Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2004 - Engine Rattling / Clicking Noise At Low RPM
Dec 23, 2011
Recently, my 04 accent (97,000 miles on engine and auto trans) has started to develop a rattling or Clanking noise coming from the engine at low RPM's. I flushed the engine and changed the oil and oil filter, thinking it could be due to oil clogging the HLA, But this was a no go. The engine is still making the noise, and I think it is starting to get worse.
The noise only happens when the car is idling at low RPM's. As soon as I rev the engine past 1000-1500 RPM's, the noise stops. The noise is worse when idling in gear, either reverse or drive, however as soon as you accelerate past 1000-1500 RPM, the noise goes away, until you decelerate to low RPM again. I'll try to take a video of it and post a link to it on here tomorrow.
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I have a 2004 explorer that has a clicking/rattling noise in the front of the engine. What i found is that the bottom pulley has a sleeve or ring inside of that pulley that is just floating loosely back and forth. What this is or what it is supposed to be ??? If it is a bad part, what is the best way to fix it ?
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I have 2000 accent 1.5 man trans have had it for 2 years it runs good have done alot of regular maintenance but since i have owned it there was a rattle coming from motor area assumed it was heat shield of some kind, but then i noticed it stops when clutch is engaged or when driving. it is also not there when first started on very cold mornings. wondering if it is a bearing in the clutch area?
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So i'm only a week and a half into owning my Elantra, 800km on it and today when i started the engine i noticed a clicking/rattling sound, like the noise when someone sticks a piece of paper into a fan. Anyway it's quite minimal and you could hear it louder when you accelerate. I never noticed it before, even when i test drove the vehicle.
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When decelerating and braking, there is a strange clicking noise, and it seems to be coming from the brakes in some way on my 2002 Accent. It does sound like a metal clicking. Steering doesn't affect it, it happens on a corner or on the motorway. The only way to stop it is accelerate. The clicking is faster when the car is going faster, and slower when the car is going slower. The brake pedal isn't vibrating or anything, and I cant actually feel it.
I am certain this is a braking issue as it only started just after I got new brake pads about 2 months ago. It is not transmission related or anything like that. I have had some suggestions about axle's and CV joints but I doubt it's either of those as they are in good condition, and as I said, this started directly after having new brake pads installed!
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I have an 05 accent and about 6 months ago I started to notice a clicking sound coming from the belts area ( it sounds exactly like a BBQ grill igniter when it's pressed), the sound starts as soon as I start the car and stays pretty much the whole time, I had the car lifted by my mechanic and he discovered the problem in one of the belts ( not sure what is called but it's the one at the very bottom of the belts, the first one you see when you lift the car ), the spark is seen at the edge of the pulley or where the belt sits on the pulley. The mechanic was puzzled about this, he recommended replacing the crank sensor as a first step, the car runs fine and there is no other symptoms or issues
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My daughter has bought a 2003 4 door accent and on the way to work she lost most of the brakes. I could not see any fluid leaking and the level was ok. I did try pushing on the brake pedal with my hand and it was making a noise like a clicking? I was thinking it was just the brake light switch but not sure. The place she bought it from put new brakes on it when the driver side was getting really hot. I am thinking maybe air in the system? It sounded like a caliper was sticking when I test drove it but only a couple of times. You would have some brakes but you had to pump the peddle.It is in a parking lot right now but I can work on it unless it is some sort of different? I am going to try to bleed it in a little bit but was thinking I should ask around. I read that the piston could be sticking but can you just rebuild the master cylinder to fix it if that is what it is? I could pull the pedal back a little bit. I only looked at for 4 or 5 minutes kinda dark and no tools with me.
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I have an 2002 Hyundai Auto.
My car has the clicking noise under the following situations:
1) rolling in neutral with/without brake applied
2) rolling/decelerating without gas pedal pressed (I guess the same as rolling in neutral) with/without brake applied
The noise is the most noticeable when going at around 20 to 30mph, and would be gone under very low speed <5-10 mph. The weird thing is when I press the gas pedal and the car is accelerating, the noise is gone too.
My mechanics said it is because the wheel cylinder which is noisy. But I don't quite understand why the noise is gone when the car is accelerating.
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My 04 hyundai accent about 2-3 months ago acquired a hissing noise which seems to be coming from the middle of the engine compartment. The car only has 100,000 miles on it.
It is a constant hiss that only stops when the gas pedal is pushed initially. I have looked all over the car and can not see any fluids leaking at all. It is pretty loud and can be heard easily outside the car when the car is on.
I hooked up my obd2 reader and found these codes:
P0304-Cylinder 4 misfire (I notice it when the car sits at idle for about a minute)
2x P0121- Throttle Position circuit range/performance problem
2x- Evaporative emission incorrect purge flow.
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Two weeks ago my car would not start, so I had a friend try and jump the battery. This battery wouldn't hold a charge, I took it into O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said the battery was shot. I put the new battery they recommended, the car ran fine for about 5 days. I took the battery back to O'Reilly and had them test the battery, it was too low to start the car, so they charged it and sent me on my way. The car ran fine for the rest of the day. The next morning the car would not start again, so I called the auto parts store and they recommended switching out my alternator. We switched out the alternator and the car fired right up, it ran perfectly (lights, heater, radio, etc) until yesterday.
While driving down the street, I noticed the radio head unit flicker, then it shut off. The car kept driving for about 2-3 city blocks, then all the lights shut off (dash lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights). I turned onto a side street and the car couldn't go above 10-15 mph, it seemed. The speedometer and other gauges started going berserk, followed by a ton of dash lights coming on. The car basically rolled to a stop. I put it in park, turned the key to off and had it towed to my house. When I turn the key to accessory, all the lights work, as well as the heater and radio. But when I turn the key to start the car, a rapid-clicking sound comes from under the hood.
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2005 F150 Lariat package with 63,000 miles. Ok... thought I had a cat crawl up in thew engine to stay warm...but alas no cat found. Got off of work and headed home, clicking/rattling noise from the front passenger side dash, then a whirring noise followed shortly there after by a dull thud (hence the cat scenario). Happened twice on the way home (~15miles) ...
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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2004 F-250 FX4 SB 5.4 V8 140k
Issue: rattling/clicking noise from passenger front wheel area at speeds lower than 15MPH, made worse under light braking and/or turns to the right.
Clicking sound is speed dependant.
Spindle? Hub? Balljoint? Sway joint? Rotor Issue?
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I drive a 2000 Celica GT 5 speed. I am having an issue with my 1ZZ-FE.
I am hearing a ticking/rattling noise from my engine around 2k-3k RPMS. Anything before or after that, the noise dies down. I could hear it from the interior of the car as well. I at first thought it was valve chatter. Someone said It could be a piston or rod. What parts will be needed? Worst case, ill just swap in a 03+ 1ZZ or go with a 2ZZ.
[URL] ....
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Sometimes (most of the time) whenever i turn on my car, there's sort of like a clicking noise (really loud, if you get out of the car you can still hear it), push the clutch in and its gone. The other times when it doesn't start right away, the car warms up and the noise is present. I don't know if its normal for Volkswagens to do that, But i didnt notice it when i got the car. Im not sure if its the engine, trans or clutch. At first i thought it was my A/C because whenever i would turn it off the noise would go away.
It wasn't the A/C, it started to go out, don't have money to replace it, so now i always leave it off. the noise stopped for a little while but eventually came back. It only happens when the car is idling, start to accelerate, it goes away until i come to a stop again.
It's a 2000 Golf 1.8t 5 speed manual.
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I just recently acquired a 2000 Isuzu rodeo. The last owner said their girlfriend drove it with low oil, and it damaged the engine. On starting the car, there is a somewhat loud clicking/tapping noise from the engine. It speeds up if you step on the gas, and seemed to be louder with the camshaft cover off. I believe it to be an issue with a valve or cam or some other part in the head, but the person I am working ont his car with thinks the problem lies in the lower end, and wants to rebuild that.
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I have a 2000 volkswagen jetta 4 cyl and when I shut off the engine, what I believe to be the air compressor for the air conditioner starts an erratic clicking noise. sometimes it doesn't click at all, sometimes a little. I've had to jump start the car twice because I believe this may be running down my battery. Why this is happening or what the possible outcome will be...
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I have got a hyundai accent and I was getting a really annoying rattling sound from the boot i have been looking every where to find it and today i have sust it out if you open your boot up and just drive it round the block and it does not rattle then its probably the same problem that i had its the catch that the boot locks on to they must of been a bit of a gap to it and the metal was rattling together on the clip and the lock all u have to do to fix the problem is open your boot up then on clip on the car that the boot locks on to simple apply some installation tape around it so its pretty thick but not to much close your boot and problem solved it should be ok mine is fine now back to silence again now instead of a annoying rattle when driving.
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My 2000 jetta won't start. Lights, beeping, everything else happens when I put the key in, but nothing happens when I try to start it. I don't hear any noise coming from the engine, i.e. clicking, etc. I can push start it and it works fine.
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I have a 2000 Accent GL with the 1.3
I was driving home with a known overheating problem, when the temp gauge pegged and a heard a distinct rattling. I knew right away what happened. as I pulled over the engine stopped turning. I opened up the hood, and my suspicions were confirmed. I blew a headgasket. I went back into the car to call AAA, and I heard a loud POP!! the radiator blew from the heat and pressure.
after it got home and cooled down I tried cranking it over and it has NO comression. it just spins.
should I take the time and money to replace the headgasket, or should I just get a junkyard motor?
I know I need a new MAF. I had a "multiplicative fuel system running lean" code for a LONG time. I regrettably assume this is what caused the failure in the first place.
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My engine is making a ticking noise. Louder when I start it and not as intense after it warms up but its still there. I first thought it was one of my pulleys making noise but I brought it to a friend who knows a lot more then I do and he says to check the engine valves. Did some searching online and thinking it might be the valve lash adjuster but not sure.
Anyway whats the best way to go about this? What type of oil should I be using and I also read I should be only buying Hyundai oil filters?
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