At startup, my 2002 Jeep A/C cools normally for about 10 minutes and then stops cooling. It won't cool again until much later, usually not until the next day, and then repeats cooling for about another 10 minutes . Might this be overcharged? I topped it off with gauge last fall.
View 2 RepliesI have Jeep Liberty 2002 with 100300 miles. I having starter problem and the starter was replaced with a new one. Still I am having the same problem, the car can only re-start 30 minutes or more after I shut it off. The mechanic stated that he does not know what it is causing the problem.
View 11 RepliesMy ABS light and brake light come on within a few minutes of starting in gear. The brakes work fine and the brake shop says that the system is working fine, but I can't get the dang warning lights to turn off.
I've read online that it might be the sender mounted on the rear differential of my 2005 Jeep Liberty.
My radiator fan is not turning on in my 2002 Jeep Liberty. The belts look fine and it turns by hand. My radiator overheated last summer but since has been fixed now my fan doesn't work, but hasn't overheated. No parts of the the radiator or fan were removed. We fixed a part in the water pump this past sunday and when we had the engine running for about 15 minutes, the fan did not turn on or even act like it was going to try. What the issue could be?
View 9 Repliesi have a 2002 jeep liberty.the cv shaft is popping.do i have to replace anything besides shaft.to fix jeep.
View 4 RepliesOur Jeep has 120k miles and it has the towing package with heavy duty cooling system. In Sept we were returning from a very mild summer in WA when we hit hot weather and mountains in south OR the jeep overheated and we had it towed to a gas station. They replaced the thermostat and checked the fan relay and topped off the coolant (with the wrong type). The Jeep continued overheating when stressed the rest of the way home, another 600 mi. We took it to the Chrysler/Jeep dealer and they flushed the system of the coolant mixture, replaced hoses, fan clutch and the thermostat ($900). The Jeep ran ok a short while before overheating again.
Returned to the dealer and they did all their tests and everything OK. A while later again overheating and returned to the dealer. Their tests again showed no problem, but the mechanic noticed the aux. the fan did not come on when AC turned on. He ran his own tests and decided either the switch or the relay for the fan was faulty, with the switch more likely. They ordered a new switch; the switch didn't?t fit. Called the supplier and requested the correct switch and again the switch didn't?t fit. The mechanic said he could file the prongs to make it fit and did so.
The jeep ran excellent for a few months. In Feb. had to overheat again, this time the dealer found sludge from the old mix of correct/incorrect coolant and flushed system twice. Jeep ran OK for a couple months then again overheating. This time it made it over the mountains fine but driving along flat I-5 south of Redding it overheated. We stopped and after the reservoir stopped boiling (10 min) the temp gauge was fine. We drove for 1-2 hrs. and heats up again. This keeps up till we get home, 400 mi. later. The dealer does his tests and everything fine. I tell them the aux. the fan seems to be randomly shutting off on its own but it does not act up for them so there is no problem. Could the replacement coolant temperature switch for the aux fan not be compatible with the 2002 Jeep?
I am the proud owner (almost paid for) of a 2002 jeep liberty limited 4wd. It has been in the family (2 years with me and three with my mom) for 5 years now. It has 102,000 miles and about 7,000 of those miles are city (I only drive 6 miles a day to work and back) and the rest highway. My mom bought it from the original owner with 60,000 miles. It has been a low maintenance vehicle until recently. There are a couple of major issues and then three or four minor ones. I'll start with the most pressing. About 8 months ago I replaced a flat tire with a mismatched size spare on the drive axle and drove for close to 6 weeks before I realized the tires were different sizes. I noticed the problem when driving in 4wd I started to notice a thunking sound and called a mechanic who told me to check the size of the tires.
The spare was the original factory spare (235/70r16) and the rest of the tires were purchased used by my mother (245/65r16) I immediately replaced the spare and have continued to drive the car to work.Since then there have been no real mechanical problems but the jeep is making funny noises. At first it seemed like my right front tie rod end was going out because of vibration at around 40 mph. I took it to a mechanic to have he tie rod end replaced and he said that the rear end is "going out". Seems kinda high to me and I am wondering if I replace the rear end now, how long till I have to replace the front end and 4wd system? Will the rear end go out again if the front end goes out? Should I just start with new parts and rebuild he whole drivetrain now to save money later?
I have a 2002 jeep liberty 3.7... It auto trans 4wheel drive. All at once it makes rattling noise and shake like crazy. I was thinking oh no another u joint but checked them none broke or cracked. So I got back in drove it on home and it had stopped. So then I thought front cv axle. So I put in 4x4 and drove it and nothing?
View 4 RepliesIt has 197k and change.It's not throwing any codes whatsoever. I can drive it all day and it wont overheat as long as I keep it under 2000 rpm.If I take it over 2000 rpm, it slowly heats up, but I can cool it down by slowing down. I can do like 50 mph max without it threatening to overheat. I've never let it get above 3/4 without pulling over and letting it cool off (I know how heads like to warp and crack).
Rubbery sludge in coolant reservoir (almost positive it's oil) but absolutely NO coolant in the oil, there never has been. I do all the oil changes myself and check it quite often. I've been keeping the reservoir full but it loses coolant daily (no leaks on ground anywhere, ever. I've already removed the reservoir and cleaned it out several times, but since it has more than one chamber it's almost impossible to fully clean without replacing. The hose that runs from the top chamber to the bottom blows off from time to time (I finally put hose clamps on it). I've flushed the cooling system several times but still the sludge comes back. I've removed and cleaned the thermostat (still good) and housing (had very little sludge). I flushed out the heater core but the heat is still weak.
Makes a loud whistling noise at idle, the noise literally stops every time I give it gas. (this is where I was thinking Intake Manifold Gasket, maybe vacuum leak) You gotta love these plastic manifolds. BUT it's idling low (650 rpm once fully warmed up) not bogging or sputtering whatsoever. Fans are working completely fine. It loses oil but again, no leaks on the ground whatsoever. I thought at first it was burning it (high mileage, worn piston rings) until I noticed the coolant reservoir was gunked (wasn't very long and I know I didn't mix different kinds. I check everything (more than regularly) and it loses quite a bit of oil.
Before everyone says head gasket, it isn't losing much power (if any at all), no white exhaust, and as mentioned before there's no coolant in the oil.Whatever it is, I can repair it myself but before I tear this thing a new one replacing gaskets and seals I'd like to be completely sure.
I have an interlock installed in my 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport. I've been having electrical problems in it ever since it was installed. Prior to it being installed the jeep wasn't mine, it was my grandfathers, and he says it really wasn't driven for a while consistently but it didn't have any electrical problems before the interlock was put in. I'm not sure if this is accurate or not because I'd never driven it prior to the installation. Either way, now I believe I have a short in the electrical somewhere in the system. I'm not sure how to proceed, other then to check the fuses. The battery IS currently dead, but it wasn't.
I was able to start the car and get it down the road, hoping the alternator would charge the battery (the lights were out, none came back on) After a little bit of driving down the road I drove back into my driveway because I was scared to drive without headlights, and shut the car off. It hasn't started back up and now none of the lights or anything are working at all. We've tried jump starting the car, thinking maybe the battery was dead or the alternator went out, but the cables just started smoking and getting really hot. I really need to know how to proceed to find this short, will I have to look at all the wires in the car? Or is it possible to just use the fuse box? My knowledge of electric in a car is very limited, though I do know the basic mechanics.
I was driving home from a backpacking trip when I noticed a knocking coming from my engine. It got worse as I drove up a large hill and suddenly became very loud, and I lost the ability to accelerate, power steering and brakes.
I managed to pull off the road and checked all my fluids, everything was good. No smoke from the engine and it was not over heating. I was unable to start the car, it wouldn't even make a noise, just dead.
Check engine light is broken and remains on. No other warning lights came on while I was driving.
My jeep liberty 2002 has been sitting for two weeks. Noticed rear door latch opening and closing. So I unhooked battery. I figured battery was dead tried to hook charge to it but it keep discharging kicking off charger. Whats going on? Tried jumping but it was still discharging?
View 5 RepliesMy rack and pinion began to fail and my Liberty developed sensitive steering (lane to lane and while towing trailers). I had it replaced locally and aligned but when I got it back it was more sensitive than before and borders on "unsafe to drive". I can imagine what it would do if I put a trailer behind it. In my mind something is binding which is fighting the steering input.
When you turn the steering wheel stays where-ever you steer to (does not return to center). My next repair is a known bad ball joint, but I don't think that is causing this. My question is at 106K could my power steering pump be producing less than full power? Is there a dampener in this system that could have frozen up? I'm ruling out the alignment for now. This is the V-6, 4WD Limited.
I truly intend to repair it forever, but if I can't get past this it goes to the junkyard.
i stared my jeep today and when i was driving it wont go pass 45m and doesnt wanna accelerated...
View 5 Replies2003 Jeep Liberty Sport, 156 K miles, Check engine light has been on for months now. First occurrence was when driving, and car started to knock as though I was shooting 50 cal machine guns. Stopped vehicle, shut off, and upon restart, engine ran smooth. Now, almost every time after engine has been running a while, and I am going on a down slope, the check engine light starts to blink, and engine starts to miss. Took to my mechanic, and so far, I have been told and have replaced, Fuel pump, Spark plugs, coils, and wires, cam sensor. Latest and most recent with promise that this has to be it, I replaced engine computer.
View 16 RepliesI have a 04 3.7L V6 Jeep Liberty with about 114K miles on it. It started happening recently that when I turn the key nothing happens. I have to put my foot on the brake, shift thru the gears, back to Park, take my foot off the brake, and then the car will start. Not quite sure where to start...
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 Liberty just started this a couple weeks ago. When sitting still, the AC blows hot air. It cools down nicely when you start moving. This makes traffic lights and people who don't go when the light turns green VERY annoying. While waiting, I can hear the compressor coming on and off. Thinking perhaps the radiator fan wasn't coming on, I looked at the radiator fan fuse, 40 amps, and it looks fine. I even checked it with an ohm meter. With the car sitting still, engine running and AC on, I don't think the radiator fan is going. Maybe one of these two relays?
Important details (or not)5 speed transmission125,000 miles"What color is the car?" Blue.Two wheel drive. (alas, it's a Jeep in style only)
I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport. The key is stuck in the ignition. It will still start, but when I go to turn, it's like the key doesn't want to release those last few steps. Which is as safety issue because my car is sitting ready to be stolen. When I called the dealer they wanted to charge me, just to figure out what is going on with it plus labor and parts to fix it.
This is a known issue with the '06 Jeeps and Chrysler is not wanting to do anything about it. At this point, I just need the key out of the ignition. The dealer said they would have to pull the ignition system apart to get the key out which would cause the car not run at all. We tried tapping the key to get it to release and it hasn't done it yet. It did this once before and we where able to jiggle the key and it released but it is not working now.
Again it is a 2006 Jeep Liberty v6 3.7 Liter Engine it is now sitting at about 78000 miles happened the first time at about 50-55000 miles.
Following on the recent storm (Sandy) I got to my car and realized that water was leaking in from somewhere near the dashboard. Subsequently, it seems as if the electrical panel has been affected. Initially, whenever I pressed the brakes the back wiper of my Jeep Liberty (2003) would come on. That has subsequently stopped. However, now when I turn the car off the radio continues to play and I have to turn it off manually, the clock no longer goes off and the horn no long sounds when I turn on the alarm.
I took it in they hooked it up and said they couldn't see anything wrong with it. They had never seen the problem before, that they called the dealer and they had never heard of anything like that before. I have subsequently used sealant on where I think the leak originates but don't think I was particularly successful. So the problems are how do I deal with the leak and what might possibly be causing the radio, alarm problem. I should also say that I was out of town for a few days right after the problem and when I came back the car would not start so apparently there is some kind of "parasitic drain" on the car but again no-one seems to know what, where, or why.
I stop to put gas in the car, put the hose in and set the "latch" so I don't have to hold the hose (which I have done for years) What has started to happen is the hose does not shut off and gas spills out. I have tried holding the hose with the latch in place, and then readjusting the height/level that the hose is at,, it still spills over... since this is something new, what is going on !
View 3 RepliesI drive a 2004 Jeep Liberty which currently has about 67,000 miles on it and is in relatively good shape. For a while now I've been noticing that my CEL will come on randomly while I'm driving and flash 10 times before stopping for an indeterminate time. At the time it occurs I could be doing 70 on an interstate or 35 on a city road, doesn't seem to matter. I also don't notice anything else with the car at the time. No jurking, no sounds, no nothing - seems to be running fine. I've tried taking it in to shops after I've seen it but they are never able to pull anything off of the error codes. I've now been driving with this phenomenon for over 5 years so whatever it is seems to not have been as serious as I would have expected but I do think its starting to happen more often now than it used to.
When I try and manually pull codes I get the "donE" screen with a random number that flashes super quick before disappearing. Had to use my phones slomo mode to even try and capture it. it seems to just be a number "867588". Quick video showing what I mean .....