94 Sonoma SLS V6 Will Not Restart After Stopped For Fuel Or At Some Place For A Few Minutes
Oct 5, 2014
I have a 94 Sonoma SLS, V6/auto that has a weird problem of not restarting after I stop for fuel or at the house for a few minutes. The engine will crank normally but acts like it isn't getting fuel. I have had the fuel pump replaced already and I just replaced the fuel pump relay. I additionally replaced the coolant sensor(long shot there) when I replaced the radiator due to a leak.
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I have a 1995 GMC Sanoma, 2.2 Lt, 4 cyl, 5 spd. It has about 130K miles. Each day I drive it back and forth to work (about 30 miles one way). About 6 months ago I noticed that at about 5 miles into my drive to work it would stutter but then catch itself and go on the rest of the way with no problems. On the drive home it would do the same thing at about 8 miles into the drive. This didn't really bother me until one day instead of stuttering it stalled but I could restart it right away while coasting. It had steadily gotten worse to where I had to pull over on the side of the road and restart because it wouldn't restart right away. Nowadays I hardly drive it at all because I'm afraid it will stall and not restart at all. I have replaced the air idle control, fuel pump relay and the positive battery cable. The symptons now are basically the same but different, I can start it (anytime, morning or evening) and it will idle fine for about 5-10 minutes. It will then start to stutter and try to catch itself, the idle will then rev up to about 1500 and then come back down and stutter some more before stalling. After that it will not start back up until maybe 10 minutes after, (it acts like it is not getting any fuel) but once it starts it runs fine, I drove it around for about 20 miles and it ran real strong. The next day it went through this same cycle again.
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95 GMC Sonoma SLS 2.2L 5 speed distributorless ignitionStart cold, engine purrs, runs for 20-25 min, idling in drive, then dies as if you shut it off. All fluid levels correct. Will not restart until cools off. Have replaced: coils and ignition module, fuel pump and sending unit, ignition cylinder and ignition switch, oil pressure switch. Engine light does not come on. (bulb is not burnt, comes on when starting). Have checked all grounds.
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After driving for 30 minutes on the freeway, my Sonoma develops a high freq vibration that seems to increase after it starts. lessens a little as I slow, but does not go away until after the car has been parked for a while, but not as noticeable under about 30.. I have experienced this the last three days on my commute to and from work. Did have the breaks checked. I did have a clunk sound when i released the brakes at a stop, but that went away after the first brake check where they did not find anything, but just cleaned out the dust and readjusted. The vibe is pretty strong and makes me nervous to drive.
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I have a 2005 f250 6.0 diesel. I have changed the 2 fuel filters, fuel pump, sending unit (was broke off in tank )and installed the blue spring fuel pressure regulator kit. My truck will run for a few minutes loose fuel and kill. Could this be a sensor or computer problem
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My tail lights have recently stopped working. When I use blinkers, they are slow, and don't blink if brakes are pressed. The brakes show as a very faint light that cannot be seen in day time. I turned on the hazards to look myself, and they started beeping. I called GMC support and it's too old for them to still know anything about it. I checked the fuses for the rear end and they are both working.
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I have a 2008 GX and when the car is in drive and being stopped/held in place with the brakes, it makes a squealing noise, sounds like a loose belt but I don't think it is as it is coming from the transmission area, BEHIND the engine.
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I have Jeep Liberty 2002 with 100300 miles. I having starter problem and the starter was replaced with a new one. Still I am having the same problem, the car can only re-start 30 minutes or more after I shut it off. The mechanic stated that he does not know what it is causing the problem.
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My 1986 B2000 problems started when the engine would run for a few minutes and not restart. After it sat a while, it would restart.
Through out the process of seeking a fix, I have replaced the fuel pump, coil, distributor cap, rotor, pick-up coil in the distributor, condenser, and spark plug wires and coli wire.
Currently, there is no spark out of the coil wire feeding the distribute.There are 12 volts at the positive and negative side of the coil terminals when the key is in the “run” position.There is about 10 volts to each coil terminal when the engine is cranking over.
I have tried using the old coil and the old pick-up coil in the distributor, but with no luck.
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My 2005 Chevy Impala is taking a long time to crank. Now after 10 minutes or so of either idiling or driving, the car stalls out. I am able to restart it. Replaced the battery and no change. Lights are not getting dim in any way so I figure it's not the alternator. Could it be a bad starter?
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2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. This car is driving me crazy. Last summer, we drove it from Denver to San Diego. The trip was perfect but within minutes after we arrived the car would not restart. It has been towed to mechanics 5 times and had the starter replaced twice, the battery, pndlr switch each replaced and of course they always find various other things that are needed that don't have anything to do with starting the car. It will work for awhile and then not start again. The last 2 times, we sent it to the mechanic, they jumped it and could not duplicate the situation after several days trying and sent it home. We thought it might be the radio that was installed a few years ago so we removed it, but now the car won't start again.
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My 1999 Yukon will start up, run for about 5 minutes at idle then die. Then it will not start again till the next day.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line at the fuel filter. It started up, and the pressure gauge went up to 54. I gave it some gas and pressure goes up to about 60 then back to 54 at idle. I sat and watched it for a bit then it died after about 5 minutes and the gauge went below 50 to about 48. I immediately tried to start again and the pressure actually drops a little while cranking to 45 and stayed there.
Whats weird is when I first started it up, I can hear the pump come on and it kicked the pressure up from 0 to 54. Then after dieing, I don't think I can hear the pump come on, and the pressure does not go up at all. I have a feeling tomorrow it will do the same thing, start up after sitting for awhile, then die after 5 minutes.
Does this sound like a fuel pump going bad? or does it sound like an electrical issue with the fuel pump?
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I drive a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix. Yesterday, I drove to the store about 5 minutes away. When I went back to my car 10 minutes later, it wouldn't start. Wouldn't turn over, no clicking, just silence. Finally had to leave it there. When I came back 1 1/2 hours later, it started fine. Same thing happened to me this morning. Drove it 5 minutes, now it won't start. What could it be?
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I've got a 2000 VW Lupo 1.4 automatic (essentially a small version of a VW Polo, sold in Europe). It's got 65000miles on it. The car starts up just fine the first time, summer or winter. If you shut off the motor after a short time, 5 or 10 minutes, restarting it can be a problem. If this happens a third time, starting will be even more difficult. If you drive for awhile restarting is no problem, the pattern starts over again. I've replaced the battery, plugs, gas filter, had the distributor looked at. Restarting became marginally better.
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I have a 2000 BMW 323i with 140,000 miles on it, which has intermittent starting problems. This usually occurs after trying to restart the car within 5 to 10 minutes after turning it off. After several attempts and 10 to 15 minutes, the car does always restart. When the problem occurs, the engine does not turn over at all, but the electrical system seems to work. The dealer has been unable to duplicate the problem.
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My 2003 F150 extended cab (4x4, 4.6) won't take fuel without overflowing and splashing gas all over the place. Even if I run the pump at very low rate it still splashes back.
I replaced the tank last fall and it worked fine afterward for several months but the last few times I tried to fuel it I have had problems. I don't drive it too much so I only need to fuel it once a month or so.
Where I should start looking?
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96 teg 1.8 non vtech after a while it will lose spark some times it runs for a few days then loses spark but will start up with in 10 min sometimes it just just stalls out and loses spark but restarts with in 10 minutes.
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when car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after- cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
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Fuel injected 429 (same as 460). Will run for 10-30 minutes then stall and not restart until 5-60 minutes later. Has fuel pressure at rail.
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my daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
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My sons car is a 96 accord. For some reason, it's developed a new problem. After 15 minutes of driving it will stall, and it will not restart. It seems to be if it's left to sit long enough, it will restart(it does crank, just not turnover). That period of time it needs to sit seems more then 10-15 minutes, but we are not exactly certain. After several hours, it seems to start and run fine. We had it towed to the mechanic, they where not able to reproduce it. It's not overheating, the temp gauge stays below half. No check engine light is on.
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