Bmw - 325 :: 2004 - At 35 - 40 Mph RPMs Drop To 200 And Noise Like Driving Over Small Rumble?
Oct 15, 2011
2004 BMW 325i automatic - 127,000 well maintained miles - never abused - at 35-40 mph in high gear the rpms will periodically drop 200 and there is a noise like driving over small rumble strips after which the rpms instantly return - the speed does not vary. the dealer installed a warn drive shaft bearing but the problem continues - it is a bit less noticeable in sport mode - what can it be? computer - transmission - ????
The intention is to keep it for many years so if it is a transmission problem would rebuilding the current one or putting in a new one be the more advisable solution?
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2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
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I have a 2003 GMC Envoy I6 4.2L. When driving above 50 after vehicle has warmed up it will drop rpm's by 300-500 and they go back up. This happens for several minutes at a time. It did it for over 20 minutes last night while driving home. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body this morning (removed to clean) because in my researching for the solution it seemed that was the answer. Also left battery disconnected the entire time to allow computer to reset itself for clean TB. Took it for test drive and after about 10 minutes of driving it started doing the same thing. Took it to autozone to see if maybe they could pull a code even though there is no SEL on at the moment, but nothing came up. I am dreading if it's in drivetrain, i have only had the vehicle for about a week and a half. Bought it used from a private seller and it drove home fine the day i bought it and a couple days after, but now it's gotten worse than when it first started.
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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I have a 2004 F150 4x4 5.4. Over the last few weeks I've noticed that when the truck has been parked for even a short time, when I start to move out I am getting a thumping noise from the rear, almost sounds and feels as though I am driving over small speed bumps, but once i get going it seems fine. Where to start?
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I have a weird issue with my 2002 4x2 manual Nissan Xterra...when I drive along (usually happens when I'm in 3rd or 4th gear), and depress the clutch pedal to start slowing down for traffic, while the gear lever is still in the 3rd or 4th gear position, the rpms start coming down as the car coasts, but then a strange grinding/whirring/grumbling noise starts happening. The noise immediately goes away if I pull the gear lever into neutral, OR if I re-engage the clutch to start accelerating again. So, it only happens when BOTH the clutch pedal is depressed, AND the gear lever is "in gear". What could this be? The car has about 115K miles, but I believe the previous owner changed the clutch recently (80-90K), and the clutch itself feels fine.
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Truck is 04 supercrew with 5.4 and 140,000 miles. I have the typical shutter when cruising 55 - 60 and just ease on the throttle to pass someone. I chalked that up to the torque converter unlocking, if I punch it instead of easing into it, it will not shutter. As of yesterday, it acts like the converter is going to full lock up almost immediately. It will bang when it shifts and rpm's drop to lock up range. A few times it has killed the engine when I shift into D. No codes at all, I removed the programmer and installed the stock tune, no change, unhooked battery, no change, fluid is good, and twice after leaving stop signs it worked perfect until the next stop. I believe that it is an electrical control problem.
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Have a 02 v10 125xxx miles have had grinding noise on drivers side sounds like driving on rumble strip took out the unit hub everything looks good changed out the needle bearing because it was frozen still have sound after needle bearing replacement sound goes away if hubs are locked so question is it the unit bearing or stub shaft...
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Was driving when I heard a pop n my boost dropped. Normally run 17 psi but my boost gauge is now only reading it's pushing 4psi. There is no smoke coming out my exhaust or anything, when I had it scanned it read it was a bad pressure sensor in the inter cooler so I replaced the sensor cleared the code took it for a drive n the same thing happened...check engine light came back on n still running like crap.
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Engine is a high mileage (over 150,000) one. Truck is manual transmission. Above 2000 RPMS, low rumble noise and vibrations felt through gear shift lever. Only hear it when engine under load. I think its worn crank bearings... 1993/3.9 Dakota ....
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04 Kia Optima (116,000miles) will drive ok for 20 min. or so (last time 10 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, turn a corner, or drive on hills (basically any condition) and it suddenly acts up after a small jerk (engine light comes and goes and I cannot get anyone to read codes correctly). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops if it gets really bad and it wont come down from above 40mph unless I break and feels like it wants to stall when trying to accelerate again after stops and difficult to sometimes get past 30/40mph, Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
I have had the PO335Crank shaft position sensor replaced three times, (last time by dealer) New battery, new spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well. Every time I take it in (6 or 7 times, different places), they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" .... I am curious about broken flexpipe..
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I noticed that I have an unusual "rumble" noise coming from the location of my ac blower motor when it kicks in full blast. When the air temp comes down a bit and the AC slows down or if I switch the ac off full blast under climate control, the noise goes away. I have never noticed this before and am wondering if it is my ac blower motor starting to fail.
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I have 2016 Camry se Spacial Edition, while driving on small bumps from front passenger side. I can hear something hitting like feels like my shock failed or something I can't notice anything from drivers side. I have 18" on it.
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It has 85K miles and rides very choppy/harsh. I feel even a very small dip/hump/bump when driving and it's coming from rear of the car.
What needs to be replaced and/or checked other than the rear shocks? Everything is stock and correct tire pressure.
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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It's starting to get warm again down here and I've started running my AC in the afternoon on my way home from work. I've noticed that as soon as I get off the freeway and sit at idle waiting for the light, the RPM's on my car drop considerably while the AC is engaged. I know there is a valve, AC idle-up valve or some such thing, that increases the idle when the AC is engaged. Where is it located and what is the proper name/part number so I can check or replace it? Haynes isn't supporting.
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Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
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95 explorer 4.0l ohv. I go to take off and then come to a stop after about 10-15 feet, i just give it a little gas then lightly press the brake, rpm's drop to around 400-500 then back to normal. I have replaced:
IAC
MAF
Plugs & wires
Coil pack
intake manifold gaskets
fuel system cleaner
fuel filter
air filter
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When your car is idling the rpms drop below 600rpm and you can feel like its going to stall but then goes normal. How do i fix this? Clean throttle body???
Also how hard is it to change the transmission fluid? Possible to do it at home?
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I have a 98 1.8t TIP and this problem just started happening when I slow down to stop the rpm's drop and it almost dies but it catches it self and the needle bounces a few times and it is fine after that.
Also when I start the car the rpms bounce like three or four times but it again, catches itself and its fine after that... until i want to come to a stop again.. I live in the city and its a lot of stop and go.
Also when i slow down it feels like my car slams into first gear. it shift perfectly every other time up and down, only when it goes into first it hits hard and scares me cause I don't want anything to go wrong.
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So yesterday evening I was driving home and I noticed this clicking sound like a relay clicking on and off every time my RPMs go above 3k then drop below 2500. I am at 9Kish on the OD so I am just gonna let them know at the 10K oil change. Whatever it is or does, it isn't affecting the cars drive-ability one bit.
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