Ford Expedition :: 2005 - AC Not Working / Low On Charge
May 6, 2012
I am working on my wife's 2006 Expedition limited with rear air (AC charge of 58 oz). The AC wasn't working so I checked it and it was very low on charge. I figured it was leaking so I added some 134a with dye. In one day it was very low again (like almost no charge). There was dye and oil all over the pump. I figure it is leaking out of a seal on the shaft (I could be wrong about that though, either way the pump is shot).
I remove the pump and got about 1 oz of oil out of it. I also drained the accumulator and got just a few drops out. I have a feeling most of the oil leaked out with the 134 because it was leaking so bad. The new pump came with 150 ml (5 oz) of oil in it. I am now installing it with the oil in it. How much oil should I add/ remove?
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My power locks stopped working completely (remote or switch, lock or unlock.) I didn't have any problems with them until 2 days ago, after work it wouldn't unlock.
The fuse is good (#3 under hood fuse box), I can't find the relays, but since there are 3 of them I don't think they are the problem. I have power at the fuse and 2 wires going to the PDL switch, I also have ground to 2 wires going to the PDL switch. It's probably as simple as a broken wire or corroded connector, but I'd rather not pull the whole dash if I don't have to, but I need to fix it so I can open the rear hatch which is locked and its lock cylinder is gummed up so I can't use the key.
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Lubricating each door switch has not work to fix the "door ajar" issue on a 2003 Ford Expedition EB model. I have traced both front door wires to a single harness plug, but have not been able to find a pin-out description. Where on the wire harness each door ajar switch can be tested?
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My 03 Expedition A/C quit working, the compressor was cycling on and off so I took it in to be recharged thinking it was low. They said was completely out and it took 3.5lbs to recharge although they couldn't find any signs of leaking. When they recharged it they put more dye in to find the leak, the technician said he suspected a compressor since it was completely empty and had been working in the spring.
I was hoping it was a compressor as I have changed one before on my 97 Expedition and am pretty comfortable with it, however I can't see any thing leaking using a UV light. I have checked the compressor and every line I can see all the way back to the rear (it has rear air). When they recharged it worked very good for about 8 days on the 9th day it was working and went from blowing cold to hot instantly. Where or what to look for??
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While driving along my Expedition will completely shut down, ignition, all accessories, everything, for a few seconds then come back alive. It happens generally up hills or around right turns.
It is like the main ground strap is loose and losing contact momentarily. I don't know where to look for this. Engine was replaced 1500 miles ago. Battery and all visible connections seem ok.
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My '05 Expedition will be driving normal at highway speeds, and when I need to apply a little more throttle to start up a hill I get a shutter thru the truck that sounds and feels like driving over a rumble strip. It doesn't last but just a second or two, but it happens frequently. Is it something in the 4wd? Transmission? or.......?
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Reverse works great....engine revs and barely pulls in drive. Not sure yet if it actually changes gears. I am planning on replacing tranny. I have a few questions :
1: Could it be something more simple like a selonoid or ???
2: What all trannys will fit? this is the 2wd 5.4 liter xlt ...
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What is the color wire coming out of the fuse box for the Trailer Tow Battery Charge? It's number 115 in the fuse box and a 20amp FMX fuse I believe. It's a 2005 6.0l 2WD Eddie Bower Excursion...
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Just made it back from out of state hunting trip,driving to get new tires. And heard a bump sound , Driving about 40 mph and tack jumped from around 1800 rpm to 4500. Engine' smooth and parameters good . However will drive in low and 2 nd gear approximate 25 mph. When select drive will not shift into high without slipping an rapid rpm increase. Currently 135k service record's and general appearance were well maintained....
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My wife has been complaining about a noise from her 2005 expo.
As she drove the truck today I have narrowed the noise down to the right side of the half shaft. From looking underneath and comparing what I was seeing and hearing, the track bar is not centered. Its more in on the driver side and out on the passenger side. I had her to stand on the running board and shake the truck.
I can definitely hear a kinda cluck? It sounds like the half shaft going to the tire but at the same time the bushing on the outer tire rod end. I can't determine what it is exactly.
when you rock the truck you can definitely hear it. Its not like violent loud but i'd like to get it taken care of. I looked for some grease points but I don't see none..
2nd question for the grease points that I do see how much do I grease it? how many strokes?
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My 2005 Toyota 4Runner has the 4.7 V8 and in the last week or so, the charge indicator light on the dash has been intermittent and then suddenly on always. I started searching around and pulled the batt cables and cleaned the corrosion. The charge light has remained on and when I start it up, it almost gets to operating temp and then lights, radio, heat etc. all begin to shutdown. Then the dash lights up like a Christmas tree and shortly thereafter, the tach drops to zero, the engine sputters and then dies and will not start again until I disconnect batt cables and reconnect.
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I inhereted a prius 2005 and need some education. It has 75000 miles and the battery level stays between the green and blue mostly. I was stuck in bad traffic and as I watched the battery level sucked down rapidly - to the point that I started turning it off and on to save on the battery - is this normal? Is there some switch/button i should press in this situation? I couldn't find anything in the manual.
Also - is there some technique in driving that would charge the battery better? I have just used my first full tank of gas and my mileage was 48 miles/gallon, so I'm pretty happy. I will be driving 30 miles each way to work, mostly at 60/70 mph - but as we know, traffic jams happen.
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I have Prius 2005 , there is no problem and no registered error code,but the problem occur when i drive my car on long down road and the HVB is full then the charging sound rise ,its like "B" mode on high speed,this sound continue while pressing on the break pedal or not but when i press on the fuel pedal or convert to transmission to "N" mode the sound return to normal ,but if i press on the break or leave my leg the sound return again,this happen if the battery is full but when the battery loss some charge everything return without any problem.
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On my last few charge cycles, the PiP's battery has not been charging completely. Even when I get the "charge complete" message, the top part of the battery indicator remains unfilled and I'm only getting 14.1 estimated range.
For comparison, last month I used to get 15.2 to 15.6 of estimated EV, when the battery icon filled completely after each charge. I always use the charge timer to set charging to finish 10-20 minutes before I need to drive the car.
My M-F routine:
- car finishes charging at 8:30 (13.8-14.1 estimated EV)
- I drive 8 miles to work at 8:20-8:30 (5-7 estimated EV remain, depending on traffic)
- I set charge timer to finish at 6:30 (13.8-14.1 estimated EV)
- I drive 8 miles to home at 6:30-6:45 (5-7 estimated EV remain, depending on traffic)
My weekend routine is obviously different, more driving, more charing, and not using the charge timer. Could it be because i'm not using all the EV so the battery is being lazy and not feeling like charging more than I need? Are there any known side effects of mixing 110V and 220V charging?
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When stuck in traffic jams, and my 2004 Prius shows 2 bars on the HV battery charge, it attempts to start the engine to maintain the charge on the HV battery. What was happening was the engine would attempt to start and then it would immediately die. It would keep repeating this process, over and over again, and would not charge the HV battery. Once I started driving out of the traffic jam, the engine ran fine and it charged up the HV battery while I was moving down the road. I decided to clean the throttle body. My charging problem did change due to me cleaning the throttle body. Instead of starting and immediately dying, over and over again, the engine no longer dies.
It now revs up, and slows back down to idle over and over again when sitting still with 2 bars of charge. The display does not show any charging going on during this revving up and slowing down episode. I need some more hints as to what to check out. I am studying electrical diagrams of the vehicle, but I need a synopsis of which system starts the engine for HV charging, and which system keeps the engine revving at the same RPMs during charging while not in motion. The throttle body cleaning made my 257 K mile Prius run like a scared deer again. I just need to get her charging while sitting still again. 12 volt charging system is in the 14+ volt range and 12 volt battery with no load is around 12.2 volts.
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Not sure if it's transmission issues, on the road it took me to a neighbor city with no issues, but on my way back, while running it went from 70mph to 57-60mph and it won't let me go faster, it will not rev up more than 2000rpms, if i step further on the gas it will struggle to rev up, it will, but speed won't go faster, engine just had been rebuilt, it has no catalytic converters. I live in mexico, instead it has 2 "silencers" which were just installed as well since it was making a lot of noise through the exhaust.
Been driving it in the city, (no more than 35mph) with no problems at all, all gears feel great, but haven't tried to go up to 60mph again. Expedition XLT 1998 4x4 ....
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When my 1999 Ford Expedition is turned off and sitting there, even for hours, the defrosting fan comes on by itself. I can feel cold air coming through the vents inside the car. The fan will turn off if I turn on the key or even if I step on the brake pedal, with the car still off. It won't stay off until I disconnect the battery. It seems to occur only when the temperature drops, like below freezing (coincidence??).
The other day, I left the fan running for several hours, it never turned off, I then disconnected the battery. It ran the battery down. Randomly/intermittently the dashboard clock, windshield wiper, or radio won't work when the car is running. I recently bought a new battery . I recently replaced the outside mirrors. Also, the passenger side window won't go up or down using the passenger side control but will using the drivers side control.
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I bought a used 1999 Expedition Eddie Bauer about 2 years ago. It has been a great truck until recently. The A/C system now only has hot air in the front. I can still get cold air in the back.
The truck has the EATC and I ran a diagnostics check and no faults were reported. Additionally, I can push the buttons on the control module and all the air comes out in the correct positions.The only fault is the lack of cold air.
I have seen bunches of threads about Blend Door failures. I reviewed "lvmilkman2002" thread on the blend door motor. However, on my Expedition when I removed what he detailed it appears to be a blower motor and not a Blend Door Motor. I reviwed the other threads and the actuator that is talked about that you can access from behind the glovebox is also not there.
Where can this actuator be located and how can you check it for operation!!! I am going to attempt this repair this Friday while I have a long holiday weekend.
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The AC was blowing hot air. But then we noticed that we could hear a flap closing. So the game has been, to keep it cold, to stop somewhat abruptly, then turn on the AC, then DO NOT accelerate quickly or you will hear the "shut" which makes the air turn hot.
Now, I have gone to auto zone and bought two things: Air Door Actutator, and Blend Door Repair Kit, both supposed to be for 1999 Expedition. I don't yet know which I need. I am looking to do the fix through the glove compartment which I understand is possible, although no one mentioned it here back in 2004.
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2005 Taurus. 82K miles, 3L, 6cyl, OHV engine, auto transmission. Occasionally the tachometer goes crazy. When this happens, it seems like the car loses some power. The reading on the tach is definitely incorrect when this happens (needle all over the place). Replacing something called the "speed sensor" ??? Couldn't find anything else that this problem may point to ??
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2005 5.4 - this is really weird to me, 4x4 hi works good, 4x4 lo not working at all. After 130+ tries to engage I'm givin' up on this... Troubleshooting with 4x4lo?
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