Ford - Expedition :: 1998 XLT Won't Go Over 60 Mph Highway
Apr 2, 2013
Not sure if it's transmission issues, on the road it took me to a neighbor city with no issues, but on my way back, while running it went from 70mph to 57-60mph and it won't let me go faster, it will not rev up more than 2000rpms, if i step further on the gas it will struggle to rev up, it will, but speed won't go faster, engine just had been rebuilt, it has no catalytic converters. I live in mexico, instead it has 2 "silencers" which were just installed as well since it was making a lot of noise through the exhaust.
Been driving it in the city, (no more than 35mph) with no problems at all, all gears feel great, but haven't tried to go up to 60mph again. Expedition XLT 1998 4x4 ....
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My 98 expedition 5.4 starts fine the time but after it warms up it just cranks and cranks tell it finally starts.what might be the issue?
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My heater/AC fan only works on high. how do i get the low and medium settings to work?
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My daughters boyfriend was driving his 98 Expedition this evening and it died. From what he is telling me, he said it just all of a sudden lost power. As he was coasting to the side of the road, he said the RPMs where fluctuating then died. It cranks but won't start. No "theft" light flashing. All fuses under the hood are good. Turning the key, can not hear the fuel pump pressurizing.
No pressure at the Schroeder valve on the fuel line. While trouble shooting, found where someone had done a hack job of splicing the ground battery cable, wire was just folded over to hold together. As we were towing it home, they said there was a beeping coming from behind the glove box, which is where the PCM is I think. Kinda stuck on whether it could be PCM or fuel pump.
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Today my 98 Expedition just started at 50 mph or 3000 rpm with battery light flickering and voltage fluctuation toward high end of 18 volts. Battery is 1 month old. No problems under 45 mph or 2500 rpm.
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1998 Expedition EB, the lights on my running boards do not work. Checked online and can not locate the fuse for them, checked the lamps and found one that is burnt out. Here's the dumb question, if one bulb is out will that make the other three not work, something like the Christmas light strings?
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. It was running fine until last Mon. On my 3rd start of the day , it wouldn't stay started long enough to get into gear; sometimes it sputtered violently. I tried starting over the next 2 days with the same outcome so I towed it to mechanic. They replaced spark plugs, wires & started (because it was throw lower voltage than normal). It ran fine the short distance home. The next day, it started fine but sputtered in corners/lower speeds. About 12 miles into the drive, which was at ~60 mph, my auto died and wouldn't start again. What's going on? Could it be the fuel pump?
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4X4 two owner and only 63K miles. All service records including tranny flush. Tranny shifts fine, there are no "clunks" when shifting out of Park.The only symptom is an occasional bump or thud ( maybe more like a jolt )coming from underneath at the rear at highway speeds. Sometimes it is more pronounced than others. I don't believe RPMs change when this happens. Around town is fine and only at constant speeds above 55 which makes it difficult to recreate. I have checked for anything loose underneath ( incl spare tire ) and can't find anything.
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I own a 98 Deville with 125k miles and bad upper rear knuckle bushings, seems common. At highway speeds, the rear of the car floats noticeably and on a rainy road, it is down right dangerous to drive. My logic is that it is a BUSHING! They make all different sizes and surely there is bushing that is the size I need and a way to press out the old and press in the new. I have the right rear off the car now and will pay a visit to my local mom and pop automotive machine shop to see what can be done. Even if they need to bore out the inside diameter of the knuckle to accept an over sized bushing, there has got to be a way.
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I had overheating problem on the highway. Towed car to Automotive Clinic - They said I needed new radiator and hoses, so I installed. Couple weeks later, overheats again, this time said I need new head gasket, so I go ahead. Soon as I get back, my car overheats AGAIN. Now back in the shop, and they told me the head gasket blew again...they have taken all apart, and now say they can't find out whats wrong. The coolant is leaking, but they don't know why...it failed hydrocarbon testing. What can it be?
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1998 discovery. Replaced fuel pump, crank shaft sensor, battery is good, had tune -up. Driving on highway and car just loses engine power, still have radio, lights, etc. Pull over and start it right back up. Drive about 15 minutes more and it happens again. Starts again. Then it does it again, but now won't start. Clicking sound in dash on passenger side. I leave it sit for 2 days. Starts right up, then rpms start revving then stops and dies. I have had every diagnostic known run, no codes coming up. I have had local mechanic keep it for days to drive it. He is also at a loss. I am REALLY tired of replacing random parts to no avail. Not to mention the $$ I have spent.
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I took my 1998 Infiniti I30 to my mechanic for routine maintenance, and I noticed the engine was working a tiny bit harder to startup and to accelerate on highway in the last 2 weeks. They discovered the air filter and housing were completely burnt out! We're scratching our heads. Internet search and check with other mechanics- no clues. It's been a dream for years with routine maintenance, has only 125k, last service May 2013 since I only drove it 5K since then. I'm the only driver and it sleeps in my garage (secure, no rodents). What the heck?
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My 1998 Nissan Altima 4 cyl (auto) shut down on highway, would not restart, and had to be towed. My mechanic told me it is the computer. After seeing prices for new ECMs from a Nissan parts site, I am wondering if something else needs to be replaced. I don't want to put that kind of money into a 14 year old car with other problems and mileage of 155,000. Could whatever caused the computer to stop working be an additional cost. The mechanic provided minimal information and is actually recommending I get rid of the car due to a slow oil leak and control arm bushings that eventually need to be replaced. However, it just passed inspection and a few months ago, I replaced 4 tires and brake rotors.
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When my 1999 Ford Expedition is turned off and sitting there, even for hours, the defrosting fan comes on by itself. I can feel cold air coming through the vents inside the car. The fan will turn off if I turn on the key or even if I step on the brake pedal, with the car still off. It won't stay off until I disconnect the battery. It seems to occur only when the temperature drops, like below freezing (coincidence??).
The other day, I left the fan running for several hours, it never turned off, I then disconnected the battery. It ran the battery down. Randomly/intermittently the dashboard clock, windshield wiper, or radio won't work when the car is running. I recently bought a new battery . I recently replaced the outside mirrors. Also, the passenger side window won't go up or down using the passenger side control but will using the drivers side control.
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I bought a used 1999 Expedition Eddie Bauer about 2 years ago. It has been a great truck until recently. The A/C system now only has hot air in the front. I can still get cold air in the back.
The truck has the EATC and I ran a diagnostics check and no faults were reported. Additionally, I can push the buttons on the control module and all the air comes out in the correct positions.The only fault is the lack of cold air.
I have seen bunches of threads about Blend Door failures. I reviewed "lvmilkman2002" thread on the blend door motor. However, on my Expedition when I removed what he detailed it appears to be a blower motor and not a Blend Door Motor. I reviwed the other threads and the actuator that is talked about that you can access from behind the glovebox is also not there.
Where can this actuator be located and how can you check it for operation!!! I am going to attempt this repair this Friday while I have a long holiday weekend.
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The AC was blowing hot air. But then we noticed that we could hear a flap closing. So the game has been, to keep it cold, to stop somewhat abruptly, then turn on the AC, then DO NOT accelerate quickly or you will hear the "shut" which makes the air turn hot.
Now, I have gone to auto zone and bought two things: Air Door Actutator, and Blend Door Repair Kit, both supposed to be for 1999 Expedition. I don't yet know which I need. I am looking to do the fix through the glove compartment which I understand is possible, although no one mentioned it here back in 2004.
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I have a 2006 Ford Expedition that runs perfectly with one exception, It will shut off all of a sudden. I can be driving down the highway or in town and all of a sudden it will just stop running. This has happened twice in the past six months. So far I have been able to get to the side of the road safely.the vehicle will immediately start and run perfectly as if nothing has happened. No error codes.
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I have an '01 ford expedition. the cruise control was working fine up til a week ago. Now it will not turn on. I checked the fuse. I have a mechanical aptitude, and no money to put it in the shop. How to troubleshoot?
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I just bought a used 2008 Expedition XLT and the rear ac was working on the first day of ownership. On the next day it worked on way to the park but on the way back the rear ac didn't come on. I have tried both the front a rear controls. I can hear a single click sound coming from the rear of the truck (blower area) when I switch the AC on and as I click though the speeds but no air flow or sound form the motor itself. The front AC is working fine but I am not sure where to start trouble shooting the rear ac issue. I have found other issues complaining about clicking sounds and bad actuator but could this be the issue if I am only here a single click.
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So I just got myself an 03 Eddie Bauer 5.4 Expedition.
It's been sitting for at least 2 years and the exterior is in great condition. Other than tires, spark plugs, oil change, antifreeze, and possible tranny fluid change, what else should I look into replacing / fixing?
I bought this vehicle to be used as a daily driver and sit on the weekends, but I'm not sure how neglected it is, I bought if off some close relatives who really never used it. It has 180k miles roughly and like I said, it's been sitting for 2 years.
I've done a fair amount of research on oil/fuel additives like Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, Lucas, etc. A lot of mixed opinions on it, and it seems to be a case by case kinda thing.
I just want this vehicle to last and run well. I'll do anything recommended to make sure it's running well
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I am working on my wife's 2006 Expedition limited with rear air (AC charge of 58 oz). The AC wasn't working so I checked it and it was very low on charge. I figured it was leaking so I added some 134a with dye. In one day it was very low again (like almost no charge). There was dye and oil all over the pump. I figure it is leaking out of a seal on the shaft (I could be wrong about that though, either way the pump is shot).
I remove the pump and got about 1 oz of oil out of it. I also drained the accumulator and got just a few drops out. I have a feeling most of the oil leaked out with the 134 because it was leaking so bad. The new pump came with 150 ml (5 oz) of oil in it. I am now installing it with the oil in it. How much oil should I add/ remove?
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