Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Cannot Clear Codes P0123 And P1605
Oct 21, 2016
My 2001 Accent (Manual Tranny) with 95,000 miles needed the head rebuilt due to the timing belt slipping and making a mess of the valves. The car threw no codes before the mishap and ran perfectly but now shows the codes P0123 and P1605 after the rebuild. The shop that did the work said they spent 5 hrs trying to figure why these codes are showing. They swapped out the TPS which didn't work. I'm not sure if they swapped out the acceleration sensor. Anyway, since I picked up the car,it was idling low at about 500 RPm and fluctuating in neutral (remember its a manual. In the week that followed, the car wouldn't start a few times which I found out to be a loose negative terminal on the battery. Since I fixed that problem, the car idles at about 1,000 RPM when I start it but then jumps up to about 2,000 once it's warmed up or if I downshift and then throw it in neutral! And yes, the same 2 codes show up on my scanner.
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2001 Accent, 1.5L Automatic with OD, 263,000 km
Transmission goes into Fail Safe Mode but the CEL does not light up and code reader shows no codes. Shifts fine in town,1-2-3-4...4-3-2-1, but on highway when going up inclines (steep), transmission downshifts from Overdrive into 3rd,as i press the accelerator it will downshift into 2nd (as normal), until i reach the top of the incline (3500-4000 rpm) but then as the car levels out on the highway, it will shift back and forth between overdrive and 3rd, (jerky shifting) then finally goes into Fail safe mode, 3000 rpm at 80-90 km/h. Once I shut the car off for a few minutes, the transmission is fine and shifts normally. Fluid levels are good. Why the CEL is not giving code?
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The car run ok maybe a little worse economy and has a shudder very sporadically? What's my next step? new MAF?
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I have a 2002 hyundai Accest LC with a 1.6 ltr.-my CEL came on-ran the diagnostic and codes p1505 & p1507 came-up-is this a big problem or can I wait to repair 1-2 mths. What could the possible causes/fixes be?
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What it does means that codes and how solve them is about dtml? How check it?
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Recently bought a `01 Accent 5 speed.. First question . How do I tell if its the 1.5 or 1.6 ? That will really point me in a good start. Ha... Ok.. Check engine light is on and I found a paper in the glove box with some of the codes wrong with it.. The one I focused on was telling me the fuel system was to lean . blah blah blah... Dont remember the exact code as I felt that my research was good and I replaced the MAF sensor... Didnt clear the code...
Also it was sputtering quite a bit in all gears mainly at low rpms. I did change the fuel filter , checked plugs and wires etc.. Now I replaced the MAF sensor and it has not solved the problem.. Took it to have it rescanned and have been given codes p1127 and p0136 .. both seem to relate to the Bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor. question is I have saw the "upstream" sensor located right below the exhaust manifold but did not see a second sensor?
From what I have gathered sensor 1 does the most work, so I`m curious if these 2 sensors are interchangeable? Could I buy the downstream sensor and if that does not solve my problem , take it out on try it in the upstream sensor? Also do you really feel as though just changing that sensor will "cure" my sputtering issue? the car only has 88k on it and seems to be in good shape otherwise.. I really need this check engine light problem fixed so I can get inspection..
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I have a 2000 lc 1.5l ... I just rebuilt the motor machine shop work and all it Will start and run for 3 seconds and then die. If I hold the gas pedal it will run but sound rough and as soon as you let go it dies I have been able to get codes multiple misfires, misfire cylinder 1, misfire cylinder 2, and misfire cylinder 4 I have put brand new plugs (copper core ngk), wires coils, crank sensor, cam sensor, iac, tps, maf and the injectors all have new orings it also has ntk o2 sensors that might have 1000 miles on them...
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Car - 2004 Accent auto.- 1.6l - 97K miles
After battling a few months to get my check engine light - fault code P0304 to go off I finally remedied the problem with 3 bottles/fill ups of STP Gas treatment. This was about 1500miles ago. I go to DMV Inspection station and sat for an hour then wait anther 20minutes for the test to end and was given the big fat rejection sticker, she failed because the check engine light came on with fault codes P0304 & P0441.
Now what the heck happened here? Just bad luck and coincidence or did their test set it off? Anyway the P0441 code is new and researched it is the Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Valve. Okay where is it, the HMA manual is not specific? In relation to the intake manifold where is it? Easy fix? And will this solve my P0304 code?
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Need to clear codes after doing a lot of work on this used Eddie Bauer With the 4.6 engine. Is there a procedure to clear the codes to get a new reading?
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I have an 02 accent with 1.6 that has no reverse and throws P0732 and P0734. How to repair?
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Recently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
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I have followed the process for clearing and resetting the Steering Assist/ABS fault codes. I have done all the steps several times and cannot get the faults to clear, although the VAG-COM indicates all is green during the testing phase.
[URL].................... And the faults will not clear.
Here is the scan results, (non-fault sections removed):
VAG-COM Version: Release 704.1
Data version: 20070422
Sunday,03,June,2007,17:47:17:25986
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 36 42 44 46 47 52 53 55 56 62 65 72 76
[Code] ....
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E-150, 5.8/351
The Haynes manual says not to disconnect battery (for whatever amount of time) to clear codes because it also clears the keep alive memory forcing the computer to relearn.
What is the correct way to clear codes? The manual says talks about jumping the OBD connectors some way but I cannot tell what is showing in the picture.
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I have an 01 accent with a 1.5 engine. Coming up with codes P1123 and p1128. I sprayed manifold with brakekleen and didn't get. Any change in Rpms. Also sprayed maf sensor with maf cleaner. And still have same problems. Some hesitation when I start to go. And while I'm driving. My gas mpg is 25 mpg which seems way low. I just bought car and next day engine light came on with above Codes.
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We have a 2000 Accent that is having some problems. Last year, I took it into our trusted mechanic, who told me that the engine was going downhill - one of the cylinders was dead (this was in response to us wanting to drive it to Texas for our daughter that was stationed there - we just wanted a tune-up). The car ran fine, and here we are a year later - and need a smog.
It does have a problem starting at times when we put fuel in it (at 1 particular gas station) and Hyundai told us it was an EVAP issue and it would cost us $622. (Hyundai NEVER mentioned anything regarding the engine issue). We never got it fixed because again, it only happens at that one station, so we try to avoid it - and the car runs great (it has 190k miles on it).
So now, we need to get it smogged. Same mechanic wouldn't do anything - I pulled codes off my reader and it only gave me the 2 441/442 codes. I cleared the CEL off the dash.
Now, my question is: Should I just take it back to Hyundai for them to do the smog and EVAP repair? Or should I try to have it smogged. I'm not willing to give up on it yet. I'm sure the mechanic thinks it is dying, but I've been told that the engine would run rough and vibrate if a cylinder was dead. Of course, reality may smack me upside the head, but it just runs fine except for the fuel issue, that I'm doubting him.
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Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
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Yesterday, i changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, mass air flow sensor, air filter and replaced the in and out take coolant lines in the throttle body.
Before yesterday, i got random misfire codes that would clear and return, i have no a/c, i believe the thermostat needs replacing as the van runs hot after a while of running and quickly when idling and the upper radiator hose is hot. The van's idle is rough to the point that some one else turned up the idle so it would stop stalling so frequently, especially in reverse. it stalls very very rarely now.
then a few days a go i got a knock sensor code that clears itself and then returns.
A friend changed the distributor cap, and noticed some melting and corrosion, hence the spark plug and wire change. this friend also pulled the wiring harness for the front 3 injectors while it was running. the one on the far right created no audible engine change (also this spark plug was immaculate compared to the others), so he said it is bad (or is my friend a moron?)i had also noticed a coolant hose that would spray coolant when really hot.
So yesterday i tackled the above. In the process of doing this i had to rip the other coolant hose to remove throttle body, i replaced these with a self cut piece of 1/2 heater hose. after removing throttle body, i realized i needed a gasket. so got one of those.
a few notes:i used antisieze lube and dielectric lube on spark plugs, thread and ceramic respectively. the mass air flow sensor is used.i cleaned the throttle valve with brake cleaner (non chlorinated) because it was nasty! i did not remove the cables attached to throttle body, just moved it out of the way while working.i hand tightened everything.there were 2 skinny hoses i disconnected, one with a metal tip that went in to the large rubber air intake hose, and one that ran into the throttle body (this hose ripped like a 1/4 inch off it seemed long enough, so i did not replace). i disconnected the large air intake hose at 3 spots with pipe clamps.i disconnected 3 wiring harnesses 2 at throttle body and 1 at mass air flow sensor
Now, it seems the van is running smoother while getting gas, but rougher when idling. What did i miss? what would be causing a rougher idle? I am now at work, i will not be home till around 9 cst. So I cannot check anything.the van did throw another code, but i have not checked it yet.
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Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. This problem came up all of a sudden. I thought maybe the gas filter was a t fault so I changed it and no change. I went to my usual mechanic and he found the catilizer was all clogged up. After taking the cat off the engine started pissing oil all over the place. In other words the engine was shot. So he find a new engine with only 4000 km on it for $500. I said great put it in. After the install same problem. RPM won't go over 3000. He changed the ECM still no go. What could be the problem?
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I recently got a car, but for some reason I just have this small issue.
My tail lights or brake lights stay on, and I can't seem to have them go off. I checked the switches for the lights, all of them work, but the back lights will not go off.
It's a 2001 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 door.
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I've got an 01 Accent and recently the thing won't start. It's acting as if the battery is dead when I turn the key despite having power to the rest of the car.
It doesn't even turn over but you can hear the gas pump kick in. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch that's faulty but I'd like to see what everybody here has to say before I start taking the column apart.
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I just had lots of work done on my car, and since then the Hyundai radio (HM5064) is not working. I thought I just needed to put the radio code in again, but when I went to do that today, all the LEDS are showing for the stations, time, Cd etc.There is just no sound.
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