I have a 2000 volkswagen jetta 4 cyl and when I shut off the engine, what I believe to be the air compressor for the air conditioner starts an erratic clicking noise. sometimes it doesn't click at all, sometimes a little. I've had to jump start the car twice because I believe this may be running down my battery. Why this is happening or what the possible outcome will be...
View 2 RepliesSometimes (most of the time) whenever i turn on my car, there's sort of like a clicking noise (really loud, if you get out of the car you can still hear it), push the clutch in and its gone. The other times when it doesn't start right away, the car warms up and the noise is present. I don't know if its normal for Volkswagens to do that, But i didnt notice it when i got the car. Im not sure if its the engine, trans or clutch. At first i thought it was my A/C because whenever i would turn it off the noise would go away.
It wasn't the A/C, it started to go out, don't have money to replace it, so now i always leave it off. the noise stopped for a little while but eventually came back. It only happens when the car is idling, start to accelerate, it goes away until i come to a stop again.
It's a 2000 Golf 1.8t 5 speed manual.
My 2000 jetta won't start. Lights, beeping, everything else happens when I put the key in, but nothing happens when I try to start it. I don't hear any noise coming from the engine, i.e. clicking, etc. I can push start it and it works fine.
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a 2012 VW Jetta. My first German car, it has been both a really fun learning experience and (more often than not) a nightmare to work on. That said, I still am enjoying the car and intend to keep it for a while.
This past weekend, I took the factory wheels off to sand and paint them black, because I thought the car would look nice with black rims (and it was a lot cheaper than buying a whole new set!) Everything went well, I put them back on, and the car drives perfectly. Except it doesn't.
Now, I've got a noise coming from the rear passenger side wheel well. I'm not sure exactly what is causing the noise, and while I fancy myself a halfway decent Saturday Mechanic; I cannot diagnose or repair this problem myself. I have little to no experience working on drum brakes. All I know is this: the lug nuts are torqued, and the dealer has taken apart the brakes and informed me that nothing is broken or out of place. This cannot be the case - SOMETHING is making that clicking noise!
More information: it sounds JUST like the clicking noise you get when you forget to tighten your lug nuts and go for a drive, the rim moving around on the wheel studs and that noise it makes- this sounds exactly the same... The "click click click click" sound increases tempo as vehicle speed increases, and in volume when you very lightly apply the brakes and turn either direction. I don't know what to do, as usual, the closer I get to the dealership's service manager, the noise fades away.
I have an 05 Jetta Wagon GLS 2.0 which has been amazingly resilient. I had the 100k check up done recently and everything still came up positive; the battery conked out at 120k; and I just recently replaced the stock head and tail lights out of proactiveness rather than them going out. But, I think I've run into an issue now. When I drive through a puddle (or otherwise get water significantly on the underside of the car) if I am running the AC at the same time the engine makes a squealing noise as though a belt is slipping due to the water. I presume is the case that a belt is slipping--and I imagine that is part of the reason it idles noisier than when it was new, but before my wife and I make a budget I'd see whether there are other options. As it is there are 130k miles on the car, it's a 5spd standard, and other than oil changes and the checks at 30, 60, and then 100k no real service has been done.
View 4 RepliesIts a 2008 Volkwagen jetta with about 60000 miles on it. My car makes a rapid fire clicking sound. I've checked the battery connections and they seem fine. When I tried to jump start, the electronics inside start flashing to the same clicking sound. The check engine light is on.
View 7 RepliesI've been having several issues with my 06 Jetta. First, it began by the car dying out of battery, and than i figured out that during the night the break lightswitch would turn on. I would be able to turn them off by getting in and pressing the breaks but they turn on a while after. Now, today I purchased a stoplight switch to replace the old one however, when I recharged my battery before installing the piece the car died a few minutes later, but when the car was off there was a strange clicking sound under the steering wheel it kept clicking for about 10 minutes before it finally stopped. What could be a possible issue or issues that are going on?
View 4 RepliesI just recently acquired a 2000 Isuzu rodeo. The last owner said their girlfriend drove it with low oil, and it damaged the engine. On starting the car, there is a somewhat loud clicking/tapping noise from the engine. It speeds up if you step on the gas, and seemed to be louder with the camshaft cover off. I believe it to be an issue with a valve or cam or some other part in the head, but the person I am working ont his car with thinks the problem lies in the lower end, and wants to rebuild that.
View 1 RepliesRecently, my 04 accent (97,000 miles on engine and auto trans) has started to develop a rattling or Clanking noise coming from the engine at low RPM's. I flushed the engine and changed the oil and oil filter, thinking it could be due to oil clogging the HLA, But this was a no go. The engine is still making the noise, and I think it is starting to get worse.
The noise only happens when the car is idling at low RPM's. As soon as I rev the engine past 1000-1500 RPM's, the noise stops. The noise is worse when idling in gear, either reverse or drive, however as soon as you accelerate past 1000-1500 RPM, the noise goes away, until you decelerate to low RPM again. I'll try to take a video of it and post a link to it on here tomorrow.
1.8T... Finding the source of a weird clicking noise I keep hearing. Ever since I changed the motor mounts (although I am not sure if this has anything to do with it) after the engine warms up or after some driving, when the engine is idling I hear a clicking or tapping noise coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. It doesn't seem to tied to the rpm; I can rev the engine a little without the tapping going faster, and when a shift between neutral or park or drive the tapping will briefly slow down almost to a stop before going back to its regular pace. After the revs get above 1500 or so it seems to stop.
View 6 RepliesOur manual transmission 2000 Jetta's acceleration has begun acting weird. You raise the clutch and give it some gas, but the engine revs and there is a delay before it "catches" and begins to propel the car. What's going on?
View 2 RepliesSo it only happens when I start the car, I'm thinking its the starting needing to be replace. The car starts everytime, Just when it cranks it makes a the noise, but fires up right away. The noise is gone once the car is started.
View 3 RepliesI have recently inherited a 2000 Jetta. The car runs great however the plastic tube that holds the oil dipstick is broken in two or thee spots. It has been previously repaired with electrical/duct tape. Doesn't seem to leak but I'm wondering if I need to get a new one in there. Is this something I can do at home or does it need to go to a shop?
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 VW Jetta TDI has a pulsing sensation at 2000 and 2500 rpm. It is a manual transmission. We've recently replaced the clutch/flywheel and the fuel filter. The problem has been progressively getting more common. Injectors, turbo, fuel filter problems?
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
View 2 RepliesHere are my questions.
1. What can cause repeated steering rack failures, which I am trying to dianose?
2. I found yellow spots in the snow that would come from the center of the vehicle (as opposed to near the wheels), could this be from the coolant system?
If you got that far, here is the relevant history. My wife drives my 2000 Jetta, its a nice car with repeated problems. One such problem is with the steering rack. 1. The steering rack failed in 2006, it was an expensive fix. It was leaking for a while, but I just topped off the fluid every couple of weeks. 2. Within a year the steering rack failed again, it was still under warranty. 3. 2 years later, the rack failed for a third time. I wrangled with the shop and they agreed to reduce my price for the fix even though the part was no longer under warranty. They had the car for a week trying to diagnose the problem, they said they found nothing out of the ordinary. I took the car to another mechanic a week later for some other issue, and he saw leaking from the fill plug--back to the dealer again. They said they cleaned the washers around the plug to fix the problem. No problems since then. Now its almost two years later and I have found a couple yellow spots in the snow, although near the center of the car and not near the wheels. This makes me think it may actually be a coolant leak, but I don't know right now.
I Have a 2000 vw jetta 2.0 that will not start with drivers side door open, no problems with other doors. I checked and cleaned the ground wires.
View 4 Replies2003 jetta has a body clunking (serious) ONLY in the summer, when it has been in the sun...
View 5 RepliesI've got a 2002 Jetta TDI that's been playing stump the mechanic for the past two weeks. I've had about $800 worth of work (most of which had error codes and were necessary), but given that the next suggestion is to replace the fuel pump at a cost of ~$2k, I figured it was time to get some additional opinions.
When the car is completely cold, the engine typically turns over a few times before starting up. Sometimes a few turns into seven or eight, but I've never had it not start. The problem comes when I've driven it somewhere (like to the grocery store, yoga class, or to get gas, to name a few) and try to restart it after my task is done. The warmer the engine, the lower the chance it will start. In it's most extreme, the car will not start at all, and I have had it stall out on me at stoplights if I do manage to get it started.
The car has had a history of intermittent hard starts in the four years I've had it, but nothing at all like this.
In the past two weeks, my mechanic has replaced the coolant temperature sensor, thermostat and seal ring, serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt, power supply relay, fuel pressure regulator and seal rings and the crank sensor. They've also been able to see that something is off about the fuel pump since they can see air bubbles in the fuel line, but thought I could push the car for a while without having to replace the pump.
I have a VW Jetta Sportwagen with 17" wheels and Conti 225/45R17H low profile tires. Ever since I first bought the car, i have been annoyed by the higher-than-expected road noise. Perhaps this is caused by the tires, perhaps by the body characteristics of a wagon, perhaps it's just the noise anyone would get from a Jetta chassis. The tires are due for replacement soon, and I'm wondering if I would experience a meaningful reduction in road noise if I switched to 16" wheels and less sporty tires? It wouldn't be cheap to replace wheels and tires, but it could be worth it if the noise level drops significantly. If the wheel change is not worthwhile, which 17" tires would be a quieter choice?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2013 VW Sportwagen TDI. I have been driving with my windows down and recently started hearing a noise (don't hear it when windows are up). The sound only seems to appear when I first start driving the car (after a few miles it seems to stop or at least is much less frequent), as I slowly (normal) accelerate and especially as I turn into a corner... I hear a loud "ticking" sound. It "ticks" 6-12 times (over about 5 sec) and then stops altogether. The sound has a very metallic character.
I looked at a youtube video demonstrating diagnosing and repairing of the CV joint(s) and am not convinced this is my problem. The tone and frequency of the "tick" sound shown in the video is way different than what I am hearing with my car.