Engines - Lights - Suzuki - Transmissions - Aerio :: CEL On While Driving And Car Stop Downshifting From 3rd Gear
Mar 15, 2011
I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
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I have an '04 Suzuki Aerio, and there is a loud popping or knocking sound coming from the front of the car when I drive it. I don't seem to hear it when the car is inert (i.e. idling or traveling in a straight at a constant speed). I hear it intermittently when I accelerate/decelerate or turn. I hear it in drive and reverse. The strange thing is that it seems to go away completely when it is raining, and then come back when it stops raining and things dry out. It has been happening for a month or two. I think it has been gradually getting a bit louder. What could cause this?
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I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
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Some time late last year a branch or something managed to rip my filter off my cold air intake.. the check engine light came on and I ignored it, simply thinking I had not tightened the gas cap.
So last week, I went to get my 2003 Suzuki Aerio SX, with 160K miles inspected, and they told me it was through a code that the mass air flow sensor was bad.. Later they find out my filter is just missing.. the clamp and a section of the rubber was still on the tip.. but the rest of long gone.
So I have been driving, 4 or 5K miles with no filter. I buy some mass air flow sensor cleaner, spray it and now my car idles at just under 2K RPM but slowly creeps up to around 3K RPM. It drives fine, but when I pop it out of gear or hold the clutch down. it starts to go nuts.
I put a brand new K&N filter on, I didn't add any oil to it as it didn't say it needed any and it wasn't dry, but not soaked either.
Now when I went to remove my Mass Airflow Sensor, I did remove a couple other parts first by mistake. I fiddled with the temperature sensor inside my cold air intake, but I couldn't get it out due to the rubber ring around it holding it in and sealing it. I also removed the Fuel Injection Manifold Pressure Sensor but I am pretty sure I put it back on fine. and I did remove the Throttle Position Sensor.. so maybe thats my issue?
what should I do to troubleshoot it?
I sprayed wd40 on the throttle above the engine, not sure if it was it or not but my engine was idling at a lower 1800 rmp for a while, still high but not as bad, I took it for a ride around the block and when I got back it was at 3K again, it did run at a steady 20 mph in second gear with my foot off the gass completely.
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I do not know much about cars. I tried to consult my owners manual, but no luck. The problem is this. I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with about 73,000 miles on it. When I have my blower on (regardless if hot or cold, ambient, defrost, or AC) and I turn left, my car starts making a "shoof" noise kind of like a large stack of paper falling over. Just today I noticed that the floor of my front passenger area was wet and discovered that there is also a leak or leaks coming down from behind my glovebox when I make these left turns. If I don't have the blower on, there is no noise and (presumably) no leak. The contents of my glovebox are completely dry. I am at a loss as to what is causing this.
What this is, whether it is serious, and can I fix this myself or do I have to take it in? And if I have to take it in to get fixed, how should this problem be described in order to get it fixed properly? I had brought it in to a Midas a few weeks ago about the noise (before I discovered the leak and the air-dependence of the problem) and the guys there said that they heard the noise but thought it was just my wheel rubbing against the wheel well when making sharp turns and that it wasn't that big of a problem.
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Weird problem I've had for some time... The car makes a noise that sounds like a slipping belt and only does so at a speed of 15 mph or more. Its a manual and I know it can't be a belt because I've done a little testing while driving. I'm going down a hill, put it in neutral, turn the engine off completely and coast down the hill and the noise is still there. So nothing in the engine is turning at this point, I'm just rolling. So what is moving at this point that could make such a noise?
It also makes the noise when the engine is running and what's weird is I can almost make it go away (the cycles of the noise become less and less frequent if that makes sense) while in gear if I apply the gas just a touch to a point where I am neither accelerating or decelerating. What this noise might be?
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i just recently went to a mechanic check out my wife's car cause it was vibrating really bad, and a pulley was making a lot of noise... they told me that the alternator bearings were shot, and i needed 4 motor mounts, long story short i changed the alternator.... it wasn't the problem... had them check it again, they said power steering.... i didn't want to waist a couple hours of work again, i checked it myself like i should have done in the first place... and found out it was the tensioner pulley.... so can i get any pointers on how to change the tensioner pulley, cause i tried and i lacked about 1/4" of space to get the bolt out... do i need to drop the engine or raise it? if so how.. 2005 suzuki aerio 2.3L .....
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We just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating.
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The car is a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with 68k miles on it. I've owned the car since 25k miles, and performed all maintenance on time. The car was also maintained well before we owned it (receipts). I've taken it to our garage 5 times now, for the same noise. Here is the timeline of events:
1) Two months ago started making two noises (rattle over bumps and a faint clunk on driver's side when turning). Garage replaced control arm assembly on both sides.
2) Took it back a week later because it was still making clunk (It got worse over this week, and then stayed at this level. I can feel it under the driver's side floor board. Sounds like a clunk/cracking noise) and was making a new rattle. Garage said their air wrench was messing up the first day and a heat shield came loose.
3) Another week later, still making clunk and making yet another weird rattle/grinding noise over bumps. Garage said this time that it's another loose bolt on the control arm assembly. Tightened and double checked everything. They seemed apologetic and embarrassed about the loose bolts.
4) Another two weeks later, still making the clunking noise. I take it back and take our mechanic for a ride. He hears it. I call back later that day and they say they can't find anything wrong with it (checked struts, front suspension, and cv joint). I speak with a different mechanic and he tells me "we don't do any fancy hard turning when we take the cars for test drives. We drive them like most people with old cars drive them." This seems to infer, to me, that it's only making this noise because I drive my car hard. Fyi, I drive reasonably. They say they had my mechanic, the other mechanic, the shop owner (who was on vacation that week), and ANOTHER mechanic from a different garage looking at it, and they can't find what's wrong. Bring it back next week.
5) Yesterday, they say they looked everything over and couldn't find anything wrong. Said they would have to diagnose it by feel. I have to work, but my husband picks it up and says they said it's play in the drive shaft causing this noise, and that they didn't seem worried about it. I only paid for the first visit.
Does this sound reasonable? Should I take it somewhere else for a second opinion? It does it on turns weather I'm on the gas or not. I like this car and I'm hoping to keep it for at least a few more years.
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I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
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I am having issues that i think are related to the transmission.
When I am stopped and the car is in drive it starts to vibrate significantly however once i start moving again the vibrations stop.
Switching to neutral or reverse also causes the vibrations to stop.
I am thinking that somehow the transmission is not fully disengaging when the break is pressed like it is supposed to but i may be way off on this.
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So I have two issues one bad and one worse both while driving in the rain. Hyundai Elantra 2010 Automatic 4cyl, Bad scenario: the car refuses to shift (up/down) after something is getting wet, just this morning we had really nasty rain and this happened car feels like it's stuck in second gear. RPM was @ 3000 while going 45/50 MPH is this normal? But you can feel and hear the car is not shifting up or down while stopping at a light MPH 0 RPM 1000 when accelerating from the stop I have to press the pedal more the usual almost like no power and RPMs just go back up to 3000 and still can't feel the shifting from 1rst to 2nd almost like its just stuck in 2nd..
Worse scenario: Same instance driving in the rain - something gets wet? and my engine/trans ? all the sudden jerks/kicks with a thump/thud noise the jerk and noise might be at the same time the car is shifting between gears not sure. If I keep trying to drive it keeps kicking and jerking so I don't tempt it in case I make something worse off, one time this happened I had to keep going to get off the road safely and it did through the engine light on the rain stopped while I was pulled over so I sat for an hour let it dry out some and the car ran fine.. What could this be??? When the car is dry runs just fine, I even had the dealer do some trouble shooting 2 weeks ago cuz I had the worse happen and had to have it towed and he couldn't re-create the prob. nor find what it could be..
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I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
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I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
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Here's the situation -- 2009 Camry, 32,000 mi. No recalls on record for its VIN. Parked in parking lot and preparing to leave. NOTE: At no time does my foot touch the gas pedal. OK...Foot on brake. Start engine, shift to reverse and back up under idle power. Turn wheel to align for departure and stop. Foot still on brake; shift into drive. Uncommanded (by me) engine RPM shoots up! Now hard on brake to stop forward lurch while simultaneously shifting to neutral. Engine RPM now screaming. Shut off ignition. Again, no touching of gas petal in this whole process. Turn the car back on and all it normal All has been normal for a month. Can't get the incident to repeat. No "check engine" lights at any time. Car operates perfectly.
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My 01 tundra can bog down under load - going up a long hill or towing a trailer - with the speed and RPMs steadily dropping until it finally downshifts, and the RPMS shoot up to 4k or so, but I don't regain much speed. This is without cruise control. If I have the cruise control on the problem does not occur. The truck slows, but in a normal way expected under the circumstances. The CEL is not on. No codes are being recorded. The Tranny fluid is full and smells fine.
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2002 Suzuki XLZ 4WD. It has 149,000 miles, has had a new starter, new fuel pump and lines, and new brakes in the past year. Bought it a couple of weeks ago and took it straight to shop, so I have no personal history with this car.
Now: have replaced all catalytic converters and exhaust pipe. Have also replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor.
Great news - all computer codes are cleared. Runs great when in park or neutral (30 min or more). Mechanics then moved it around parking lot with no problem, so they trusted it enough to take it on a test drive on the open road. Made it out of sight of shop (not sure how far, but it was an improvement over the last time!)...but required tow back.
Hooked back up to diagnostic computer, and found NO error codes. They are doing what they call "exploratory surgery" (yikes). Am I wrong in thinking this is probably a TPS issue? What are the other things that could cause this inconsistent power/stalling when it is put in gear?
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My nice little 2002 GL 1.6 has 160K+ on it. Lately, when I come to a stop, I get a thump when she downshifts. I don't know which gear exactly, but it happens when the car reaches 10 MPH and below, so maybe when it goes into first? It is just as the car stops, it seems.
More recently, it seems as if when I get just about stopped, it feels as if she completely disengages from drive and goes into neutral. But it doesn't actually do that, she is fine when I take off. She upshifts just fine, it's just that last little bit when coming to a stop.
I have never had the transmission messed with very much, but I know it was serviced a few years ago. I did add a little fluid a few weeks ago after I checked it, and I was very careful to purchase the exact correct fluid.
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We have a 2010 Tiguan SEL 4 motion automatic and today it just died after i pulled out of parking spot. the only light on the dash was the battery light. I restarted once i put it in neutral. When driving home my wife and i notice it was not downshifting when going down hill or when coming to a stop. This is not the usual behavior. It also seemed like it was costing in neutral when i was not in the throttle. I dropped it off at my usual dealer and hopefully they can duplicate it.
I am wondering if the battery or alternator is bad and the transmission computer was not getting good voltage and that made it act funny.
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My freshly rebuilt C6 with Transgo shift kit and Hughes 2500 stall converter won't downshift until I'm nearly at a dead stop. My Cruisomatic did the same thing in stock form. I roll up to an intersection and the light is green. I slow way down to negotiate the turn. I then throttle when headed straight and the tranny is still in Drive. It does the same thing when slowing way down for speed bumps. Could the shift kit or stall converter affect downshifts?
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My wife drives a Suzuki XL7 from 2007 with approximately 70000 miles on board. While driving the engine hesitates and the revs drop suddenly, not much but it is visible on the dash and the car shakes. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter is fine, and it is still doing it. I was thinking about changing the fuel filter however the filter is not serviceable in this car, it is part of the fuel pump assembly. A mechanic checked the fuel pressure and it appears it is fine. There are no warning light on the dash, no check engine light on and the car accelerates just fine if you give it gas. It has no problem starting and I have not noticed doing the same thing while idling, though this issue is intermittent. My wife stated that the problem happens regardless if the engine is cold or hot.
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