Yukon :: 2004 XL AC - Temperature Of Air Warms Slightly At A Stop Light Or In Park
Jul 8, 2012
My 04 Yukon XL blows ice cold from both units while driving. However, at a stop light or in park the temperature of the air warms slightly. It will sometimes also blow hot. I checked the pressure using one of the units available at auto parts stores, and it was a low. I added refrigerant and the issue got a little better. I am thinking the fan clutch may be going bad? The truck doesn't overheat at all and in fact stays at mid-gauge throughout operation. Am I correct in pin-pointing the fan clutch?
Also, I know on the and up the TPS tells the pressure for each tire. Is there a way to get this same feature on my? Would it be possible through a software upgrade or replacing the entire DIC?
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My Yukon, with 140,000 miles, will sometimes start/fire up right away but other times it sluggish to start and then when it finally does it will shake for a while. Also, sometimes when idling at a stop light it will shake. It will also shake sometimes when I get around 60-70 mph. The rpm's are fine.
I replaced the fuel pump last spring and had a tuneup last summer. What could be causing this? I've had my mechanic look at it and he's hooked up his handheld diagnostic tool to it and it never shows any codes.
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I haven an 08 F150 Lariat 5.4 with 148xxx km. I had the ticking in my 5.4 got a rebuild engine 9xxx km ago
A while back it started to vibrate when i stop at a red light or stop sign or in park. The rpms are at 620-660(wich is normal?) sometimes the vibration is there, sometimes not. I can feel it in the seat.
When you pop the hood, you can see the engine shutter just a bit every 4 seconds or so. Early in the morning before i go to work i start the truck to warm it up and its not there.
What i changed so far:
Air filter, fuel filter, sparkplugs, cops, battery(getting ready for winter)
Maf is nice and clean. Where else to look? Engine mounts?
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I've got a 1999 Yukon with a new (rebuilt) engine ad a new (rebuilt) tranny, both only about 3-4 years old. Within the last 2 years it has started to 'snap' to the left or right when I move the wheel just slightly. My husband tightened the steering and that worked a little but it still does it. It's pretty scary when your on the highway and go to adjust your lane placement and the wheel jerks out of your hand in the direction you're turning! Also, the truck has also developed a nasty habit it simply shutting down while I'm driving. The last time it did it I was on the freeway doing 65! It always starts right back up but I'm worried that one of these days it won't and I'll find myself in a real pickle! Nobody I've talked to (including mechanics!!!!) seem to know what these problems are.
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So I've had a habit of slightly engaging my clutch at stop lights so that the transition to the gas is easier and quicker. Never had a problem until today where I smelt the dreaded clutch burn odor. I think I had it too engaged since it was sorta lugging at a standstill for a bit, but in general is this a bad idea? If I don't go as aggressive as the lugging feeling but slightly release it, am I doing damage?
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OK, this is the second time I noticed this. I'm at a stop light, looking around, suddenly, I notice I am slightly moving forward. Is my foot (on the brake) just too relaxed, or what? I have never experienced this before in any vehicle.
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Resurrecting my 940 TD after it's been sitting for a year and the temperature needle now doesn't rise as the engine warms up. Is there any trouble with sensors on these or should i be concerned about something else? It was working when I stopped using the car.
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I just bought a 98 f150 about a month ago from someone. The guy i bought it from said the tranny had been rebuilt about 4 months prior and i have the invoice proving it. I have lately noticed a hard shift from first to second gear, all other gears shift perfectly, but on my way from work toady the tranny seemed to slightly slip out of gear(in other words the rpms didn't shoot up, just loss of power) when accelerating from a stop light, and then it seemed to catch and started shifting ok. my question is given these symptoms is it possible that i can make this tranny last a little while longer or is it about to quit? any possible causes?
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I have a 2005 Prius that's got a strange temperature control problem. When the temperature is set to MAX COLD, then it blows cold air as expected. As soon as the temperature is increased slightly (say to 65 degrees) the air gets really hot - as if it is already on MAX HOT. Between 65 and MAX HOT, the air stays consistently very hot.
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I have a 1988 Buick PA Electra. Car idles rough and shaky at a stop light. When warmed up service engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes off. I've changed ignition coil box, wires, plugs, ignition module, fuel injectors, fuel filter. It seems like there may be a vacuum leak. Car has only 114,000 miles on it and I don't want to give up on her. Before this she was running smooth.
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2004 prius with 170k. Basically , his engine just doesn't shut off. battery is full. Engine keep running at the stop signs, in park. No engine light on.
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I have a GMC, 2015, Yukon and I need to stop my odometer from registering miles when I tow it on all fours. I called GMC and was told the odometer is a new "tamper proof" one and it cannot be stopped from recording miles when the wheels are turning. Is there a 'work-around' that would solve this problem?
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I have a 2003 ford Explorer xlt v8 4.6 with a P2197 code.(02 sensor bank2 sensor1)...
I had code P2195 a few months ago and replaced that 02 sensor but just recently truck threw code P2197 and is now starting to idle surge when I stop at a light or just leave it running in park.
Replaced PCV valve and the hose that goes from pcv valve to IAC also replaced Fuel Filter. Cleaned IAC, Throttle Body and MAF did the old check for vacuum leaks with can of carb cleaner nothing found.
Pulled all coil packs off checked OHMs all read .6,coil boots looked to be in good shape going to replace spark plugs and 02 sensor.
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I have a 1999 Saturn SL1 with a transmission issue. After driving in stop an go traffic and the trans warms up, it doesn't want to change gears from second to third. I can remedy this if i put the car in neutral, turn it off and back on will continue to run for a bit longer. The longer I'm in stop and go traffic, the more frequent I have to do this. On the highway this is a different story and I can stay in the last gear and drive forever! Also after being in traffic for so long, if I put the car into reverse, I have to lightly feather the gas until it slowly goes into gear.
The last issue which I think might be related is that the idle will sometimes stay extremely high if I put my car into neutral at red lights, which I do often to avoid have to turn the car off and on again to reset the transmission.
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My 2007 Ford Focus runs in high rpm. When I put the car in park it sounds like someone is slightly holding gas pedal down. I have to use brake when on road more frequently. Vehicle will run over 25 miles per hour without touching gas pedal.
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I have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
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It was a cold winter in Boston in the last two months. And since then almost every time I started my 2005 Prius, the temperature was default to 75F. Also, the first time I start the car in a day, it almost show the outside temperature as Celsius instead of Fahrenheit unless I press the screen to display something else and then come back, then the Fahrenheit will come back.
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Every time I replace the fuse(under the hood) it blows almost immediately and no interior light work. When on all doors and overhead lights do work so I don't believe it's one of them shorting. Even tried bigger fuse.
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The outside temperature gauge and park distance system on my Phaeton isn't working. In place of the temperature reading on the dash it just says --.-C I've had it scanned at my local Bosch diagnostic garage and it showed a fault on all six front parking sensors. I can't recall whether he mentioned the temperature sensor as well but I put a new one on anyway as they are cheap and easy to get at. It made no difference. They were very busy so didn't have an opportunity to do any further investigation or dis-assembly and I was in no rush so am taking it back next week.
I have checked the two block connectors which the wires from the parking sensors and temperature sensors go in to and that seems properly connected. Is there another connector somewhere or is there a fuse that protects these somewhere as there isn't a fuse described in the manual as being related to these?
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2005 Prius...113k miles...master warning light & a coolant temperature briefly light up several times while commuting. The inverter coolant tank stays full, but the motor coolant is empty every day after a 30 mile commute. I fill it up & 30 miles later it is empty. There are no puddles or evidence of a leak while parked in the garage.
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My 2011 Elantra has a slightly rough idle at stop lights. It doesn't happen ever time, and some people probably wouldn't even notice it, but at every few/several stops it idles a bit rough. When I recently had it in to Hyundai service for the ECM update, I asked them to take a look at it. Of course, they couldn't replicate it at the time, so they couldn't do anything to address it directly. The service manager asked if it happens when the A/C is on or off. While I didn't know the answer at the time, it seems to happen with it both on or off. He did say that the ECM update may address/fix the issue, but unfortunately it didn't. While it's not a big problem, it's a minor annoyance I'd like to get fixed (as I need to enjoy my ride at all times.
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