Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Transmission Goes Into Fail Safe Mode / No CEL Codes
Nov 9, 2013
2001 Accent, 1.5L Automatic with OD, 263,000 km
Transmission goes into Fail Safe Mode but the CEL does not light up and code reader shows no codes. Shifts fine in town,1-2-3-4...4-3-2-1, but on highway when going up inclines (steep), transmission downshifts from Overdrive into 3rd,as i press the accelerator it will downshift into 2nd (as normal), until i reach the top of the incline (3500-4000 rpm) but then as the car levels out on the highway, it will shift back and forth between overdrive and 3rd, (jerky shifting) then finally goes into Fail safe mode, 3000 rpm at 80-90 km/h. Once I shut the car off for a few minutes, the transmission is fine and shifts normally. Fluid levels are good. Why the CEL is not giving code?
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There had been a lot of discussion about the engine light coming on and the Engine fail safe mode. A lot of folks said the dealer could not fix it. It happened to me and my dealer fixed it. This is what the dealer did to correct the problem
EEC Tested
Code P2106
Disconnected all wheel speed sensors and reprogramed PCM per SSM 17272 and Ford Hotline
No more problems.....
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My auto tranny goes into "safe" mode every so often. It thinks there is something wrong and stays in third gear. The d4 indicator stays on even if another gear is selected (it's indicator light is on too). I changed the fluid (clear, red - in fine condition).
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I was driving at 40 -30 mph on a dark street and rammed through a bit of water ( maybe 4" high and 6 feet across). So right after i got these tranny codes and my tranny went to safe mode kicking hard when shifting:
P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Out Of Self Test Range Or Shorted To Ground
P1783
Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P0712
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Input Low
P1702
Transmission Concern
Luckily I was a block away from home. So i assumed all those sensors shorted with water ( I thought they were all water proof...hmm) so i let them dry.
So the codes went away and the truck seamed fine for 2 weeks until i felt the tranny kicking again into gears yesterday. So today i went on a test drive and it was fine at first until it went into safe mode again with only 2 codes:
P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Out Of Self Test Range Or Shorted To Ground
P1702
Transmission Concern
So, that means the other sensors dried out and i destroyed the TRS? and if so would it malfunctioning cause the tranny to go into safe mode or could there be some other issue?
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So yesterday, this had happened for the third time in 3 years owning this car. Unhooking the battery for 20-30 minutes resets the computer and it is ready to go for a while with no issues. This has become annoying though. What is causing the car to enter "limp" mode and stay in third gear? One time it happened, I brought it to AutoZone and they did a scan and came up with the speed sensor. I haven't replaced it because it didn't happen for a while after that.
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My 2001 Accent (Manual Tranny) with 95,000 miles needed the head rebuilt due to the timing belt slipping and making a mess of the valves. The car threw no codes before the mishap and ran perfectly but now shows the codes P0123 and P1605 after the rebuild. The shop that did the work said they spent 5 hrs trying to figure why these codes are showing. They swapped out the TPS which didn't work. I'm not sure if they swapped out the acceleration sensor. Anyway, since I picked up the car,it was idling low at about 500 RPm and fluctuating in neutral (remember its a manual. In the week that followed, the car wouldn't start a few times which I found out to be a loose negative terminal on the battery. Since I fixed that problem, the car idles at about 1,000 RPM when I start it but then jumps up to about 2,000 once it's warmed up or if I downshift and then throw it in neutral! And yes, the same 2 codes show up on my scanner.
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The car run ok maybe a little worse economy and has a shudder very sporadically? What's my next step? new MAF?
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Had this thing rebuilt less than 8k by a reputable local trans builder and the reverse started to fail on me told the guy the problem and said everything is "normal". Drove it and the thing started to act up slamed out of OD and the light started to blink. Took it to the guy to get it checked and said most likely the tranny is toast the fluid does smell burnt.
Then he told me that I had two codes and that they were the cause of the tranny to fail, the codes were P1105, P1106 and that the voltage going to the solenoids was low roughly at 8.6 volts... Can the alternators have anything to do with tranny messing up? I took the to be tested and both alt are good I have a constant supply of 14.4 volts from the alternators. Can this be the pcm taking a dump?
Forgot to mention that this is a 2001 f250 platinum Edition 7.3 power stroke.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GL the reverse gear went out but all the forward gears work. Ive been told that I need a new transmission. I found a great deal on a transmission from a 2007 Hyundai Accent. Will this transmission work in my car?
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I am having a few issues with my 2001 accent. I bought this car for around 500 bucks after my friend hit 3 deer with it. At 101,000 miles the transmission went on it and he had it replace with a new one. At about 113k he hit his third deer and parked it. I bought it off him a few years later and its been running great. It died on me one time and it was the crank position sensor. Now I have about a 156k mile on it and it will not go into overdrive.
I have gotten mis fire codes, I know it needs new O2 sensors, and also P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio. The button on the shifter does nothing, If i press it on or off the light does not come on on my dash. I noticed it was not going into OD this last winter if i dropped it into low and shifted to drive it would no longer go into overdrive until i placed it in park and then drive again. Ive been searching everywhere for an answer I was reading one post that it could be the TPS sensor causing issues but i haven't had time to check the voltage.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent 1.6L GLS with auto transmission.
Recently, I've noticed a hard "tump" in the mornings when it auto shifts from first to second gear. It is loud and VERY noticeable. Aftera bout 7-10 minutes when the car warms completely up, it runs fine with not thump.
I've searched the forums for this and have found no answer.
It still runs fine but the morning "thump" scares the crap out of me and startles me every time.
I purchased the vehicle used a few months ago, it has 175,000 km on it. I don't know the history of the transmission but the car seems to be in really good shape otherwise...
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I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6. This car is mostly driven by my daughter so I'm translating the symptoms as she has described them to me. The issue appears to be this - when driving at highway speeds the car will sometimes downshift from OD to 3rd gear and stay there. When the problem first started, she would pull off the highway, turn off the car and then restart it - this would appear to "fix" things temporarily, however, as time went on, it would work up to (and including) 3rd gear and not go into OD after a restart.
I've reviewed the various threads on this site describing the 4th gear problem prevalent in the Accent, but in each case that was posted, there was a check-engine-light or at least some diagnostic codes stored that one could refer to - I've scanned this car every time she's been home and there are no DTC's. Should I assume that this is the standard "4th gear" issue and take the pan off for investigation or could this be some other issue such as the speed sensor causing the transmission to limit itself to a max of 3rd gear?
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I have a 2001 Accent with a auto-transmission. The engine is a 1.6 and the car has about 100,000 miles on it. I had it since about 5 years with about 48,000 miles.
While driving cross country a couple years the car developed a whining noise at about 25 mph. As speed is increased, the whining became louder. I have driven it like this ever since, moderately, never pushing it. Starting a couple months ago, the noise has become louder at 40 to 45 mph and there is considerable vibration.
I know the tranny in this car is known for many different problems. I'm just wonder what the thoughts are of others more familiar with this transmission as to what could be the issues ( a certain bearing going bad between gears?, maybe not a tranny issues ...just random ideas on my part ).
BTW, I have never had an error code develop for this transmission.
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Car is a 2001 Accent 1.6L 4 door automatic with about 130,000 miles on it.
Transmission shifts correctly into reverse, drive, neutral as well as manually shifting into 2nd and 1st. When in drive I will accelerate perfectly through 1st gear, shifts smoothly into 2nd gear then the problem arises. The car will shift ok into 3rd, but if I let off the gas to coast to a light or a corner, etc, the transmission physically downshifts or locks up in 3rd (like driving a stick, ie the car has drag like the converter is locked instead of freely coasting). It feels like 3rd gear but could be 2nd. When I go to accelerate again without coming to a stop the car has this same feeling of drag with no power and speeds up very slowly (almost like i am pulling something behind the car or am in a gear that is too high). If I give it enough gas to force a downshift it really slams that downshift. While the car accelerates through the rpm range after this downshift it will rev past the normal up-shift rpm until it finally slams into the higher gear. Or if i hold the gas steady at the higher rpm the car will suddenly slam into the higher gear. after all of this nonsense the car drives perfect through to OD. The problem is much worse going uphill and is consistent every time it is driven.
Also, sometimes the car would shake and vibrate when hitting the gas during this "drag feeling" until i let go and did it again. This is pretty random compared to the main problem but also seems to happen while the car is in 2nd or 3rd. This has been happening for about 5 months now and as far as i know was sudden. And on another note it suddenly was shifting fine the other day while driving it. I haven't driven it since then but this completely stumped me, as most problems will do when they magically disappear.
There is no check engine light, OD works fine and the car does not go into the safety mode where it will shift to 3rd gear on the highway. It's city driving that is the real headache (2nd and 3rd gear difficulties). Would the pulse generators cause this? bad TCM? i haven't scanned anything yet but will be within the next few days(at pep boys or similar) as well as ohming out pga and pgb. i have found resistance readings for pgb but nothing for pga, what should pga read? fluid is also within acceptable amount and color.
My initial thoughts were dirty or stuck solenoids/valves in the valve body and i was going to do a filter and fluid change with a quick valve body cleaning and check. But after researching on here I am starting to think it may be electrical. The only reason I put my scenario up is because it seems that everybody else who is having a similar problem is also having the "no reverse" or "shifting into 3rd on the highway" problems while i am not. On a random note, for my own piece of mind, how do the pulse generators work? Are they just reading ticks on a gear cog in the tranny or something? fluid flow?
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I have a 2001 hyundai accent GL the transmission has started shifting hard when it shifts into drive. It shifts fine and smooth from first to second but when it shifts into drive it hits drive hard and sometimes it acts like it doesn't want to shift and if you let up on the gas it will go ahead and shift, but when it shifts to overdrive it seems fine but hits hard when it down shifts back to drive. Also I have noticed a couple times when it goes to shift into drive the engine seems like it revs up some but when you let off the gas it goes ahead and shifts.
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I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic.
Yesterday it started acting up on the freeway. I was driving about 50 during traffic hour when it started revving. I got off the freeway and moved to 35mph on surface streets, the revving continued at lower speeds but much worse (4-5k rpms going 10-15mpg). Doesn't seem to do it in idle or park. If i shut the car off it'll drive fine for a while then start acting up but when I was driving, after awhile, it did return to normal.
What could cause the problem? TPS? Transmission? Sensor of some sort?
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Where I live people on the highway accelerate quickly. I try to stay in the EV range up to 15 mph but, when I do someone is up my rear end.
However, when I accelerate manually in EV mode I can accelerate up to 25 mph with the flow of traffic.
My concern with repeatedly accelerating up 25 mph in EV mode will be harder ( lessen the life ) on the battery or the transmission or the electric motors.
I'm guessing it's safe for the electric motors and the transmission because the plug in prius can accelerate up to 62 mph and it's fine.
However th
So is it 100% safe for the car to repeatedly accelerate out of EV mode?
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I got a 99 B.5 Passat..
a couple days ago.. I put water into the car cause the light came on. The next day the check engine light appeared. I drove the car and parked it for a few hours..
When I went back into the car the check engine light still appeared.. And not only that it went into SAFE MODE with all lights highlighted... PRND432..
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Alrighty now. I have a 93 f250 idi Na.
Before problems started: the truck.shifted all 4 gears fine.
Problem(s) begins: Then out of the blue(after I shut it off... even if it was for 30sec, and then turn it on ) it would go into limp mode but if I shut it off and then turn it on again, it would work fine. After about 3weeks/ 600 miles it just went straight to limp mode.
What I did: After 3-4 weeks of that, I replaced the solenoid pack(uncooked both batteries and waited 10 min before I hooked them up) with a eBay special. After that, I had 1st,....., limp 3rd, then it'd slam like check into OD. To get second(which was limp), I'd have to manually drop it in 2 and and let off the pedal before I'd put it in D, to avoid it slamming straight into OD. It would toy with limp and OD from 35mph-45mph. Then it.just went straight to limp mode again.
What I couldn't do because don't know how to solve: I went to go get the codes read and the connector was missing and only one wire was leading to where the connector should've been.
What I did...again: I replaced the control module in the firewall. Then my codes cleared up. And same problem as when I put the new solenoid pack in. But no codes.
What is it still doing????: it's a go round battle between complete limp mode, limp mode and wanting to go into gear(suited to proper mph&rpm), or 1st, limp2&3, and OD.
What I tried: TC lock-up switch.,. And it worked but didn't solve my problem so I scratched that one.
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I have a 2009 SX4 Crossover, which came with a Garmin nuvi 760 ... but which has been customized for Suzuki. I actually already own a "real" Garmin nuvi that we've been using in our other vehicles, so the Suzuki customizations are fairly obvious to me.
For the most part, they are welcome value-adds over a standard Garmin nuvi 760, with one very annoying exception ... and that is the mandatory "Safe Mode".
Suzuki has apparently decided for me that I must always have Safe Mode enabled, by removing the enable/disable option for this in the Suzuki version. A "real" nuvi 760 (and for that matter all other real Garmin nuvis with Safe Mode) has a Safe Mode enable/disable toggle button on the Security settings panel; and that has been removed from this panel in the Suzuki version.
While I understand the safety issues involved with a driver trying to use certain features while the car is moving, did Suzuki forget that they also install a passenger seat up front as well; and that maybe me or my wife, while in the passenger seat, might be trying to look up some location information for us while we are driving through an unfamiliar place looking for things? The only way to get out of Safe Mode is to pull the car over somewhere and stop ... very inconvenient, especially in congested city traffic. This has happened to us a number of times now, and is really getting old.
So I'm just wondering if any way to disable Safe Mode on the Suzuki version of the nuvi 760? Or, what I am actually hoping is that the option to turn toggle it on/off really is still there but just hidden, and that maybe there is a way to un-hide it ...
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I had to do some work on the car which required disconnecting the battery, Usually the radio goes into safe mode which I unlock using the 4 digit code. However this time i entered the wrong code and the radio went into 02 safe mode?? Now the radio is not responding at all to any inputs from the buttons, its literally locked. I have disconnected the battery again and left it for a bit hoping it would clear it but no luck it still says 02 safe and I can't enter the code to unlock it.
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