I have 2000 accent 1.5 man trans have had it for 2 years it runs good have done alot of regular maintenance but since i have owned it there was a rattle coming from motor area assumed it was heat shield of some kind, but then i noticed it stops when clutch is engaged or when driving. it is also not there when first started on very cold mornings. wondering if it is a bearing in the clutch area?
View 2 RepliesI have an 05 accent and about 6 months ago I started to notice a clicking sound coming from the belts area ( it sounds exactly like a BBQ grill igniter when it's pressed), the sound starts as soon as I start the car and stays pretty much the whole time, I had the car lifted by my mechanic and he discovered the problem in one of the belts ( not sure what is called but it's the one at the very bottom of the belts, the first one you see when you lift the car ), the spark is seen at the edge of the pulley or where the belt sits on the pulley. The mechanic was puzzled about this, he recommended replacing the crank sensor as a first step, the car runs fine and there is no other symptoms or issues
View 2 RepliesRecently, my 04 accent (97,000 miles on engine and auto trans) has started to develop a rattling or Clanking noise coming from the engine at low RPM's. I flushed the engine and changed the oil and oil filter, thinking it could be due to oil clogging the HLA, But this was a no go. The engine is still making the noise, and I think it is starting to get worse.
The noise only happens when the car is idling at low RPM's. As soon as I rev the engine past 1000-1500 RPM's, the noise stops. The noise is worse when idling in gear, either reverse or drive, however as soon as you accelerate past 1000-1500 RPM, the noise goes away, until you decelerate to low RPM again. I'll try to take a video of it and post a link to it on here tomorrow.
I've got a 2001 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed. Car has 105,500 miles. Whenever the car is running, it makes an irritating tapping noise somewhere on the left side of the motor. I've been told that it sounds like the timing belt, but the car runs perfectly, doesn't miss. The tapping used to go away 30 seconds to a minute after starting it, but now it's constantly there and slightly louder. The noise goes with the rpms. When the rpms are higher, the tapping is faster. I've also noticed some loss of power. I recently added some octane booster to the fuel but noticed no difference. My uncle told me it may be a main bearing starting to go out but the tapping does not have a metallic tone of any.
View 3 RepliesSo aside from many different fluid leaks, and the sound of rattling coming from my engine which I have been told is my gas pinging. I am hearing what I can only describe as the sound of a small explosion coming from under the hood. Its not as loud as a backfire, but it definitely sounds like something is combusting where it shouldn't be. its a '93 XLT V6. What could it be? how screwed am I?
View 19 RepliesI have got a hyundai accent and I was getting a really annoying rattling sound from the boot i have been looking every where to find it and today i have sust it out if you open your boot up and just drive it round the block and it does not rattle then its probably the same problem that i had its the catch that the boot locks on to they must of been a bit of a gap to it and the metal was rattling together on the clip and the lock all u have to do to fix the problem is open your boot up then on clip on the car that the boot locks on to simple apply some installation tape around it so its pretty thick but not to much close your boot and problem solved it should be ok mine is fine now back to silence again now instead of a annoying rattle when driving.
View 1 RepliesI've got a tin-ey metal rattling sound that only periodicly comes from the engine block itself. it sound like someone is shaking a coffee can with a penny in it. It almost sounds like something is vibrating. (05 ford escape 6cyl over 100K)I've watched videos of people on youtube that have a knock, and it doesn't sound like that.
View 3 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2005 accent and recently the blower motor started working intermittently.. After a couple of days of it coming on and off it now wont come on at all.. After checking the 30amp fuse under the hood, and the relay they all seemed to be in good shape, I even swapped them out with other fuses and relays to make sure that wasn't the problem. I checked for power at the Motor and it has 12 volts going to it when the fan switch is on.. so I pulled the blower motor itself and connected it directly to a 12 volt source and it worked, eliminating the possibility of the motor itself being seized. Now I read up on a few sites on how to check the resistor, so I did a few continuity tests on the resistor itself and didn't see anything out of the normal.. What I should check next or what the actual values on the resistor check I should be reading..
View 1 RepliesMy problem is this: when I am driving and press the throttle hard from low rpm (anything under 2000-2500), the car will struggle to pick up rpm, and be incredibly sluggish to accelerate, until it reaches around 3500 rpm, at which points it returns to normal. Whilst it is struggling to accelerate, the exhaust sound is almost like a subaru, in that there is a series of small burp noises which stop once it returns to normal acceleration. It only whilst attempting to accelerate from low rpm that I have this problem, i.e. idle plus mod-high rpm is fine.
View 2 RepliesExperienced a rattle coming from the console area... a week or two ago I was driving home from work and I heard a "slight" rattle noise.. it sounded as if it was coming from the dash area... This concerned me because when I first bought my car about 18 months or so ago, there was a very annoying squeak in the dash when the temp dropped below 50 degrees... I took it back to the dealer several times for that squeak, and finally a young tech there figured out the problem and fixed it.. still quiet to this day... so anyway I'm hearing this very faint rattle sound ( on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the loudest, this would be a 2 or a 3 ) and it appears to be from the dash area...
I keep feeling around and putting pressure on different parts of the dash with no luck... then quite by accident I laid my hand across the counsel and as soon as my fingers pressed up against the round that selects eco / normal / or sport, the rattle stopped... removed my hand, rattle started again, just put one finger on the round and the rattle stopped...
So I had the car into the dealership for oil and filter change saturday and I saw that same tech that fixed my squeak last year... told him about the issue and while the car was in the shop he pulled the console.. said he couldn't find anything really wrong except that some of the clips were not lined up.. he didn't know if it would work but he said he insulated all the clips and a few other areas inside the console with some thick felt... charged me nothing... zero.... Don't know if the problem is permanently fixed, but I have not heard it in the two days since...
I have a 2000 Accent GL with the 1.3
I was driving home with a known overheating problem, when the temp gauge pegged and a heard a distinct rattling. I knew right away what happened. as I pulled over the engine stopped turning. I opened up the hood, and my suspicions were confirmed. I blew a headgasket. I went back into the car to call AAA, and I heard a loud POP!! the radiator blew from the heat and pressure.
after it got home and cooled down I tried cranking it over and it has NO comression. it just spins.
should I take the time and money to replace the headgasket, or should I just get a junkyard motor?
I know I need a new MAF. I had a "multiplicative fuel system running lean" code for a LONG time. I regrettably assume this is what caused the failure in the first place.
I brought my 2011 GS350 in today for the dealer to fix the rattling noise coming from the dashboard after 2.5 hrs of waiting the car was fixed and I drove it to work and the rattling was minimal but tonight after work it was really cold I drove the car home and the rattling noise seem like it coming from the dashboard area near the windshield and the noise was more noticeable than this morning right after i left the dealer.
I just bought the car on March 3, 2015 so far loving the ride but the rattling noise makes me worry. The car is still under factory warranty until March 29th 2015 I am hoping they can correct the problem before the warranty expires.What should I do next?
I just purchased a 2009 Hyundai Elantra a few months ago.. I have been hearing a rattling/ clunking noise around the rear glass area. I brought it to a local dealership and they thought that it was the bracket for the trunk lid rods. They replaced the bracket and the noise is still there..
View 3 Replies2010 Matrix XR, car drives great except while driving off of parking lot going slow over bumps I hear a bit of rattling noise coming what seems like the driver side dash area... it almost feels like its coming perhaps from the steering wheel but the steering wheel feels very tight with no play at all.. Other than that it's all good can not hear anything wrong driving on a smooth road or a highway...
View 9 RepliesI've got a 2001 1.5L Accent with about 110,xxx miles on it. The car stalled at a stoplight and would not start. Earlier that day it had been driven pretty hard for a while with very little oil.
When I turn the ignition, there is only a high pitched buzzing/whirring sound. the motor won't turn over, so I assume it's probably seized up.
I have a grinding/Rattling noise coming out of the front area of the transmission when the clutch is disengaged (up), noise stops when clutch is pushed in. 99 (6/98) F-350 7.3, manual, 4x4, 192xxx mi. Just came out of the shop with the following done to it:
New Power Force clutch kit, twice.
Transmission Rebuilt twice.
Different rebuilt transmission.
Rear main seal r/r.
After first time in shop the noise was apparent. about 3,000 miles were driven with no change, brought back to shop, where transmission was gone through again as well as a new clutch set, same noise still present! Another transmission was rebuilt and installed, same noise!!!
I have a 2011 F150 FX4 with the traction control. When the tires spin (like taking off on a hill in the rain - that's when i noticed it) and I let off to let everything settle down, I hear a rattling kind of noise coming from the middle dash area, maybe on the engine compartment side of the firewall. It sounds like a rubber ball in a box being jostled around. What this might be?
View 3 RepliesI have a f350 6.7l powerstroke diesel. It has been shaking real bad sometimes to the point of going only 15-20mph. And sometimes while it shakes it makes a rattling noise in engine area. The weird thing is that it doesn't do it all the time. We have noticed it mostly when gas gets low.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2014 ES300H that I just purchased. After driving around for a while I parked it in the garage. After it had been sitting in the garage for around 6 hours, I hear a motor or fan type noise coming from the trunk area. It lasted for several minutes and then stopped. Is that normal and what the noise might be.
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 250 LD 5.4 that suddenly has a grinding noise coming from the area where the transmission and motor meet. I took the inspection plate off the transmission and can look up inside there and see everything moving. I use a screw driver and if I flex the plate that mounts between the transmission and the motor I am able to get the noise to quiet down until I release the screwdriver and then the plate flexes back and scrapes making the noise again.
I can not see where the plate is grinding when I look up inside there. I can't figure out how to fix this.... Why it would just start doing this on its own as none of the bolts on the housing have been removed except for the two bolts that hold the starter on. (Changed it a couple of weeks ago). Thought about loosening the bolts on the tranny housing but I'm afraid that it would open me up to further problems???
Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.