The dealer has replaced the DMTL pump 4 times on my 2004 BMW325. The last time the dealer checked the gas cap and smoke tested the fuel system - all OK. I do not overfill the tank. The pump has failed again and I am getting tired of taking it to the dealer for a new pump. Fortunately it is under warranty but I am sure that there is something else causing these pump failures.
View 5 RepliesRepeat Front Hub Failures -- 2WD Try this situation -- Purchased 2006 F-150 XL with 57,000 miles. Truck built on 05/24/2006.
Sept 2011 68,621 miles -- Left front hub failure -- Wheel bearing grinding -- Done by Bell Ford in Phoenix.
2013 -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding -- done by independent shop.
Sept 2014 -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding -- done by independent shop.
Sept 2016 -- Upper & lower control arms, struts, strut mounts, springs replaced -- Quality part used -- Complete front end alignment -- Brake job front and rear.
Nov 2016 -- New performance exhaust system due to exhaust leaks.
Dec 2016 -- Failed automatic transmission -- Remanufactured FORD transmission installed w/ 36 mo warranty. Sanderson Ford gets an A+
March 16, 2017 151,000 miles -- Left front hub failure -- wheel bearing grinding! Verified by jacking up truck and spinning left front wheel -- GRIND! This is coming from down in the hub. This is a 2 wheel drive truck. Yes, you counted correctly, this will be the 4th replacement on the Left side!
NO Towing! NO Overloading! Wheels are 2006 XLT style Aluminum rims with P235/70R17 Michelin XLT M/S (Defender LTX) tires all around.
It only hauls maybe 200 to 300 pounds of electronic equipment at the max, once in a while. This is driving me crazy! I always use FORD PARTS for the HUB ASSEMBLIES. Really loosing faith, the front right hub is OEM original - NEVER CHANGED!
I'm new to the site and I've got a 2012 F-150 SuperCrew EcoBoost that has had the front wheel hubs replaced twice. Both hubs two winters ago and one hub last winter. I'm taking it in again tomorrow because the wheels are growling again when turning slightly at low speeds and sometimes without turning. I'm running in 2H, so the hubs should not be engaged. Previous years it was when running in 4H or 4A.
When I took it in, the service manager said it was common this time of year because of the temperature. Always seems to be cold, but not frigid, days here in SD. I asked why I should tolerate having hubs replaced every year, but he can't answer that.
I'm at 36,450 miles/29 months. I'm not beating on it or running in 4wd on dry pavement. Just normal highway miles. I should know more tomorrow after it comes out of the shop.
Got this 04 Escape 3.0 FWD for my son's first car. It was his mom's and she drove it for years and parked it when she got another car.
I charged the battery and it is holding a good charge. Car would crank but not start. Fuel pump was not coming on. I pulled it out and applied 12V to the connector terminal and it started running so I put it back in and it worked fine.
Drove it home and cleaned it up, pulled out the bad window regulator, put it in the driveway till the next weekend.
After it sat for 3 days it would not start again. The fuel pump was not coming on. I assumed that the old pump that I revived had died again so I bought a new one and put it in and it ran fine.
Went for inspection but OBD2 was NOT READY so I drove it about 60 miles until it threw 3 codes. P0136, P2270, P2271 (O2 sensor problem).
I parked it again to wait till my next chance to work on it. 3 days later I was going to replace the O2 sensor but when I tried to start it the new fuel pump was not coming on again. (2nd fuel pump to die while sitting in the driveway).
So I figured the new fuel pump was a dud maybe, so I returned it and got another new one and put it in and it worked fine again. So I replaced the O2 sensor. Didn't have time to drive it 60 miles again to READY the OBD2 system for inspection so I parked it for a couple more days.
2 days later I was going to drive it around to make the OBD2 READY for inspection and again the fuel pump does not come on.
3 dead fuel pumps doesn't make sense to me so I have been considering it could be the Fuel Pump Driver Module but have read that's not an issue on the Escape like it is on the trucks. Plus I have been unable to locate where it is on this vehicle.
Having seen the rather catastrophic outcomes that are possible with inverter coolant pump failure, I've thought a bit about adding a flow sensor in the coolant path. I even went so far as to buy a flow sensor, which would probably do the job. However, it's somewhat heavy, and then there's the plumbing job to take care of. Seemed somewhat challenging to pull off.
Since this aborted endeavor, I began thinking about ways to detect surface turbulence at the top of the coolant tank, and am now thinking that might be easier to pull off, even if it requires programming a PIC to do the monitoring. My current thought is to install an LED and optical sensor in the cap, and measure light intensity received.
I have been through 7 fuel pumps in the last 9 months. I purchased the car 1 1/2 years ago with 95000mi from an elderly lady, pulled the car fax and it had no issues and had been back to the dealer every 3000 for every scheduled maintenance and minor routine maintenance. It is a 2001 SES DOHC 24valve.
9 months ago, the fuel pump died right next to the Ford dealer. It had been randomly quitting on me after I would shut it off for a month or so. Then I would hear it priming and knew it would start. Finally, it just wouldn't start after an hour of trying. Of course, the next morning it did.
Took it to Ford, and it wouldn't do it for them, but they thought it sounded like a fuel pump problem. The next 3 pumps they put in wouldn't register a full tank and would indicate that I was low on gas about 50-60 miles before it should, and when filling it, would only take 12 gallons of gas in the 18 gal tank.
The dealer checked the amount left in the tank and verified that it was an 18 gal tank ( which I already knew) when changing to #4 and finally agreed with me that something was amiss. They thought that maybe # 4 would be better because it came from a different place in a different box. These were all supposed to be genuine motorcraft parts.
The next 4 pumps registered a full tank and I was getting about 300 miles before the check fuel light would come on and would take 15.5-16 gal of gas to fill, which was normal. The problem was that they all died after about 600-700 miles. The dealer said they talked to Ford and they kept telling them the same things to check which they did and were all okay. Things like resistance connections. The last pump #7 failed early in the day and still wouldn't start the next day, but did start after getting it towed to Ford. The dealer attempted to order #8, but Ford had put a hold on all the pumps they had in stock. So either they weren't shipping anymore for me or there was a much widespread problem. They installed a Carquest pump this time. This one doesn't register the right fuel in it either. Not as bad as 1-3, but I am getting about 35-40 miles less than I should before the check fuel light comes on and it is taking about 14 gal to fill.
What Ford may be missing when they change these out that I might pass on? They probably wouldn't listen anyway as it took the first 3 before they actually measured the fuel still in the tank even though I had been telling them it wasn't right.
If # 8 works, should I just live with it not showing a full tank, at least it is working. Either way I am afraid to drive the car to anywhere but work and even that is kind of nerve wracking.
At least the pump has been under warranty every time to I get a loaner and they fix for free, but I want it fixed right!
My 2006 is doing some weird things. I have gone through a couple of HV failures and each time if I got the P0A80 code there was always an additional code telling me what was wrong. Not this time. Some times the battery will sit there while it shows that it is being charged and not take a charge. i.e. not come up off the pink bars, Sometimes it will charge all the way up to green and then fall off dramatically This is really strange because it is not showing any other code other than a crank cam sensor. The 12 volt battery seems to be ok.
View 2 RepliesPower steering out, all gear lights and fuel gauge blinking simultaneously, abs light on, flat tire light on, windows won't work (except driver side still works), display not showing any data, Everyone else works though. I can start the car and drive except it's hard to steer without PS.
View 13 RepliesYesterday I had to replace two right side engine mounts on my 2WD 2004 Honda Element w/ 63K (most short drives in a hilly city). The mechanic saved the old parts for me and sure enough they were really torn up. The lower left side control arm also needed to be replaced and they think the Lower right control arm will need replacing in about 3-4K.
This seems to be a fairly short life for such vital items. I've owned front wheel drive cars before and hadn't had this happen. What gives ( besides the rubber)?
This noise appeared for an hour, haunted us with regular appearances, then disappeared as soon as I drove the car to my trusted mechanic. I never heard the sound over the 6 years we've owned the vehicle and it hasn't come back. This sound was regular and repeated while driving, breaking, stopped in gear and even parked and idling. No vibrations or abnormal operation of the vehicle. Sounded like it was coming from somewhere right in front of the driver. Mechanic was stumped-something in the ABS system. Noise coming from under hood right in front of driver-2.wav.
View 1 RepliesWe are in need of a 4th clutch for our 2004 Elantra. This is a despicable record for Hyundai.
View 14 RepliesA couple months ago, my car suddenly got the red triangle. The dealership said that I needed a new battery, and eventually a new water pump. I couldn't afford $4500 as I bought the car just 9 months earlier and am making payments on the car.
I found a guy that was to "recondition" the battery, which set me back about $1200+. After getting it back, the car has been making a rattle sound in the engine bay when under acceleration (it sounds like a loose screw, but I don't know).
After about a month, I got the red triangle again. The car's performance deteriorates, the state of charge fluctuates a lot more. One minute it is green then literally a minute later it is purple then green again. The guy that reconditioned my hv battery said all the cells are good but for some reason became unbalanced, so he put it on the grid charger and rebalanced it (I believe it was on there for about 24 hours).
2-3 weeks later, it happens again. Same thing, the guy says it is unbalanced again and stuck it on the grid charger (because of time constraints, it was only on the grid for about 5 hours).
Then again 2 weeks later it repeats itself. A couple days before it happened, I tried out the elm327 adapter, custom pids, and torque app. Before the triangle came on, the delta state of charge got to about 0.9% and was charging up to just about 90% and down to just below 39%. Same thing though, from high to low in a matter of less than a minute. Same code P0A80. Sitting on the driveway, all 14 modules would be consistently within .2 volts. But when the car started acting up, I saw a voltage difference of about 3 volts between highest and lowest modules. The repair guy said the same thing again. The cells are good but got unbalanced again. This time he recommended for me to leave the car for the weekend so it can sit on the grid charger for a minimum of 24 hours, which I did. I picked it up yesterday and it's driving fine right now.
He is also recommending that I buy a grid charger and charge the battery every couple weeks to avoid these problems. I mean, how do I know if he actually reconditioned the battery, or has just been resetting the fault code and grid charging the battery? Btw, I did the auxiliary battery test and it was perfect. I don't know when the battery was last replaced but I believe with how strong it is, that is was done sometime recently before purchasing the car late last year.
After searching for the Prius that I wanted, I settled on a 2008 Prius Touring with 171xxx miles. The car was at a sales lot 300 miles away. After a few phone calls pertaining to the Prius, I arranged to meet the lot owner roughly 1/2 way in between for the purchase. We met. Owner said that several dash lights came on as they were driving to meet me. (Yes, I believe him.) He talked with his mechanic, and was told that the problem was most likely the ABS control module (p/n 44510-47050). Owner agreed to shipping me a good used ABS module and discounted the vehicle a bit. I drove it home.
The brake, (!), ABS, and VSC lights are "on"when the car is in the "ready" mode. The parking brake is not on. When I walk up to the car (with SKS fob in my pocket) and open the door, I hear a noise that sounds like water running through an outside faucet that's only partially opened. For identification purpose, I will refer to this noise as a "hissing" noise. When in "ready" mode , the ABS system "cycles", with about 4 seconds hissing, then about 10 seconds not hissing, repeated over and over.
In ready mode (under the hood), the inverter pump is humming away just fine, and the coolant can be seen flowing in it's reservoir. My biggest question is that I have read about others with the unwanted dash lights, but not any with this hissing noise. Does the ABS module replacement sound like it will most likely cure the problem?
And btw, after disconnecting both batteries and waiting for the proper time period, is it really necessary to use the insulated gloves? Years ago, I used Toyota repair manuals, and after receiving the Haynes manual, I'm a bit disappointed.
The brake light switch on my '05 failed Friday. The '04 it replaced and the '03 we still have had brake light switch failures, too. Obviously, this can be pretty dangerous. I suggest that all Passat B5/5.5 owners check their brake lights frequently until VW gets it together and has a recall like they did for other models.
View 4 RepliesSo my windshield washer fluid sensor popped on a couple of months ago, checked fluid (was full), I concluded that it was a failed sensor. I ordered a new one from ECS, put in last wknd, and finally: the low-level warning light disappeared. A few days later, I was adding some fluid into the reservoir (it was a new bottle and had no funnel) and I spilled a few drops. The spilled amount seemed to drop near the sensor plug, but didn't think it was a big deal. Went into work, came out later to head home, and you guessed it: the low-level light came back on (with a FULL reservoir).
I removed the plug yesterday, blew it out, but it didn't change a thing. Anyway, is it possible the sensor shorted because somehow some of the fluid go into the connection? If I hookup the vagcom, will I be able to tell if there is an issue (I know it didn't before when the first sensor failed). Is there even a fuse for the fluid sensor?
1991 F250 Diesel. I'm on my 5th heater core in the past 18 months. This last one lasted less than 500 miles. I'm using the Spectre brand from Autozone. I find it hard to believe i could have gotten 5 bad ones in a row. I have pressure checked the system and it's normal. There is no fluctuations in the readings, so I doubt there is a head gasket issue.
I checked for stray voltage in the coolant and the results never got above .17 volts, but it was usually lower than that. I thought I had an electrolysis issue when I noticed the heater core tubes touching the firewall, so for this last core, I insulated the tubes, but that didn't work. I've checked everything I can think of. The truck has 117K miles on it. I don't drive it much, less than a few thousand miles a year.
I recently purchased my 2011 F150, which is the first new vehicle I've ever owned. I have always changed my own oil, and if possible I would like to continue doing this myself. My only concern is any potential warranty claims down the road.
If I change my own oil can Ford blame any drivetrain failures on me? What should I do to maintain records of my own maintenance to prove I've changed the oil regularly?
I am aware that I must use synthetic oil and a Motorcraft filter.
I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan. This week I encountered the following:
First Symptoms:
1.Red Battery Light
2.Check Engine Light
Action Taken: Since car is 9 years old with original battery, I replaced battery. Boy, that battery was really good.
Symptoms observed after battery installed
1.Red Battery Light
2.Check Engine Light
3.0 reading on Engine Temperature
Action Taken: Tightened battery cable nut and red battery light went out. Took car to local mechanic who found and reported –“Code 1478/Battery Temp Sensor, tested/was overvoltage allowed (4.9 for more than 3.2 seconds). Sensor located internally in PCM. PCM will have to be replaced.”
Symptoms observed on drive home: Drove car home. On the way, the battery and check engine lights went out. Engine coolant temperature came up ¼ scale. Cruise control would not work. Later, during drive, the battery and check engine lights came back on, cruise control continued to be nonfunctional, engine temperature gauge went to 0.
Action Taken: Took car to local dealer who replaced the PCM at a cost of $605 for the part and $135 for labor.
Subsequent Observations: After 45 miles on the drive home the check engine light came on.The car was driven 2 days later. Battery light came on for about 5 miles then went off; check engine light remained on for the entire drive (~40 miles); cruise control remained nonfunctional and coolant temperature indicator read about ¼ scale.
What is/are the likely cause(s) of all these problems and what can I do? We've had very few problems with this car to this point, but these issues are really getting expensive fast.
I have a 2014 Camry SE with 35k miles. About six weeks ago the drivers side front power door lock actuator failed and was replaced by the dealer under warranty. Last week the front passenger side actuator failed and was replaced. Today, both rear door lock actuators stopped working.
I searched the forums and didn't find anything like this happening to other owners. It sounds like I have something burning up the actuators. I am very concerned because the new car warranty is up in less than 1000 miles and I could have an electrical problem on my hands. The actuators that have been replaced seem to be working fine. How I can handle this?
I have a question regarding oil burning by the 2GR-FE V6. My avalon is a 2006 xls/navi, 160 000 km, very well maintained, only synthetic oil changes (AMSOL 5w-30, but switching to 10w-30 now that the oil burning began). All the recalls were done on it already, it was dealer maintained till 65k then I took over when we bought the car. The only other issue I had with it were the 3 consecutive ignition coil failures (by the way, you must replace those with oem toyota parts, I tried saving money on aftermarket and the results were discouraging).
View 2 RepliesSo I am just wrapping up getting my head gaskets done for the second time. Last time was 7 yrs ago. Truck now has 90K mi on it and I have had nothing but Matt's tunes on it since the head gaskets were done originally. I have only towed once and I put the 8K tow tune on for that trip.
ARP studs were used but heads were not decked then. OEM gaskets, done by Ford.
So a head gasket failures with ARP studs and doing everything else the FTE way?
New heads are decked and o-ringed. Planning to go a little more gentle with the tuning, but don't really want to. Driving it stock just sucks.