Hyundai - Tuscon :: Cannot Put Car Into Drive After Backing Down The Hill
Jun 19, 2014
I am hoping to find an answer to a problem I've recently started having with my 2005 Hyundai Tuscon. When I leave my house in the morning to go to work I have to turn around in my driveway due to the hazards of backing out into a busy road. I have to back down a slight hill, but when I try to put my car into drive after backing down the hill it won't go in. It goes into Reverse and Neutral perfectly, but I have to work it really hard to get it into drive. That is the only time and situation that it ever happens, but it seems to be getting worse when it does happen. I've had two different mechanics look at it and they have no idea and basically told me to bring it in if it gets worse, but in true fashion when I take it in to them it acts perfectly fine.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Tuscon. If we go out of town, or any time we don't drive the Tuscan for three days or more we always come back to a dead battery. I mean really dead. I mean, get a new battery dead. Since 2005 when we bought the vehicle new, we've had nine—9—new batteries put in. The last one was a heavy duty battery recommended by the dealer.
This problem started after the dealer replaced the OEM radio. We've had multiple checks done on the engine to find out where the (battery) draw is coming from. I researched and found a Hyundai Technical Service Bulletin saying that the problem is from a defective stereo. But my dealer says they can't locate the problem.
We've also had the battery posts cleaned and other things done. The vehicle runs fine and has had few problems except for this nagging battery problem.
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Just recently noticed in the past 2 weeks, that after shutting off my Tuscon, about a minute or 2 later it makes a popping noise coming from the back. It almost sounds like a piece of metal when it expands.
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I am not a mechanic by any means, but have picked up a lot of stuff over the years. I drive a 2003 Hyundai Sonata with a 4 cylinder engine. Several days ago while going up a steep hill I lost power and my check engine light came on. This has happened before when my coil went bad so I figured it would be a breeze fixing it. I limped it home and ran the code. Sure enough it came back as cylinder 1 misfire. This vehicle uses 2 coils so I swapped them to try and get the problem to follow, but it did not. I have tried a new spark plug, new wires, and swapped injectors without success. There is still no activity on cylinder 1.
I ran a compression test. I get about 60 PSI on cylinder 1 and between 180-210 on 2-4. This would point to head gasket, so I am told. I do burn about a quart of oil every 500-1000 miles, but I do not seem to have any coolant leaking issues. I have not noticed any smoke from the tailpipe. The spark plugs were generally good looking, except for number 3 which had a hard white substance all over the electrode. There does not appear to be any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. This seems strange to me as everything I have read said that one of those would happen.
Is there anything else I should look into or is my engine toast?
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1999 Ford Explorer. 225,000 miles. After backing out when you go to put it into drive it won't take. So you need to put it into second and then put it into drive and you can go.The transmission seems fine when driving.
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I have what sounds like a spring noise or a slight rub of a newly installed coilover set. The thing is it only happens when backing out of the garage and down the drive way in reverse, I'm not able to recreate it when moving forward. I've notice that it happens on all four. It is a very subtle sound/feel but it is there. I have about a one inch drop when backing out this when it occurs and yesterday I noticed it also happens when I go over the small lines that divide the driveway concrete slabs, but only when in reverse. Besides this the car rides and feels great with no other problems.
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Is it normal for the GX 470 to roll backward on a slight hill when in drive and foot off the brake?
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The car is under 25k miles. I have owned for less then 2 years. Recently, I notice a noise coming from the rear every time backing out the drive way. The sounds louder in the winter**. I have gone to 3 different dealers and non of them offered a remedy. Some say they cant reduplicate the issue so I scheduled a test drive with a tech. Was able to duplicate the issue, however the tech says its normal ( pad shift over time) and told me a lot of the newer carmy has the issue. I'm exhausted from going dealer to dealer and no remedy issue. They all said the same thing "its normal & there's nothing they can do".
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So on my 2003 F250 SCLB 4x4, I I was driving 70 or 80 miles to Huron in Ohio, to pick up a boat for a buddy with my truck. On the way up I heard a new clattering noise coming from the suspension or drive train, and we couldn't figure out what it was. After picking up the boat and coming back home without a problem, I looked under the truck and couldn't see any U-joints loose, But I saw that my right rear backing plate was disintegrated and gone. I took the truck to the shop and they said that the noise I'm hearing is the guts of the emergency brake pads and pins bouncing around in there when I drive and that my rear wheel could lock up at any time.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon w/ ~ 78K miles. For the past several months it has been living in the garage and mostly been used to drive to and from the grocery store once every 2 weeks. I did let the maintenance lag longer than I should have. I just brought it in to get an oil changed only to be told that there was NO oil in my car. -- The oil light never came on and although there was a subtle clicking, the car really wasn't making noise any strange or loud noises, wasn't over heating, and for the most part seemed to be running perfectly fine.
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2009 Sonata; about 82K miles. Drive belt was replaced in July, about 6K miles ago, by Trusted Independent Mechanic in El Paso. Now, Trusted Independent Mechanic in DC area replaced it again because one of the belt's ribs was falling apart. Attached photographs show a portion of the damage (which is only on that one ridge).
Did that belt need to be replaced?What could have caused he damage? (Mechanic says pulleys look ok; maybe defective belt.)
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson with 31,000 miles, and my 5-year power train warranty will expire in mid-September 2011. Recently, and consistently, when I drive through a puddle my power steering suddenly quits, the battery light comes on, the brake light comes on, and my blood pressure rises a bit. After a few seconds, the power steering will come back on, or I'll pull over and re-start the car for the power steering to come on.
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Just had a new timing belt put in with water pump. Drove it home and the temp gauge flew up to red zone. Took it back they said air pocket in system. Bled the system. Drove home and same thing happened. Nothing changed. Temp gauge elevates past normal and into red zone when I idle or drive slow without air conditioning on. The weird thing if the air conditioning is on the gauge stays at normal longer. What is the issue? Is it a bad water pump or thermostat? Or something else.
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When I drive my car, is fine for the first twenty minutes. After which time, the car drives like the E brake is on. Further, when I'm in city streets, the rpms go really high just to hit 25 mph. When I take my foot off the gas, the car gradually slows to the point where the car stops while in drive. Even if i press the gas, I have to press hard before the car moves. And when it does move, is like the E brake is on because it acts like it doesn't want to move. While traveling, is hard to reach 40 mph without the engine feeling heavily over worked.
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After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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I'm in my 3rd week of driving my new Prius v and was a curious about this... During the first week, I noticed that when backing up from my parking lot, the car's engine wouldn't kick in until I'd drive out the driveway at a higher speed.
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I may have read this on here a time or two before but just noticed our Tig doing it now...with only 816 miles on it!?!? it IS a truly an unnerving, shrill, sound...this will get old and fast! I'd hate to think i need to change the brake pads already, one thing for sure i WILL make mention of this when it goes in for the 90 day "inspection".
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Turn off the backing up beep in the Toyota Prius?
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I think it becomes more pronounced if the ground is not level. Is this normal?
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Today I was backing my ex up in my yard(down hill) and it acted like it was going to cut off. So put it in drive and it would not go,so I thought low in fluid. So I checked it, it was fine. So I tried it in drive down the hill and its fine. So confused as I was I tried in reverse again and it done it again. Any clues to why? Its a 03 v10 with 76xxx miles...
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Recently whenever I am backing out of the garage, the brakes pop when applied. I have only noticed this when backing.
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