Jeep - Liberty :: 2010 - While Accelerating From Stop Rear Wheels Spin - Got The Traction Light
Jan 13, 2012
I own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
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I've been driving a 2014 base model GX for a little over year now. I noticed that when the vehicle is in drive and is stopped at a stop sign/light on a steep incline (i.e. front of vehicle is at significantly higher than rear), when accelerating away from the stop, the traction control system (?) will beep and make some noise for a second or two if the car rolls backward from the stop when the brake is released.
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I recently had a dealership mechanic check out a couple of annoying noises my 2012 Jeep Liberty had been making for a few months. The one that really bothers me is a squeak coming from under the hood. It squeaks pretty constantly when I'm accelerating at all, only stops when I brake. Now, I'm totally clueless about cars and I realize how easy it would be for me to be taken advantage of, but I don't want to be bitchy to the guys fixing my car. I was told this squeak is the brake caliper slide so I told them to go ahead and fix it. The guy comes back 3 hours later (had to order the part) and says he's replaced the part and did all he could but it still squeaks. Am I being jerked around? Should I just take it elsewhere for a second opinion?
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I have a Puzzler-worthy issue going on with my 2002 Jeep Liberty (LTD, 4WD, V6). A few weeks ago, it started to stutter when slowing down to a stop, and then -- after a few times of doing that -- began the bigger problem of completely stalling out/shutting off once at a stop (in traffic, at a light/stop sign). It starts up fine and idles fine from a stopped position; it's only when I drive and slow down and come to a complete stop that it has the issue. The shop I go to is a great Jeep-based shop, and they've:
1) serviced the (quality, few-year-old Interstate brand) battery. Initially, it was a bit drained, but they charged it up and made sure nothing else was draining it. I went to drive it home but it had the issue, so brought it back.
2) cleaned the idle control sensor. They found it was a bit gummed up, affecting airflow under 10MPH. Said that did the trick for them with multiple test drives but then I went to drive it home last night and it did some stuttering on the way home when I started coming to a stop. I tried not to get frustrated; "Maybe it's going to stutter a wee bit now and then," I thought. "No complete stall-outs = good." But this morning driving to work it stalled out nearly every time I came to a stop. I took it back in and they're going to keep investigating.
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Okay, so I've been hearing this strange sloshing noise in my Jeep Liberty 2005. It happens when I start off from a stop and usually around 15mph. It seems to be coming from the front of the vehicle (engine). And I'm not the only one that has heard it so I'm not crazy.
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I have a 2003 four wheel drive Kia Sorento. When not in four wheel drive it is rear wheel drive. On two occasions while driving on snow packed roads, I have had the rear loose traction and spin out luckily going into a soft snow bank. I have good tires, was driving about 15 miles per hour on a flat straight road and not applying the brakes. I can't figure out what is happening. So I started to put it in four wheel drive whenever there is snow pack on the roads. Typically I thought four wheel drive was only for "tough" conditions, but I haven't had a spin since using four wheel drive.
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I know the RX350 isn't a real SUV designed to go off-road, but after the recent blizzard on the East Coast I am really disappointed by the AWD in this car. My driveway is plowed by a truck so it is very clean, but the city plow leaves maybe a small 5 inch high pile that about 1 feet across after it goes by. My RX350 couldn't through that the front wheels just kept spinning. I tried snow mode and even push the 4 Lock which I think does nothing. The back wheel didn't even spin once it seemed like I was driving a FWD car.
Our older RX330 a 2004 model got stuck also, but when we jabbed the gas after a few seconds the car made this weird screeching sound and you could see the back wheels spin as it climbed the driveway no problem albeit slowly. Its a bit disappointing to see an older RX has better AWD then the newer models. I mean the back wheels didn't even spin on my 2010 the front wheels just spun. I tried turn traction control off, 4 lock, and snow mode no luck. Also when going up the 2010 kept sliding sideways on my 04 the steering felt washy, but at least it was sliding off the driveway.
I also had A6 before this and it has never gotten stuck and its a lower car so its not like a drive my car through snow bank. We ended driving the older RX everywhere this weekend as the 2010 is not very assuring when it snows.
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Went to change the front brake pads on my 2010 F150 today which has 80,000 miles on it and is 2wd. Prior to taking the wheels off we noticed that it takes both hands grabbing the wheel and a significant amount of umph to get them to spin. As soon as you let go of the wheel it stops moving.
While changing the pads we didn't see anything that seemed misaligned or incorrect. The pistons compressed with ease on both calipers. However we did have to fight to remove the inside pad on both wheels.
After re-install wheels back on, they are still just as hard to try to spin. Is this normal if not what could be the problem and could this be affecting my MPG which i get 18.0....
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My jeep liberty 2002 has been sitting for two weeks. Noticed rear door latch opening and closing. So I unhooked battery. I figured battery was dead tried to hook charge to it but it keep discharging kicking off charger. Whats going on? Tried jumping but it was still discharging?
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I just bought a 2014 PiP. I'm a tall guy, and sometimes when looking for change in my pocket or my phone I'll extend my leg out while on the brake. When I do so, the traction light comes on. Once I drive away, it goes out.
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I have gear noise in my 2007 Liberty 4 X 4. It sounds like it is coming from the rear axle and is more pronounced under acceleration or decelleration.
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I got a new-to-me Jeep Liberty 2005 in February. The check engine light came on after a few weeks. Our mechanic replaced the catalytic converter twice. After the second replacement it went out after we drove for a while, but after the second one it never went out. We are now using high-test gas (to prevent carbon buildup?), but that hasn't worked either. I need to pass the emission test soon.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 2.8 Diesel. It has about 57000 miles on it and when I took it to be inspected, a Code PO 299 came up. The dealer has done quite a bit of work to it and cannot find a way to get this light to stay off. When something is done, it goes off until it is driven, then it comes on again. So far the jeep runs great, but it's hard to pass inspection unless the light goes out.
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I have a 2005 jeep liberty 3.7L with 60,000 miles on it. The engine light when on 2 weeks ago and gave a p300 code. the dealership replaced coil and plugs, I believe. Then would start rough when cold, the engine light would blink for about 10 seconds then remain on. the car runs just fine except when cold....first minute of starting it. they checked for head gasket problem, and cant seem to find the problem. They told me that this could just be something that happens. I don't believe that. I have no loss of power, no hesitation. Runs fine 99% of the time
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I have a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport. RWD with the 4.0L. Currently Sitting at 46,000 Miles.
Where I am located, it is very cold. Downwards of 5 Degrees F. I just started noticing a strange sound in my truck. When accelerating from a stop light I hear a single knock, and to my ear it sound as if it was coming from the rear. First thing I did was check the U-Joint, but there is zero play and it is very tight.
After driving quite a lot and unable to diagnose the problem, I part and got out of my truck, only to hear that same noise when I stepped out of the truck. (I am not fat 195b lol). So I sat back down and I heard it again. Did this a few times and consistently heard it. I got into the bed of my truck and started to jump around and got the same knock.
I shook the exhaust pipe to see if it was making the noise, but it wasn't, which makes sense considering while driving over bumps I could not hear anything. I am totally lost as to what this could be....I want to add that I CANNOT feel any difference driving. Feels great.
My ideas on problems are as follows;
-Spare tire
-bushing
-loose bold
-leaf spring (maybe a hanger)
-The cold creating noise like always.
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1 year ago bought a 2003 Ford Ranger 5-speed manual. For last two months I occasionally get a loud clang from the rear, with short locking of rear wheels and sudden lunge when accelerating from stop. I can also get occasional clang when cruising down city streets in fourth gear. Tonight when accelerating from stop wheels locked and no sudden kick in and lunge forward. Finally got truck to go and crawled home. I've taken the truck into my mechanic twice, but of course it performs perfectly normal when they drive it. And no, it isn't just the way I drive. It's an occasional problem but getting more serious.
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I have a 99, F-350, V-8 &.3 Diesel, 6 speed with 2 WD. Is there a way to temporarily lock both rear wheels to obtain better traction in the snow?
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Noticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
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I read about Prius will not spin its wheels? if it loses traction, it somehow disengages the drive or otherwise does not power the wheels until they stop. Once they stop, the wheels can receive power again.
That's sure going to make it hard to do burnouts in the grocery store parking lot.
More importantly, it could make it hard to impossible to get unstuck on sand, gravel, mud or snow. It could also be hard to take off on a slippery incline.
Sure, this isn't an off road vehicle, but off the road ain't far from on the road and road conditions can get pretty rough.
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I seem to be having a issue on take off with my new Super Duty, it has the michelin atx2 tires than come on these trucks. On any hill or grade on take off she just spins and traction control flashes on dash, what the heck? Do I need to pull out the 4x4 switch to engage the e-locker so this thing will move? Seems crazy to have to put her into 4wheel when there is only a inch of snow on the ground... My 6.0 did this sort of due to all the torque it had, but that had those crap Contitracs on it till I swapped them for BFG at..
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OK, so the front end of the car is on jack stands. The rear is planted on the ground. The car is in park.
Yet, I'm able to spin the front wheels with my hand.
Wouldn't putting it in park lock the wheels via the transmission?
The car is a FWD 2007 Corolla....
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