Dodge :: 1973 - After Replacing Battery No Power To Anything?
Jan 3, 2012
I have recently purchased a 1973 dodge sportsman motorhome. I went to change the battery because the one in it was too small. After replacing the battery I have no power to anything at all and it wont even try to crank. When I put the new battery in I noticed a smaller red wire with a flat plug on one end hanging loose. Where does this go and what is it for? the new battery has full juice but I have no power to anything. No lights no radio....nothing!
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I'm stumped with my 1973 Fiat 850 Spider. This little car has a grand total of 10 fuses, 8 below the dashboard, and two in the rear where the engine is. So, it's not that complicated, right? Wrong.
So here's the story: I purchased this little car in Philly. Everything works, except after a few days, I noticed that the car battery was out. So I jump it and allow the alternator to recharge it. It runs fine for a few days until it goes dead again. It reaches the point where it's completely dead, no service light, no radio, nothing.
I figured I bought a car with an old battery. I replaced it with a new one from Walmart. It runs great for a few days until gradually no charge again. I take it to a shop to fix something else, they test the battery and they tell me it's bad, that I bought a brick. OK, bad luck, right?
I replace the Walmart battery for another one under the warranty. What can go wrong now? Well, the same symptoms appeared after a few days. By now, surely it cannot be the battery. So I know what you're thinking. My little convertible has a parasitic draw. But remember, it has only 10 fuses, no power windows, no power locks, no computer, no software, no Bluetooth...gish, it has a push-button AM radio, for crying out loud!
So I proceed to recharge the battery. I trickle charged it for 18 hours or so. The battery is now back to new. I then connected my meter in series to the negative pole to measure the amps, expecting as you would imagine a draw of at least 4 amps. Well, the little devil has a draw of only .35 amps, well below the acceptable level for a car this type (right?).
So what gives? Does the car have gremlins or parasites? Am I going crazy? Can I be so unlucky that I have had three bad batteries in a row (even from Walmart)? Am I missing something?
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Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
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My father passed down his 1973 Chevy C-10 pickup truck to me and my family. It's been our 'runner' truck for many years going to the mountains for wood, lumber from the store, garbage and yard debris...etc. Unfortunately, it recently has been starting and warming up just fine, but once it's running as I'm driving away from stops or even holding speed on the highway the power 'fades' from the engine and it lugs like it is in gear, but flooded and lurches as the engine seems to 'catch up'. I have replaced the carb(holly quadrajet), fuel pump, fuel filters, battery, fuel lines, throttle cable, distributor cap (ceramic piece too), alternator and more...we still can't get it figured out. NOW the truck won't start or turn over - have we reached the end of it's life no matter what we do? What is left to replace? I don't think we can afford much more $ to fix it. We also found that somehow water was in the gas tank, which we think was from a kid in the neighborhood messing around. Could that have made a permanent issue?
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I wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
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Where can I purchase a distributor for a 2003 Dodge Neon SE?
The engine is running rough, the gas mileage has degraded, and the Check-Engine light is ON.We went to an AutoParts Store to have them read the car's computer output to tell us why the Check-Engine light is ON.The results said that the No. 4 Cylinder was not firing consistently.We replaced all four spark plugs and the spark plug wires. It ran a little better but the Check-Engine light is still ON and the engine still runs rough. I think we should replace the distributor or maybe just the distributor cap (if possible?).
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I tried to jump my phaeton and it would click but not completely turn over and i absolutely cant get it to start. the radio, lights, windows, and things of that nature are still working. So i need to know how to replace the battery i.e. (disconnecting it and can i replace it with a battery from an auto store?) If not, how much should i expect to spend and what else could it possibly be??
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I have replaced the battery, the alternator is good. I turn the key ignition on and NOTHING. All lights turn on and go off after a few seconds. No clicking noise. It turns om quickly when it is jumped.
I can re enter car a few times, but after a day or so the same problem. What can I check to solve this problem.
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I have a used 2002 hyundai Elantra gt that I've owned since the 4th. I bought this car and everything was fine but I had to put a new battery in it because the previous owner was taking hers. A week after replacing the battery the car died, I thought maybe it was a bad battery so I replaced that one also and the car ran for about 2 days and then died again. I replaced the alternator last Monday and again the car ran until this past Thursday. I took the alternator back and had it tested and it failed. So I went to a different shop and had an alternator tested before purchasing it and it passed. Put the alternator in but the car won't stay on longer than 30 min.
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2011 Toyota Prius Two, not II,smart key device (FOB) is not funational (can not open doors, etc) after replacing battery, and now how to fix, re-sync, etc?
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Codes indicate bad battery block 10. One of the cells in block 10 had lower voltage than any other cell in the battery. Ordered new cell and replaced it. The 12V battery was never disconnected, but the battery ECU was disconnected to allow it to be moved out of the way for bolt access.
After reassembling the battery with the replaced cell, the no-load voltage of the battery is 215V. The car powers up with the alarm indicators still on (as expected) but putting the car in drive and pressing the accelerator has no effect. I double checked my connections. The HV relays are not being energized. Do the codes need to be reset before the car will move?
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I bought a new battery for my passat 2001 1.8t, installed it last night car turned on fine. Today turned on fine again I took a ride to the store when I came back the car did not turn on. I go a jump nothing, but the battery had plenty of juice. Lights, radio everything turns on. When I turn the key it doesn't crank at all, and all the dash lights come on. I noticed the alarm does not sound when I manually lock the door. I bought a battery for my keyless remote and noticed the alarm doesn't turn on that way either, nor do the locks function with the remote. Could it possibly have to do with the alarm being deactivated?
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I left the lights on last night in our Santa Fe, and drained the battery.
Took the battery out and up to O'Reilly and they recharged it for me on their charger. When re-installing the battery the car alarm goes off as soon as I attach both battery cables. Turning the key in the ignition doesn't kill the alarm.
How do I reset the alarm and shut it up?
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Read previous post about the clock and battery. But I've replaced the car battery and the clock still isn't working. It gets stuck at whatever time I set it to. And I've also noticed the colons do not blink on the clock.
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I pulled the traction battery...remanned it with great success computer very happy with results... drove it for a week. Took it to Walmart to have oil changed... Got in car , started fine...new oil made motor even smoother....then in 200 yards at traffic light , motor died with unusual sound... pulled over and restarted...but would die. Lights all over dash on.
made it back to oil bay...engine would not restart.
pushed inside and would start and then die... then was rattling when dying
checked aux battery with testers , both indicated dead cell 10.25 volts
tried to substitute a new battery via heavy jumpers... got it to start then die..,..then no try at all
I have read forums ,,,that indicate after 3 tries on a dead aux battery , computer will immobilize it
Have tried replacing with a new lawn tractor battery .but seems the car is immobized . Read codes with Mini VCI, and was able to clear all codes but the immobilizer code.
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I put a new battery in my 2007 LS460 and it lit up all kinds of vsc, brake, abs, pcs, stop the vehicle immediately, etc. A 30 minute freeway trip, then 1 hr turned off has not changed anything.
Background: no warnings before the dead battery, but the rear window would reverse when it got part way. I was monkeying with it, and found the weather seal crimped right there. I left the ignition on by mistake. 8 hours later, the 1 year old battery was dead. I hooked up a good charger and it nearly cranked 20 minutes later with the charger connected so I left it until the charger said it was done and unhooked it. There were no dash lights and my voltmeter read something like 3 volts.
I pulled it out and replaced it, which cranked right up and runs great, but has all these errors. I'm having trouble walking right now, but when I get a chance, I'll check the voltage on the new battery in case the car isn't charging, but I would have expected the two long drives yesterday to kill the battery again if it wasn't. I also have a ScanGaugeE which I may use to read and reset the codes.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L Engine and recently replaced the Battery and Spark Plugs myself. My car has 55,000 miles and I have had all the normal maintenance performed. The maintenance guide suggested the plugs be replaced at 45,000 miles I waited until 55,000 as I was not having any problems. The last couple of trips to auto shop showed the battery slowing losing the ability to retain a charge so it thought might as well replace now rather than later.
After changing the battery and plugs I went to fill up my Car with Gas and the MPG dropped. Normally when I fill up the car with gas the dashboard of my car would show 420 miles until empty. Recently when I filled up the car it showed 370 miles until empty. I am thinking this is due either to replacing the battery and having the computer reset or I set the gap on one or more plugs wrong. The car is not misfiring so I am thinking it is the replacement of the battery and resetting the computer. I was going to run the care for a couple of tanks and see if the MGP change. I am also going to monitor the mileage and see if it matches the overall MPG.
Is my thinking about the battery and computer resetting correct?
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My Prius has 150k miles on it. We didn't drive it for a few days and when we went to turn it on,it wouldn't work. We were able to jump start it a couple of times, however after that we ended up having to replace the battery. We purchased it brand new from toyota. Then, the car wouldn't do a thing (No sounds, no lights, other than the red amber power button and the flashing check engine light, which was not on before.) We ended up having two blown fuses and we replaced them today, one was for the battery.Now the lights are on, but the car still won't start. It will cost over $200 to have the car towed and I am really trying to avoid that right now. I don't know much at ALL about cars. but I'm trying.
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Have 155,000 miles on my 2000 Echo, just replaced O2 sensors (probably needlessly, I see now) before I found a loose hose at air filter area, which when I connected it, caused the CE light to finally go out (P0171 code originally)...already cleaned old, then ordered a new, MAF before I found the loose hose, so think I'll go ahead and install the new MAF anyway...do I need to disconnect the battery to install it? Afraid the darned CE light will come back on, but guess I can again drive it awhile and hope it will go out when the computer stuff resets itself.
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I have a 05 Avalon keyless ignition that I have recently replaced the battery because the car wouldn't start not even with a jump. With new battery everything comes on in the dash as normal, but the car won't start. Could it be the starter is gone bad or could it be a fuse?
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We just replaced the Traction battery in my 2004 prius. The car has 242,000 miles on it and was running fine when we pulled it in. The battery was purchased used from a 2005 prius with just over 80k on the clock. The replacement battery was removed from the wrecked prius less than a month ago.
The problem is that after installing the new traction battery, every thing looks great except the Ready light will not come on. There are no warning lights except the little red light that indicates there is no key in the car. The key will remotely lock and unlock the car so I'm sure the battery is not dead and the no-key light stays on even if I insert the key into the key slot on the dash. The shifter will only move from Park to Neutral.
What am I doing wrong? Is there some special procedure to go through to make the car recognize the key after replacing the battery?
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