like ten minutes of cold and then it blows warm until they stop.
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Whenever the temperature is below 20 degrees F and am idling at a stop light, if I have the heater fan running I get a horrible exhaust smell inside my car. I have discovered that I can lessen the bad smell by turning off the fans when the car is idling and then turning it back on when I start to drive.
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I am desperately seeking info about my 1998 Honda Civic. My engine keeps quitting on me when I am either stopped at a stop light idling or the rpm's are really low. This seems to happen at random with no warning or check engine light. I keep my tank more than half full with gas so I don't believe this could be it. I have been to my mechanic and they said it could be a multitude of things wrong with it so it doesn't make sense to put money into the car if it won't necessarily fix it. I am desperate to figure something out so it can get fixed because I have to drive to work everyday and I'm sick of feeling anxious while driving all the time!
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My 05 has Glowshift gauges on the window pillar. All are analog except the digital fuel pressure gauge. It almost always reads 102 and that can't be right. Sometimes when idling at a stop light it might go down to 95 for a few seconds. Maybe wire grounding out from sensor?
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I have a GMC, 2015, Yukon and I need to stop my odometer from registering miles when I tow it on all fours. I called GMC and was told the odometer is a new "tamper proof" one and it cannot be stopped from recording miles when the wheels are turning. Is there a 'work-around' that would solve this problem?
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So I just recently bough a Celica GTS off an old friend, and the test drive went smoothly. Bought of course, as soon as I got it home, things started going bad.
Sitting in the driveway for a moment, I started to feel the car shake when the engine was idling. I ran the engine up to 1.5K RPMS and it smoothed out, but you could still feel it, just barely. As soon as you let it drop down to the 1K, its horrible again.
Temperatures were fine, no trouble codes. I've Isolated it to the 2nd cylinder from the right, and I've already checked plugs/wires and done compression tests on all 4 cylinders. Fuel injectors are also working fine.
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I have a 390 FE engine and whenever I am idling or waiting at a long stop light my engine temperature goes from the regular temp of 180 to about 190 to 210. How to keep the temp normal when idling? I have checked my fluids and they all seem to be fine, I don't know why it would be doing this.
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I have a 99 4.2L 5 speed reg. cab swb. It recently started idling high (which returns to normal at a stop after 3-5 seconds). While in neutral and in motion (coasting) the idle is around 1500-2k (idle=no throttle input from me). The first time it did this it took a while to start (7-10 seconds) and smoked like you wouldnt believe for about ten seconds. Smoke cleared, eyes returned to normal size, heart rate returned to "normal", but the high idle remains. Drives me nuts. No CEL, no codes, just a fat bald man scratching his head and a little nervousness.
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I purchased a 2011 ES350 today with 38k miles. I didn't notice it at the time of purchase, but the moment I put it into drive with my foot on the brake (idling), the passenger seat does a little dance. It's not terrible, and doesn't shake much while driving, but I would much rather it not be there because it's taking away from the experience of driving this beautiful luxury car.
On a different note, I had a 1999 ES300 that I recently gave to my 85yr old grandpa. The car now has 115k miles on it...it does not shake, and it drives like a dream.
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