1999 Ford Explorer. 225,000 miles. After backing out when you go to put it into drive it won't take. So you need to put it into second and then put it into drive and you can go.The transmission seems fine when driving.
View 3 RepliesI have owned this explorer since new. It is an XLT 4 wheel drive always driven in "automatic" position. When I back up out of a parking place there is (sometimes) a noticeable momentary restriction on the right side as if I had run over something. There is no noise accompanying this. I have to be turning while backing up for this to occur. It sort of feels like the right front brake is somehow activated. Condition does not occur when backing straight. I have had the car to two different Ford dealers and they say they can find nothing wrong.
View 4 RepliesSo my 2004 explorer 4.0 XLT sport has a strange clicking noise every so often. I first noticed it when I back out of a parking spot, at one point almost every time I hear a loud snap, sounds like a bolt breaking. Wheel is turned and backing up.
If I get out and have wife do it of course the noise is gone and doesn't reappear. Also if I drive down a parking lot slowly I can hear a clicking noise if I roll the windows down. This sounds like a nail in a tire, click, click click at regular intervals.
But, put the rig on a lift and you don't hear anything. Nothing, I am thinking I have a damaged axle up front but don't see anything out of the ordinary. No torn axle boots, no looseness, nothing. It's a 4x4 not full time so even in 2wd the front axles are turning.
I am hoping to find an answer to a problem I've recently started having with my 2005 Hyundai Tuscon. When I leave my house in the morning to go to work I have to turn around in my driveway due to the hazards of backing out into a busy road. I have to back down a slight hill, but when I try to put my car into drive after backing down the hill it won't go in. It goes into Reverse and Neutral perfectly, but I have to work it really hard to get it into drive. That is the only time and situation that it ever happens, but it seems to be getting worse when it does happen. I've had two different mechanics look at it and they have no idea and basically told me to bring it in if it gets worse, but in true fashion when I take it in to them it acts perfectly fine.
View 7 RepliesI just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
View 1 RepliesSo on my 2003 F250 SCLB 4x4, I I was driving 70 or 80 miles to Huron in Ohio, to pick up a boat for a buddy with my truck. On the way up I heard a new clattering noise coming from the suspension or drive train, and we couldn't figure out what it was. After picking up the boat and coming back home without a problem, I looked under the truck and couldn't see any U-joints loose, But I saw that my right rear backing plate was disintegrated and gone. I took the truck to the shop and they said that the noise I'm hearing is the guts of the emergency brake pads and pins bouncing around in there when I drive and that my rear wheel could lock up at any time.
View 14 RepliesI have what sounds like a spring noise or a slight rub of a newly installed coilover set. The thing is it only happens when backing out of the garage and down the drive way in reverse, I'm not able to recreate it when moving forward. I've notice that it happens on all four. It is a very subtle sound/feel but it is there. I have about a one inch drop when backing out this when it occurs and yesterday I noticed it also happens when I go over the small lines that divide the driveway concrete slabs, but only when in reverse. Besides this the car rides and feels great with no other problems.
View 2 RepliesThe car is under 25k miles. I have owned for less then 2 years. Recently, I notice a noise coming from the rear every time backing out the drive way. The sounds louder in the winter**. I have gone to 3 different dealers and non of them offered a remedy. Some say they cant reduplicate the issue so I scheduled a test drive with a tech. Was able to duplicate the issue, however the tech says its normal ( pad shift over time) and told me a lot of the newer carmy has the issue. I'm exhausted from going dealer to dealer and no remedy issue. They all said the same thing "its normal & there's nothing they can do".
View 2 RepliesIs there a way to disable the auto 4 wheel drive on a 98 Explorer for testing purposes? I believe there is a module but can't remember where it's located and I don't know if it can be temporarily disabled.
View 10 RepliesBefore I take my dads truck to the mechanic. He noticed a "noise" when running highway speeds, which does not occur often for his truck..a beautiful 2005 Eddie Bauer Explorer with the 5.0 V8. I need this checked as I drag a boat to the Fl Keys from NJ in 3 weeks and the truck needs to be 100%. He just replaced the tires as his mechanic told him it was tire whine, which you hear and dont feel. The wheel bearings have been replaced in the last 2 years and they just did ball joints. I drove it up the highway tonight and felt it right at 62 mph..go faster it got more pronounced and you could feel it in the drivers seat...not vibration on the steering wheel..above 85 and it kind of smoothed out, drop below 62 and it goes away..makes no difference if you are in the gas or not..feels like something spinning out of balance....I ran it for 30 minutes at 75 and then pulled into a Lowes parking lot and drove one set of tires up onto a curb so I could fit under the truck..I started at the back and touched everything in the drivetrain for see if anything was hot..the rear differential was warm, the ujoints were not, the transfer case was warm as was the front differential, but none of the u joints or cv joints were warm... 2005 Explorer 100,000k miles...
View 12 RepliesI have a 1997 explorer xlt 2 wheel drive 4 door. It's got 189,000 miles on it. It's shakes a lot on idle when put in drive. I've replaced a lot of stuff. I've also lost a lot of power. I can put the gas pedal to the floor and still not get enough power. The shaking feels like it's about the stall out but it doesn't. Oh and there a rear main leak if that works.
View 2 RepliesMy problem is that my explorer, 130,000 miles will not engage in any gear while in 2 wheel drive or 4H. Truck will only engage in 4L. And when it does engage in 4L it hesitates and jumps into gear, especially drive. Also takes some doing to get it out of 4L. While truck is in 2 wheel and in drive, my speedometer reads about 20 mph with truck not moving. It does not do it in reverse. Also gears will grind when I attempt to put vehicle back in park because of it registering that I'm doing 20. Dropped pan and changed tranny fluid and filter. No change. Also not hearing transfer case engaging while I shift between auto, 4H and 4L. Really need this truck fixed ASAP, and need to do repairs myself.
View 2 RepliesI have 2001 ford explorer sport.. it idles very low in drive and reverse and then shuts off.. What has been replaced:
1. Torque converter
2. All new plugs n wires
3. Map or mass sensor
4. Iac valve
5. O2 sensors
6. Fuel filter
7. Air filter
8. Throttle valve/sensor
It does not run bad only when u come to a red or stop light.. Had the vacuum tested and no vacuum leaks.. also no check engine light has come on and no codes have popped up when tested..
Whats making the vibration & noise, my 2006 Explorer V8 LTD 4X4 is making a weird noise (vibration) & I think its the front drive shaft CV between the transfer case & the front differential........ this happens when I`m moving & at any speed, I have brand new tires.
View 8 RepliesMy car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
View 3 RepliesI have an '03 sport trac with 146k miles on it. Truck is in good shape for the most part, it has been very well kept before i got it. In the last few months i have had the flow master exhaust put in and the k&n intake. I had the vacuum leak problem with the hole in the elbow, which was fixed and discovered after replacing the IAC.
I have had a problem with the vehicle almost but not quite stalling when shifting from drive to park. The first thing i did was check for vac leaks, found none. I did not replace the IAC again only because it is only a few months old. I also replaced the MAF, which did not work either, I was still almost stalling going from D to P. The vehicle shut off while in the drive through at McDonald yesterday. It restarted roughly and i managed to get it to a safe spot. I lifted the hood and felt the radiator main hose was solid feeling, so i drove home and replaced the thermostat. In the process i got coolant all over everything.
The problem I am having now is the truck is just cutting off, both at idle and while driving down the road. It starts right back up and away i go. It is random, the truck is running a ok with no signs of any trouble then the next second it shuts off.
Yesterday I noticed when I pushed the 4x4 high and the 4x4 low button nothing happened, there was no light indicator coming on at the dash, and also there was no differece in gears when 4x4 low was selected, is there an easy fix to this like possible a fuse blown?
View 14 RepliesI got myself a 1997 explorer Australian model when I got it (here's the problem) if you put it in drive it will not engage but if put in first will drive normal then shift into second all good now u have push O.D then shift into drive all good (unless u slow down to almost a stop) ? New problem is, it has gone and lost reverse, put it in reverse and it engages with a small clank (normal) but just slips with any revs. I have read posts here talking about upper and lower valve body gaskets and transgo shiftkit which I have ordered but do there maybe more parts needed? Cause it's going to cost me lot just to put transmission fluid back in.
View 4 RepliesSo my Push Button 4 wheel drive wont engage. The light on the dash wont light up and it doesn't shift into 4x4. Where to start? I would like to check the simple stuff first. O and my heat only gets hot when im giving the vehicle gas. This is all on a 2003 Ford Explorer.
View 2 RepliesAfter I've been driving a bit and stop at a red light, drive thru, etc. I've noticed a strong gas smell. I drive with my windows down so I really notice it. I've searched all over the car and can't see any leaking. In addition to this, after I shut the car off for 20-30 minutes, when I re-start it, it runs really rough like its flooded until it clears itself out, along with the gas smell. The consensus seemed to be that its the pressure regulator/vacuum line. Where exactly is that located?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Explorer V8 4 wheel drive. Yesterday I was on the way home from a 2 hour drive and was on the expressway at a complete stop on a downhill grade. When I hit the gas, the car started lurching - it would shoot forward, then slow down, then shoot forward, then slow down.
I got the car to the side of the road and called a tow truck. Just to test - while I was waiting for the truck I put the car in neutral and even though I was on a steep downhill grade, it wouldn't roll at all. When I put it in drive - it wouldn't go initially until I had to put a decent amount of pressure on the gas pedal. I reminded me a being at a speed bump that you couldn't idle over and have to give the car some gas to power it up over the bump.
When the tow truck got there - I watched the driver drive the Explorer up onto the bed of the tow truck. What I noticed was this:
The left front tire was completely locked when he was hitting the gas. But when he gave it enough gas, the right tire that was working would push the car forward while the left tire remained locked creating friction on the pavement but the car was still moving forward from the other wheel.
Then after 3 or 4 feet - the left tire would unlock/release and start to rotate - causing the car to suddenly lurch forward. But then after another few few it would lock again. Then release again.
The thing I found odd was that when the driver later reversed the car down off the truck - the left front wheel worked just fine. So the car works perfectly in reverse, but in drive the left wheel locks then releases then locks then releases.