I have a 1996 Toyota corolla base model,my dome light stopped working a bout a year ago,I clean the contacts and bulb with sand paper,light would then work for about 2 weeks now When I clean contacts light will only work for a few hours. Have tryed new bulbs many times does not make any difference, don't know what to do.
View 1 Replies1996 Toyota Corolla base model 1yr ago dome lite would stop working,I then would sand contacts on dome lite and sand bulb it would then work for about 1 month now I do the same thing and lite will only work for about 20 min.(tried new bulbs many time) was told could be corroded or a bad relay, dont know what to do????
View 3 RepliesI own a 2000 Toyota Carolla, in reasonably good shape (95,000 miles) with no rust on the body (it was a Texas car until last year). This problem happened in Texas, on the unusual times that it froze, and in Michigan, obviously very often. The car freezes: the doors edges, locks, latches, wipers, wiper fluid, windows, and trunk freeze solid. I've tried using the lock de-icers, hand sanitizer, WD-40, hairdryers, special fluid for the wipers etc. all to no avail. I live in an apartment complex so I do not have a heated garage at my disposal. This is a very annoying problem, which often means I cannot use my car, even though the rest of it works perfectly. I've searched the Internet for more answers, but find none. Clearly, there is moisture inside the car that freezes up in cold weather... but I can't imagine how or why. I've never spilled anything in there, and it's had a long, hot summer of drying out if there had been something there. But on the first freeze of the year, viola: no frigging way can I get into my beloved little auto.
View 11 RepliesMy 1994 Toyota Corolla's speedometer just stopped working while I was driving this morning. Does this mean that there could be something worse going on than just my speedometer?
View 4 RepliesSo I took my 2005 Corolla this morning to get it detailed at a Eco Detailing place. They use steam instead of water. When I picked it up it looked good and I left. On the way home I went to turn on the radio and nada. No lights, no sound. The rest of my dashboard was working fine. So I called the place and told the main dude what happened. He said this happens sometime when the doors of the car are left open for three - four hours. He said give it a couple of days and the radio would reset. I'm pretty doubtful. I have all the windows down in the car to dry out any left over humidity.
View 3 RepliesAll lights and wipers just stopped working on my 78 corolla. Replaced fuses did not work. Where do I go from here? I am an absolute novice but want to figure this out.
View 6 RepliesThe air conditioning blower motor stopped working this past summer (worst timing ever). I took it out, put it back in, and it worked again for a day before dying for good. So, I ordered a new one and replaced it. The replacement was working fine for about 5 months, but it then began exhibiting the same problem as the original: it wouldn't come on until after I'd been driving for a while. The new unit never made any unusual noises while running (the old one got noisy just before I replaced it), but now it isn't coming on at all. I find it hard to believe that the replacement blower motor has failed after only 5 months. What else should I check?
View 5 RepliesI'm having a problem with my interior dome light and my door chime bell not working in my '01 F-250. I found that the bulb was blown,so I replaced it thinking it might fix the door chime bell also, thinking they were wired together from the factory.
The new bulb didn't fix the problem. I recall that when I noticed the door bell didn't ding-ding anymore was about the time(when it got dark), that I noticed the dome light was out also.
What I may check? The fuses all work, the interior dome relay switch works and I see nothing else in the owners manual to look for as far as dome lighting and door bell chime.
All of a sudden my radio and clock stopped working, k-checked fuses 20A, seem fine- two days later, the door chimes stopped working, and then the lights are one-chimes stopped, then the key in the ignition, and when the door is ajar, stopped dinging---is this a computer malfunction or sensor-WHICH ONE? 1997 toyota corolla........
View 2 RepliesI have a Toyota Corolla 96. The check light is on. I took it to AutoZone and the guy told me everything is Ok. I looked the oil level this morning and it was low. The temperature sensor is normal and the car runs fine. My car experience is almost zero....
View 13 RepliesI'm having trouble with my '99 F-350 7.3L 4X4. One day, my power windows, cruise, dome light, horn, wipers, and 4 wheel drive stopped working. After checking all of the fuses, I have found no bad ones.
View 3 RepliesMy mechanic cannot figure out what's wrong with my car My car is a manual trans 1996 Toyota Corolla with almost 154K miles. I had the oil changed two weeks ago (about 1000 miles with my commute), and at that time, I let my mechanic know that it's been losing oil and so check it over. At that time, he changed the oil, cleaned the engine, and added a dye to the oil to show up any leaks.
I took it in this past Thursday for him to locate the leaking, and the mechanic let me know that 1) It came in mostly dry (no oil), 2) there was no visible leaking except for a seepage around the oil pan, which he says could not account for the loss of 4 quarts of oil in two weeks, and 3) it's not burning it out in the exhaust system.
A bit of the history of the car. I got it when it was at 59K, used, and there were a number of things wrong with it that I didn't discover until later, such as that no maintenance had been done to it at all in the 60K someone else had owned it. It came to me needing a timing belt, brakes, and an engine and radiator flush (the radiator fluid was brown instead of green).
At one point at around 70K, as a stupid teenager, I did let it run dry. The oil light came on, I panicked, shut it off, dumped in two quarts (which brought it to full on the dipstick, which I thought was weird), and took it straight for an oil change, where they told me it was dry, which was odd, because I'd just put 2 quarts in it.
After that, there were no issues until it hit about 120K. At that point, I started smelling burning oil and there was smoke coming from under my hood, so I towed it to my mechanic at the time. He replaced the valve cover gasket, the rear main seal, and the head gasket (with engine block machining and all). That more or less cleared the problem up, but then I took it across the country on a 3K road trip, and it ended up accidentally running dry again. Oil light came on, I shut it off, dumped in oil, took it for a lube job.
Since that time, it's been occasionally throwing me an oil light when I go downhill (I figure that this is because it's low but not out, and the change in pitch reduces the pressure?). Each time it does this, I've shut it off, coasted to a stop, dumped in 2 quarts (which brings it to full on the stick), and gone on, berating myself. These times have become more frequent, however, even though I now check the oil regularly.
So before I endure the deserved lectures about being dumb, yes, I blame myself, but regardless of my lazy maintenance, it's becoming ridiculous. My car is now finding a way to lose a gallon of oil over the course of 1000 miles, with no discernible leak or consumption.
Also, why my oil light comes on when it's only 2 quarts down on the stick sometimes, and then sometimes goes almost dry without throwing the oil light? I just got it back with the oil topped up, more dye in the engine, and instead of going for 2 weeks, I'm going for 1 week to see if maybe he can catch it in the act of learning this magic trick of vanishing oil.
A few weeks ago on a short drive, my car (2000 Toyota Corolla) started shuddering/pulsating when I was stopped at a red light (and it kept doing that intermittently as I drove the few blocks home.) Next time I tried to start it, it turned over but then died. Towed it to the mechanic, he said it was a dead ignition coil, he replaced the coil and it was able to start again.
Less than a week (and not much driving - 50 miles tops) later, on the highway, it starts shuddering again, feels way underpowered, and the check engine flashes. It's pretty scary. I pull over and have it towed to the mechanic. (It still starts up but doesn't feel safe to drive, plus the check engine light is flashing.) First he says one of the fuel injectors needs to be replaced, then he says that on further testing it was actually another dead ignition coil. He replaces the ignition coil (he didn't end up replacing the fuel injector) and I pick up the car.
It's fine on the drive home (which is about 3 city miles, no highway driving) and on another neighborhood errand, and the check engine light isn't on, but now it's sort of shuddering again. I don't want to keep driving it and/or try it on the highway to wait for it to get worse.
I guess I'll take it in again tomorrow, but does this seem odd at all? I know some people replace all 4 ignition coils at once pre-emptively, but it would seem strange for 3 to fail within ~150 miles (assuming this is yet another ignition coil.) What else might be going on? I had the spark plugs changed last year so those should be fine. The car has pretty low miles on it (about 100k) for the age.
Have a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 Matrix. The AC just stopped working as we were going down the road. The voltage at the compressor was 2.6 volts. the same voltage at the HVAC module I don't hear the compressor kick on at all, engine speed doesn't change when the AC button is toggled on and off.
The AC light stays on steady not blinking. I am pretty sure that there is enough refrigerant in the system.
Car is a 2000 Corolla with 62k miles. My rear brake light (driver side) went out (pretty sure it is the bulb). 2 months ago the blinker relay went out and I replaced it.
Do most mechanics have the bulb on hand?
I have a 2007 Toyota Highlander (130K miles)Recently, the A/C stopped working.
What happens: 1) With the car running and A/C off, turn on A/C2) A/C starts blowing and begins to be cool3) About 10 seconds later, the LED on the A/C control knob starts to blink and stops blowing cool air
A few diagnosis items:
1) Between steps 1 and 2 above, putting a PSI gauge on the low side port shows about 40 psi, which I believe to be normal.
2) After step 3, the PSI gauge shows about 130 psi, which I think is way too high.
3) Replaced magnetic clutch relay with no improvement.
4) When step 3 occurs, a light grinding noise occurs but then stops.
5) No diagnosis codes on the OBD2 port.
While replacing my rear cargo light, I seemed to have tripped a fuse and suddenly, cargo light + 4 door lights + dome lights stopped working.
Looked at the label on the fuse box cover, it's not obvious which fuse governs these, so I ended up testing ALL of the fuses (PITA), which are all good (used voltmeter to do the job). Everything else on the car works, power windows/locks for each door..
My '96 Toyota Corolla has difficulty going beyond 45 mph on the freeway, especially when the temperature gets down to zero. Normally the car shifts into 3rd gear at 45 mph. Instead it has excessive engine noise. I just keep my foot on the gas, and it goes past 50 mph, but with considerable effort. It sounds like I have the car in 2nd gear when driving at 50 mph. Eventually it "lets go" and shifts to 3rd. There is no CEL on, fuel filter replaced, transmission flushed, spark plugs checked last fall. From other issues I've read, I'm guessing it might be a bad thermostat? The car heats fine. Gas mileage is more than normal. No gas smells when I park. Once the engine warms up, I have no problems with the gears shifting. I had this problem a few years ago. Don't know what my mechanic did to fix it. My budget is pretty tight right now, so if I can fix it myself, I'd really like to do so.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Corolla (5-speed, manual transmission) that has never had any problems until the past month or so. About 80% of the time now, the car does not turn over at all upon turning the key first thing in the morning. The dash light indicators (seat belt, brake, etc) come on, but that's ALL. No sounds come from the engine. I turn the key all the way back to the starting position and immediately try again, and the engine starts right up on the second try, almost every time (a couple times it has taken a third try). It will start the first time the rest of the day.
Three things to note that may or may not be related:
1. About 6 months ago, a large tree branch fell on the hood, causing some damage to both front fenders and some dings in the hood.
2. It seems to mainly occur on mornings following a rainstorm, but I can't be sure that is always the case.
3. My key is the original, and occasionally will not unlock the doors (manual locks) on the first try, but when this happens, the key will not turn at all until I mess with it for a bit.
My daughter has a 1996 Toyota Corolla that she bought last year from a personal seller who kept impeccable records on everything that was ever done to the car for maintenence, etc. My mechanic ok'd the buy. For the past few months she has been complaining of it slowing down as it warms up.It was doing this at 60mph to start and now at 45mph. It runs perfect when it is cold but once it warms up it's downhill. The mechanic is stumped. There is no code for it. The distributor seems quite new. The fuel pressure is the same when it is acting up or not. Don't know about fuel volume. Tried replacing the map sensor and another sensor that I cannot remember, to no avail. The car has 172000 miles on it. What can be the cause?
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