Mazda - Mazda3 :: Slight Clicking Sound Every While Coming Out Of Left Turns - CV Joint Failing?
Nov 27, 2012
My wife's 2007 Mazda3 is making a very slight clicking sound every while coming out of left turns. It's somewhat intermittent, only happening every few turns. I did a quick visual inspection and noticed that there was grease around the CV boot. The problem started about five days ago (or at least the noise started appearing five days ago). Three weeks ago I had the struts replaced, so I'm wondering if they could have torn the boot while replacing the struts, or if they didn't notice the issue.
Is the CV joint shot, considering this is only an intermittent sound, or is there something else that could be happening? Also, what is a typical repair cost for a CV joint (or half axle replacement) on a 2007 Mazda3?
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I have a 2004 Mazda 3 with 90K miles. Brakes, rotors, and rear calipers were replaced about two months ago. About a month after, I started noticing a clattering sound coming from the left rear wheel whenever I drove over rough road. (It sounds like an aluminum pot lid dropping onto the pot.) The shop that did the original brake work took 4 visits to get everything done. Instead of going back, I went to another mechanic who said the left caliper was loose. He showed me how he could shake it. He said the bolts were tight so it wasn't a safety issue.
I went back to the original shop for repair but they could not reproduce the noise and said the brakes/calipers were fine.
The noise remained. I went to a third shop which checked the caliper and said it was fine, but said that I needed new shocks. The mechanic had the car on the lift and was able to reproduce a similar noise on both rear wheels when he hit them with a rubber mallet.
The first mechanic insists the caliper is bad. The second insists it's the shocks.
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I got a brand new 2011 Mazda 3 i Sport 4 door sedan in May and it's been great so far. Lately though, I have started to hear a sound coming from the back left hand side of the car. It really closely resembles the sound of tapping one's finger on a counter top. When I'm stopped, there's no noise but when I go I can hear it. As I go faster it goes faster as well and when I slow down it slows down. What is going on?
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I"m getting a tapping sound coming from the dash. It happens every time I start the car(hot or cold engine) and lasts for about 10 seconds. It also happens when I adjust the fan speed for the heater/AC, NOT when I first turn the blower motor on. The noise was completely gone after I removed the heater fuse.
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Yesterday, I was dropping off a friend, and after a minute or so of being parked, when I started rolling forward again, this very loud, metal on metal screeching sound started coming from under my car, seemingly on the driver's side. I thought there was maybe something under the car, but I looked, and found nothing. When I tried to leave her street the noise got so loud I was scared and stopped again, and her neighbors came out because they heard it. Again, examination of the wheels, undercarriage, under the hood, it all looked normal. Turning the steering wheel didn't make the noise, but bouncing the hood made a slight squeak in the same area. So I parked it, and this morning had it towed to my mechanics. Of course, once it got there, they said it drove fine, they hear no noise, and saw nothing wrong with the brakes, tires, or axles. Basically, they think I'm crazy.It was lightly misting when this happened but not real rain or anything. The mechanic said they don't see any evidence that anything was stuck in there that might've gotten dislodged by the tow. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow, but is there anything I should have them check before that?
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2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
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I have a mazda 3 and i just tried to start it but its just making a clicking noise. The radio works so does that rule battery out....
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Yesterday I just started noticing a clicking from my 2008 Mazda 3 sedan's fan. When the blower is set to "1" it is very quiet and inaudible when on the highway. As the fan speed increased from 1 to 4 the volume and rate of clicking increases. There is no difference with A/C compressor on or off or set to warm or cold. Is it the blower motor? Could pebbles be stuck in the fan? My repair expertise is almost non-existent (I changed the lightbulbs!) but I want to learn to do more with my car.
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I have a 2006 Mazda 3 Hatchback. We recently had new tires put on and an alignment both were needed pretty bad. Before the work the car had a pretty bad vibration to begin with. After the car ran smooth for about a week and then my described it having a vibration and thought something fell off. We took it back to the shop and they checked it over and rebalanced the tires and suspected that maybe a weight or two fell off.
The car ran fine again and then this past weekend I was driving and noticed that around 60-70 the car vibrated but not consistently, as it slowed from 70 to 60 it seemed to vibrate more. I also noticed around 25 that it had the vibration occasionally and could feel a slight jerking or tug to the left.
My guess is I have a broken or cracked motor mount since its not consistent at any speed. My reasoning is that at the lower as I accelerate the engine rpms are causing the jerking and as I slow down the decrease in rpms is causing the vibration.
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A few months ago I bought a used 2008 Mazda3s sedan, and ever since I get an intermittent burning rubber smell from my rear left wheel. I recently got new tires, brake pads, and had the rotors turned, with no change.
The smell does not always happen, it will be there maybe one out of 3 or 4 times, and it is more likely to happen after long drives (e.g., one hour highway driving).
The wheel well also feels very hot. The obvious answer would be that the brake caliper is sticking, causing friction, heat, and the burning smell. However, if I touch the rotor it feels the same lukewarm temperature as the other three.
One additional thought is that this is caused by the exhaust, which is right next to this wheel well. I have noticed that the area of the floor of the trunk right above the exhaust gets very hot, which I had not seen in any other car I owned.
Could it be that the exhaust is causing the rubber of the tire (or something else) to overheat and smell bad? Visually, it does not look like the tire has a different wear or different appearance, compared to any other one.
This may or may not be related: my handbrake seems to be useless If I leave it on I can easily drive with little to no noticeable slowdown... I guess the previous owner did not read the part of the manual where it says you have to release the handbrake before you drive.
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Have a 2007 Avalon, original owner. For past 3 winters, when temp is 10F or less, there is a loud clicking sound when the car turns left from a stop. The frequency of the clicking sound increases as the car accelerates. Once the car makes the turn, the sound stops. In extremely cold weather (0F or less) the noise happens when turning right, but less intense. The clicking usually goes away after driving several miles and will return after sitting outside overnight or for 4 or 5 hours if the temp is below 10F. Dealer claims all of the CV joints are good. I drove it with a tech this morning and it was clearly present.
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Have a 2012 Camry LE with about 12,000 miles on it. Lately the weather has been warmer so I'm driving with the window open and I've noticed a slight clicking sound coming from the front end (only when turning right) when going through a corner like an off ramp on on ramp. I tried tapping the brakes but that had no effect. It almost sounds like the brake scraper, but not as harsh. The original brake pads couldn't be worn out yet.
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For the last few weeks my car has been making a winding sound at highway speeds. It sounds as if it is winding out at high rpms but it isn't. When I let off the gas, the sound doesn't decrease until the car begins to slow significantly. It also seems not to make the sound if I am going around a right hand curve. The car is a 2005 5-speed mazda 3.
What the problem might be? And is it safe to drive 600 miles back home before having it checked out. With the holiday, I don't have many options.
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What is the cause for a clicking sound coming from Left hand side wheelwell area when I make semi tight Left hand turns from a parked/stationary position?
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I have a 06 PT cruiser with about 70k miles.About a month ago a small click started near the left front tire. I thought it was a pebble and checked the tire to find none. It increases volume and frequency with speed. There's no vibration or grinding. Brakes are good, and I just had the bearings replaced about 6 months ago.
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I'm having a problem with my 2012 Mazda3 (automatic, non-skyactive model) that others seem to be complaining about on the online forums, but there seems to be no consensus.
About 10,000 miles into owning the car, it started making a sort of high-pitched gargling sound when I accelerate and the tachometer reads 1500-1900 RPMs. At first, the sound occurred sporadically when I was accelerating under these conditions, but now, at 28,000 miles, it's happening almost every time I accelerate between 1500-1900 RPMs. Here are a few more facts:
The engine must be warm. The car must be in drive (I cannot replicate it in neutral or park)The sound occurs regardless of whether the AC is on
I took it to the dealer 3 times. The first time, they changed the belt, and that worked for about 1000 miles. The second time, they told me that the noise is normal, and I should not worry. The third time, I took it to a different dealer, and they put a "dressing" on the belt. That worked for about 600 miles. Now the sound is back again, and it's driving me nuts. It definitely doesn't sound normal. If I test drove a car at 28,000 that made this sound, I definitely wouldn't buy it.
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I have a 2002 Accent that has this clicking sound coming from what sounds to be the left hand side under the hood. The click sounds like two marbles colliding. The car runs ok otherwise, but I would like to know about that sound.
I took a video, but its kind of hard to hear it. But if you listen close enough, you can hear it.
2002 Hyundai Accent click noise in engine - YouTube ...
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So yesterday i just noticed a ticking sound (drivers side, almost sounds like its coming from from under my drivers seat underneath the car) when i make sharper turns, but it wont tick when i make regular turns or go around corners.
I lowered my car about 5 or 6 months ago on Tein S Tech 9th gen springs, could that have caused whatever this ticking sound is to start ?
2010 Corolla
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We have a mystery: there's a clunking sound from our right front wheel when we turn, but our mechanic can't figure out why - he says the axle, struts and ball joint there all look fine. What else could be causing the sound - is he missing something important? This sound happens about 50% of the time on turns. Note that we recently (about 10 days ago) had the ball joint and struts replaced on the LEFT front wheel - could that have done something to the balance of the axle, etc. that is making this sound happen on the right front wheel? This is an old car (a 1996 Mazda Protege with 115,000 miles on it) but it's been well-maintained and is otherwise running well.
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The car is a 2.8L w/ a manual tranny. The car was making a rhythmic clunking and clicking noise around right hand turns on the left wheel. So when the weight of the vehicle is applied to the left, that's when the noise occurs. The car has been in the shop for 6 days and the technicians have replaced both axle shafts (it was time to do so anyway) but the noise is still there!!! What could possibly be making that noise other than bad CV's? The rhythm of the noise coincides with the rotation of the wheel/shaft which is where they have focused. Could it possibly be bad strut mounts? This is driving me crazy!!! They tell me its perfectly safe to drive (how do they know this when thy don't know whats wrong?) but I can't imagine this can carry on much longer without something breaking.
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Our 2008 Mazda CX 9 has been making a grinding sound and also the ABS light comes on when we make a right turn on a slight decline after having come to a stop. We have reported to Mazda multiple times but they always say they can't replicate the problem and can't find anything. I am concerned that something in the car is becoming more and more damaged because there is no way something grinding like that can be good for the car and I am frustrated that it's never been diagnosed especially now that it's out of warranty although I established a record of the issue long before the warranty period expired.
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