Struts - Corolla :: 2008 - Wandering At Highway Speeds At 60 Mph And Above
Feb 27, 2016
My wife and I have owned our '08 Corolla since brand new. It is up to 162,000 miles now, and has developed a fairly serious handling issue. The car wanders at highway speeds (60mph+). This generally only occurs with some wind, on a long straight without wind you can take your hands off the wheel and it goes straight without issues. With wind, either natural or from nearby vehicles, it wanders around even if you're in a long sweeping turn. It doesn't weave totally out of a lane, but it does feel very unstable. On dry roads it's mostly a nuisance, requiring two hands and being tiring. If it's raining, however, the car feels like it's trying to hydroplane constantly, although I don't think it's actually hydroplaning that's just the sensation.
It started probably 20,000 miles ago and has gotten dramatically worse in the last ~5,000. I took it to a shop and asked them to go through the suspension and they gave it a clean bill of health. After that I took it in for tires and an alignment (needed tires anyway) and told the tire shop what I was experiencing. They put 4 new tires on, plus an alignment, and said they didn't find anything wrong with it either. As an aside it's running the stock steel wheels still.
I drive 50 miles each way to work, mostly highway, so this is getting to be a serious problem. It's to the point that I drive my truck when it's going to be raining, and white-knuckle it in the corolla when it's dry out. I've read similar accounts, and checked everything that other people have found to cause similar issues, and so have two shops. Tierod ends and control arm bushings are good. The rack seems good (no play at all in the steering wheel) plus I've driven plenty of vehicles with slop in the steering and they didn't feel like this and only tended to wander when going straight because a sweeping turn takes the play out of the steering. The struts are original all around, but the car easily passes the "bounce test". Is there a better way to check them?
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Wondering if this is just my car or something that's common with the Gen 1? After my car gets warmed up, just over 150F, the first stop or coast the engine will shut off. But unless I stop again and wait the 5 seconds or so for the engine to stop, I can't get it to shut off again down a hill or coasting. I need to stop, let it shut off, then after that all is good. Lift foot, engine off. Drives me nuts when I have a long hill and it doesn't shut off! (I'm using a scan guage II to watch the rpm and water temp)
Also a question on the steering, we took a 550 mile trip this past weekend, all interstate. Although it was a little windy, the car takes constant steering input to keep it in the center of the lane. It did get old after that many miles! Common problem? I read a little on the Gen2 having problems like that but the solution was dealer adjustments. The previous owner did have a new rack put in in 2008.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS with a manual transmission which has developed a shudder. When this shudder started, it only occurred when accelerating at highway speeds, or maintaining highway speeds. Now it happens at lower speeds if I give it gas without downshifting, but at reasonable RPM, 3000-5000. I cannot feel the shudder in the steering wheel, but the whole car shakes, and it definitely feels like it is coming from the front end. I have had the tires balanced and rotated. I also have replaced the IACV and MAF due to a CEL. These were replaced after the shudder started. For a few days after the replacement, the CEL returned, but now I am no longer getting it.
There are no visibly obvious issues with the suspension or the drive shafts or CV joints, and the motor mounts likewise look okay. I am not getting a CEL of any kind, and I replaced my plugs 6 months ago, but I pulled them anyway, and they are not fouled. I don’t think the issue is in my suspension, steering, or wheels because I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. I don’t think my half shafts are warped because the shudder happens at varying speeds, and the instant I let off of the gas, it stops. Though this doesn’t rule them out completely, there is no clicking from the CV joints. When I brake, the car slows smoothly, so the rotors are fine. I have run injector cleaner a couple of times, and octane boost once. These both seemed to solve the issue, but did not make it stop, and it has gotten worse lately. My wife did put low-octane gas in the car once, but it was weeks ago.
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Is this behavior normal: I test drove a 2010 corolla LE with 4-spd auto, 41K miles. Noticed that on level highway 60 mph that whenever I eased up on the gas that the RPMs would shoot down. Vehicle speed was barely decelerating since I was on level. As soon as gas reapplied (gently), then the RPMs would shoot up. I'm guessing the delta was like 300 RPM. I get the impression that at highway speeds the car is mostly in 3rd gear or shifting up and down a lot. I've read a lot about a TSB for 2011 corollas but nothing for 2010. And I think that problem is different. So my question is whether this is "normal" for driving at highway speeds?
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I'm having an issue with my wife's 2008 Camry. We're feeling vibration at highway speeds. Feels like it's coming from the front passenger side. We've had all 4 tires replaced (two of them replaced twice because we got lucky and the shop gave us a set of 4 for free with all the trouble we were having with the goodyear tires they sold us), and added hub-centric rings to her wheels. There are no noises to tell me whether it's a cv axle or a bearing. I've been under the car and the only thing I can find that comes close to loose is that the passenger side axle has a just a little more side to side play (runout - inner cv) than the driver's side.
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My 2008 Ford Focus SE hesitates at highway speeds, seems to decelerate and accelerate, sometimes more, sometime less and sometime not at all. dosn't seem to affect the acceleration.
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06' 5.4 screw 100K... At 55mph my truck just stopped running, I pulled over to the side of the road and after two trys the truck restarted but ran rough. Auto Zone pulled a code that said replace the throttle position sensor, I did and the same thing happened again two weeks later just as before.
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My T&C strikes again... Now it shakes when braking at highway speeds (thinking rotors are warped and need changed), but today the brake light, traction control, and ABS lights all come on and stay on when I drive...
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Have a 2008 Elantra GLS with 63K miles. A/T was serviced by dealer at 51K. Car now occasionally downshifts from 4th to 3rd when driving between 60 and 70 mph. Happens only when trans is hot (after 2-3 hours on hiway). When it occurs, it searches for the right gear, going back and forth from 3rd to 4th for several minutes before returning to normal. One thing odd is if I shut the car off for 5 minutes after it occurs, it runs fine afterwards. Do I need an ECU update or do I have a A/T problem?
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I drive a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500. It has 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. I have heard from some old timers that if I drive in 4hi at highway speeds it will damage the vehicle. The manual does not say anything about not driving highway speeds in 4hi. I only drive in 4 hi when there is lots of snow on the road (I-25/I-70 between Colorado Springs and the mountains mostly). Any good info on this? I understand how 4hi is no good on dry pavement (I've made that mistake a few times), but in a snowy situation on the interstate where I am not making any turns, only highway curves, is there anything wrong with it? I am talking speeds like 50-70 mph.
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I have a 2007 F150 King Ranch Super Crew 5.4 3v and it makes a ticking sound. I have read about the VCT solenoids and the phasers. My issue is that the ticking noise can be heard at Highway speeds. At it seems to be quicker as the engine speed increase. Not sure what to think. No rough idle. What could this be.
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First, details about my truck. 2007 F150 SuperCrew, 2wd, 5.4, 203,xxx miles on it, leveled with Hell Bent Steel 2.5" kit last year, has been aligned professionally since then, tires are good and balanced.
The issue I have is a vibration, kind of the same feeling when driving on a road surface that has had the top level of asphalt removed before it's resurfaced. It's mostly noticable at highway speeds. Its not a violent type vibration, but you can feel it. There is also a sound, similar to tires with a deep off road type tread.
The sound and vibration more noticeable when making lane changes or when wheel turned towards left, at highway speeds, not as much to the right. I've checked front wheel bearings, they are good, zero play, no loose suspension parts, u-joints are good, no leaks anywhere.
Since it makes the noise and vibration a bit more when moving wheel, could it be a power steering pump? The pump is the original.
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Getting wind noise from the A pillar drivers side at highway speeds?
I'm getting what I feel is excessive wind noise almost like my window is cracked open. I'm sure this is something the dealer would be able to fix under warranty correct?
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5.4L... My truck has a momentary moan / growl / bog down issue. It happens at town and highway speeds and usually when I have cruise on OR when I lightly apply the gas peddle. It moans for a few seconds and seems to bog down then comes out of it and carry's on its way. You can hear it plainly while driving even with radio on. I have a regular muffler on the truck but when this happens, it makes it sound like I have a catback on it.
Things i have done...
- New air filter
- New oil/filter
- New fuel filter
- Ran techron injector cleaner through tank of gas
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I have an '05 F150 5.4L with 110k miles on it. Bought it used about 2-3 years ago and have had on-going ignition system problems. The current problem is a significant shudder/shake/vibration that occurs when driving 50mph+ (easy to reproduce around 65-70) on the freeway, when starting up a minor, but noticeable incline. This is an incline that doesn't require much additional throttle, and this trouble occurs with cruise control on and off. the truck starts shuddering pretty rough during the incline. However, if I release the accelerator (and go up incline with slightly lower speed) or give lots of gas on accelerator the shudder usually stops. The shudder always clears after the incline when returning to flat road and just cruising.
This occurred on a recent trip a few times and I pulled the following codes (in order):
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring): misfire on cylinder 2
I have since purchased and replaced the coil on #2. This did not resolve the problem. I have replaced coil on #6 in the last year...
Because I saw a suggestion somewhere on the net around this problem while searching, that this could be related to OD, I tried disabling OD and enabled OD on an incline today to test after replacing COP on #2 and it seemed to resolve the issue to turn OD off. Not sure if related...?
Other observation: Cab of truck often smells of gas just after starting the truck. Mentioned this to the shop, but they didn't find anything obvious.
Short history of codes and work that has been done:
Sometime in early 2011: Ford service dept did this work.
First failure was coil bad on #7. Tech swapped 7 & 8 to verify the problem followed the coil. Then when the problem DID follow the coil, he replaced #8 with new.
05/2011 MacKenzie Ford changed all plugs
12/2011 - swapped out COP on #7.
02/2012 - P0306 - Now, COP #6 is reported as bad.
November/December 2012
P2104 P Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) - Forced Idle
P2112 P TAC Stuck Close
P2111 TAC Stuck Open
I did throttle body clean - removed it and used TB cleaner. replaced...
Late December 2012 - while driving on freeway at speeds 50+, but easily reproduced around 60 after starting up a slight incline. symptom is heavy shudder/shake. Possibly resolved by turning OD off.
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring) : Misfire on cylinder 2
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2006' screw, 5.4L, 116K miles ... The truck looses power at highway speeds to the point that I need to pull off of the road. When this happens the check engine light is on and the truck is still running but will not accelerate, is it possible the computer is going into limp mode and if so what would cause this?
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So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
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My 2012 Honda Civic, with 71000 miles, is showing obvious signs of ball joint problems - a rattle at speeds over 50mph, and LOTS of noise when I go over a bump. I had a quick oil change yesterday, then immediately noticed the problem. Brought it back to the manager of the shop, who looked at it and couldn't find a problem (naturally). He said that the car would pass inspection with flying colors.
Is this a coincidence? Could I have worn ball joints on a car that's 2.5 years old? What could these people have possibly done to cause this problem? Could it be struts? The winter has created frost heaves which turned my street into a third-world road, and the car was involved in an accident 1.5 years ago when some lady ran a red light on me.
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I have a new Corolla and live in a city with really bad roads. My other vehicles I've had before this one have all taken a real sh#@ kicking and abuse as a result of the roads. I'm wondering if changing out the shocks and struts before they get too worn is good preventative maintenance to protect the overall integrity of the car? If this is something I should do, how many kilometres on the shocks / struts should I have before change out?
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I went into a shop today and got my corolla checked out and they said that its shock absorbers and struts should be replaced because the oils were leaking and they told me the total estimate of my cost (parts+labors) are about 1300 dollars.
Like, do I need to buy all shock absorbers, struts and strut springs for each of the wheel? (front 2 + rear 2 = total of 4 of each) ??
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Replace rear hatch struts? Mine don't raise the hatch all the way up and sometimes hit my head so would like to replace struts.
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