Subaru :: Replacing Filter And Filling Transmission Fluid?
Jul 1, 2015
I just drained and filled my transmission fluid and replaced the filter. My first time doing it myself. I measured the amount of fluid that came out and it came to just under 6 quarts. I started refilling it and so far I've put a little over 5 quarts in. I figured I'd check the dipstick as i got close to the amount and add more little by little until it's at the full line. The dipstick is showing fluid well above the full line (about 2 inches above). Is that normal when it's just been filled? Should I run it for a few minutes and check it again?
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As I was changing my oil last week I noticed that there was a thick, dark green fluid near my front left shock and on the automatic transmission filter. The fluid appeared to be sprayed on the underbody of the car. I am unable to notice any change in automatic shifting or in the front left shock. The photo shows the filter (?transmission filter) on the top, the shock is at the bottom right. This is slightly behind the left front tire. This was not anywhere else under the car and did not appear to be road grime.
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I have a 2005, I4. At 60K miles did a transmission pan drop and filter change. Now at 75K doing a drain and refill, I realized that instead of the 3.7qt's I need around 5qt of fluid to get it to the normal level. Also drained 5 qt's.
So I am assuming the new transmission filter/strainer is not holding as much fluid as the original strainer.
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After having changed the oil in my 04 Forester multiple times, I must have lost my mind and drained the transmission fluid. I realized this when I started it back up and it wouldn't move. Clearly I put an oil filter on with engine oil around the seal. Should I do a tranny flush or can I just replace filter (with correct one) and fill with tranny fluid?
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How often should I change my transmission fluid and filter for my 2011 Golf 2.5? Should I do it every 18k miles-ish?
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I have been negligent regarding the timeliness of replacing my transmission fluid on my 2007 Honda CRV. Have 70K miles without changing and was told by the dealership that it should be drained and refilled because it was no longer pinkish in color and was brown. I asked about flushing and they said something about the pressure may damage the "celenoids?" and cause the transmission to not shift smoothly. I asked 2 different mechanics at local gas stations and they each said to flush it (although one said that if the fluid was black he wouldn't advise flushing and just replace, and the other said that if over 100K, that flushing could cause the transmission not to shift smoothly).
The dealership wanted 120 to drain and replace, the gas station mechanics want approx 240 to flush.
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I was very surprised after the fact that my VW golf has no stick for checking the transmission fluid under the hood. How to add more fluid into the automatic transmission ?
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My owner's manual states that I should change my transmission fluid and filter at 100,000 miles for a vehicle that experiences "normal" driving. My question is this- should I follow the owners manual on this or change out the fluid and filter at 75,000 miles? I just turned 70,000 miles and the fluid is not showing any signs of burnt material it and it still looks and "smells" healthy. Oh, I would consider myself a "normal" driver as well. The vehicle is a 2004 Chevy Silverado 4x4 with the 5.3 L engine.
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I have replaced my cv axle and seal, and now I have transmission fluid leaking from the axle seal. What could be the cause of this? The seal is brand new as is the cv axle. Could it be that it the seal isn't seated correctly? What could possibly went wrong to cause this?
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The VW Owners Manual for my 2009 VW TDI Jetta indicates that the automatic transmission fluid and filter should be changed every 40,000 miles. However my independent mechanic's "after market" maintenance manuals say that the DSG should not be touched for the life of the car. I am perplexed
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Just changed transmission fluid and filter at 175,000 on my 2000 V-10 and now I have a whinnying sound and shifting that does not feel sure footed. It worked fine before the change. Fluid is synthetic and filter is Ford Motorcraft. Did it just go?
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First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
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2003 echo automatic, 168,000 kms doing a routine maintenance, getting tranny fluid changed, is there a filter to change on these cars or is fluid enough.
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time to change the tranny fluid and filters on my 2010 F250. nothing in my owners manual about this.
All the parts look up places say I need 2 filters, the internal (FT-180) and an external (FT-145).
Problem is that I cannot seem to find the location of the external filter.
Doing some research, it looks like mid-08 the external was eliminated. So, do I have just the internal or do I have the 2?
Regarding the fluid. If I use the Maxlife dex/merc that says meets the LV spec, will that be ok to mix with whatever is in there now? (assuming LV, but I bought used with 145k on it, no idea if its been serviced before and if so, with what).
Going to check with dealer about the hot flush machine, but I really doubt they have one, and I'm kinda concerned about doing a flush at 150K not knowing the history of it.
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Was going to change my transmission fluid and filter today but when I got under the truck to see what tools I needed, I was not sure I could drop the pan enough to get it off.
I have a 2009 V10 4X4 and the exhaust pipe catalytic are running down each side right under where the transmission pan is. It looks like I can get to all the bolts, but because of the catalytic are right under the flange of the pan on each side, the pan will not be able to drop straight down. It looks like it may drop about 3 inches before it hits the catalytic.
Will that be enough to slide the pan forward or maybe tilt it to get it out? Has anyone dropped the pan on their 4X4 with the 5RW100? Just looking to have someone say I can get it out before I try it.
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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A gather that the recommended interval for a transmission fluid change is 3 years or 30k miles? And that is drain, change the filter if any, and refill, not ask because the users manual says nothing. Does this apply to a CVT transmission? What about differentials?
(2015 Forester, non-turbo, CVT)
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Is it necessary to check (or change) the fluid levels in the CVT and the differentials?
The manual has the following confusing statement for those:
Continuously variable transmission fluid. It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. Check that there are no cracks, damage or leakage. However, the fluid inspection should be performed according to the maintenance schedule in the “Warranty and Maintenance Booklet”.
The Maintenance Booklet list inspection every 30k miles for : Transmission gear oil, CVT fluid, front and rear differential gear oil.
Another question, how is the Transmission gear oil different from the CVT fluid? And should there not be a third differential, or is that part of the transmission?
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My CEL has come on about four times in the last month shortly after replacing the air filter with a pepboys Purolator air filter. I have cleaned the MAF sensor each time using MAF cleaner and the issue along with the CEL go away then come back in about a week.
I don't know if the MAF sensor is bad because each time i clean it, the issue stops. also, upon first glance at the Purolator filter, i thought it looked a little thicker than the stock one but I didn't think twice about it.
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So I just got new wiper blades for 2001 Toyota Echo, and started to fill the washer reservoir tank when I immediately heard it drip down underneath. I accidentally filled it past the line, and after a few minutes, the bottom portion of the reservoir was still blue, so I think the leak/crack is located towards the top/neck.
But, the issue that has me a little concerned is that I also noticed that when I activate the windshield washer switch, I immediately hear fluid spraying and gushing. No fluid comes out the nozzles. I hear the pump.I don't think it happens at the pump/tank/hose area at the bottom of the tank. I think its occurring inside the fender. I see water drip down the fenderwall onto the tire and ground.
That hose seems to go from the washer fluid tank to the passenger fender and through it and alongside it and comes out near where the hood bolts to the hinge. If the hose is leaking there behind the fender, how I am supposed to access the area in question.
I understand removing the bottom splash cover will give me access to under the fluid tank. Removing the bumper would probably give me access to the tank itself? But that washer tube just rides up along the fender out of sight before it emerges out the back..so what is the proper/easy way of being able to access/route that tube..couldn't really find it in the factory manual. Would removing the fender give me access to the tube?
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After replacing the fuel filter, O2 sensor, and checking plugs and wires and the rotor, my 91 toyota corolla is still sputtering and its driving me nuts.
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