Abs - Ford - Brakes :: Pedal Freezes After Only Moving A Couple Of Inches And Car Won't Stop
Oct 7, 2013
I drive a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid. For about three months now, sometimes when I brake the pedal only moves a couple of inches, freezes and the car won't stop. The car also makes a strange intermittent sound like someone humming with his mouth open. Sometimes the brake light comes on the dashboard, sometimes the ABS light, sometimes both, sometimes neither. When I take it in to the garage, everyone reports there is no code for them to read. During this time I have had the bearings (noticed road noise) and the brakes (squeaking) replaced in the rear right wheel.
Before the brakes were replaced, when the pedal froze, I stopped the car by pulling on the emergency brake, putting the car in neutral and/or turning the car off. When I restart the car, everything goes back to normal. Since the brakes were replaced, I haven't had to go to those extremes. I take my foot off the brake, depress it again, and the car usually stops. If the ABS/brake lights are on, I turn the car off and on again, and all goes back to normal. The problem could occur three times in a day or once in a month. I never know when it's going to happen. After reporting these symptoms to my local Ford dealership, the place where I buy my tires and my garage mechanic, they all shrugged and said they couldn't do anything. I'm thinking no one wants to be liable when the crash comes.
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1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cylinder need rebuilding or is my vacuum diaphragm going. Not sure that's what its called.
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A couple of years ago I bought an older used pick up to pull our camper and do any general hauling I might need. It is an '04.5 (they made some changes mid model year) Dodge Ram 2500 turbo diesel. It was high miles when I bought it (hence the reason I could afford it) with upwards of 300k but that is about midlife for this type of truck so I wasn't worried. It has been a great truck over all with only odds and ends that you would expect from an older high mileage truck.
However, it has one issue that started not long after I bought it and persisted for about the first year I had it. When I apply the brakes the pedal hesitates before moving. The brakes work fine other than this but it is a bit unnerving when you hit the pedal and it doesn't move for a full second. It is only about a second and then it releases and works fine.
I thought the problem had gone away when it started braking normally for something like six months but lately it has started doing it again. I know it does this and plan accordingly so I have not had any close calls but still, I would like to fix this. I cannot find any data on this problem.
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My problem, Brakes. I hardly have any at all (pedal all the way to the floor and hardly stop), yet the front pads are dragging, and heating the rotors. Maybe a bent line? I bled the fronts, and as soon as I loosened the bleeder nipple, a good bit of fluid came out, without pressing the pedal of course. It's dark out now or I would inspect for bent lines. Could there maybe a problem with the booster?
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I have a 1997 F250LD 4WD. I was driving and came to a stop light. I hit the brakes and the pedal was rock hard with what seemed to be very little travel. I pushed hard to get to a stop and the abs activated and I came to a slow stop. This has happened about 3 times over the last 1000 miles of driving. I see no ABS or Engine lights. Most of the time the brakes are normal. Pads are fine, fluid is fine. Brake booster seems to work fine, pedal is not mushy or hard to press other than the 3 or so times this has happened. Once this happens I can let off the brake and everything is normal. I have not found any vacuum leaks.
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so this morning i go to start my car and i notice that the clutch pedal will only come up about 2 inches. and it's hard to push it into gear with the peddle all the way down. this has never happened before. when i pull the peddle out it just falls back down. but my friends clutch is like that so i figured i could still use it. after school i get in my car and it still does it. only this time it wouldn't come out hardly at all and i can't push it in gear. it took me 10 minutes to get it in gear and every time i shifted it would grind cuz even pushing the clutch in all the was wasn't far enough for it to release. how in the world do i fix this/ what is wrong with it?
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So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
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Can get up to speed about 55-60 in my 2003 f250 6.0 4x4 truck and hit the brakes hard and the pedal gets hard almost like you cut the truck off and the truck doesn't stop well I can let off the pedal and hit it again hard and it works like it should. Also when it does this the power steering doesn't work. I was on an exit ramp and almost wrecked when I exited off the interstate I hit the brake pretty hard and couldn't steer I let off the brakes then hit them again and it worked fine and so did my steering. It would seem that the two are connected somehow. What's wrong?
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My boyfriend ( a mechanic) has a 94 Lexus car for me to use how ever it has problems. It has rear brakes locking( they were changed) and the car freezes won't move in anyway. Every time when it's driven 3-4 miles it freezes steering locks in place won't move. What can be done?
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I did post this in the annoying things thread as well, but I'm wondering what the deal is with my rear windows... why do they need to stop about 2 inches from going all the way down? Is this one of those stupid North American laws? Are Euro spec cars the same or can I fix this somehow?
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We’ve been running into a problem with the DRCC on our 2011 Model 5. In simple terms, the DRCC freezes locking onto car in front and activating the beeper/hitting the breaks even when no vehicle is ahead! So far, this has happened once to my wife (when she was making a 90 mile trip)
In all cases this has occurred as the car was passing a semi, when the front of the car was even with the semi drivers door. In one case, there was no car in front, just acted like there was one.
Whenever this occurs, the car continues to brake and the only immediate solution is to turn off the Radar. Also when we re-engage the DRCC, the unit is still frozen – braking for a non existent vehicle.
No problems turning the DRCC off and using the ordinary cruse. What seemed to “clear” the condition was pulling off the Interstate and turning off the car. I also noted that (after it had froze again) that when the ambient temperature had dropped below 90 degrees that the DRCC cleared. The first time my wife ran into this was hot too.
In summary, this has happened only when:
· Passing a semi
· Temperature is high (above 90).
I don’t believe that it is an alignment issue, as I’ve been amazed at how narrow the radar pattern seems to be (and very nicely tracks the steering).
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I have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
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I just recently purchased my 1999 ford F-250 superduty V8 5.4 5 speed with 144,00 miles and I'm having a issue with the clutch pedal sticking in and then it will pop out after a couple seconds. It will stick more when I come to a light and have my foot on the clutch but the pickup drives fine and there is no slipping of the clutch. I have never experienced this issue before in any rig I've owned. so I'm a little lost at the moment.
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I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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If this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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My wife has a 2003 elantra. When it is started cold the gas pedal is REALLY sluggish for a couple of seconds but after that it works fine. I thinking it may need a transmission fluid flush but I'm not sure.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
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First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
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