Mazda - Mazda3 :: Metal Screeching Sound Started Coming From Under Driver Side Of Car


Apr 18, 2014

Yesterday, I was dropping off a friend, and after a minute or so of being parked, when I started rolling forward again, this very loud, metal on metal screeching sound started coming from under my car, seemingly on the driver's side. I thought there was maybe something under the car, but I looked, and found nothing. When I tried to leave her street the noise got so loud I was scared and stopped again, and her neighbors came out because they heard it. Again, examination of the wheels, undercarriage, under the hood, it all looked normal. Turning the steering wheel didn't make the noise, but bouncing the hood made a slight squeak in the same area. So I parked it, and this morning had it towed to my mechanics. Of course, once it got there, they said it drove fine, they hear no noise, and saw nothing wrong with the brakes, tires, or axles. Basically, they think I'm crazy.It was lightly misting when this happened but not real rain or anything. The mechanic said they don't see any evidence that anything was stuck in there that might've gotten dislodged by the tow. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow, but is there anything I should have them check before that?

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I got a brand new 2011 Mazda 3 i Sport 4 door sedan in May and it's been great so far. Lately though, I have started to hear a sound coming from the back left hand side of the car. It really closely resembles the sound of tapping one's finger on a counter top. When I'm stopped, there's no noise but when I go I can hear it. As I go faster it goes faster as well and when I slow down it slows down. What is going on?

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Mazda - Mazda3 :: 2004 - Clattering Sound Coming From Left Rear Wheel

I have a 2004 Mazda 3 with 90K miles. Brakes, rotors, and rear calipers were replaced about two months ago. About a month after, I started noticing a clattering sound coming from the left rear wheel whenever I drove over rough road. (It sounds like an aluminum pot lid dropping onto the pot.) The shop that did the original brake work took 4 visits to get everything done. Instead of going back, I went to another mechanic who said the left caliper was loose. He showed me how he could shake it. He said the bolts were tight so it wasn't a safety issue.

I went back to the original shop for repair but they could not reproduce the noise and said the brakes/calipers were fine.

The noise remained. I went to a third shop which checked the caliper and said it was fine, but said that I needed new shocks. The mechanic had the car on the lift and was able to reproduce a similar noise on both rear wheels when he hit them with a rubber mallet.

The first mechanic insists the caliper is bad. The second insists it's the shocks.

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Is the CV joint shot, considering this is only an intermittent sound, or is there something else that could be happening? Also, what is a typical repair cost for a CV joint (or half axle replacement) on a 2007 Mazda3?

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Toyota - Solara :: 2003 - Metal On Metal Sound Near Driver Side Of Engine

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I hear a metal on metal scraping/screeching sound with the windows down and only when i drive by guard rails and other stuff sound reflects off of. I saw the traveling hub zerk thread and that's what made me think of it. I've zerked every fitting I've seen, but this ones new to me. Problem is I can't even tell witch wheel (if any) it's coming from. It's consistent with speed.

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For the last few weeks my car has been making a winding sound at highway speeds. It sounds as if it is winding out at high rpms but it isn't. When I let off the gas, the sound doesn't decrease until the car begins to slow significantly. It also seems not to make the sound if I am going around a right hand curve. The car is a 2005 5-speed mazda 3.

What the problem might be? And is it safe to drive 600 miles back home before having it checked out. With the holiday, I don't have many options.

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Golf V R32 :: Occasional Metal Grinding Noise Coming From Front Driver Side

A year ago I heard occasional metal grinding noise coming from the front, sounding like front driver side. Sounded like CV joints that I heard before. The mechanic said it's transfer case/transmission problem, so I replaced the transmission but the noise came back a few days later. The mechanic said to drive it for a while and the noise may go away, if getting worse he can fix it since it has 2-year warranty.

Now a year later the noise becomes predicable and easily reproducible, I went back and asked them to check. They said it may be passenger side axle. I am feeling being manipulated.

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Mazda - Mazda3 :: Front Passenger Side Tire Bottoms Out When Going Over Bumps

I have been trying to fix a problem with my 06 Mazda3 (almost 90K miles) for, maybe 7-9 months now. I just got home from getting my struts all changed for about $1200 (and I would guess I am $1700+ in the hole overall on it) without fixing the problem.

It started that going over bumps would cause the front passenger tire to "bottom out" and yield a quick "thud-thud-thud" that was very distinct from sound the driver side made, which was fewer, deeper "thuds". The, later, I got noises that initially sounded like the tire brushing against the wheel well when I made sharp right turns. The noise would be more pronounced when I would turn hard right from a stop (so I would be accelerating). I would also sometimes get the suspension to "shudder" on the passenger side when I would accelerate suddenly. It seems like the nose of the car dipping during acceleration is what gets the rubbing/grinding noise.

I have brought this up at 3 oil changes at different places and brought the car in multiple other times when it bothered me. Every time they have told me everything looks fine. The noise used to happen sporadically but I could do it intentionally if I tried. Now it has gotten worse and it even happens when I bring it to the tire place, so at least I seem less paranoid. I am comforted that everything looks in order, but have avoided even getting on the highway for months fearing my wheel would fly off.

Since this started, I have:- replaced the tires- rotated the tires- replaced the brakes- replaced the front shocks- replaced all of the struts (2 hours ago)

and in my ignorance and desperation tried to replace the wheel bearings, cv joints, and tie rods but was told they are fine. I had to push to get the shocks replaced, using the mileage as justification.

I am going to bring the car back to where I had my struts done 7am tomorrow morning, tell them it is still happening, and see if they can take another look. If no dice maybe I'll call car talk a few hours later.

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For the past few months, pretty consistently, whenever I engage the clutch from full stop into first gear (it does it when starting in second gear too; and reverse) there is a pretty obnoxious and loud screeching noise that I would liken to a subway/train braking or just metal on metal grinding situation. When I took the car in to Douglas for an oil change and APR Stg 1 flash, they told me it's just the brakes being cold, etc. After driving the car some more, I really doubt that it's the brakes and I can reproduce this regularly by slowly releasing the clutch and get the noise usually just before the gear engages.

That car has just over 16K on the clock and has never been abused. The clutch pedal feels fine and there is no issue shifting into any of the gears other than the noise. No mods other than the APR Stage 1.

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I'm having a problem with my 2012 Mazda3 (automatic, non-skyactive model) that others seem to be complaining about on the online forums, but there seems to be no consensus.

About 10,000 miles into owning the car, it started making a sort of high-pitched gargling sound when I accelerate and the tachometer reads 1500-1900 RPMs. At first, the sound occurred sporadically when I was accelerating under these conditions, but now, at 28,000 miles, it's happening almost every time I accelerate between 1500-1900 RPMs. Here are a few more facts:

The engine must be warm. The car must be in drive (I cannot replicate it in neutral or park)The sound occurs regardless of whether the AC is on

I took it to the dealer 3 times. The first time, they changed the belt, and that worked for about 1000 miles. The second time, they told me that the noise is normal, and I should not worry. The third time, I took it to a different dealer, and they put a "dressing" on the belt. That worked for about 600 miles. Now the sound is back again, and it's driving me nuts. It definitely doesn't sound normal. If I test drove a car at 28,000 that made this sound, I definitely wouldn't buy it.

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Camry :: 2010 - Passenger Side Rear Brakes Making Metal On Metal Sound

At 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)

When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)

However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.

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Both shops (Pep Boys and dealer) told me it's quite expensive to replace. I just started looking around and I do see aftermarket cats for a few hundred. How hard can this replacement be for the average driveway mechanic?

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