So it only happens when I start the car, I'm thinking its the starting needing to be replace. The car starts everytime, Just when it cranks it makes a the noise, but fires up right away. The noise is gone once the car is started.
View 3 Replies2001 Passat Wagon GLS v6 - 83k
Just replaced the drivers-side taillight and hood strut. Been a week or so since the vehicle has last been started as it is sitting in the garage. When I start the vehicle, it will turn over a bit, cranking away, then start clicking (pretty quickly).
If I pay careful attention while it is turning over, I can hear the door locks making some noise, kinda like they are trying to decide whether to lock or not. I will also get dash light flickering on/off. turn-turn-turn / click-click-click
I know it is not the battery. All power works fine when the key is just in the on position, no dimming, etc. Though it seems to be something electrical with the weird noises I get while trying to start.
Just picked up my car from the shop last night. Had a full tune up, air filter replaced, radiator upper hose replaced (was leaking), transmission service and an oil change. When I picked up the car at night I heard that it sounded a little off when starting but I was so excited to have it back that I drove it home. Once I was on the freeway, no weird noises and it drove perfectly fine. This morning when I started it up again the sound was there again. I can only explain it as a sort of high pitched humming. I pulled away from the curb and it made more noise - I heard that sound once when I needed power steering fluid. I put the car in park and popped the hood. Power steering fluid was full. My mom suggested I restart the car so she could hear the sound. This time when I started the car it sounded fine. Typical.
I drove it to work and it drove fine and never made that noise again.
(car is a VW Passat 01')
As the title states, my 1.8 liter manual will not start. No clicking noises, nothing. Once inside the car, the lights and the auto lock work, but the radio, auto trunk, auto gas hinge, windows and radio will not function. The radio says safe mode. I checked all of the fuses, and all are fine.
View 5 Replies2001 sierra 2wd ext. cab. over 300 km. 5.3 motor auto .... Battery charged, everything is working when key is on, but nothing happens when key is turned to start. Clicking noise can be heard in 5 pin fuse relay located on left side dash fuse panel.. How do I check it? Could have something to do with anti theft system?
View 3 RepliesI have an 01 Excursion. I tried to start it this morning and the radio and lights came on, but all it would do is make a really loud clicking noise. If the battery was dead would the lights come on? My friend who picked me up to take me to work also told me my battery connections needed cleaned...
View 7 RepliesIts a 2008 Volkwagen jetta with about 60000 miles on it. My car makes a rapid fire clicking sound. I've checked the battery connections and they seem fine. When I tried to jump start, the electronics inside start flashing to the same clicking sound. The check engine light is on.
View 7 RepliesJust got back from the supermarket. Unloaded groceries and my Passat wouldn't start when I went to park it. Turned the key and it just makes a clicking noise - clock and trip odometer reset themselves also. If I turn the key the car just makes a clicking noise and the lights on the dash all flash on and off.
I am going to see if it starts after being jumped in a few minutes.
Other potentially useful info - I was testing a radar detector for work the other day and it has a battery voltage meter. It was reading in the 11.0 - 11.6 volt range. Is this too low - just wondering if the alternator was not supplying a sufficient charge. Not sure how accurate these are. The battery was changed around a year ago so I'm sure it's not the battery. I am assuming starter or alternator.
Well my wifes Passat blew a coolant hose and shut down. Now when you try and start it it makes a terrible clanking sound. I'm about to start tearing it apart today. She has the v6 30v...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 volkswagen jetta 4 cyl and when I shut off the engine, what I believe to be the air compressor for the air conditioner starts an erratic clicking noise. sometimes it doesn't click at all, sometimes a little. I've had to jump start the car twice because I believe this may be running down my battery. Why this is happening or what the possible outcome will be...
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 2012 VW Jetta. My first German car, it has been both a really fun learning experience and (more often than not) a nightmare to work on. That said, I still am enjoying the car and intend to keep it for a while.
This past weekend, I took the factory wheels off to sand and paint them black, because I thought the car would look nice with black rims (and it was a lot cheaper than buying a whole new set!) Everything went well, I put them back on, and the car drives perfectly. Except it doesn't.
Now, I've got a noise coming from the rear passenger side wheel well. I'm not sure exactly what is causing the noise, and while I fancy myself a halfway decent Saturday Mechanic; I cannot diagnose or repair this problem myself. I have little to no experience working on drum brakes. All I know is this: the lug nuts are torqued, and the dealer has taken apart the brakes and informed me that nothing is broken or out of place. This cannot be the case - SOMETHING is making that clicking noise!
More information: it sounds JUST like the clicking noise you get when you forget to tighten your lug nuts and go for a drive, the rim moving around on the wheel studs and that noise it makes- this sounds exactly the same... The "click click click click" sound increases tempo as vehicle speed increases, and in volume when you very lightly apply the brakes and turn either direction. I don't know what to do, as usual, the closer I get to the dealership's service manager, the noise fades away.
I am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
View 3 Replies2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
View 3 RepliesAnother month and another problem to be resolved. Here goes: The 2001 Passat 1.8T has had a hard life in the past year. The specifics are listed in previous posts. Most recently, the radiator was replaced because the engine was overheating again. The car has been leaking fluid ever since but it is not radiator fluid. Yesterday, I took a look at the oil and found tan gunk mixed in with the oil. I must admit that I had concerns after the fact about the shop that did the last oil change. Is it possible for mechanic to screw up the head gasket while replacing the radiator? It was fine before the repair. Is there another source to look for the seepage into the oil? Basically, the question is - Is the car destined for the graveyard because of this?
View 9 RepliesMy son has a 1999 VW Passat Wagon with a 1.8 turbo 230,000 miles. He came home from work, parked his car and the next morning for school it did not start. He inserted the key and turned it and the engine would not crank. All dash lights worked and such. He did notice the power window were not working and the interior lights either. He jump the car and worked fine, until he shut it off, and again needed a jump to start.
I looked at it, battery and alternator tested fine, battery is only a year old. the car now randomly will start on it own or not, even with a jump. I had no codes pop up on the computer scan. I am hearing things like climate control module and another fuel module in trunk and water issues. I was told to check connect at starter and change iginition switch. Have not done the ignition switch yet will need to get car up on block for starter as my son has lowered the car quite a bit. I had the computer codes checked by a VW tech and he seems stumped too.
2002 vw Passat GLX 4motion... Car has been driving fine with no issues. Then out of the blue it just won't start back up. Battery is 6 months old. And wouldn't start with a jump. I think it is a completely different issue. The power windows stopped working but other features do work like stereo power seats interior lights...Main problem is no lights on dash whatsoever. But when key turns from accessories position to starting position nothing happens. No clicking, no resistance between positions it is as if the ignition is just missing..?
View 2 RepliesRecently I bought an 01 Passat with a V6. Intermittently, when I go to start it, it cranks and cranks and doesn't catch. When this happens, the EPC and check engine light come on.
Other than that it is a fine car, I'm the second owner, and it was thoroughly maintained at VW dealerships and specialist. Recently there was a new oil pan and starter put in (w/in a month--previous owners).
The 2001 Passat 1.8lT has an engine warning light on and feels like it is running on less than all four cylinders.( very rough idle) This is the first time we have seen this particular warning light and the manual suggests that it has a problem with the catalytic convertor.( 170K miles on the car) The car had no symptoms until the light came on today and the car was serviced last week. ( oil change and new tires) It seems that every time I take the car in for service something goes haywire shortly afterward.
View 6 RepliesI have a volkswagen TDi 1.9 automatic which is using coolant more on short runs than on motorway and produces white smoke/steam on start up even when not cold which disappears after a few seconds. Other symptom is doesn't accelerate though goes OK when once up to speed. Have has cylinder head checked and new gasket so that is not the culprit and also new heat exchanger. There is also a gurgling noise which seems to be coming from the dash board though I am not sure if these things are related. I have read that the automatic has a water cooled EGR, could this be it??
View 1 RepliesSo my 2003 VW Passat will not start. I last drove it a few days ago, and it has been sitting inside a nice warm garage. The battery was replaced a few months ago. The car doesn't "turn over" but just has a steady sound when you try to start it. It's not a clicking sound like I had 6 months ago with it. I attached a link to the audio file of me trying to start it today. There are no warning lights per se coming on only the typical ones coming up when the ignition key is turned on. The lights and interior lamps come on indicating there seems to be power but nothing else. The plugs were cleaned a few months ago as well. Could it be alternator? I could try jumping it but the sound it makes leads me to believe there is plenty of juice.
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I drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
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