Mazda - B2600 :: 1992 - No Power To Start After Changing Master Cylinder
Jan 30, 2012
I have a 1992 mazda b2600i, recently lost all brakes. Changed the master cylinder, but now I have a major problem!! I have no power to start it. I have head lights, dome lights, horn, buzzer when key is in start position. Nothing when try to start, no click, no trying to start nothing!! I have changed the main relay, all fuses. broke down and contacted a mechanic and he is telling me that I have to have the 2 computers replaced... there is one under the kick panel on the pass side and one under the driver seat!!
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92 Regal Custom, 3.8L .... I need to replace master cylinder on mother in laws car. How do I determine if it has the Durastop brake system or not?? Any factory code in glove box or trunk, if so what is the code to look for?
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ll, I changed out the master cylinder on my 2002 F-150, disk brakes front and back w/ ABS. Bleed all the air out and bench bleed the master cylinder. I have good pedal but the brake light will not go out.
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Shifting into gear was a problem occasionally, but lately, within 15 minutes of driving, I start feeling the shifting into higher or lower gear getting stiffer and will not shift into gear.I've shared the problem with couple of my mechanics and it left them puzzled, since there are no leaks or low levels of fluid.
B2600i '92 cab ....
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I have a 1990 mazda 2600i 4x4 truck that is leaking coolant on the right side of the engine about mid ways back. What that could be coming from? My light was very dim and I couldn't tell much by looking.
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My 1993 Mazda B2600i starts up in the morning just fine. It runs for about 10 minutes and abruptly shuts off. I can crank it at full speed, (Good Battery), and it may attempt to start a few times and then it just cranks with no attempt to fire up. It just turns until the next day morning. Then it is the same thing all over again. I disconnected the fuel line from the out let of the fuel filter, leading to the fuel injectors and was able to fill a 2.5 cup glass jar in about 20 to 30 seconds.
I checked the ignition coil and there was spark there. Then I checked for spark at the #1 and #2 cylinders and detected the spark there as well. When the truck runs in the morning, for the 10 minutes that it runs, it seems to be very smooth in its operation. No abnormalities at all until it shuts off. I also listened to the fuel injectors with a screw driver at my ear and herd a fairly consistent clicking of the fuel injectors during the 10 minute operation of the engine.
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2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
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Im replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release. I know it has to be very simple, I just cannot see how it releases.
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I tried to replace my brake master cylinder today but wasn't able to because of a plug
It's the black plug on the drivers side, the connector is upside down so I can't see how to unplug it I tried for an hour then got too frustrated I had to come inside
My Haynes manual says "unplug" obviously
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I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
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Stopped after a hard pull and noticed I had coolant dripping off the front sensor on the Brake Master cylinder. Coolant level was down in the Degas bottle. Searched everywhere for the source of the leak, and couldn't see anything. Today the drip had stopped, but when I squeezed the rear heater return hose under the Degas bottle it appeared to have a wet spot form.
I'm thinking I have a very tiny pin hole, and plan on pressurizing the system to see if I can determine for sure this is where it is. Before I do though, where this high pressure leak might be coming from? Degas bottle and cap is less than a year old. Doesn't appear to be any signs of leaks around the clamps. That rear heater hose.
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I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
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I bought a '99 MX-5 in the fall with 100000 miles on it. Most of the time it runs fine. But about every two weeks when I go to start it it will run real rough like its only hitting on three cylinders then will eventually smooth out after anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes. But today it wouldn't start at all. Finally started just fine after trying for 15 min. My mechanic changed the EGR valve but it hasn't worked. The check engine lite stays on all the time but when it starts rough the lite will flash.
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Which line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
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Vehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
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I own a 1974 Mercury Capri and I am having trouble finding a master cylinder. Where I can locate one?
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I had this sad puppy noise coming from my brakes so I have now replaced my brake booster. When doing so I took my old brake master cylinder and put it on my new brake booster. When trying to bench bleed it it only came fluid from the P marked circuit. It came no fluid from "S". I guess it stands for primary and secondary.
I thought it was because I couldn't press the piston hard enough so I installed it in the car so I could use the brake pedal to get more power. But still no fluid from "S". Is the brake master cylinder faulty? The rear discs are unevenly worn.
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I bought a new clutch master cylinder for my 1960 Land Rover. I have swapped these in and out and rebuilt or replaced them many times over the years. This is the first time I've seen one fail this way, and it is brand new out of the box. In my opinion, the seal at the back of the cylinder that is supposed to close off the reservoir from the inside of the cylinder, well, isn't. So, it is pushing fluid up into the reservoir instead of down through the lines. Have a look at a this video...... [URL] ....
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I replaced my MC cap and gasket less than a year ago with a Dorman replacement and I'm leaking again, already. I don't want this to be an annual thing! Any good quality replacement? Is there any tip or trick to get the gasket to seal better?
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC.
I change the rotor, calipers, and pads on the front end.
When I went to bleed the brakes I got some fluid, then I got none.
I can hear fluid squishing around up near the master cylinder, but none coming to the caliper.
I see a bleeder screw on the master cylinder.
Before the car came to me the person had, had low fluid, but had brakes. Now the pedal just goes all the way to the floor with no effort.
There are no leaks or broken lines anywhere.
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I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
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